Lethbridge, AB
TNT amusements posted a Data East plant tour video from 1990. Really interesting to see the entire build process. Thanks Todd
(Topic ID: 109642)
Linked Games
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends, The
Data East, 1993-
Back to the Future: The Pinball
Data East, 1990
-
Batman
Data East, 1991
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Checkpoint
Data East, 1991
-
Guns N' Roses
Data East, 1994
-
Hook
Data East, 1992
-
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
-
Laser War
Data East, 1987
There are more than 8 games linked to this topic.
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Pleasant Plains, IL
AntennaMan - It looks like your machine is using a coin scanner, of which I know nothing. I've attached pics of my door in Star Wars , its identical to the one in my Jurassic Park. These are from 1993, whereas yours is 1994.
It looks like there are brackets that hold a frame that uses a regular Coin Controls mechanism - you don't have any of that. I am thinking your best bet may be to find a machine that is being parted out and buy a door to get the parts. Another option may be the parts books on Marco's site, and then hope they have everything.
Good luck - I will follow to see how you fare.
IMG_5583[1] (resized).JPGIMG_5584[1] (resized).JPGIMG_5585[1] (resized).JPGHi all,
After owning my BTTF for many years, I just realized that there is a place to install a center post between the flippers. My game does not have the post. Should it be there or was it just an option for the operator?
I'm thinking about installing it, does anyone know the correct style of post for DE?
Thanks
Quoted from DropTarget:..
I'm thinking about installing it, does anyone know the correct style of post for DE?
It looks like this....
BTTF (resized).jpg
The manual says this is it..
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5004-00
CenterPost (resized).jpg
My Time Machine has the spot too. But it is a factory post with machine threaded post and not the wood thread as shown in the post above from TxJay. Does your BTTF already have the hole? And is the hole already threaded to accept a machine threaded post?
Quoted from DropTarget:Hi all,
After owning my BTTF for many years, I just realized that there is a place to install a center post between the flippers. My game does not have the post. Should it be there or was it just an option for the operator?
I'm thinking about installing it, does anyone know the correct style of post for DE?
Thanks
Quoted from TxJay:It looks like this....
Thank You
Quoted from sagejr:Does your BTTF already have the hole? And is the hole already threaded to accept a machine threaded post?
No hole, but there is a dimple where the post would go. Perhaps it's a pilot hole, I'll need to double check.
What's the general consensus if the game play is better with or without the post?
Quoted from DropTarget:Thank You
No hole, but there is a dimple where the post would go. Perhaps it's a pilot hole, I'll need to double check.
What's the general consensus if the game play iOS better with or without the post?
In my opinion, if it doesn't have the hole for the post already, I'd leave it alone...again, just my opinion here as this doesn't have anything to do with game play, it's just about original preservation.
If you decide to add the post, you could use the post as shown by TXJay. I've never owned that game so use caution when adding a post to playfield. Mistakes are hard to fix 
Quoted from TxJay:It looks like this....
Looks all wrong. If that post was there.... he'd have something to put his foot on!!!
Quoted from DropTarget:Hi all,
After owning my BTTF for many years, I just realized that there is a place to install a center post between the flippers.
Thanks
My ST 25th has the same dimple/pilot hole, but I'd never dream of installing a post.
I'm getting two ballls ejecting on each each ball on my tftc. Trough issue? Diode? Any help appreciated. Thanks
Quoted from t2:I'm getting two ballls ejecting on each each ball on my tftc. Trough issue? Diode? Any help appreciated. Thanks
Check the outhole and through switches. 90% of the time this happens it’s something mechanical or easy to spot. Is it also thinking the ball is immediately over or anything else weird? My money is a wire or stuck switch.
Quoted from TxJay:Does he not have any available on his website?
Reached out to him, says they're no longer being made, and LEDOCD doesn't make a board for these machines. Sadness.....
Quoted from monkfe:Reached out to him, says they're no longer being made, and LEDOCD doesn't make a board for these machines. Sadness.....
