(Topic ID: 109642)
Linked Games
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends, The
Data East, 1993-
Back to the Future: The Pinball
Data East, 1990
-
Batman
Data East, 1991
-
Checkpoint
Data East, 1991
-
Guns N' Roses
Data East, 1994
-
Hook
Data East, 1992
-
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
-
Laser War
Data East, 1987
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Quoted from pacman11:On the back of the display, the chip is missing. Is this it?
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ya thats the one. youll have to order the display chip for your tmnt machine then it should work fine
Quoted from Clizifer:ya thats the one. youll have to order the display chip for your tmnt machine then it should work fine
Thanks I just ordered one..
South Berwick, ME
Hey DE gang. I’ve got a lot of GI out on my Rocky and Bullwinkle (PSU 520-5047-01). Taking voltages off of the PSU CN8, pins 1-4 send off 6.9v, and the pins 6-9 are at 13v which seems high. The schematic doesnt list voltages off of CN8, so can anybody verify what those should be?
The board is freshly recapped, but is also missing -110 and -90 (parts on the way to fix that).
Quoted from etnfrd67:Hello I have a Rocky and Bullwinkle that keeps blowing the slow blow 8 amp fuse. Only a few gi and back box lights go on and non dmd. What could be going on? I tested the bridge rectifier I had all .5 except one that .48 could it be a bad rectifier?
No. The spec range is from .4 to .6v so that is good. Can you post a picture of all the boards in the backbox?
Can you disconnect the DMD power connector and try again?
What work did you do before it started blowing out? Or did you get it like this?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:No. The spec range is from .4 to .6v so that is good. Can you post a picture of all the boards in the backbox?
Can you disconnect the DMD power connector and try again?
What work did you do before it started blowing out? Or did you get it like this?
I got it that way had the blown fuse in it replaced it an blew right away again. It's at the shop so I can grab some pics when I go there again.
Quoted from etnfrd67:I got it that way had the blown fuse in it replaced it an blew right away again. It's at the shop so I can grab some pics when I go there again.
To be sure, you tested the Bridge Rectifier on the right with the white/red striped wire? That shows to go to 25v solenoids. Forget about unplugging the DMD power connector. This 25v seems to only go to the saw motor and to the relay board that drives that motor. Q30 on the CPU tells the relay when to turn on. With power off, can you ohm from the tab of Q30 to the board ground (mounting screw would be find). Compare that resistance to another next to it. If Q30 is much lower resistance than another next to it, then replace Q30.
Another test you could do is to unplug CN12. If the 8amp fuse does not blow, that will be another indication that Q30 is shorted. If it does blow, you have an issue with the saw motor or the motor relay board.
Top diagram was taken from foldout page 45 of the manual. Bottom diagram was taken from page 29. https://www.ipdb.org/files/23/Data_East_1993_Adventures_of_Rocky_and_Bullwinkle_and_Friends_Full_Manual.pdf
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Quoted from pacman11:So I just got this display chip from K’s arcade in the mail but it’s short by a few prongs. Is that correct? Never seen a chip smaller then the socket.
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Something is wrong.
Quoted from gdonovan:Something is wrong.
Yeah that's what I am thinking, strange.. Update... Called K-arcade and they said the chip needs to be set to spots back from the front and it will work. Did that now and it works!
C8ED6750-2A06-44D2-89B7-3DB7CE6F577A (resized).jpeg
Quoted from PinballManiac40:To be sure, you tested the Bridge Rectifier on the right with the white/red striped wire? That shows to go to 25v solenoids. Forget about unplugging the DMD power connector. This 25v seems to only go to the saw motor and to the relay board that drives that motor. Q30 on the CPU tells the relay when to turn on. With power off, can you ohm from the tab of Q30 to the board ground (mounting screw would be find). Compare that resistance to another next to it. If Q30 is much lower resistance than another next to it, then replace Q30.
