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(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club


By PinballManiac40

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,154 posts
  • 400 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by truemagoo102
  • Topic is favorited by 181 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 452 votes
    58%
  • I have one or more. 222 votes
    28%
  • Considering buying one or more. 70 votes
    9%
  • No, never 35 votes
    4%

(Multiple choice - 779 votes by 751 Pinsiders)

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There are 2154 posts in this topic. You are on page 38 of 44.
#1851 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
Data East TMNT:
I'm in the process of ordering replacement parts for a new plastic ramp. I was able to find rivets through Marco. As for the ramp plates (part nos. 4, 5, 7) and microswitches (part no. 2), I'm struggling. At the very least, I would love to have replacement microswitches [500-5335-00]. Do you guys know of any alternative switch part numbers that can be used in place of the original ramp microswitch 500-5335-00?
I appreciate your support!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm basically in the same boat as you; I have a new ramp on its way from Richie. I was looking at the same parts as you and it appears I'll need to transfer the plates w/ new rivets (an old-time hardware store locally has had a good supply of rivets so hoping they'll have what I need). Can't seem to find those plates anywhere but my original ones aren't bad. My switch seems to be working fine; are you trying to replace yours proactively or is it acting up? Would p/n 180-5053-00 from the pinballwizard work as an alternative to 500-5335-00? Looks like it may be close enough.

#1852 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Here is your Lamp matrix.
[quoted image]
Here they are on the CPU.
[quoted image]
Figure out which Lamp Drive or Lamp Return has the weak lights and find the corresponding Q numbers on the CPU drawing in the drive rows or drive columns.
Hopefully you have the manual because I cannot get the pics large enough for you to really see the Q numbers.

i have the manual thats how i was able to determine it was drive and return lines 7. when i find the corresponding Q number what is next? should i replace that transistor?

#1853 5 months ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Are the replacement speakers 4 Ohm? when you say they sound horrible, as in tinny or can't get much volume? What is the wattage ranking on the replacements? My guess is the sound board may not be able to drive quality sound to the newer speakers. The originals are around 10 watt at most if I recall. My Tommy subwoofer was only a 10 watt 8inch paper cone. So quality sound and power aren't in the older machines. If you can find a low watt 4x10 4 Ohm speaker that would probably be your safest bet. Lower end is probably better, hope this helps.

1) Yes 4 ohm
2) Both, I had to crank up the power so much all you could hear was the center speaker.
3) Yes originals are 10 watts

I'm looking at this one right now;

amazon.com link »

Sensitivity: 91 dB frequency response: 38-23,000 Hz recommended power range: 2-35 watts RMS

Power looks like it is in the sweet spot, not going to find much in that range.

#1854 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

i have the manual thats how i was able to determine it was drive and return lines 7. when i find the corresponding Q number what is next? should i replace that transistor?

You will have 2 transistors to replace. Big one and little one. I would suggest replacing those.

NOTE: I am not the premier board repair person. I did have to send my MPU to Rob Anthony to get my problem fixed.

#1855 5 months ago
Quoted from rlbohon3:

I'm basically in the same boat as you; I have a new ramp on its way from Richie. I was looking at the same parts as you and it appears I'll need to transfer the plates w/ new rivets (an old-time hardware store locally has had a good supply of rivets so hoping they'll have what I need). Can't seem to find those plates anywhere but my original ones aren't bad. My switch seems to be working fine; are you trying to replace yours proactively or is it acting up? Would p/n 180-5053-00 from the pinballwizard work as an alternative to 500-5335-00? Looks like it may be close enough.

Yep, we're both getting a new ramp from Richie. Yeah, I'm being proactive with the switches...because it did kinda act up when the wires were under slight tension. After I relaxed the tension, the issue seemed to dissapear. I haven't gone in and looked super close to the switch contacts but I've already had to replace the flipper microswitches (which makes sense given the higher use). I'm more concerned with not having certain parts just in case.