I believe I was fortunate and got in on his last run. Really wish he would share with someone else if he isn't going to make them anymore as this is a fantastic mod - would never give mine up that is installed in my JP.
1 week later
Hey Guys,
I've noticed the sound in my TMNT has been inconsistent. Sometimes the bass is nonexistent. I decided to play around with the volume knob and noticed big differences when going to higher or lower volume. There is a sweet spot that allows for optimal sound, but I'm pretty sure this isn't normal. Based on the videos below, am I due for new speakers? If so, any recommendations? Also, not sure if I need to replace sound board caps or other board components. Just hoping for any advice on this issue. I appreciate the support!
Change ALL of the capacitors on that sound board...they are 30 years old and drying out more every day!
Quoted from toddtuckey:Change ALL of the capacitors on that sound board...they are 30 years old and drying out more every day!
Thank you, Mr. Tuckey! I have some work to do.
Also, thank you to Frank L. for his battery board!
20200321_104105 (resized).jpgQuoted from toddtuckey:Change ALL of the capacitors on that sound board...they are 30 years old and drying out more every day!
Yep, I can attest to that. When I refurbished my TMNT, the left channel was dead. It was one of the caps; after swapping the caps associated with the left channel, all is well again. That said........... I bought caps for the right and bass channels too, but didn't replace them yet. I will; I was troubleshooting at the time and once I got the left working again (right and bass seem to be working fine), I didn't pull the board back out to do the rest of the cap swaps. Gee, maybe I can find some time to do that now that I'm quarantined at home. One pinball project at a time. 
Quoted from toddtuckey:Change ALL of the capacitors on that sound board...they are 30 years old and drying out more every day!
My Monday Night Football has weird sounds that are different from the standard sounds I’ve heard in videos.
Also it says “factory altered” didn’t know if that had something to do with it.
The HUGE 18000uf capacitor is definitely bad. Nobody seems to have it in stock. Any suggestions?
Quoted from chubtoad13:Does anyone know where I can get these dome covers? It looks like Marco has some. I don’t see the clear ones though[quoted image]
I don't know why, but the octagonal domes are really hard to find. When I bought my JP, it didn't have any domes on top, so I ended up having to go with the round ones after a long unproductive search.
Found these on ebay: ebay.com link: Data East Pair of Clear Pinball Light Domes Jurassic Park pinball parts
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I don't know why, but the octagonal domes are really hard to find. When I bought my JP, it didn't have any domes on top, so I ended up having to go with the round ones after a long unproductive search.
Found these on ebay: ebay.com link » Data East Pair Of Clear Pinball Light Domes Jurassic Park Pinball Parts
You can not buy them... I tried... blocked message comes up.
Quoted from vec-tor:You can not buy them... I tried... blocked message comes up.
Everywhere I look they are "out of stock" or "discontinued".
Thanks! They have green and red ones at Marco. Blue would be cool for these too, but those are out of stock as well.
Worst case I can fix the one I have. It’s not too bad. I would replace if possible though
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Everywhere I look they are "out of stock" or "discontinued".
Yea... I know... and it sucks.
If I had the funds I would reproduce them...
The guy in Germany has made new molds for discontinued
Williams inserts... That is good, the bad is that the molds have
all the punch out pin holes in the center of the plastic shapes...
it is very distracting to see. 
Åkarp
Quoted from rlbohon3:I added a spotlight on the top of each sling to light up the center playfield. Using a Comet Opmax purple bulb really lights up the artwork in the playfield. I also added some additional lights behind the “turtles” box to help light up the back end of the playfield, used dual flex bulbs behind the center stand up targets to throw out a little more light, added a spotlight behind the turtle on the left to light up the back corner, added a red trough light, and added bulbs under some inserts under the ramps that never had lamps. The lights really made a big difference and add to the enjoyment of the game, IMO.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]</blockquoNice looking Turtles!! I kinda like that game! I own TFTC and Tommy myself!
