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(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club


By PinballManiac40

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,154 posts
  • 400 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by truemagoo102
  • Topic is favorited by 181 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 452 votes
    58%
  • I have one or more. 222 votes
    28%
  • Considering buying one or more. 70 votes
    9%
  • No, never 35 votes
    4%

(Multiple choice - 779 votes by 751 Pinsiders)

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There are 2154 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 44.
#1801 5 months ago
Quoted from Blackjacker:

I haven't installed mine yet, but others report that the EZ Slide brackets from Back Alley make a big difference.
https://backalleycreations.com/collections/ez-slide-brackets/products/ez-slide-slider-bracket

Okay, those look awesome. What are you waiting for, we all need a good review on how the install went and how you like them.

#1802 5 months ago
Quoted from Blackjacker:

I haven't installed mine yet, but others report that the EZ Slide brackets from Back Alley make a big difference.
https://backalleycreations.com/collections/ez-slide-brackets/products/ez-slide-slider-bracket

Yes exactly what I'm looking for...thanks...

#1803 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I'm sorry. I got mixed up with one that is on eBay
[quoted image]
Now I am assuming that this one with the black front is correct.
[quoted image]
I wish you well with TNT. I talked to Todd awhile back and asked if he would do some "name your price" telephone consulting. He was at "No" and would not budge. If he smoked, I would try to ply him with box of fine cigars via a FedEX singing telegram.[quoted image]

I made an offer on that one for sale on LI on Ebay, hah!

No keys no idea if it works.

#1804 5 months ago
Quoted from Link_Standard:

Has there ever been any research into why the stealth coat was so bad (unless by stealth they mean they forgot to put it on wahh ohh). From my extremely limited chemistry expertise and all the pictures I've seen of TMNT and Batman playfields. The hard coat doesn't seem to wear evenly at all but just chip and crack. And when it chips and cracks it takes all the paint underneath with it. It almost seems like maybe a humidity thing combined with the inherent vibration of a pinball machine. Trying to clean and wax the things might have even made it worse. Hard coat cracks, it's then shaken lose by at the vibrations and then you come along and clean it with a rag and end up breaking up the clear coat even more.
That's the only explanation I can see fitting with the completely random and unexplainable wear patterns on so many playfields. Wear spots under the ramps on TMNT. Wear spots in the outlines and above the apron on Batman. They're are so many playfields with bare wood exposed in places where either the ball never even touches, or the ball is moving extremely slow and the player has no real control over it. I'm exaggerating a little of course but thank god they fixed it relatively quickly and only these two games seem to really have a problem(bad batch, improper application, QC issues in general who knows). This is a perfect example of why Williams spent like 4 years testing diamond plate before they finally put it on everything.

All said and done... I think it just was a sales gimmick to lures operators to a sale.

I'm not knowledgeable on Turtles playfield woes, Batman is a different story. Most of the Batmans I've encountered has the common wear spots around the pops and rollover lanes and usually around the area of the Batcave return - mine is definitely hurting in this area. Some I've seen also have playfield wear at the entrance of the Batcave ramp - mine is a slight victim as well.

I still say this has got to be one of the most requested playfields that need to be redone. I really wish I would've nabbed that NOS one on Ebay a while back. Grrrrr!!

#1805 5 months ago
Quoted from Blackjacker:

I haven't installed mine yet, but others report that the EZ Slide brackets from Back Alley make a big difference.
https://backalleycreations.com/collections/ez-slide-brackets/products/ez-slide-slider-bracket

I’ve installed 2 sets. pretty simple to install but you Probably will need assistance from a friend to help you support the playfield while changing the bracket but I did manage to successfully do one by myself. Takes about 10-15 minutes with assistance . Matt @ Back Alley creations has a video at the bottom of the link Blackjacker posted. They are obviously plastic instead of metal but almost a year later they seem to have held up well. Definitely an improvement, very smooth and no more metal on metal car wreck sounds and jerking while raising the playfield. I give the ez-slider bracket “two thumbs up”

#1806 5 months ago

Hello everyome, i just recently bought a LW3. Game plays great but i have a question about the flashers that im hoping someone can answer. The machine is missing the blue rotating topper, and i am looking for an original replacement as well but herebis my problem. In diagnostics all the flashers work as they should but during gameplay the flashers never light. Could this be due to the topper mossing? Im just a little confused as to why they are not functioning during gameplay but work great in diagnostics. There are no other issues with the game and it plays and functions as it should. Does anyone have any insight on this?