As for the rivets, I can't figure out how to cheaply install those tubular aluminum rivets. I have a rivet gun, but I don't think it's the correct rivet type (pull-through rod). I'm concerned the rivet gun I have will damage the plastic, but I could use a washer to distribute the force. I'm not in a rush to get rivets.

Thanks for the info on that switch. I emailed Pinball Wizard for support. I'll keep you posted if you're interested in that specific switch.

20200511_202703 (resized).jpg

#1856 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Yep, we're both getting a new ramp from Richie. Yeah, I'm being proactive with the switches...because it did kinda act up when the wires were under slight tension. After I relaxed the tension, the issue seemed to dissapear. I haven't gone in and looked super close to the switch contacts but I've already had to replace the flipper microswitches (which makes sense given the higher use). I'm more concerned with not having certain parts just in case.
As for the rivets, I can't figure out how to cheaply install those tubular aluminum rivets. I have a rivet gun, but I don't think it's the correct rivet type (pull-through rod). I'm concerned the rivet gun I have will damage the plastic, but I could use a washer to distribute the force. I'm not in a rush to get rivets.

That switch from pinball wizard does look close to a match. I've already emailes PW for support. I'll keep you posted of you're interested.

Thanks for the info.

[quoted image]

#1857 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Yep, we're both getting a new ramp from Richie. Yeah, I'm being proactive with the switches...because it did kinda act up when the wires were under slight tension. After I relaxed the tension, the issue seemed to dissapear. I haven't gone in and looked super close to the switch contacts but I've already had to replace the flipper microswitches (which makes sense given the higher use). I'm more concerned with not having certain parts just in case.
As for the rivets, I can't figure out how to cheaply install those tubular aluminum rivets. I have a rivet gun, but I don't think it's the correct rivet type (pull-through rod). I'm concerned the rivet gun I have will damage the plastic, but I could use a washer to distribute the force. I'm not in a rush to get rivets.
[quoted image]

I don't know what kind of ramp you are talking about and without knowing I can't say very much. But my 1st thought is that you do not want to use aluminum pull/pop rivets. If you have a lot of movement, aluminum rivets will not have the holding power and will come loose after a period of time.

This is a Stern pop bumper cap. The orange lens is attached using steel tube rivets and a washer for backing. There is a squeeze tool for these rivets but if you have a friend with a 3rd hand and a vise with an anvil, the friend can hold the rivet head tight to the one side and you can take a punch and tap/punch the rivet tube around the washer and it should lock you in fairly good.

IMG_3585 (resized).JPG

IMG_3586 (resized).JPG

#1858 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't know what kind of ramp you are talking about and without knowing I can't say very much. But my 1st thought is that you do not want to use aluminum pull/pop rivets. If you have a lot of movement, aluminum rivets will not have the holding power and will come loose after a period of time.
This is a Stern pop bumper cap. The orange lens is attached using steel tube rivets and a washer for backing. There is a squeeze tool for these rivets but if you have a friend with a 3rd hand and a vise with an anvil, the friend can hold the rivet head tight to the one side and you can take a punch and tap/punch the rivet tube around the washer and it should lock you in fairly good.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Excellent info as always, cottonm4! I have some research to do. I was using the part numbers from the ramp materials list to get an exact match. Maybe the rivets were steel instead of aluminum. The rivets are for the ramp entrances, and at the plastic ramp/habitrail fit-up.

