(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club


By PinballManiac40

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,984 posts
  • 384 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 180 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 434 votes
    58%
  • I have one or more. 216 votes
    29%
  • Considering buying one or more. 66 votes
    9%
  • No, never 34 votes
    5%

(Multiple choice - 750 votes by 723 Pinsiders)

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There are 1984 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 40.
#1901 46 days ago

Thanks.
I have, it plays a game or 2, or half game, then either scrambles or goes off. Cant seem to make it do it in command.

#1902 46 days ago

See if you can swap the ends of both ribbon cables to see if it improves at all.

The 5volt 2 pin connector at the DMD controller board is another potential problem.

#1903 45 days ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

Looking for a set of stand up targets for my Time Machine if anyone has some laying around..
[quoted image]

Red triangle is tough to find. Yellow and blue are standard and most vendors have them.

#1904 45 days ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Red triangle is tough to find.

Yup! I believe it is only used on Data East Time Machine.

#1905 45 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

See if you can swap the ends of both ribbon cables to see if it improves at all.
The 5volt 2 pin connector at the DMD controller board is another potential problem.

Thx ,will try

#1906 45 days ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Red triangle is tough to find. Yellow and blue are standard and most vendors have them.

Yea, that's what I've been finding...

#1907 44 days ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

Yea, that's what I've been finding...

Can you take one of these from Pinball Resource and make it into a triangle of the right size?

Screen Shot 2020-05-20 at 10.23.25 AM (resized).png

#1908 44 days ago

or you can carefully drill out the rivet on the old target remove the triangle, repeat drill & remove blue square or other from a new target & with proper rivets & press make your own....... ask me how I know

#1909 44 days ago

I bought one of these and used a dremel to make it a triangle.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-1-red-square-target-switch.html

Quoted from MrExtrm:

Yea, that's what I've been finding...

#1910 44 days ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

or you can carefully drill out the rivet on the old target remove the triangle, repeat drill & remove blue square or other from a new target & with proper rivets & press make your own....... ask me how I know

Drilling out the rivets is easy to do. Hammering down a new rivet is just as easy.

#1911 44 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Drilling out the rivets is easy to do. Hammering down a new rivet is just as easy.

I do not have the original target. Someone swapped the middle target back with some replacements (all round) before I got the machine. I was thinking that I'd have to modify a square target, so that's probably what I'll e d up doing... Thanks!

#1912 43 days ago

Anyone by chance have this tamp for a DE Hook? Ir is the skill shot ramp that comes off the shooter lane. I am in desperate need of one. Please let me know. Thanks you

703CD831-AB22-4A81-A87A-D2E985E7F8CD (resized).jpeg
#1913 43 days ago
Quoted from apic7917:Anyone by chance have this tamp for a DE Hook? Ir is the skill shot ramp that comes off the shooter lane. I am in desperate need of one. Please let me know. Thanks you
[quoted image]

Make inquire to Freeplay40... I believe he has made them.

#1914 43 days ago

Anybody know the size and spec for these Post Studs that are common under plastics? Had a few break while rebuilding and I’m thinking it wouldnt be a bad thing to have a couple dozen on hand.

There are two sizes used in Rocky and Bullwinkle, a short one and a tall one.

049E04E2-2BE2-41A8-8A55-A5130C308BCF (resized).jpeg

#1915 43 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Anybody know the size and spec for these Post Studs that are common under plastics? Had a few break while rebuilding and I’m thinking it wouldnt be a bad thing to have a couple dozen on hand.
There are two sizes used in Rocky and Bullwinkle, a short one and a tall one.
[quoted image]

you have options

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4002-3

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-9899

If you want real long posts, get this and cut off the excess threads on top.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4425-1

Pay attention to the prices.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=post%20stud&VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=0&sortOrder=SortKeywordRelevancy

#1916 41 days ago

Long shot but, does anyone have a death star and a r2d2 head they wanna sell?

#1917 41 days ago

Guys,

Anyone here install a Boston Pinball LED dmd as a replacement for their Plasma dmd? The 128x16 dmd for my TMNT works perfectly but I am interested in having a newer (green) display, and I also like having a backup dmd. The led display instructions are very straightforward, and I'm getting good feedback from Boston Pinball customer service. My questions for you guys involve the correct placement of the display, and use/type of plastic standoffs. I always felt my display was slightly lower than it should be. Also, I noticed two hacks performed, one being a jumper wire, and the second being glued plastic standoffs (3 out of 4 glued). The standoffs do not have screws on the opposite side of lightboard. I'm assuming they need to be yanked from the board because they only rotate in place (they do not unscrew). They project 3/4" from face of board.