#1807 5 months ago

A/C select relay could be going bad...
Adjustment#? might be set on off?
I would install factory and go from there.

#1808 5 months ago
Quoted from Demonstyl:

Hello everyome, i just recently bought a LW3. Game plays great but i have a question about the flashers that im hoping someone can answer. The machine is missing the blue rotating topper, and i am looking for an original replacement as well but herebis my problem. In diagnostics all the flashers work as they should but during gameplay the flashers never light. Could this be due to the topper mossing? Im just a little confused as to why they are not functioning during gameplay but work great in diagnostics. There are no other issues with the game and it plays and functions as it should. Does anyone have any insight on this?

1) Gameplay flashers work regardless of topper.

2) If they work during test but not during game look for flasher on/off in audits and adjustments.

Adj. 35 is for flash lamps, normal, dim and off.

3) Good luck on search for original topper, grabbed a wojo one off Amazon, $20

acaf84dd4e91c1438ee6c74d195bd966397b6d0c (resized).jpg
#1809 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Good luck on search for original topper

Like Avatar... unattainable, Unobtainium.

#1810 5 months ago

Thanks for the info, i will look through the adjustments this afternoon and see if that is the issue. This is my first DE game so im still learning all of its nuances. I appreciate the help and quick response and will update you all after i look at it today.. i will have to go with the wojo light for now.. thanks again everyone!

#1811 5 months ago
Quoted from Demonstyl:

Thanks for the info, i will look through the adjustments this afternoon and see if that is the issue. This is my first DE game so im still learning all of its nuances. I appreciate the help and quick response and will update you all after i look at it today.. i will have to go with the wojo light for now.. thanks again everyone!

amazon.com link »

Wolo, sorry.

1) Remove the bulb and toss it. It is incandescent and pulls too many amps.

2) Replace with Comet 13 SMD tower flasher

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/13smd-tower-flasher

3) Screw a large fender washer to the top of the cab near the wire hole so the magnet has something to stick too.

4) Cut off the 12v lighter adapter and wire the light to the lead at the top of the inner backbox near the dedicated fuse for the rotating beacon.

Enjoy!

#1812 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

amazon.com link »
Wolo, sorry.
1) Remove the bulb and toss it. It is incandescent and pulls too many amps.
2) Replace with Comet 13 SMD tower flasher
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/13smd-tower-flasher
3) Screw a large fender washer to the top of the cab near the wire hole so the magnet has something to stick too.
4) Cut off the 12v lighter adapter and wire the light to the lead at the top of the inner backbox near the dedicated fuse for the rotating beacon.
Enjoy!

Thanks! You already answered what would have been my next question! Lol

#1813 5 months ago
Quoted from Demonstyl:

Thanks! You already answered what would have been my next question! Lol

As a side note you can certainly run a smaller flasher (5SMD for example) but I like to know when that sucker is going and with the 13SMD tower you know for sure when it fires up.

#1814 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

As a side note you can certainly run a smaller flasher (5SMD for example) but I like to know when that sucker is going and with the 13SMD tower you know for sure when it fires up.

I do wish that Comet made flashers with lenses. I left mine original #89 bulbs in because I really despised the way that the raw bulbs looked sticking out of their holes (mainly aesthetically but I also didn't like the light they produced).

#1815 5 months ago

Playboy 35th..... probably down to one issue left.......

Almost done with this Playboy 35th project game. So much work has been done finding missing parts, rebuilt flippers, cleaned and adjusted switches and connectors, new lights, new rubbers, new balls, new power supply, new ppb board, new display, new game roms, reflowed solder on all old board connectors and lamp boards under play field, converted from Europe to US power, added NVram, and more.... down to a couple things left.