20200511_204943 (resized).jpg20200511_204948 (resized).jpg

#1859 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Yep, we're both getting a new ramp from Richie. Yeah, I'm being proactive with the switches...because it did kinda act up when the wires were under slight tension. After I relaxed the tension, the issue seemed to dissapear. I haven't gone in and looked super close to the switch contacts but I've already had to replace the flipper microswitches (which makes sense given the higher use). I'm more concerned with not having certain parts just in case.
As for the rivets, I can't figure out how to cheaply install those tubular aluminum rivets. I have a rivet gun, but I don't think it's the correct rivet type (pull-through rod). I'm concerned the rivet gun I have will damage the plastic, but I could use a washer to distribute the force. I'm not in a rush to get rivets.
Thanks for the info on that switch. I emailed Pinball Wizard for support. I'll keep you posted if you're interested in that specific switch.
[quoted image]

get your rivet tools and rivets here....http://pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

#1860 5 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

get your rivet tools and rivets here....http://pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

Oh, those are high-dollar tools. Very nice! Thanks for the info!

#1861 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Excellent info as always, cottonm4! I have some research to do. I was using the part numbers from the ramp materials list to get an exact match. Maybe the rivets were steel instead of aluminum. The rivets are for the ramp entrances, and at the plastic ramp/habitrail fit-up.
[quoted image][quoted image]

For that kind of use, you would probably be OK with using the aluminum pull rivets you have. Nothing is going to be moving around. but you would want to buttress the rivet with a washer as you mentioned. The worse that could happen is a rivet works loose and you need to replace it. Then the decision point would be: how hard is it to remove the ramp for servicing. Steel would be better but what you have will probably be OK.

EDIT: Actually, you could probably use a couple of #4 round top machine screws, a washer, and nut. Use a little bit of the removable thread locker, and then grind off the bottom of the screw so it is not too long. The factory used rivets because they are fast to install and a little more permanent.

#1862 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Oh, those are high-dollar tools. Very nice! Thanks for the info!

yeah you don't need the press...I do mine in my vise...just buy the two dies and the rivet kit. Its nice as it has numerous sizes and washers too.

#1863 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

1) Yes 4 ohm
2) Both, I had to crank up the power so much all you could hear was the center speaker.
3) Yes originals are 10 watts
I'm looking at this one right now;
amazon.com link »
Sensitivity: 91 dB frequency response: 38-23,000 Hz recommended power range: 2-35 watts RMS
Power looks like it is in the sweet spot, not going to find much in that range.

That makes sense, probably not enough power from the sound card to drive decent quality to the bigger speakers. Those Boss speakers should do the trick.

#1864 5 months ago
Quoted from JDub03:

That makes sense, probably not enough power from the sound card to drive decent quality to the bigger speakers. Those Boss speakers should do the trick.

The Pioneer speakers I linked too on Amazon look better for the application, based on specs

#1865 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

The Pioneer speakers I linked too on Amazon look better for the application, based on specs

Yep, sorry I meant the Pioneer. One thing to note, the tweeter may stick out a bit. So you may need to add a small spacer when mounting.

#1866 5 months ago

Jurassic Park...Having trouble with flippers firing and blowing fuses at the start of a game and in diagnostics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-flippers-fire-amp-blow-fuses#post-5643986

Any ideas?

#1867 5 months ago

Longtime lurker, now membership-ized, lover of DE machines. Here is a pic of Catwoman playing my beloved Batman.

IMG_4090 (resized).JPG
#1868 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

You will have 2 transistors to replace. Big one and little one. I would suggest replacing those.
NOTE: I am not the premier board repair person. I did have to send my MPU to Rob Anthony to get my problem fixed.

ok so those transistors are probably creating my power issue? i will have a look and see if i can replace them. thanks

#1869 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

ok so those transistors are probably creating my power issue? i will have a look and see if i can replace them. thanks

All I can say is that if you have an entire bank of lights acting up, the transistors might be the culprit. But please keep in mind that I am not a board troubleshooting expert.

#1870 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

All I can say is that if you have an entire bank of lights acting up, the transistors might be the culprit. But please keep in mind that I am not a board troubleshooting expert.

np, thanks for your input. ill give it a try and see if i can get them working again

#1871 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

np, thanks for your input. ill give it a try and see if i can get them working again

I replaced a lot of transistors on mine but somehow I missed whatever was needed to fix my pop bumpers. I finally sent it out to a pro. His pinside name is borygard. His street name is Rob Anthony. If you get to the point that you cannot figure it out, you might consider shipping your board to him.