My questions:

1. Can you guys take a look at the pics and tell me if the display position looks correct with respect to up-down position? I still feel it's a tad lower, and I would hate installing my new DMD using incorrect mounting points. Position could also be affected by possible sagging at the lightboard where it locks in at slide bracket.

2. Can you tell (from the pics) if these plastic standoffs can be pulled from the lightboard? I'm planning to use the 3/4" long plastic spacers (provided by Boston Pinball) with bolts and nuts.

I appreciate the support!

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#1918 41 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Guys,
Anyone here install a Boston Pinball LED dmd as a replacement for their Plasma dmd? The 128x16 dmd for my TMNT works perfectly but I am interested in having a newer (green) display, and I also like having a backup dmd. The led display instructions are very straightforward, and I'm getting good feedback from Boston Pinball customer service. My questions for you guys involve the correct placement of the display, and use/type of plastic standoffs. I always felt my display was slightly lower than it should be. Also, I noticed two hacks performed, one being a jumper wire, and the second being glued plastic standoffs (3 out of 4 glued). The standoffs do not have screws on the opposite side of lightboard. I'm assuming they need to be yanked from the board because they only rotate in place (they do not unscrew). They project 3/4" from face of board.
My questions:
1. Can you guys take a look at the pics and tell me if the display position looks correct with respect to up-down position? I still feel it's a tad lower, and I would hate installing my new DMD using incorrect mounting points. Position could also be affected by possible sagging at the lightboard where it locks in at slide bracket.
2. Can you tell (from the pics) if these plastic standoffs can be pulled from the lightboard? I'm planning to use the 3/4" long plastic spacers (provided by Boston Pinball) with bolts and nuts.
I appreciate the support!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

1) Adjust/reset your backboard.
2) Measure the window ( back glass ) to frame of back box.
--- remove back glass and use the measurements to adjust the DMD brackets/standoffs...
Note: On the POTO game I drilled slots into the PCB that housed the display glass...
----- I used two screws and two spacers and was able to "fit" the display to the back glass.

#1919 41 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

1) Adjust/reset your backboard.
2) Measure the window ( back glass ) to frame of back box.
--- remove back glass and use the measurements to adjust the DMD brackets/standoffs...
Note: On the POTO game I drilled slots into the PCB that housed the display glass...
----- I used two screws and two spacers and was able to "fit" the display to the back glass.

Thanks, vec-tor! I'll do all that and more.

#1920 39 days ago

Hey All! Having issues with the display on Batman. It will be fine for a few games and then just goes blank. I’ve unplugged and reattached connectors, but same issue happens...will be fine for a while and then goes blank. Any suggestions where to start?

#1921 39 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Hey All! Having issues with the display on Batman. It will be fine for a few games and then just goes blank. I’ve unplugged and reattached connectors, but same issue happens...will be fine for a while and then goes blank. Any suggestions where to start?

Heat related, maybe? Could there be a loose solder joint somewhere?

#1922 39 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Hey All! Having issues with the display on Batman. It will be fine for a few games and then just goes blank. I’ve unplugged and reattached connectors, but same issue happens...will be fine for a while and then goes blank. Any suggestions where to start?

Just try wiggling the ribbon cable on both ends next time to see it helps at all. May even try to clean the ribbon cable connections at the board with some alcohol and a new toothbrush is what I like to use to scrub the pins.

Do you have an original Data East power supply installed? Might be time to replace the smaller capacitors on the board.

#1923 39 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Hey All! Having issues with the display on Batman. It will be fine for a few games and then just goes blank. I’ve unplugged and reattached connectors, but same issue happens...will be fine for a while and then goes blank. Any suggestions where to start?

Start by checking the voltages.
Before and after the display goes blank.
Solder the print headers at the power supply, all of them.
Also check the fuse clips.
Data East fuse clips are very poor quality.

#1924 39 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Just try wiggling the ribbon cable on both ends next time to see it helps at all. May even try to clean the ribbon cable connections at the board with some alcohol and a new toothbrush is what I like to use to scrub the pins.
Do you have an original Data East power supply installed? Might be time to replace the smaller capacitors on the board.

No change when wiggling, so I’ll try cleaning them up with alcohol.
It has a relatively new power supply board...I think I replaced it 5-6 months ago.
The issue seems to be related to gameplay and heat buildup. I can leave it in attract mode for hours but then if people start to play it heavily then it will stop working after 20-30 minutes of play.

#1925 39 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Heat related, maybe? Could there be a loose solder joint somewhere?

Definitely seems to be heat- related, as it will do just fine in attract mode for hours.

#1926 39 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Definitely seems to be heat- related, as it will do just fine in attract mode for hours.

Do the connectors look ok on the power supply?

#1927 39 days ago

Does anybody have the color wiring for the volume pot? My machine is ungodly loud, and I think I might have slipped up and wired the pot wrong.

