Looking to buy 1 520-5080-00 Solid State Flipper Board if anybody has one available!

If I recall correctly there were never EOS switches in Data East machines with the flipper boards prior to JP. The electronics gave a "flip" power, then gave the hold power, the board did not know if a flipper was knocked back. They were added because of the raptor shot knocking down the flipper. If the EOS switch closes the flipper re-flips (if that is a word).

The only time I have a problem with the flippers is the left flipper when the ball comes shooting out of the egg - the force is enough to where the flipper does get pushed down if I have it up.

There is a coil power adjustment - it is +/- 12% that is supposed to be used to compensate for line voltage issues. I don't know if this adjustment includes the flipper coils, but you may want to take a look at where it is set. (Adjustment 33) Maybe yours is set low?

Check the Jurassic Park thread there was a service bulletin about the flippers and EOS

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/22#post-2732743

I have a DE JP and can confirm that this is NOT the way they should be. I have no issues with holding power, even due to a ball coming from the raptor kickback.

If you have other coils that are week in addition to the flippers, I’d start checking the power boards capacitors. Unless all your coils are dirty and need maintenance (flipper rebuild, mushroomed plungers and dirty/broken coil sleeves)

I was also wondering if that setting on DE/Sega games includes the flipper coils or it is just for all the other solenoids.
Tried the 3 different setting but could not feel any difference of power on the flipper coils

I'm not aware of the flipper coils having different settings as they are controlled by the flipper board directly, not the MPU.

looking for sound board help. So I picked up a LW3 recently and the pot was shot. changed it out and sound is now working. I am getting some voice glitches from time to time. sometimes voices are not calling out when they should and then sometimes it does. A few times I was getting the tone from sound test during game play. any guidance is appreciated. I am wondering if it's the processor, pal, or the bsmt2000?
Also, does anyone have their dmd games with a stereo pot installed? All three I have just have a ground, in and out installed. Wondering if it will make a difference. Manual shows it should have been set up with one but didn't have the wiring.

Start with replacing the ribbon cable.

I had some similar behavior. After checking all the ribbon cables I ended up replacing the sound ROM chips and it fixed my issue. I think I could have gotten away with replacing just the middle one but it was just as cheap and easy to replace them all when considering shipping. Pretty cheap and easy.

My BTTF had a non-volatile RAM chip installed when I bought it. However, once on a while when I power it up, it says there's a memory error and has me open the coin door. It then resets everything to factory defaults.

I reseated the NVRAM several times assuming there might have been some oxidization on one of the pins, but it still happened after that. I couldn't see any evidence of corrosion or damage on the battery holder or the PCB, but perhaps I didn't look hard enough.

Anybody had similar issues? I might just buy a new NVRAM and see if that solves it.

Hey all,

I am looking lockdown bar for a DE Wide body Guns N Roses machine.

I am unable to locate one. If you have a lead on one, please let me know..

Thanks

Looks like a RAMTRON FM16W08-SG on an ordinary TSSOP breakout board.
Nevermind the bent pin, that was my fault when taking it out.

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I'll pick one up, thanks!

OUCH.

Never clean the EOS with anything abrasive on DE pins with flipper boards. They are low amp gold plated contacts for the flipper board logic.

Now they have to be replaced as the coating is gone.

Early DE are ok to clean the contacts with abrasives which were high amp, I think Robocop was the first pin with a control board.

Point file or "soft file" as sandpaper can leave chunks behind holding the contacts apart.

Need some help with the data east sound board guru's. Working on a lw3 sound board and have never had to work on a sound board before. Here is what is going on. Have music and only a couple call outs. majority of the call outs are missing. here is what I've done so far. New ribbon cables, had to replace the pot due to it being blown, redid the connector from the pot to the board, verified roms are good, pulled ram and verified good, swapped out the 6809E with a known good one, pin 4 on bsmt2000 shows high on logic probe. in sound test it can be intermittent, sometimes you get the tones from left both and right, sometimes the voice test works but says something different than what the manual says it should say. Thinking need to check the pia's on the mpu but guidance is appreciated.

How did you verify the ROMs and RAM? I had a similar issue with similar troubleshooting and my solution was simply to replace all the ROMs with new ones. I probably could have got away with replacing only the one bad ROM but the issue was tricky to isolate so it was easy and cheap just to replace all three.

Anybody know anything about the lighting on GnRs, These are the lights I’m have in issues with, when I remove the bulb circled #55, no issues
When bulb is installed all lights hilighted are lit. There is a diode at the bulb socket at the left shooter lane #55 if that was bad could the be causing the issues? Or is it a board or wiring issue. I just did an led bulb upgrade to the machine, not sure if the issue was there before I did this because there were some bulbs out and this may have been one?
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Never mind

I’d replace the diode

buddy has a rom burner so we verified the checksums vs the files and they are the same. for the ram he has a ram tester as well. we had to test it as a 6116 but that is the cross ram.

I replaced the diode and still same issues?

did you check to see if you have a diode Inside your light socket. I had something similar happen to my Stern Simpsons

Make surethe right color wire is on the banded side of the diode?

That’s the diode that I replaced, the one at the light socket

Diode was replaced with the band facing the same direction it was removed, I also noticed that the extra ball button light is very dim when I remove the bulb from 55

Confirming everything works as it should if you remove the light from 55?

Since you have 2 string of lights that are acting up that intersect with the #55 socket, I would assume there’s something wrong with your socket. Can you take a picture of your light socket and diode. Also the led bulbs your using.
You can try putting incandescent bulbs in again and see if there’s any changes.

Yes everything works as it should when bulb is removed with the exception of the extra ball button light is very dim when bulb is removed, Same issues if I put a incandescent bulb back in. I can take a pic of it tomorrow when I get done work.

My best guess is you have a short in your socket. Install a new one or swap it with another and see if the problem moves with it.

Dont assume the diode is in correct, consult the schematic. I have run into this.

Agreed. Don't assume the the previous diode was installed correctly. Compare it to all the other lamp diodes, they should all be connected the same way. Make sure it is soldered to the CORRECT tabs and in the CORRECT orientation.

Look at the wires for the correct orientation.

Anyone interested in one of Davi's optical trough boards with wiring harness reach out...used to replace the trough microswitches with optical ones...purchased this for my Tommy, but sold it before I ever installed it...

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I would like to thank everyone for there advice and a special thanks to kba78 for all his help, all playfield lights working correctly ( socket not wired correctly). Coin door lights not working, but after some help it looks like I have a power supply issue on just the coin door lighting circuit.

SOLVED. used logic probe on pia on mpu and found a couple legs stuck on low. Pulled and put in the tester and tested bad. swapped with a new 6821 and have all sounds now.

Did a test pull of the new Batman ramp today. I still need a length and width of the small flap if anyone could help. I won't be able to offer these until I have that piece of info

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1.25" wide it looks, hard to get ruler in there sideways.

Length pictured.

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That is perfect Gary, thank you so much!!

I've been trying to troubleshoot why my Monday Night Football occasionally kicks out two balls, and the only thing I'm noticing in the switch test compared to the other switches is there seems to be just a tiny delay when I press those switches from when they register. Every other switch seems to be instantaneous. It's like a half a second or less but I'm sure this is what's causing the issue. Any idea what would cause that kind of delay? I'm a little at a loss.

I tried replacing all of the capacitors on those switches with new ones but that did not fix anything.

To elaborate with a little more detail: The first switch which is the out hole switch works fine. It's the trough 3 and then each switch after that that have the delay. Replacing the capacitors on those switches did not help. It's like a half second delay after you press it and then a half second delay before it stops pressing when you let it go.