Looking for another set of eyes for my Tommy. Owned the machine 2 years, added a color DMD over a year ago with no issues. Game has not moved ...
Now when the game has been on for over 45 minutes the DMD will start flaking out with garage on the DMD. I’ve reseated all connections from the DMD to the boards; it got a little better, but not 100%. The boards are clean with no corrosion; I’m thinking ribbon cable, but open to input from others much smarter than me

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nou8y6x8kz0425s/TommyDMDJacked.MOV?dl=0

There is a DE flipper assy. on Ebay. But I don't know if it is the right of left side.

ebay.com link: Data East Flipper Assembly Complete 500 5179 01 Okay Condition
hash=item48ca4129ea:g:T~gAAOSwEXxc7CYz

Thank you ... I’ve reset everything again and so far we are good. I know as soon as I push it back in the line up, I’ll be haunted again! Lol

I have an uninstalled opto trough board for DE 6ball games and a wire harness. I’m looking to get $100 plus shipping, which is what I paid.
PM if interested.

7D95AF9A-F9C2-4E4E-8752-19F14507B126 (resized).jpeg

Anyone know where to get a new lockdown bar for a Simpsons?

I think this is what you are looking for.

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-black-front-molding-lockdown-bar-no-tournament-button-hole.html

It does not work with Simpsons. A few of the DE games have a different part number.

I am assuming Simpsons is a standard size DE pin.

If you are not a purist, you could install a new Stern dual latch bar along with the receiver.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-dual-latch-lockdown-bar.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-cabinet-bracket-playfield-support.html

This is what my Munsters uses and the lockdown bar will fit my DE Robocop.
-----------------------------

Now, I have a challenge question shortly.

I have a DE Robocop. DE was made by Gary Stern. Some of the old Stern Electronics parts made the crossover into the DE pins.

I have several classic Sterns in my collection. The Stern bars and my Robocop bar interchange with no hassle. Even the receivers are the same.

This was discussed several months ago and a DE wide body pin and a classic Stern wide body pin are not the same width. So, for wide body classic Sterns and the DE wide body there is no interchange.

I was not aware that DE made another type bar other than standard width and a wide body width.. What does Simpsons have for a lock bar ? ; And what pins have lock bars that interchange with Simpons?

Gary Stern was cheap. I cannot imagine him have two styles of lockdown bars for a standard body pin.

The description on Pinball Life explains it. I don’t have the machine yet, so I can’t check.

The only wide body made is the DE WWF Royal Rumble.

A few DE games use lockdown bar #500-5021-10. Games calling for that lockdown bar are not compatible with this lockdown bar.

That’s the one I need.

#guns-n-roses

Hah! Learn something new every day.

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-black-front-molding-lockdown-bar-no-tournament-button-hole.html

According to this link, Batman Forever is a wide body pin. I played a Bf one time. I don't recall stepping up to a wide body, but the DE wide body is not as wide as the classic Stern wide body, so I guess ti is a wide body.

Yeah. Learn something new everyday. I guess the one you need is also used on Jurassic Park, too. I don't know why they are different, like is there some engineering reason a different bar had to be used. Without that knowledge and me being completely ignorant about what is inside the cabinet, I am thinking a different bar with a matched receiver would work. All it is is cabinet with a play field. And wood is easy to work with.

Anyone know where I can find one of these latches? I’ve looked in the usual places and can’t find one

2F1A1183-8892-44EC-9157-B2F90CF353F5 (resized).jpeg

I know Marco usually has them. Did you try the Arcade Boneyard. Always worth a look. http://thearcadeboneyard.com/

Does anyone have the decal set for the Capitol building on Secret Service? Or where I can go to find them?
Thanks in advance.

thumbnail_20201004_164626 (resized).jpg

Thanks. Marco says out stock. I’ve never heard of the boneyard. I’ll check it out.

I have 2 sets of clear hexagon lamp covers if anyone needs them. They are used in JP and possibly other Data East games.

$20 NOS set, $15 Used set
Prices are shipped in the CONUS

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27059D2B-28C3-4FA0-A30B-789621356B17 (resized).jpeg

Reach out to bigfoot53, he reproduced whole sets for everything. I got some from him a year & 1/2 ago.

I got a #MNF from a local picker for $1950 yesterday. They said working in the ad, I had to take the display off to get it down my stairs and I think I may have either messed something up or plugged something back in wrong.