Another test you could do is to unplug CN12. If the 8amp fuse does not blow, that will be another indication that Q30 is shorted. If it does blow, you have an issue with the saw motor or the motor relay board.
Top diagram was taken from foldout page 45 of the manual. Bottom diagram was taken from page 29. https://www.ipdb.org/files/23/Data_East_1993_Adventures_of_Rocky_and_Bullwinkle_and_Friends_Full_Manual.pdf
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Now I'm stumped today the fuse is not blowing but still not working. Removed the cn12 connection no change. Rechecked the bridge rectifier .48 on all 4 posts. Unplugged dmd no change, unplugged saw motor no change. Took pics of the boards and the game to show what is working.
20200616_164354 (resized).jpg20200616_164346 (resized).jpg20200616_170816 (resized).jpg20200616_170839 (resized).jpgQuoted from etnfrd67:Rechecked the bridge rectifier .48 on all 4 posts.
Are you testing the left or right bridge rectifier?
The left one should be going to the insert lamps and I think 12v to the DMD.
No broken wires on either bridge rectifier?
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Are you testing the left or right bridge rectifier?
The left one should be going to the insert lamps and I think 12v to the DMD.
No broken wires on either bridge rectifier?
The right side that has the white and red wires going to it. No broken wires solid connection.
Quoted from etnfrd67:The right side that has the white and red wires going to it. No broken wires solid connection.
Just making sure. Currently trying to correlate the insert with the left bridge rectifier causing the DMD and insert lamps issues. I have seen fuses fail before when turned on but ohm out ok when the game is off.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Just making sure. Currently trying to correlate the insert with the left bridge rectifier causing the DMD and insert lamps issues. I have seen fuses fail before when turned on but ohm out ok when the game is off.
It looks like the 25v feeds that fuse so you’ll want to check everything that runs at 34v that the bridge supplies.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:It looks like the 25v feeds that fuse so you’ll want to check everything that runs at 34v that the bridge supplies.
That is a short summary of what I said in post #1958 and only feeds the saw motor.
Problem is I only ever seen a blown fuse for the left side to take out the DMD and the insert lamps.
Basically, suggests there are 2 issues here.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:That is a short summary of what I said in post #1958 and only feeds the saw motor.
Problem is I only ever seen a blown fuse for the left side to take out the DMD and the insert lamps.
Basically, suggests there are 2 issues here.
That’s the way these go. Always a bunch of issues to fix. Took a look at the pictures and one of the connectors on the power board is a different color. Was it replaced? Always triple check prior work.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:That’s the way these go. Always a bunch of issues to fix. Took a look at the pictures and one of the connectors on the power board is a different color. Was it replaced? Always triple check prior work.
Nothing unusual to have CN8 replaced. It will be rare for any DE game not to had it replaced by now.
Quoted from pacman11:Yeah that's what I am thinking, strange.. Update... Called K-arcade and they said the chip needs to be set to spots back from the front and it will work. Did that now and it works!
[quoted image]
Would be proactive of them to put a piece of paper with the display ROM or post about it on their website before you order so the person is aware. It is almost like they hope you install it wrong, damage it and buy another.
Quoted from etnfrd67:The right side that has the white and red wires going to it. No broken wires solid connection.
Did you do this yet since you have CN12 disconnected? Trying to help determine the original cause of the BR2 fuse blowing out.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:With power off, can you ohm from the tab of Q30 to the board ground (mounting screw would be find). Compare that resistance to another next to it. If Q30 is much lower resistance than another next to it, then replace Q30.
Also, can you replace the BR1 fuse? I not seen anything in 10 years other than this fuse cause a problem to the DMD along with the insert lamps.
I've got an issue that I'm hoping someone here has run into before. I have a WWFRR that has been converted to comet LEDs, which is exhibiting some weird behavior. The lower GI string ( in the slings and outlane area) as well as the inserts when lit up, are flickering or out of phase with the rest of the lighting in the machine. The other 4 GI strings, including the backback, do not have the issue.