He did me a good job.

#1872 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I replaced a lot of transistors on mine but somehow I missed whatever was needed to fix my pop bumpers. I finally sent it out to a pro. His pinside name is borygard. His street name is Rob Anthony. If you get to the point that you cannot figure it out, you might consider shipping your board to him.
He did me a good job.

right on, sounds like a plan. i was just having a look at it and im wondering which side needs the repair. the lamp driver or the lamp return?? i would assume the drive? but i guess it could also be the return lol

#1873 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

right on, sounds like a plan. i was just having a look at it and im wondering which side needs the repair. the lamp driver or the lamp return?? i would assume the drive? but i guess it could also be the return lol

Figure out which string of lights are out. Lamp drives are the columns (orange). Lamp returns are the rows (pink)

DE lamps (resized).jpeg

DE lamps 1 (resized).jpeg

#1874 5 months ago

Finally done..... brutal wait to get the decals. Lot of time went into bringing the chrome back to life. New CPR plastics look great! Working 100% now...ugh.

20200514_105405 (resized).jpg20200514_105411 (resized).jpg20200514_105419 (resized).jpg

20200513_191300 (resized).jpg

#1875 5 months ago

I am in need of some help on my Data East Batman. I had a bulb locked on under an insert when I bought this game and pretty much melted the insert. I since have replaced the insert but I could use a scan of the insert art work. It is the insert of Jack Napier on the right of the playfield. I have attached a photo of the artwork I need. Or if anyone happens to have a worn parts playfield that the insert is good, that would work too. Please any help work be appreciated.

batman (resized).jpg
#1876 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Figure out which string of lights are out. Lamp drives are the columns (orange). Lamp returns are the rows (pink)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

the line thats highlighted pink is the string that isnt working. so you saying that is the return and i should swap out the return side transistors?

#1877 5 months ago
Quoted from apic7917:

I am in need of some help on my Data East Batman. I had a bulb locked on under an insert when I bought this game and pretty much melted the insert. I since have replaced the insert but I could use a scan of the insert art work. It is the insert of Jack Napier on the right of the playfield. I have attached a photo of the artwork I need. Or if anyone happens to have a worn parts playfield that the insert is good, that would work too. Please any help work be appreciated.
[quoted image]

Boy, you should have gotten in contact with TNT amusements.
They might, still have the playfield... I do not know.

#1878 5 months ago
Quoted from apic7917:

I am in need of some help on my Data East Batman. I had a bulb locked on under an insert when I bought this game and pretty much melted the insert. I since have replaced the insert but I could use a scan of the insert art work. It is the insert of Jack Napier on the right of the playfield. I have attached a photo of the artwork I need. Or if anyone happens to have a worn parts playfield that the insert is good, that would work too. Please any help work be appreciated.
[quoted image]

Not sure if it helps but here’s a good picture I took of mine

44E8C564-138D-416F-BF64-EFE32A7CD2C8 (resized).jpeg
#1879 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

the line thats highlighted pink is the string that isnt working. so you saying that is the return and i should swap out the return side transistors?

Return 7 tells you that Q78 is the area you want to concentrate on. It could be a transistor, or it could even be a resistor.

You can google how to test a transistor and how to test resistor. But something in the group of parts for Return 7 is where I think your problem lies. But as I said, I am not the premier board repair man. So you do this at your own risk.

You have a couple of style of transistors. Unfortunately, while DE copied a lot from Williams, DE did not think it was necessary to add a list of part numbers. You will need a magnifying glass to get in there and look at the part numbers.

The one thing I can tell you is that this CPU board is a PIA to R & R so you want to get it right in one try.

#1880 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

Not sure if it helps but here’s a good picture I took of mine[quoted image]

That works perfect thank you!