-missing lamp board for "pinball" lights between back box speakers (board being made for this to be tested in a few weeks)

-8 amp fuse blows for solenoid bridge rectifier in back box after about 10 games are played (probably time for the upgrade inkognito board on that one)

-terrible sounds: the game plays "playboy" voice at power up correctly but nothing else is correct after that. Everything else is static noises after that in game and in sound test when sounds/voice should be played. I swapped board with my Monday Night Football and issue follows playboy roms, so new sound roms are on the way

The only issue I don't think I have figured out already is the 3 stand up target bank in the middle of the play field. With a hard direct hit, those 3 targets will almost never register a hit. If it's a soft hit with the ball, or just pushing it with my fingers it will register every time. I've gone through switch test mode and they all test good with a hand touch or light ball hit, but they still almost never register a hard hit.

All the switches have been cleaned with rubbing alcohol/q-tip, adjusted for proper spacing and make great wiping motion contact, all diodes are present and in the correct direction, and I'm pretty sure there isn't supposed to be a capacitor or resistor on those stand ups since there aren't on any of the other stand ups in the game. I know in older games the caps can go bad on stand up switches for the "delay" for a hard fast hit so the game still recognizes the hit, but I don't think this one should have those.

Any suggestions on getting those 3 stand up targets to register ALL hits soft AND hard? I would think if one of those diodes was bad there would be a row/column issue going on, but all other switches work great in game and test mode.

#1816 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Any suggestions on getting those 3 stand up targets to register ALL hits soft AND hard? I would think if one of those diodes was bad there would be a row/column issue going on, but all other switches work great in game and test mode.

Are the gold plated points blown/shot/outworn?

#1817 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Are the gold plated points blown/shot/outworn?

I noticed they were off set a little bit so loosened up the mounting screws and lined them up again. Still same issue. They don't look worn or pitted at all.

#1818 5 months ago

Just a general question - Is there any reason to not try adding a capacitor across the contacts? Maybe this is a systemic issue with this machine. Any other owners have the same issue?

#1819 5 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Just a general question - Is there any reason to not try adding a capacitor across the contacts? Maybe this is a systemic issue with this machine. Any other owners have the same issue?

PIA drivers are buffered... 2N3904 drive each column...
The only thing I could think of is maybe software IRQ subroutines are not on par;
So to speak...
I know Williams pinball had strobe issues on their early games. ( thus the capacitor reference )
I have, in the past, replaced warn out points on heavily hit targets...
Service Bulletin #018 Program Revision
New EPROMS Version A02-3
Revision is for sample games.
'Switch closure issues with kickback assembly'

#1820 5 months ago

Vec-tor
Thanks for the explanation.

#1821 5 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Just a general question - Is there any reason to not try adding a capacitor across the contacts? Maybe this is a systemic issue with this machine. Any other owners have the same issue?

I tried it once, caused odd things to happen. New contacts fixed problem even though the old ones looked fine.

#1822 5 months ago

Well the flashers were turned off on my LW3 on the settings.. so they are up and running as they should be.. Thanks for the insight everyone!

#1823 5 months ago
Quoted from Demonstyl:

Well the flashers were turned off on my LW3 on the settings.. so they are up and running as they should be.. Thanks for the insight everyone!

#1824 5 months ago

Just a quick story i thought you guys might like... my 15 year old hardly ever goes in a plays any pinball here at the house.. Right now we have Wizard of Oz, Game of Thrones, Fireball, Mata Hari and the the newest is the Lethal Weapon 3.. Since ive bought LW3 hehas been in there playing it everyday since its arrived.. he told me today that he loves that game anf its his favorite that we have ever had here at the house! So take that Bally, JJP, and Stern! My kid is a Data East kid! Lol

#1825 5 months ago

Can anyone tell me if the back on the DE DMD's are supposed to have two hooks or just one? My LW3 only has one and it fits a little loose making me think I need to find another.

That said... Does anyone have any idea what term/part I need to be searching for!?

#1826 5 months ago

Tommy is my only pin for the moment

#1827 5 months ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Can anyone tell me if the back on the DE DMD's are supposed to have two hooks or just one? My LW3 only has one and it fits a little loose making me think I need to find another.
That said... Does anyone have any idea what term/part I need to be searching for!?