There's 2 major issues:

1. The coil that is supposed to kick the ball out after the 'kick-off' does not fire at all, so unless you launch the start over top of the holes and into the playfield that way, you have to lift the glass to free the ball from there. I did not see anything visually wrong with the coil assembly or anything and tried to trace the wires but it was really tough, didn't see anything and I stopped because it may be related to my second point.

2. The game is registering an extra ball for essentially everything that is hit at the top of the playfield -- something is wrong that is making this unplayable within the rules. The game seems to boot up correctly, but it's not behaving correctly once the ball is in the playfield.

This is my first SS game so I really have no idea what I am looking for. I took a few videos of the issues and added them to YouTube, if anyone has time to review them and help me troubleshoot:

On the CPU board (for Time Machine anyway) there are 2 4 pin connectors near the bottom of the Left hand side which can be put back on the wrong pins. Don't ask me how I know.

I am familiar with those 2 4-pin connectors! Those were the only two I could find that could have been in the wrong spot, so I swapped them and tried that last night. When I swapped them, the machine when crazy scrolling through menus and stuff, so don't think that is the issue, unfortunately.

I did print off the service manual from ipdb but I'm no engineer, so not sure it's going to do me much good. Gonna go home after work and open it back up and see if I can figure anything out.

Any chance that the ball kick-out coil that isn't working for the 'kick-off' is related to the 'extra ball' scoring errors? They seem like they wouldn't be related to me, but I know literally nothing.

Kick out coil could be a transistor or the relay on the PPB . Have you read pinwiki on Data East.

Do you know how to use the test buttons in the door ?

I have not read and I do not know how to use the buttons! Going to take my laptop home and I have a printed copy of the service manual. I will certainly read the pinwiki as well, thanks for that resource.

I should have done more research on my own before asking for help, I was just hoping someone would tell me it was something as simple as those two 4-pin connectors that maybe I had missed I'll try and accomplish something on my own tonight and I'll come back tomorrow to the thread with more detailed questions and hopefully some photos and such.

Thanks again for helping me out.

Alright a few hours into my #MNF and I managed to get a factory reset done in the menus and now everything is working except the coil isn't shooting the ball out after kick-offs that go into the holes, the kickoff is registering correctly per the audio. I did the coil test and it is firing in the test mode, so something is just not triggering when it backs up the lane to get shot out.

With the factory reset, game appears to now score and function as it should, and one of the quarter accepters works still. I believe the playfield has some mylar protectors on it, I just saw that term for the first time today, but there's sheets cut out on th playfield so pretty sure that's what that is.

Tomorrow I'm going to upload 20 pics or so I took and I'll have some additional questions about a few wires that are cut and some other items. I'll include one pic just for fun on this update post.

20201008_193857 (resized).jpg

Hi all...

If you are not aware, I have been releasing code updates to some of your favorite Data East/Sega games. So far, I have updated Baywatch, Hook, Jurassic Park, Lethal Weapon 3, Star Trek, Star Wars, Tales From The Crypt, and Tommy.

You can find out all the details here:
https://www.pinballcode.com/

I am writing today because I recently finished up Star Trek and Lethal Weapon 3 and now I currently have no update project (BOO!)... and I would love to do more (YAY!!!). The problem is that I need to get my hands on a game for about 6 months (give or take) to be able to do a code update. Several of the updates I have done were made possible because someone lent me their game.

Do you have a Data East/Sega game that you would like to see updated? If so, can you lend me your game? Contact me if you have one of these games and are able to lend it to me. I am in Carpentersville, IL (northwest suburbs of Chicago). Your game would be safe and sound in my finished basement alongside my other pinball machines.

Here is the current list of games I'd like to do a code update on...

Data East:
Batman
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends
WWF Royal Rumble
Guns N' Roses

Sega:
Maverick
Mary Shelley's Frankenstein
Batman Forever

PM me if you are interested.

If I were closer I'd bring you my Secret Service. (hint, hint)

OK, I'm mystified. Can a transistor be half working?

My Time Machine had the outhole and ball trough kicker not going (and the klacker) Because I had moved it after being stored for a while and it was 2 coils in sequence had to remove the head to get it through a door I chased wiring problems but that was a red herring.

Then I tested by grounding the transistors on the CPU board and the coils worked. I replaced Q46 and the driver transistor. The Klacker and outhole now work.

