Nope

I'd start off swapping roms or burning new set as next step.

It could be a lot but you may not need all those steps. If you have access to someone local with a similar machine it would certainly help to be able to test that board in another machine. While you can upgrade to a Pinsound you should be able to get your board repaired for a reasonable price if you run out of options.

WTB: Looking for a left slingshot plastic for a Time Machine.

Thanks,
Alan

No sound before and after recapping.

Advice on what/ where to buy?

Unfortunately no-one near me has a similar machine. Advice on board repair options/ services?

By the time I get a oscilloscope n such it will be past the point of just getting it repaired by someone else id guess?

Try a Pinsound!

I’ve had great results from Clive at Coin-op Cauldron. Been some time since I sent him anything but I was very happy with his work, price and turn around time.

Thanks!

I will update the thread with any progress/ successes as they happen.

Howdy, I’m looking for suggestions on Rocky & Bullwinkle. What can I put in the hole on Bullwinkle’s hand for the hat trick?

Also, the Rhino is going askew as pictured when it raises. The other pop ups work fine. I tried 3D printing a longer guide but it didn’t help.

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Chck te rocky and bullwinkle thread. Some good tips and tricks and others that have similar issues

OEM has a hex spacer and 6/32 machine screw.
I have seen replaced by a white round spacer with a plastic washer on the backside to keep the last popup from jumping past the arm plastic.

Thanks so much for referring the OEM parts. I ended up designing a 3D print that inserts like a standoff and seems to be working. If it's not durable enough I will use a hex spacer. Good news is that this also solved my issue with the Rhino not dropping. I guess the added weight of the hand plastic keeps it from jamming in the up position.

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I would add a sleeve roller to your design.
Very nice design.

Anyone have an extra black lockdown bar they would sell me? Need one for my MNF.
Thanks!

Hey everyone.
Just got a Maverick home last week after about 4 good hours of gameplay it locked up. Low 5v on the power board, recapped two suspects now no +12v for some reason. No boot on the mpu. Ok...

My question is: this power supply board needs some help...but..is the 5v to the DMD supposed to come from the CN6 connector?

Pics attached. I've already ordered a replacement from marco but is this board worth sending for repair?

Thank you!
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Hey Guys,

I posted this in the Data East Batman Forum but hope to reach more owners here.

I was finally able to go through all the loose parts from the machine I picked up last weekend (most are currently repacked and organized in boxes now). This is a project pin and I'm trying to make a list of parts that are missing or need replacing. Can anyone send me pics showing the underside of playfield? I can't find any helpful pics online showing the underside. As of now, I have the wires/solenoids/switches/bulb sockets layed out for inspection. I'll need to replace a few solenoids and coil sleeves. I taped all areas that have loose or unattached wires...and will figure out where they attach per manual/schematics. Some areas that I'm hoping to get more pics include the pop bumpers and other major assemblies. Still going through the manual and checking off all items for the major assemblies.

Also, I briefly checked the motor assembly and it doesn't seem to rotate by hand. Not sure if this is typical of a motor that isn't supplied with power (detached) but I'm thinking it needs to be replaced.

There's a clear plastic that has an intersecting piece broken off. I'm not able to identify the piece based on online playfield photos. Hoping there's a replacement for that piece (if it's important).

Thanks!

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Does anyone know if Roms with different rules are available for DE Simpsons? The game has lots of potential to be more difficult.

I find it's much easier to use the playfield bungee if you undo the crimped on end from the cabinet eyelet and crimp it onto the playfield eyelet instead.
This allows you to pull towards you instead of trying to stretch it away from you. Much more leverage this way.
Simply insert the free end of the hook into the fixed end's eyelet when not in use to prevent the metal hook from going anywhere it shouldn't.

Has anyone found a source for the correct replacement bungee cord? Mine has a loop pulled out. It was suggested at one point to try a short small chain in it's place. Still think that may be a better option since the rubber bungee could break or pull out an end like mine is. It is in the Rocky and Bullwinkle

Ok, I found a pic in this thread. It's the best example I have so far. Any additional pics showing profile view or closeups of the back of playfield underside would be sooooo helpful. I definitely count on you guys for a lot and I truly appreciate the support.