Yes supposed to have two hooks

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-speaker-panel-clip-3d-printed.html

#1828 5 months ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Can anyone tell me if the back on the DE DMD's are supposed to have two hooks or just one?

Every DE game with a plastic speaker panel is supposed to have 2 hooks holding it in place.

#1829 5 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Every DE game with a plastic speaker panel is supposed to have 2 hooks holding it in place.

My LW3 was missing one, made a replacement out of aluminum, lol. I would had purchased if I had known they were available.

#1830 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

My LW3 was missing one, made a replacement out of aluminum, lol. I would had purchased if I had known they were available.

At least you are improving your pinball skill set. I don't have those type of machinist skills.

#1831 5 months ago

Added to the cart, thanks guys!

#1832 5 months ago

having a bit of an issue with my playfield lamp matrix on my data east batman. when i test the lamp drive and return lines with my volt meter on ac volts they all measure between 6.3-7.8v fluctuating as they flash im guessing. i have one set the that reads down about 3.5-4.2v. that whole line of lights is off on my playfield. its looking like the lamp drive and return lines number 7 yellow violet and red violet. any ideas why this one is reading lower than the rest and not working?

#1833 5 months ago

Could be GI connector on Power Supply Board. Worth a look.

#1834 5 months ago
Quoted from Jrotten:

Could be GI connector on Power Supply Board. Worth a look.

ive checked the voltage on all of those wires as well, both at the power supply itself and where they connect to the lamp driver section of the cpu board. measured in dc volts the all are around 15.3v. could it possibly be one of the components in the lamp driver section on the way out??

#1835 5 months ago

It’s possible. This is what I found on my D/E power supply.

EB5BCFFE-8F3F-412B-AC32-8F6E3C3FB066 (resized).jpeg
#1836 5 months ago
Quoted from Jrotten:

It’s possible. This is what I found on my D/E power supply.
[quoted image]

ya i had that same problem with the gi connector on my machine. i cut it off and replaced it with a new one awhile back. that doesnt effect the insert lighting tho. the string of lights thats arent working are all inserts

#1837 5 months ago

Must be lamp driver section for the inserts like you mentioned. I haven't had that issue yet.

#1838 5 months ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

ive checked the voltage on all of those wires as well, both at the power supply itself and where they connect to the lamp driver section of the cpu board. measured in dc volts the all are around 15.3v. could it possibly be one of the components in the lamp driver section on the way out??

Here is your Lamp matrix.

Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 9.44.42 PM (resized).png

Here they are on the CPU.

Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 9.45.23 PM (resized).png

Figure out which Lamp Drive or Lamp Return has the weak lights and find the corresponding Q numbers on the CPU drawing in the drive rows or drive columns.

Hopefully you have the manual because I cannot get the pics large enough for you to really see the Q numbers.

#1839 5 months ago

Hey Guys,

Data East TMNT:

I'm in the process of ordering replacement parts for a new plastic ramp. I was able to find rivets through Marco. As for the ramp plates (part nos. 4, 5, 7) and microswitches (part no. 2), I'm struggling. At the very least, I would love to have replacement microswitches [500-5335-00]. Do you guys know of any alternative switch part numbers that can be used in place of the original ramp microswitch 500-5335-00?

I appreciate your support!
20200511_121618 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200511-121648_Gallery (resized).jpg

#1840 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
Data East TMNT:
I'm in the process of ordering replacement parts for a new plastic ramp. I was able to find rivets through Marco. As for the ramp plates (part nos. 4, 5, 7) and microswitches (part no. 2), I'm struggling. At the very least, I would love to have replacement microswitches [500-5335-00]. Do you guys know of any alternative switch part numbers that can be used in place of the original ramp microswitch 500-5335-00?
I appreciate your support![quoted image][quoted image]

I have a tip for you. If you go to the pics you uploaded and click on the rotational arrows you can rotate your picture so it is sitting upright. It will make it easier for everyone to read.