This is very noticeable when the ball is around the slings while playing. When I take a slow motion video with my phone, I can see that the top of the playfield and backbox are not flickering, but the bottom GI string is heavily flickering.
My boards all have been rebuilt with new caps. My connectors are in great shape as well. Im guessing it might have something to do with the PPB board. Any ideas / suggestions?
Does anyone have the JEDEC images for the two PAL chips (U19 and U20) On the Data East sound board? I think they are supposed to be 16L8 types. I am repairing one of these boards and it is looking like one of them may be bad. If I can get the images for them I can make replacements to try.
Hey everyone. Any interest in a backlit frame for DE translites? I reached out to Brad at Lit Frames about seeing if he can make them. He would need an order of 12 to come out even. I was planning to light/frame one of my Tommy translites. Anyone else here have interest in something like this for our DE family? You can see his work here:
One of my JP flippers is missing the rubber stop. At some point, someone used some electrical tape instead. How critical is it to replace with the proper rubber?
One pic shows the tape and the other shows the rubber.
Thanks!
98549ABD-80AB-475F-906F-678B76F9C9D7 (resized).jpegE4DB8F21-29FC-4067-BCC2-8E1EC85FCBBA (resized).jpegQuoted from scootss:One of my JP flippers is missing the rubber stop. At some point, someone used some electrical tape instead. How critical is it to replace with the proper rubber?
One pic shows the tape and the other shows the rubber.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
It gets the stop angle correct, Marco has them cheap. I keep 10 on hand.
Quoted from gdonovan:It gets the stop angle correct, Marco has them cheap. I keep 10 on hand.
Thanks. Now just need to find some other stuff to order so I'm not paying $7 shipping on $.50 rubber 
Quoted from scootss:Thanks. Now just need to find some other stuff to order so I'm not paying $7 shipping on $.50 rubber
No matter what you add to the order, it won’t include the thing you will need 3 weeks from now.
Quoted from ChadH:No matter what you add to the order, it won’t include the thing you will need 3 weeks from now.
Truer words have never been spoken.
Quoted from okgrak:Truer words have never been spoken.
Phew...so it's not just me then!!
Quoted from ChadH:No matter what you add to the order, it won’t include the thing you will need 3 weeks from now.
3 weeks? How about 3 days? My last order from Marco has not even arrived yet and I need something else.
I just throw it in the cart and wait till I need something else.
I posted this in the DE SW group, but am repeating here for possible additional input point of view.
On my DE Star Wars, just recently in attract mode, my machine will suddenly say “May the force be with you.” Sometimes it will repeat it immediately. I’ve owned this machine 20+ years and it has never done that before. Played a game recently and during the game got a random”May the force be with you,” and all of the game music sounds stopped (other game sounds still played). After the ball drains, the music comes on again. Any ideas what might be going on?
Quoted from pudealee:I posted this in the DE SW group, but am repeating here for possible additional input point of view.
On my DE Star Wars, just recently in attract mode, my machine will suddenly say “May the force be with you.” Sometimes it will repeat it immediately. I’ve owned this machine 20+ years and it has never done that before. Played a game recently and during the game got a random”May the force be with you,” and all of the game music sounds stopped (other game sounds still played). After the ball drains, the music comes on again. Any ideas what might be going on?
Measure your 5v, 12v and -12v on the power supply. If you have an original DE power supply, it will be time for new capacitors.
Quoted from pudealee:I posted this in the DE SW group, but am repeating here for possible additional input point of view.
On my DE Star Wars, just recently in attract mode, my machine will suddenly say “May the force be with you.” Sometimes it will repeat it immediately. I’ve owned this machine 20+ years and it has never done that before. Played a game recently and during the game got a random”May the force be with you,” and all of the game music sounds stopped (other game sounds still played). After the ball drains, the music comes on again. Any ideas what might be going on?
Your sound board is rebooting. This is a power issue. Start with re-seating all cables related to the sound board (while the power is off).
