The switch is probably old and dirty. I’d replace it.

It's not that. 2 of them are brand new a few months back, and multiple switches in the sequence have the exact same issue. The outhole is good, but trough 3, 2 & 1 all have the same weird delay.

Check the shooter lane switch. Use a ball, not your finger

Look and see if those switches line up in a row or column on your switch matrix schematics. If so, you should have a couple more dedicated switches to that row/column. Then check and see if those other switches have the same delay problem.

It goes out hole, trough 1, 2, 3, shooter Lane, Left EOS, Right EOS.

But the 3 trough switches are the only one seeing this delay when I test them. The other four switches function as expected.

Whether a ball or my finger it works perfectly. It's just the three through switches that have the odd delay. I believe I'm occasionally getting the second ball fired out because of that delay.

If this is the switch column/row in line with each other:

It goes out hole, trough 1, 2, 3, shooter Lane, Left EOS, Right EOS.

Then your problem is a switch if you don’t have problems with the other 2 switches. Did you say you put a capacitor on a switch or was it a diode?

In my experience, when 2 balls kick out it’s usually a trough switch problem.

Has anyone had any experience with removing a factory mylar from Data East playfields? Thanks.

Yup. Questions?

What machine? What method did you use? Any complications? Loss of graphics, art, etc.?

Playboy.

Pretty sure I did the freeze method, worked well in this case. I have done both freeze and heat, you kind of have to go slow to figure out which works best for a particular playfield.

Rapid-tek rapid remover is awesome, removed the glue like butter and did not phase the paint at all.

I 100% I meant a diode. I will play around with the suggestions and see what I come up with. I'm just not sure how to address what seems to be a delay on these 3 switches compared to the other ones. I replaced the switches themselves so it's not that. Maybe it's meant to have that tiny delay compared to the other ones.

Did you check the other switches in this column/row to see if there’s a delay?

It goes out hole, trough 1, 2, 3, shooter Lane, Left EOS, Right EOS.

Never mind, appears you checked them.

That's what's so weird. No delay on the other switches in the sequence. Just the 3 trough switches, even after replacing them.

Take some pictures of your trough switches and ball eject

Didn't have a chance until today to get back to my machine, but here's a few pictures. Let me know if there's a specific angle or something that might be better. I'm not entirely sure what anyone is looking for!

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When testing your switches, are you removing the apron and testing them from the top of the play field? Make sure the trigger bar of the switch has enough rise above the play field and is not bent or getting stuck when it moves up and down. Also, the switch in the first picture looks old and suspect. I’d replace that switch and the diode. I would personally replace all switches from the beginning of trough to shooter lane. I believe you said a couple were already replaced, but your shooter lane looks old and gummy. If your shooter lane is not detecting a ball immediately it will kick out a second ball.

When I tested the shooter Lane seems to be the most responsive of the bunch, but I will give this a try this evening. Thank you.

Quick question about flipper fatigue on Data East pins. I have a TFTC, it is playing well.. however after a few heavy games, I find the flippers start to feel weak. Still playable, just noticeably less power, and on physical inspection, the coils are very hot to touch.

This is similar to my experience with modern Stern, however seems a bit worse here, and I understand the tech is similar, I just wanted to see if this is expected, or if there are some methods to mitigate this more (lower initial voltage, no there is something wrong with my setup, fans, etc.)?

Thank you

Check your EOS switches.
Be sure they are clean and making good contact.
A bad switch will puls the high voltage over and over again, making the coil HOT to the point of burning out.
When in doubt, replace them with new gold tip contacts, NO tungsten contacts!

If you have a flipper board, you will need gold contacts. Early Data East prior to Robocop had tungsten EOS switches.

Robocop was the first with flipper board.

What's everybody's best solution trick for preventing the ol Data East/Sega 'playfield falling off its hinges" flop and demolish the playfield/solid state flipper board? Will the EZ Slider Rails help that or am I just wishing it will?

Not even sure how this would happen? There is a stop on the rail when the PF is lifted all the way up?

Thank you. Yes, the contacts are nice. Still using spade connectors tho, I presume this was OE, but I was thinking of removing these for direct solder unless it is fine to leave the spades? Interesting about the pulse, but I guess this is one of the cons of the normally closed EOS.

I'm offline for another day, the coil looked like it may have been tampered with, perhaps some wraps taken off to give it a bit more juice.. machine I bought came with some spare parts, but I learned a lesson, despite the coil looking new, the diode had a direct short which seems to have blown out my flipper board . A rottendog, after replacing the fuse, the right flipper would seem to want to energize and stay on until the fuse would blow. Hoping it is related to the power mosfet f9530n. Sigh.. hopefully I'll get 2 steps forward when the part comes in. :/..

My "trick" is that I never really trust the arm that lifts up to support that playfield. That seems like the most likely piece/use to cause an issue. I use one of the service positions below.