Screen Shot 2020-05-11 at 11.44.03 AM (resized).png

#1841 5 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I have a tip for you. If you go to the pics you uploaded and click on the rotational arrows you can rotate your picture so it is sitting upright. It will make it easier for everyone to read.
[quoted image]

Sorry about the pics. I obviously didn't know how to rotate my pics. Appreciate the help.

20200511_125347 (resized).jpg
#1842 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Sorry about the pics. I obviously didn't know how to rotate my pics. Appreciate the help.[quoted image]

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_str=cherry&search_in=all

#1844 5 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Thanks, gdonovan!

No problem, great vendor with prompt service too. Carries a number of DE parts.

#1845 5 months ago

Any help would be immensely appreciated. The back story is below in case it helps, but here's the current state...

When the lock ball assembly releases the ball to be kicked into the shooter lane, the two main flippers fire once and blow their fuses. Here's a video of it in action.

Note: I had only replaced the left flipper fuse for the video, but if both were in, both would have triggered and then blown.

I did a visual inspection and don't see anything obvious. Any ideas? thank you!!

Back story...

Finally joined the club...ALMOST...

My machine arrived a few days ago but blew a fuse on the first game and I've been in a bad place ever since.

- First game after arrival. My daughter has been playing for a few minutes and gets tri-ball. At some point during the tri-ball, all flippers stop working and all balls drain.

- I did a coil test and all 50v coils won't fire. Upon inspection, I realized that F5 on the PPB board (which is an xpin), has blown

- While waiting for fuses, I came across service bulletin 53 (http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb53.pdf) which says that the upper flipper coil can cause a short due to proximity to the wire bundle. I inspected and one wire had already been repaired and two more have some metal showing. Fixed those and secured the bundle away from the flipper coil.

- Installed a new F5. Do a coil test. The 50V coils work...but when the main flipper coils fire, the flippers go up once...and then never go up again.

- Take a look inside and the two fuses (f1 & f3) on the flipper board have blown.

#1846 5 months ago

Question for those that have experimented; any thoughts on a set of replacement 4 x 10 speakers for Pre-DMD Data East? I just tried some generic 4 x 10's and they were horrible. Just looking for a set comparable to the originals, I have one that has the slightest buzz and its irritating.

#1847 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Question for those that have experimented; any thoughts on a set of replacement 4 x 10 speakers for Pre-DMD Data East? I just tried some generic 4 x 10's and they were horrible. Just looking for a set comparable to the originals, I have one that has the slightest buzz and its irritating.

The buzz isn't usually because of the speakers, it's because of poor grounding on Data East machines. Some are much worse than others. I would look into the threads there first. That being said, I just did a speaker swap on a newer DE (Tommy) over the weekend. Huge difference but a few things to note. Get 4 Ohm speakers, if you crank the sound up a lot, you may need a separate amp to push to the speakers. This can get complicated, I am not familiar with the older DEs to help there. But if you do a seperate amp, you will likely get rid of all the hum as well.

#1848 5 months ago
Quoted from JDub03:

The buzz isn't usually because of the speakers, it's because of poor grounding on Data East machines. Some are much worse than others. I would look into the threads there first. That being said, I just did a speaker swap on a newer DE (Tommy) over the weekend. Huge difference but a few things to note. Get 4 Ohm speakers, if you crank the sound up a lot, you may need a separate amp to push to the speakers. This can get complicated, I am not familiar with the older DEs to help there. But if you do a seperate amp, you will likely get rid of all the hum as well.

Hum is not the issue, physical defect in the cone itself with age.

#1849 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Hum is not the issue, physical defect in the cone itself with age.

Are the replacement speakers 4 Ohm? when you say they sound horrible, as in tinny or can't get much volume? What is the wattage ranking on the replacements? My guess is the sound board may not be able to drive quality sound to the newer speakers. The originals are around 10 watt at most if I recall. My Tommy subwoofer was only a 10 watt 8inch paper cone. So quality sound and power aren't in the older machines. If you can find a low watt 4x10 4 Ohm speaker that would probably be your safest bet. Lower end is probably better, hope this helps.

#1850 5 months ago

I used Boss CH4330 car speakers from Amazon in my RoboCop. I think they sound pretty good

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