Okay, those look awesome. What are you waiting for, we all need a good review on how the install went and how you like them.

Yes exactly what I'm looking for...thanks...

I made an offer on that one for sale on LI on Ebay, hah!

No keys no idea if it works.

All said and done... I think it just was a sales gimmick to lures operators to a sale.

I'm not knowledgeable on Turtles playfield woes, Batman is a different story. Most of the Batmans I've encountered has the common wear spots around the pops and rollover lanes and usually around the area of the Batcave return - mine is definitely hurting in this area. Some I've seen also have playfield wear at the entrance of the Batcave ramp - mine is a slight victim as well.

I still say this has got to be one of the most requested playfields that need to be redone. I really wish I would've nabbed that NOS one on Ebay a while back. Grrrrr!!

I’ve installed 2 sets. pretty simple to install but you Probably will need assistance from a friend to help you support the playfield while changing the bracket but I did manage to successfully do one by myself. Takes about 10-15 minutes with assistance . Matt @ Back Alley creations has a video at the bottom of the link Blackjacker posted. They are obviously plastic instead of metal but almost a year later they seem to have held up well. Definitely an improvement, very smooth and no more metal on metal car wreck sounds and jerking while raising the playfield. I give the ez-slider bracket “two thumbs up”

Hello everyome, i just recently bought a LW3. Game plays great but i have a question about the flashers that im hoping someone can answer. The machine is missing the blue rotating topper, and i am looking for an original replacement as well but herebis my problem. In diagnostics all the flashers work as they should but during gameplay the flashers never light. Could this be due to the topper mossing? Im just a little confused as to why they are not functioning during gameplay but work great in diagnostics. There are no other issues with the game and it plays and functions as it should. Does anyone have any insight on this?

A/C select relay could be going bad...
Adjustment#? might be set on off?
I would install factory and go from there.

1) Gameplay flashers work regardless of topper.

2) If they work during test but not during game look for flasher on/off in audits and adjustments.

Adj. 35 is for flash lamps, normal, dim and off.

3) Good luck on search for original topper, grabbed a wojo one off Amazon, $20

acaf84dd4e91c1438ee6c74d195bd966397b6d0c (resized).jpg

Like Avatar... unattainable, Unobtainium.

Thanks for the info, i will look through the adjustments this afternoon and see if that is the issue. This is my first DE game so im still learning all of its nuances. I appreciate the help and quick response and will update you all after i look at it today.. i will have to go with the wojo light for now.. thanks again everyone!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNOI8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00

Wolo, sorry.

1) Remove the bulb and toss it. It is incandescent and pulls too many amps.

2) Replace with Comet 13 SMD tower flasher

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/13smd-tower-flasher

3) Screw a large fender washer to the top of the cab near the wire hole so the magnet has something to stick too.

4) Cut off the 12v lighter adapter and wire the light to the lead at the top of the inner backbox near the dedicated fuse for the rotating beacon.

Enjoy!

Thanks! You already answered what would have been my next question! Lol

As a side note you can certainly run a smaller flasher (5SMD for example) but I like to know when that sucker is going and with the 13SMD tower you know for sure when it fires up.

I do wish that Comet made flashers with lenses. I left mine original #89 bulbs in because I really despised the way that the raw bulbs looked sticking out of their holes (mainly aesthetically but I also didn't like the light they produced).

Playboy 35th..... probably down to one issue left.......

Almost done with this Playboy 35th project game. So much work has been done finding missing parts, rebuilt flippers, cleaned and adjusted switches and connectors, new lights, new rubbers, new balls, new power supply, new ppb board, new display, new game roms, reflowed solder on all old board connectors and lamp boards under play field, converted from Europe to US power, added NVram, and more.... down to a couple things left.

-missing lamp board for "pinball" lights between back box speakers (board being made for this to be tested in a few weeks)

-8 amp fuse blows for solenoid bridge rectifier in back box after about 10 games are played (probably time for the upgrade inkognito board on that one)

-terrible sounds: the game plays "playboy" voice at power up correctly but nothing else is correct after that. Everything else is static noises after that in game and in sound test when sounds/voice should be played. I swapped board with my Monday Night Football and issue follows playboy roms, so new sound roms are on the way

The only issue I don't think I have figured out already is the 3 stand up target bank in the middle of the play field. With a hard direct hit, those 3 targets will almost never register a hit. If it's a soft hit with the ball, or just pushing it with my fingers it will register every time. I've gone through switch test mode and they all test good with a hand touch or light ball hit, but they still almost never register a hard hit.

All the switches have been cleaned with rubbing alcohol/q-tip, adjusted for proper spacing and make great wiping motion contact, all diodes are present and in the correct direction, and I'm pretty sure there isn't supposed to be a capacitor or resistor on those stand ups since there aren't on any of the other stand ups in the game. I know in older games the caps can go bad on stand up switches for the "delay" for a hard fast hit so the game still recognizes the hit, but I don't think this one should have those.

Any suggestions on getting those 3 stand up targets to register ALL hits soft AND hard? I would think if one of those diodes was bad there would be a row/column issue going on, but all other switches work great in game and test mode.

Are the gold plated points blown/shot/outworn?

I noticed they were off set a little bit so loosened up the mounting screws and lined them up again. Still same issue. They don't look worn or pitted at all.

Just a general question - Is there any reason to not try adding a capacitor across the contacts? Maybe this is a systemic issue with this machine. Any other owners have the same issue?