I didn't replace Q45 (R02) because the Chime 1 (L02) works in test and the less soldering I do on the CPU board the better.

But the trough kicker is still not going and Chime 1 is. I know the L/R relay is working fine. What would cause the Chime to be able to work but the coil not to?

Is it possible that the transistor works with the lower load of the chime coil but fails with the load of the trough kicker coil ?

PS, thanks to whoever updated the manual on IPDB with good colour scans of the schematics - I had the copy I had downloaded 15 years ago which was close to illegible,especially on the A4 printer I had then. A3 and good scans is fantastic

That would be me good sir. I picked up a Time Machine with original manual and ran it through the ridiculously expensive copier at work which will also do scan to pdf format.

Now if you could just update the PPB schematic so the pin numbers on the schematic match the numbers silk screened on the board (just kidding). I was scratching my head until I realised they start the sequencing at the opposite end of the connector (on my very orginal board anyway).

I've got a lot (if not all) schematics on my website.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Data_East.htm
Scroll down to the bottom of the page and you will find them in the green section.
Please len me know if something needs to be corrected.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Hi Peter,
You have a great resource which I have used and appreciated. On the PPB diagram, the component layout diagram matches what I have silk screened on the board. But if you look at the circuit diagram below it shows Pin J2-9 going to Diode D1 and out to J1-1. In fact it is pin J1-1 going to diode D1.

The backbox wiring diagram also shows J2 using pins 6,7,8,9 when it is pins 1,2,3,4 used. So it seems everything is consistent within the original circuit diagrams, but there was a problem with the numbering of the PPB. The PPB has pin 1 on the LHS of the connector, whereas all the other boards pin 1 is on the right. But then the PPB is mounted upside down in the backbox so maybe tghat is how it happened ?

Wish I was closer! Would love to see R&B get new ChadCode

Note: power supply 520-5047-00 1st generation dmd... 128 by 16.
---- Amendment add .1 ufd 500 v cap. to R14.
---- it is mounted on top of the resistor, with extra wires extensions to the capacitor
---- to make connections to the open legs of both ends of the resistor.

Do you mean like this?

Data_East_Power_Supply_520-5047-00_rev-C_part_schematic (resized).jpg

I have a Gun 'N Roses in my repair room.
I'll check the PPB this weekend.

Which wiring diagram do you mean?
I do not have a backbox wiring diagram on my website.

Yes. When the first DMD games came out... they had the 0.1 cap. attached
---- to the resistor R14.

Wiring diagram on Page 31 of manual.

PPB diagram from your website is consistent with the one in the manual. But look at the circuit diagram at he bototm of the page, and it shows J2-9 connected to D1 (whereas on the board it is J2-1 connected to D1 and out to J1-1)

All DE Batman owners- I'm looking to get a Batman main ramp reproduced but I need other people interested to get one of the ramp makers to make a mold and start manufacturing them. Please shoot me a PM if you're interested.

question regarding backbox bolts -- did the DE machines original ship with these? reading the manuals for both my games, it just mentions the Allen wrench backbox latch and not proper bolts.

Do you guys tend to prefer adding backbox bolts? 2 per backbox?

Would something like the Williams Bally 2'' wing bolt work ok - or rather a 3/8's carriage bolt with nut and washer be preferable?

The Data East locks are Roto locks and are commonly used to attach staging pieces together. That should be enough to hold a backbox . I don't use anything else.

Data East first generation of pinballs had backbox bolts.
When the company redesigned the lock mechanism the bolts where omitted.
The change came to satisfy operators who did not have the time to open the backbox
up after setting up the game in a location. Many operators would just "snap" the
old back latch and walk away... this lead to many backboxs getting damaged and
destroyed from the latch coming apart and having the backbox come crashing down
on to the main cabinet to the game.

I think you are looking at the layout (and schematics) the wroung way.
The numbers at the pins on the layout are NOT the pin numbers.
Those are the solenoid line numbers.
The pins are numbered right to left.
Number 3 being the key pin.
Next to the row of dots (representing the pins) you can see one dot just a little bit higher.
THAT is where the number 1 pin is located.
When you look at all the other connectors you can see this.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Ok. That makes sense. I didn't know that. Thanks for the info.

Has anyone ever found an option to the standard volume control that comes with the Data East games (usually a long knob inside the coin box area)? This is what I have on my Tommy and GnR. Find it to be terrible for volume control and usually not working properly. Thanks for the help!