I have heard some serious shit about Turtles, and did not know what to think of it until i played it in 2019 at a local arcade! Way better than some haters say!!
Quoted from Antoshka:Nice looking Turtles!! I kinda like that game! I own TFTC and Tommy myself!
I have heard some serious shit about Turtles, and did not know what to think of it until i played it in 2019 at a local arcade! Way better than some haters say!!
I really like TFTC and Tommy as well. Nice games! Thanks for the comments on my TMNT. It was my first game, given to my wife and I from her aunt when we didn't really care one way or another about pinball. It was in storage for years and had a lot of problems to be dealt with. After a friend of mine did some serious work to fix and improve a ton of stuff on that game, I was totally hooked and got into improving it some more. Then went on to several other games (for myself and other friends). TMNT is the only Data East game I have so far, but I've sometimes wondered what would be my next pick if I had the funds and if it were available. Tommy and Star Wars would be high on the list. I've never seen or played a Checkpoint yet, but based on theme alone, I'd want one.
I'm sure I'm biased since my TMNT was my first, it was a family given game, and it's had a number of things done to it to make it play to my liking, but I still really like this game. It does seem to get hated on a bit too much, IMO. Rule set isn't real deep but it's just a fun game to play. It's definitely one to go play to mix things up after playing other games.
Piershil
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:My Monday Night Football has weird sounds that are different from the standard sounds I’ve heard in videos.
Also it says “factory altered” didn’t know if that had something to do with it.
The HUGE 18000uf capacitor is definitely bad. Nobody seems to have it in stock. Any suggestions?
Factory alterd means that you have changed some settings in the menu.
Did you try GPE for the big capacitor?
Part Number CEA-18000uF-25V-RMD
Quoted from durgee7:I decided to play around with the volume knob and noticed big differences when going to higher or lower volume.
I noticed that at about 25seconds in your vid there is a "cutting out" which looks to me like a classic dirty poteniometer (i.e. the electronic volume control). Here is a quick and easy thing you can try. With the pin off, cycle (rotate back and forth to the extreme) the volume knob 10-15 times, and a few extras short cycles over that setting where the cracking occurred at low volume in the vid. This sometimes works to dislodge the crud on the internal wiper that is the source of the cutout, and better yet, it is free. Don't forget to leave the volume at the low end when you turn the pin back on. You can also cycle with the pin on at lower volume settings.
Quoted from PinWoofer:I noticed that at about 25seconds in your vid there is a "cutting out" which looks to me like a classic dirty poteniometer (i.e. the electronic volume control). Here is a quick and easy thing you can try. With the pin off, cycle (rotate back and forth to the extreme) the volume knob 10-15 times, and a few extras short cycles over that setting where the cracking occurred at low volume in the vid. This sometimes works to dislodge the crud on the internal wiper that is the source of the cutout, and better yet, it is free. Don't forget to leave the volume at the low end when you turn the pin back on. You can also cycle with the pin on at lower volume settings.
Thanks, PinWoofer! I'll give it a shot tomorrow afternoon.
Quoted from PinWoofer:I noticed that at about 25seconds in your vid there is a "cutting out" which looks to me like a classic dirty poteniometer (i.e. the electronic volume control). Here is a quick and easy thing you can try. With the pin off, cycle (rotate back and forth to the extreme) the volume knob 10-15 times, and a few extras short cycles over that setting where the cracking occurred at low volume in the vid. This sometimes works to dislodge the crud on the internal wiper that is the source of the cutout, and better yet, it is free. Don't forget to leave the volume at the low end when you turn the pin back on. You can also cycle with the pin on at lower volume settings.
It worked! It freakin' worked! Volume control is now smooth with no loss of sound. I'm still planning to purchase the 9 different caps (25 total quantity) to replace on the sound board. Thanks for the help!
I need a little help help from those in the know!