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I think the motor assembly has a white plastic bushing that goes to the round up/down
hub.

Thanks vec-tor. I might be missing that piece. To me, it looks like the cylindrical peg (or stud) from the motor is inserted into the elongated circle plastic mold of the up/down target assembly. After getting the motor to rotate by hand, I tried simulating the movement with the target and it seems to work that way. I'm guessing the bushing you mentioned is in-between the motor and up/down target assembly to keep the plastic target from damage. Anyway, I'll have to keep looking for that piece because I haven't seen it listed in the manual.

Big shoutout to Robotworkshop in helping me resolve my Tales From The Crypt sound board issues!

I sent them my sound board after months of frustration, and they found "Found that the RAM chip was bad along with one of the PLD's (U20)"

My baby is screaming again!

Hey All, does anyone have a working sound board (520-5050-00 rev. C) that they would be willing to sell? If you do PM. The game just isn’t has much fun without sound☹️

Thanks Phil

Hey Guys. I need some help with the display in my Data East Simpsons i just picked up. It shows nothing on power up and slowly flickers some words as it warms up but nothing legible. Like I can tell when the score is on the sreen but I cant read it.
I reconnected all the spots but no improvement. Do i need a new score display or something else?

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I would check the display volts first

they have power. what power should they have?

I have a question on a Data East Star Wars I just picked up. The sound works fine, except during game over it continually plays the Star Wars theme music. It never really stops, except possibly for a second or two when a DMD animation takes place. Then back to the constant repeating music. Anybody have any thoughts? Are the sounds triggered by a transistor, in which case maybe I have a transistor shorted on?

And could this be an issue. Or does it not matter if they aren't all connected?

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Those pins are not used....
If your displays are muddy, and you have all correct voltages to the display,
then the display has degassed.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Score_Display_Issues

Thank you!

Sum-Ting Wong!

Just a cheap board picked off flea-bay as a spare. Going to repair and fully populate and replace bridge and cap for good measure.

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After removing the damaged items and giving it a scrub. The burned spot will be sealed with clear nail polish.

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Ready to go back in service.

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Nice job..... nothing like buying broken stuff off of the site I dislike

For $20 shipped.

I much rather have the original hardware than some of the aftermarket stuff.

I did that with no effect. Solder pins look good. It turns out my Rottendog power supply shows 12 v at game start but once the game gets going, particularly during multiball, the 12v drops down to 6v and the sound goes wacky! A second power supply from my Star Wars works correctly and does not show the sound problem.

So new question: What would cause the 12v on the Rottendog to drop to 6v under load? The caps appear to test ok. The 7812 voltage regulator bad? Can I substitute an LM 317 in its place?

I had to replace 2 regulators on a brand new RD board.

Not sure where to post this question. I have a Data East TMNT. When I got it the top right pop bumper didn't pop although it did score. The game played without any other issues. After some investigation I noticed a burnt out resistor on the CPU board. (See red arrow) I replace the resistor and the two adjacent transistors. (See purple arrows.) I turned the machine on and the coil on the pop bumper got extremely hot and started to smoke. I shut down and ordered a new replacement coil which I have just received. Before I burn out another coil, is there anything else I should check?

I also have a second question regarding this game. Before I started messing with the pop bumper, I had some issues with the score display sometimes freezing, showing the code originally displayed at start up or otherwise not consistently showing the score. It would display the various animations, and would show the score when it added the bonus, but otherwise it was very inconsistent on displaying the score. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

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I have intermittent issue with my color dmd and tftc. DMD goes back to red, than color, red etc....

Which cable should be the issue?

could it be the special plug/connector on top left ? i had an hard time installing it

Replace the transistors again.
The old coil will have destroid the new transistor.
Replace the coil and make sure there is a diode on the coil.
Put the wires at the correct connections.
Most of the time the double wire goes at the banded side of the diode.

Thanks. I'll give that a shot. I ordered some new transistors and hopefully can get back at this in a week. I also noted that when I did a continuity check between the ground and the top of the topmost TIP122 resistor there was continuity. I did this with the machine unplugged and the cable connector to the right of the resistors unplugged. With the cable connected, all TIP122 resistors showed continuity except for the bottom one.