#1928 39 days ago

Hi Guys,

I have searched the forum but not found any info yet. Wondering if anyone has chromed Data East side rails and lockdown bar or if there are chromed parts that are interchangeable between DE and other brands?

I have an old LW3 that im looking to refurb although potentially the effort and cost isnt really reflective given the price point for this machine.

Thanks

Steve

#1929 38 days ago
Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:

Hi Guys,
I have searched the forum but not found any info yet. Wondering if anyone has chromed Data East side rails and lockdown bar or if there are chromed parts that are interchangeable between DE and other brands?
I have an old LW3 that im looking to refurb although potentially the effort and cost isnt really reflective given the price point for this machine.
Thanks
Steve

I just spent time looking for a Data East lock down bar and don't think anyone makes the stainless/chrome ones at all. The black ones are made and available though. I do have several older Stern machines and the lock down bar from classic Stern games like Meteor fit the Data East games as well. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure no one makes the classic Stern lock down bars either, so you have to source out a used one, unless you want to go black.

#1930 38 days ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

I just spent time looking for a Data East lock down bar and don't think anyone makes the stainless/chrome ones at all. The black ones are made and available though. I do have several older Stern machines and the lock down bar from classic Stern games like Meteor fit the Data East games as well. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure no one makes the classic Stern lock down bars either, so you have to source out a used one, unless you want to go black.

So, who's selling the black bars? I'd be interested in one. Thx

#1931 38 days ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

I just spent time looking for a Data East lock down bar and don't think anyone makes the stainless/chrome ones at all. The black ones are made and available though. I do have several older Stern machines and the lock down bar from classic Stern games like Meteor fit the Data East games as well. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure no one makes the classic Stern lock down bars either, so you have to source out a used one, unless you want to go black.

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

So, who's selling the black bars? I'd be interested in one. Thx

Pinball Life used to have some DE lockdown bars. This has been discussed before on a couple of forums and looks like PL has sold out.

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=lockdown%20bar

DE standard body lock bars and the classic Stern lockdown bars and receivers will interchange.

Now, it look like your best option would be to convert over to Stern's newer dual latch lockdown system. I like the dual latch system. But the bars would be in black only, I think. So you would have to send it out to the chrome shop.

Or you might have to use this setup which I think would work. But you would have to confirm with PL.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-lockdown-bar-lever-guide-receiver-assembly-wpcwpc-95.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-standard-size-stainless-steel-lockdown-bar-with-epoxied-under-carriage-circa-1974-1988.html

Good Luck. Lockdown bars are getting to be a challenge.

#1932 38 days ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

I just spent time looking for a Data East lock down bar and don't think anyone makes the stainless/chrome ones at all. The black ones are made and available though. I do have several older Stern machines and the lock down bar from classic Stern games like Meteor fit the Data East games as well. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure no one makes the classic Stern lock down bars either, so you have to source out a used one, unless you want to go black.

I gave up looking for a stock stainless lockdown bar for my time machine. I'm converting it to a williams wpc style lockdown bar.

#1933 37 days ago

For sale in market is a tftc alt translight. New ,unused. Please make offer. Thx

#1934 33 days ago

Anyone with a Rocky & Bullwinkle tell me the height of the machine without the topper?

Thanks

#1935 31 days ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Do the connectors look ok on the power supply?

All the connectors look fine. Have played a few games at various times throughout the last few days and the issue has not replicated. Will do some testing when the issue rears it’s head again!

#1936 31 days ago

Target Bar on the Flugleheim Museum has stopped registering hits. I’m not at home right now so I’ll post pics tonight but when I removed the door motor bracket I found a broken wire...so I thought “that explains it”! I stripped some length off of the two ends, twisted and soldered them together and wrapped in electrical tape. Still no worky...no hits register. So I thought, okay maybe the contacts on the leaf switches need cleaned (there are two). Did the business card cleaning trick, reattached everything, still nothing. So then I tried to give the leaf switches just a little bend...nada.
As I thought more about that broken wire, I realized that the break was right at one of the zip ties which appeared to be original factory ones. So now I’m thinking that maybe that wire wasn’t broken...maybe it was meant to be cut like that? But the logic in me says that there are only two wires coming from those leafs...it has to complete the circuit somehow!
Separate question but related...what part of those leaf switches are making contact and supposed to stay closed (I assumed it was the part that faces the playfield) and how do you get the door out of there...do you have to remove all of the screws? It looked like the door would just slide out of the track from the playfield side, but there must be something on the backside of that plastic piece that is resisting removal from the topside.

#1937 31 days ago

Picked up a project TMNT and I need a 128x16 display for it. If you have one laying around that works PM. Thanks!

#1938 31 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Picked up a project TMNT and I need a 128x16 display for it. If you have one laying around that works PM. Thanks!