#1881 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Return 7 tells you that Q78 is the area you want to concentrate on. It could be a transistor, or it could even be a resistor.
You can google how to test a transistor and how to test resistor. But something in the group of parts for Return 7 is where I think your problem lies. But as I said, I am not the premier board repair man. So you do this at your own risk.
You have a couple of style of transistors. Unfortunately, while DE copied a lot from Williams, DE did not think it was necessary to add a list of part numbers. You will need a magnifying glass to get in there and look at the part numbers.
The one thing I can tell you is that this CPU board is a PIA to R & R so you want to get it right in one try.

thanks for the heads up. i will do some research before i decide to tackle it

Quoted from apic7917:

That works perfect thank you!

np glad i could help

#1882 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Boy, you should have gotten in contact with TNT amusements.
They might, still have the playfield... I do not know.

Don't think it was TNT but GAP - if you we're talking 'bout the same one.

#1883 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

thanks for the heads up. i will do some research before i decide to tackle it

I wish you well. And don't forget about boryguard if it is beyond your skills.

#1884 5 months ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Finally done..... brutal wait to get the decals. Lot of time went into bringing the chrome back to life. New CPR plastics look great! Working 100% now...ugh.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Looks awesome, great job! Time machine is a fun game.

#1885 5 months ago

Another Data East joins my collection

20200516_150012 (resized).jpg
#1886 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Another Data East joins my collection
[quoted image]

Does the T-Rex work?

#1887 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Another Data East joins my collection
[quoted image]

Looks to be in dire need of a ColorDMD.

#1888 5 months ago

Just picked up a tftc today , puttin inthe new plastics that came with it. Are these just promotional pieces? I see a few pics of the keeper on the playfield , but it doesnt look like it belongs there. Thx

20200516_182040 (resized).jpg
#1889 5 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Just picked up a tftc today , puttin inthe new plastics that came with it. Are these just promotional pieces? I see a few pics of the keeper on the playfield , but it doesnt look like it belongs there. Thx
[quoted image]

You are missing two clear half pieces that put the display together.

#1890 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Does the T-Rex work?

Partially, the side to side has been disabled as the motor grinds or sticks. I'm going to take apart to repair or just replace.

My wife laughed like hell the first time it ate the ball.

#1891 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Looks to be in dire need of a ColorDMD.

Other more important stuff first! Machine is a reimport from Spain and badly hacked in spots. I spent a few hours already chasing down problems and making things right.

She will look factory when I'm done.

20200516_143429 (resized).jpg20200516_184650 (resized).jpg
#1892 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You are missing two clear half pieces that put the display together.

I've got the whole set. What is it, just a display force desk or something? Thx for the reply

#1893 5 months ago
20200517_080422 (resized).jpg20200517_080428 (resized).jpg
#1894 5 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

[quoted image][quoted image]

I’m wondering if the the keeper is supposed to be in the front.

#1895 5 months ago

No, he blocks everything

#1896 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Another Data East joins my collection
[quoted image]

Welcome . . . to Jurassic Park!

#1897 5 months ago

Looking for a set of stand up targets for my Time Machine if anyone has some laying around..

30b7afc6daffca72df0fc371fa005a4f322cc4f1~2 (resized).jpg
#1898 5 months ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

Looking for a set of stand up targets for my Time Machine if anyone has some laying around..
[quoted image]

Check thepinballwizard.net, had some 2 years ago.

#1899 5 months ago

Recently traded for a d.e. star wars, have never owner or played a d.e. before. Having issues with the dmd, comes and goes. I've cleaned, burnished and checked every connection. Is it the ribbon cables, the dmd board ,or,, ? Thanks

#1900 5 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Recently traded for a d.e. star wars, have never owner or played a d.e. before. Having issues with the dmd, comes and goes. I've cleaned, burnished and checked every connection. Is it the ribbon cables, the dmd board ,or,, ? Thanks

Sounds like one of the ribbon cables to me. Wiggle on each end.

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