(the metal arm isn't even show in the bulletin below. Maybe that's because they knew it was terrible!)
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I think my main issue is that I can only lift up the playfield with one hand most of the way (I'm short and have limited/no mobility in my left arm) and lifting it up by only one of the service brackets to get it into its upright position puts an unequal amount of weight on one side rather than the other, which makes one side come up off the rail, and the whole thing flip on itself diagonally.

The position I use the most is position 1 with the rubber strap. This position makes it hard to work on the top of the playfield but there is not much chance of it twisting in that position because half of the playfield is in the cabinet.

Is that position easier to use?

Hi,
can anyone tell me what is the size of the lane-change square insert on the upper playfield (Time Machine)?
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Hey guys! Quick question. I'm sure some of you know the answer immediately.

On my LAH, the left flipper finger stopped working. When I press the button I hear a hum, but that's it. When I lift the flipper manually however, it stays up. Right flipper finger works as it should. Fuses are fine.

What am I missing?

Oliver

Check your EOS and also look closely at your wiring for a broken or loose wire

I did that. EOS is fine, wires are fine.

Good noose.. replaced the F9530N mosfet and that fixed my flipper board, so was able to test a new coil, temps and responsiveness is good now... which is odd since the old coil was just slightly less resistance than the new, still seemed good.. but who knows... I was just annoyed to blow the flipper board because of a new coil with a blown diode that was causing a short.. :/

Hello, anyone have experience or opinions on the flipper rebuild kits from Marcos? This is for SW.

Thanks!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-6306-40

And how do those compare to the kit from PBL? Any preference for one over the other?

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DE0692-0493

Hello,

I did a small video to show the "Mr.Tantrum" solution for an easy Data East Apron Logo renewal. He is offering Vinyl decals and i can highly recommend it. It looks great afterwards.

Here is the Link to the Video:

Here is a link to the topic in the forum:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/finally-new-chrome-logo-solution-for-data-east-aprons

I used this in my LAH. Easy install and looks great. Half of the chrome was off the apron.

Great to see the chrome decal. I restored a LW3 and the chrome logo is one area that still needed updating but I didn't know how to do that. Also, such uplifting music!

Riddle me this: are data east BSMT200 sound boards interchangeable? I've got a baywatch with a bad sound board and since that board is so rare, wondering if I can replace it with a 520-5050 or even a 520-5002 style board.

Hello Data East pinball owners/fans:

Can anyone please confirm the size and name of this screw that I need a replacement for (one of them is lost or was used to bolt in apparently somewhere else in the speaker frame sometime in the past judging from the image in the bottom left corner). Also is this something available from Pinball Life or Marco? Looks to be a carriage bolt(screw?) and when I tried to match it a local Home Depot they didn't have the size. Any help would be appreciated. Missing from Torpedo Alley speaker frame. Thanks in advance!
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Looks like 1/4”X20 carriage bolt. 3/4 or 1”. I just bought carriage bolts from Lowes today so they have them. J

Jrotten They didn't have it at Lowes but they did have a screw measurement board and it is a 10-24 carriage bolt so I am ordering some from a place called Bolt Depot and will see if they fit the bill. Thanks for the quick response and that helped me greatly!

Hello again, Data East Pinball fans.
What flipper rubber bands should I get for the Data East Time Machine pinball machine? One of the red ones has snapped.
Thanks in advance!

Edit: Ah answered my own question. Manual says part number is 545-5024-02 so I can match from there. Cool beans.

Got the carriage bolt. Seems a bit long but worked out . Was #10-24 x 1 ". Yes, I replaced it on the left speaker from where I pulled a carriage bolt to move to the right side speaker .

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Just picked up a Batman and it needs a DMD… anyone upgrade to a color unit and want to sell your old one?

I have a couple Stern Simpsons dmds, don’t know if it’s the same one or not. They’ll fit into my Williams Dracula.

Guys,

I needed to get some speaker panel latches for my DE Star Wars. When I start to look for them there didn't seem to be any available locally.

I thought I would share my solution as the shape wasn't complicated so I tried making one on my 3D printer.

Well I happy to say that worked brilliantly.

I've put the STL files on Thingiverse for anyone to use. You will find it under Pinball Data East Speaker Panel Latch (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5363040).

Data East Fans,
My Torpedo Alley is working great and have one question. When I received it, it was set for German language and had 25 balls on it per game. I set it to English and the limit is 9 balls per game. Is there a setting I am missing or Novelty setting where I can get 25 balls per game again though in English settings?

Normal play setting of 5 balls works for me - just at 25 balls made for an interesting long game
Thanks in advance!

Hi all,

I noticed my Simpsons pin manual lists a different style/type of 5 bankndrop target assembly to what I have installed.

Does anyone know what games the one pictured is used on? Any advantage to the actual ones used in the simpsons? Not sure if the design was changed due to cost or functionality?

Cheers

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