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Measure your 5v, 12v and -12v on the power supply. If you have an original DE power supply, it will be time for new capacitors.
This happened with my MNF, caps are going bad. Sounds would reset after every ball
I have a rom compatibility question for you guys.
My Batman has been having an occational issue with the sound card rebooting in the middle of a game. I suspect it may be the ribbon cable, but I wanted to run another possibility past the group.
My display roms are V1.02, and the game roms are V1.03. The sound roms are not marked so I don't know what version they are. The game roms are not the originals (they don't even have covers over the windows). If the sound roms are also V1.02, and the game roms are V1.03, will this cause issues?
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:caps are going bad. Sounds would reset after every ball
Caps on the sound board or power board?
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I have a rom compatibility question for you guys.
My Batman has been having an occational issue with the sound card rebooting in the middle of a game. I suspect it may be the ribbon cable, but I wanted to run another possibility past the group.
My display roms are V1.02, and the game roms are V1.03. The sound roms are not marked so I don't know what version they are. The game roms are not the originals (they don't even have covers over the windows). If the sound roms are also V1.02, and the game roms are V1.03, will this cause issues?
Sound roms rarely if ever change and usually don't have a version just a date.
Quoted from gdonovan:Sound roms rarely if ever change and usually don't have a version just a date.
That’s what I suspected.
Piershil
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I have a rom compatibility question for you guys.
My Batman has been having an occational issue with the sound card rebooting in the middle of a game. I suspect it may be the ribbon cable, but I wanted to run another possibility past the group.
My display roms are V1.02, and the game roms are V1.03. The sound roms are not marked so I don't know what version they are. The game roms are not the originals (they don't even have covers over the windows). If the sound roms are also V1.02, and the game roms are V1.03, will this cause issues?
It should not be a problem.
There is an unofficial version 1.06 available too.
This one also uses display version 1.02 (as does version 1.03).
Sound roms are the same for all versions.
Check the connector pins on your power supply.
Replace the small capacitors on the power supply if they are still original.
Check the fuse clips.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:My Batman has been having an occational issue with the sound card rebooting in the middle of a game. I suspect it may be the ribbon cable, but I wanted to run another possibility past the group
Try reseating both ends of the sound board ribbon cable. If that does not help,
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Measure your 5v, 12v and -12v on the power supply. If you have an original DE power supply, it will be time for new capacitors.
I think solved my problem. One of the caps on the sound board puked all over the power connection. I replaced the cap (along with a few others on the board), and it seems to be working fine now.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I think solved my problem. One of the caps on the sound board puked all over the power connection. I replaced the cap (along with a few others on the board), and it seems to be working fine now.
That is also the same type of problem the smaller caps will cause on the power supply. It is well documented in Pinwiki for several different faults. You'll want to replace them soon.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:That is also the same type of problem the smaller caps will cause on the power supply. It is well documented in Pinwiki for several different faults. You'll want to replace them soon.
Is there a DE parts list anywhere that lists which caps, SCRs, and resistors part numbers to use?
Thanks
Quoted from cottonm4:Is there a DE parts list anywhere that lists which caps, SCRs, and resistors part numbers to use?
Thanks
Dont know of any SCRs on the board. I dont ever replace any resistors or diodes on the power supply unless the high voltage fails. Capacitors are what needs to be changed currently. Someone does sell a DE power supply cap kit, but I can't recall off hand. I normally get the individual capacitors from Great Plains electronics. The capacitors are listed in the manual on the schematic. I always refer to it when ordering capacitors.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:The capacitors are listed in the manual on the schematic. I always refer to it when ordering capacitors.
Thanks. I'm still learning to read schematics. I see the values now. I need to work up an order with Ed.
Quoted from cottonm4:Thanks. I'm still learning to read schematics. I see the values now. I need to work up an order with Ed.
Most of the capacitor values can be seen pretty easily on the sides of the parts, once the board is out of the game.
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