Post the high voltage readings from -112v, -100v, and 68v. If any are low, that also can result in what appears to be a failed DMD.

#1939 31 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Post the high voltage readings from -112v, -100v, and 68v. If any are low, that also can result in what appears to be a failed DMD.

I am missing the whole display.. I ordered a new power supply too.

#1940 30 days ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Target Bar on the Flugleheim Museum has stopped registering hits. I’m not at home right now so I’ll post pics tonight but when I removed the door motor bracket I found a broken wire...so I thought “that explains it”! I stripped some length off of the two ends, twisted and soldered them together and wrapped in electrical tape. Still no worky...no hits register. So I thought, okay maybe the contacts on the leaf switches need cleaned (there are two). Did the business card cleaning trick, reattached everything, still nothing. So then I tried to give the leaf switches just a little bend...nada.
As I thought more about that broken wire, I realized that the break was right at one of the zip ties which appeared to be original factory ones. So now I’m thinking that maybe that wire wasn’t broken...maybe it was meant to be cut like that? But the logic in me says that there are only two wires coming from those leafs...it has to complete the circuit somehow!
Separate question but related...what part of those leaf switches are making contact and supposed to stay closed (I assumed it was the part that faces the playfield) and how do you get the door out of there...do you have to remove all of the screws? It looked like the door would just slide out of the track from the playfield side, but there must be something on the backside of that plastic piece that is resisting removal from the topside.

This is where the wire appeared to be broken/cut so I soldered it together.

D0059997-3E7A-4A27-9321-38F27B5D9D56 (resized).jpeg
#1941 30 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I am missing the whole display.. I ordered a new power supply too.

Long term that seems best. Capacitors on the original power supply definitely in need of replacement.

#1942 29 days ago

Hello, new DE owner - Tommy. Love it except...

I think I'm hitting the Skill Shot but the display reads "Skill Shot Missed" and gives me only 1 Mil. points rather than higher (20Mil I think). Weird thing is, when the ball drops in regular play I'm getting points so the ball is getting read. Somehow, I'm not getting Skill Shot. Any ideas?

Not a timing issue - I place a ball immediately in the hole. Still, "Skill Shot Missed". Some setup issue maybe? I don't see a Skill Shot adjustment.

#1943 29 days ago
Quoted from swfour:

Hello, new DE owner - Tommy. Love it except...
I think I'm hitting the Skill Shot but the display reads "Skill Shot Missed" and gives me only 1 Mil. points rather than higher (20Mil I think). Weird thing is, when the ball drops in regular play I'm getting points so the ball is getting read. Somehow, I'm not getting Skill Shot. Any ideas?
Not a timing issue - I place a ball immediately in the hole. Still, "Skill Shot Missed". Some setup issue maybe? I don't see a Skill Shot adjustment.

If you are hitting it into the parachute drop hole, then the switch must not be working where the ball drops under the playfield.

#1944 28 days ago

Still looking for a display for my TMNT pinball, if you have an older one laying around because you replaced it with an LED one I'll buy your older display. Thanks!

#1945 28 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Still looking for a display for my TMNT pinball, if you have an older one laying around because you replaced it with an LED one I'll buy your older display. Thanks!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-data-east-128x16-dmd

#1947 25 days ago
Quoted from swfour:

Hello, new DE owner - Tommy. Love it except...
I think I'm hitting the Skill Shot but the display reads "Skill Shot Missed" and gives me only 1 Mil. points rather than higher (20Mil I think). Weird thing is, when the ball drops in regular play I'm getting points so the ball is getting read. Somehow, I'm not getting Skill Shot. Any ideas?
Not a timing issue - I place a ball immediately in the hole. Still, "Skill Shot Missed". Some setup issue maybe? I don't see a Skill Shot adjustment.

Look under the PF, the switch for the skillshot may have a loose wire. I had to reflow mine (you will see a random wire in that area) and it was working again.

#1948 23 days ago

Alright so I just got a used display and the guy said it worked. When I put it into my TMNT game nothing. I checked voltages and they were all good. Display is completely dead. What else should I be checking?

02D12B19-1567-49CC-B184-2D3AED39D702 (resized).jpeg
#1949 23 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright so I just got a used display and the guy said it worked. When I put it into my TMNT game nothing. I checked voltages and they were all good. Display is completely dead. What else should I be checking?
[quoted image]

you will need to put the display chip in for your tmnt game. if you didnt have a display to begin with you probably dont have the display chip. you can order them online tho

#1950 23 days ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

you will need to put the display chip in for your tmnt game. if you didnt have a display to begin with you probably dont have the display chip. you can order them online tho

Okay I believe it came out of a TMNT game though.. Where is this chip at? I'll check for it.. Thanks!

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