I just unpacked my new to me Hook. It plays well until you hit the Skull hole, once it drops in there, it goes dark with “Slam Tilt” on the display. Game over ball kicks out to the drain and you can start over. Playing it a while longer, making sure not to hit that hole and somewhere in the upper play field it will get a skull and crossbones and tilt, goes to next ball. Any ideas what the issue may on this thing? It seems weird that it goes to 2 different "tilt" modes. I cant find a slam switch under the play field like with some EM games, the one on the coin door is wide open, and I cant find another. But the "slam tilt" is every time it drops in the skull hole. I can't seem to find anything common about what creates the other tilt message.
Quoted from Troostr:I need a little help help from those in the know!
I just unpacked my new to me Hook. It plays well until you hit the Skull hole, once it drops in there, it goes dark with “Slam Tilt” on the display. Game over ball kicks out to the drain and you can start over. Playing it a while longer, making sure not to hit that hole and somewhere in the upper play field it will get a skull and crossbones and tilt, goes to next ball. Any ideas what the issue may on this thing? It seems weird that it goes to 2 different "tilt" modes. I cant find a slam switch under the play field like with some EM games, the one on the coin door is wide open, and I cant find another. But the "slam tilt" is every time it drops in the skull hole. I can't seem to find anything common about what creates the other tilt message.
switch matrix issue on the white/violet string, row 7. Could be a diode on sw 47. If not its something on the board. drop the ball into the hole and check your sw levels, its probably firing the whole row
Quoted from Jr99svt:switch matrix issue on the white/violet string, row 7. Could be a diode on sw 47. If not its something on the board. drop the ball into the hole and check your sw levels, its probably firing the whole row
Could you possibly restate that in Newbie words? I can work through an EM game with my eyes shut, but sometimes I'm lacking in terminology on these newer games.
What and where is the white/violet string row 7? which sw is 47? I don't have any kind of schematics on this thing, but I'm sure I can find it online.
Thanks for the reply!
Quoted from Troostr:Could you possibly restate that in Newbie words? I can work through an EM game with my eyes shut, but sometimes I'm lacking in terminology on these newer games.
What and where is the white/violet string row 7? which sw is 47? I don't have any kind of schematics on this thing, but I'm sure I can find it online.
Thanks for the reply!
Manual with switch matrix & schematics is on IPDB: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1233
Tells how to put machine in Diagnostics mode to test all your switches too.
Quoted from Timerider:Manual with switch matrix & schematics is on IPDB: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1233
Tells how to put machine in Diagnostics mode to test all your switches too.
Ding,ding,ding.
For the ease of those graciously helping me, here is the link to the hook club thread I started on this topic as well
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/40#post-5555319
I ran sw tests and it seems like something is wired wrong. It does have new looking Rottendog mpu, and another board.
Thanks
Hello people of the club, I am looking for the following pieces for my service secret and star trek. Of the precise secret service both plastics of the slighshot, the complete mechanism of the up post, ramp, capilotio and plastic of the right corner, see images. and from the precise stark trek the left side of the ramp (it is metal and has a plastic) see image. Thank you
IMG-20200212-WA0043 (resized).jpgIMG-20200212-WA0048 (resized).jpgIMG-20200212-WA0049 (resized).jpgIMG-20200212-WA0050 (resized).jpgIMG_20200318_101431 (resized).jpgIMG_20200318_101435 (resized).jpgIMG_20200326_211956 (resized).jpgIMG_20200326_212020 (resized).jpgIMG_20200326_212036 (resized).jpgQuoted from MJW:Working X pin XPin dmd4096 rev a for sale. Fits many games. Great for a spare. Pm me if interested. Looks to be orange with filter installed.
Will this fit my data East Star Trek? PM sent..
Quoted from pacman11:Will this fit my data East Star Trek?
It will not. That is for the 128x32 games such as Demolition Man, DE JP, and DE SW.
DE Star Trek, DE Hook, DE Checkpoint, DE Batman, and DE TMNT are the only games that share the 128x16 DMD.
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