PIA drivers are buffered... 2N3904 drive each column...
The only thing I could think of is maybe software IRQ subroutines are not on par;
So to speak...
I know Williams pinball had strobe issues on their early games. ( thus the capacitor reference )
I have, in the past, replaced warn out points on heavily hit targets...
Service Bulletin #018 Program Revision
New EPROMS Version A02-3
Revision is for sample games.
'Switch closure issues with kickback assembly'

Vec-tor
Thanks for the explanation.

I tried it once, caused odd things to happen. New contacts fixed problem even though the old ones looked fine.

Well the flashers were turned off on my LW3 on the settings.. so they are up and running as they should be.. Thanks for the insight everyone!

Just a quick story i thought you guys might like... my 15 year old hardly ever goes in a plays any pinball here at the house.. Right now we have Wizard of Oz, Game of Thrones, Fireball, Mata Hari and the the newest is the Lethal Weapon 3.. Since ive bought LW3 hehas been in there playing it everyday since its arrived.. he told me today that he loves that game anf its his favorite that we have ever had here at the house! So take that Bally, JJP, and Stern! My kid is a Data East kid! Lol

Can anyone tell me if the back on the DE DMD's are supposed to have two hooks or just one? My LW3 only has one and it fits a little loose making me think I need to find another.

That said... Does anyone have any idea what term/part I need to be searching for!?

Tommy is my only pin for the moment

Yes supposed to have two hooks

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-speaker-panel-clip-3d-printed.html

My LW3 was missing one, made a replacement out of aluminum, lol. I would had purchased if I had known they were available.

Added to the cart, thanks guys!

having a bit of an issue with my playfield lamp matrix on my data east batman. when i test the lamp drive and return lines with my volt meter on ac volts they all measure between 6.3-7.8v fluctuating as they flash im guessing. i have one set the that reads down about 3.5-4.2v. that whole line of lights is off on my playfield. its looking like the lamp drive and return lines number 7 yellow violet and red violet. any ideas why this one is reading lower than the rest and not working?

Could be GI connector on Power Supply Board. Worth a look.

ive checked the voltage on all of those wires as well, both at the power supply itself and where they connect to the lamp driver section of the cpu board. measured in dc volts the all are around 15.3v. could it possibly be one of the components in the lamp driver section on the way out??

It’s possible. This is what I found on my D/E power supply.

EB5BCFFE-8F3F-412B-AC32-8F6E3C3FB066 (resized).jpeg

ya i had that same problem with the gi connector on my machine. i cut it off and replaced it with a new one awhile back. that doesnt effect the insert lighting tho. the string of lights thats arent working are all inserts

Must be lamp driver section for the inserts like you mentioned. I haven't had that issue yet.

Here is your Lamp matrix.

Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 9.44.42 PM (resized).png

Here they are on the CPU.

Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 9.45.23 PM (resized).png

Figure out which Lamp Drive or Lamp Return has the weak lights and find the corresponding Q numbers on the CPU drawing in the drive rows or drive columns.

Hopefully you have the manual because I cannot get the pics large enough for you to really see the Q numbers.

Hey Guys,

Data East TMNT:

I'm in the process of ordering replacement parts for a new plastic ramp. I was able to find rivets through Marco. As for the ramp plates (part nos. 4, 5, 7) and microswitches (part no. 2), I'm struggling. At the very least, I would love to have replacement microswitches [500-5335-00]. Do you guys know of any alternative switch part numbers that can be used in place of the original ramp microswitch 500-5335-00?

I appreciate your support!
20200511_121618 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200511-121648_Gallery (resized).jpg

I have a tip for you. If you go to the pics you uploaded and click on the rotational arrows you can rotate your picture so it is sitting upright. It will make it easier for everyone to read.

Screen Shot 2020-05-11 at 11.44.03 AM (resized).png

Sorry about the pics. I obviously didn't know how to rotate my pics. Appreciate the help.

20200511_125347 (resized).jpg

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_str=cherry&search_in=all

Thanks, gdonovan!

No problem, great vendor with prompt service too. Carries a number of DE parts.

Any help would be immensely appreciated. The back story is below in case it helps, but here's the current state...

When the lock ball assembly releases the ball to be kicked into the shooter lane, the two main flippers fire once and blow their fuses. Here's a video of it in action.

Note: I had only replaced the left flipper fuse for the video, but if both were in, both would have triggered and then blown.

I did a visual inspection and don't see anything obvious. Any ideas? thank you!!

Back story...

Finally joined the club...ALMOST...

My machine arrived a few days ago but blew a fuse on the first game and I've been in a bad place ever since.

- First game after arrival. My daughter has been playing for a few minutes and gets tri-ball. At some point during the tri-ball, all flippers stop working and all balls drain.

- I did a coil test and all 50v coils won't fire. Upon inspection, I realized that F5 on the PPB board (which is an xpin), has blown

- While waiting for fuses, I came across service bulletin 53 (http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb53.pdf) which says that the upper flipper coil can cause a short due to proximity to the wire bundle. I inspected and one wire had already been repaired and two more have some metal showing. Fixed those and secured the bundle away from the flipper coil.

- Installed a new F5. Do a coil test. The 50V coils work...but when the main flipper coils fire, the flippers go up once...and then never go up again.

- Take a look inside and the two fuses (f1 & f3) on the flipper board have blown.

Question for those that have experimented; any thoughts on a set of replacement 4 x 10 speakers for Pre-DMD Data East? I just tried some generic 4 x 10's and they were horrible. Just looking for a set comparable to the originals, I have one that has the slightest buzz and its irritating.

Hum is not the issue, physical defect in the cone itself with age.

I used Boss CH4330 car speakers from Amazon in my RoboCop. I think they sound pretty good