This sounds really REALLY cool actually! Would love to follow that project!

Chris

Did a test fit last night, might break out the water slide paper and see how that looks when I get off work.

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Not bad, shown with waterslide.

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That looks nice. It really spiffs up the back glass.

Hi, I'm hoping someone here can help me with a problem I'm having on my Monday Night Football. I bought the game non working and replaced the factory power supply and CPU with Rotten dog versions. I then noticed that my center and right pop bumpers were not firing which was likely due to blown fuses which i assume were from before i purchased the game. When diagnosing them though i was jumping wires from the left bumper which was working at the time to the center bumper and i somehow caused the left bumper to stay activated and blow that fuse too. I have since replaced all 3 fuses for the individual bumper control wires and now each time i turn the game on all 3 bumper are activated until i blow the F5 fuse in the power supply. Any ideas on where to check or where my problem might be. I'm still a novice with SS games so it could very easily be something I've done stupidly. Thank you in advance for all ideas and suggestions.

If you jumped a wire from pop bumper #1 to pop #3 and you did not disconnect #3 before you jumped it then you have blown a transistor on the MPU most likely.

Ask me how I know. I sent my MPU out to a pro for repair. It was money well spent.

Well that's basically what i did and it looks like i got similar results. The worst part is, is that it looks like all the the switched solenoid transistors have been shorted. I'm sure this will be an expensive mistake. Thanks for the reply.

I sent you a PM. Send a PM to Borygard and tell him what you have. I got my Robocop board fixed and working 100% for around $160-$180 as I recall.

Does he fix soundboards too? My Torpedo Alley soundboard is fried (right above the batteries that leaked for many years), and I’d like to get my checkpoint MPU fixed too

Thank you after Christmas i may send my original board there to see if he can fix the battery corrosion which is why i switched to the Rotten Dog in the first place. I did have a tech come out yesterday and he was able to replace the three fet's i shorted on the rotten dog board at my house so i was very lucky. Glad to have the game playing again.

Do you have any pictures of the board that shows how extensive the corrosion is? On those boards I usually have to replace the CPU socket and CPU and a few other parts along with fixing a few traces.

Some boards just aren't worth the effort if there is too much corrosion unless there is no other option.

Here’s mine. Just a little bit of corrosion.
Soundboard looks slightly better than this. It got hit with all the outgassing of the batteries

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Yikes that is a lot of work right there. Not sure if it would be worth the time unless you have nothing better to do.

The MPU is toast, but I don’t have a pic of the soundboard at the moment

Thanks to this group, I was able to swap my TMNT mpu battery holder with Frank's Lithium battery upgrade. Thanks, Guys!!!
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I'll call it a Festivus miracle! Checkpoint ramps are in the final tuning stage.

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Looks incredible Jody

My Robocop just started with runaway scoring. I don't even get to shoot the ball and the display starts rolling up the scores.

What has gone bad? What so I need to fix? Or where do I need to look? Is it s switch? Or something on a board?

Thanks.

Stuck switch. Got into test mode and should see which switch number is stuck on

Thanks. now on tomorrow's project list.

Great work Cody!! Look forward to seeing it and test fitting it soon!!

IIRC, I had a similar issue on my TMNT and it ended up having to do with the spinner parking itself upside down, triggering the switch. A little tweaking fixed it.

Thank you,

Test mode showed one of my stand up targets had a switch close up on me. Fixed.

And I learned how to do the switch test.. All good now.

I have another question so I'll hit while the hitting is good.

In the Robocop manual, there are several rules. There are "Easy Rules", "Factory Rules", Hard Rules", "Novelty Rules", "5 Ball Rules", and "Add-a-Ball Rules". But there is nothing in the Robocop manual that defines the rules or tells you what they are. Is there a publication that Data East produced that tells what these rules are? For example, I would like to know the difference between Easy Rule and Hard Rules. Does anybody know where that kind of info can be located?

Thanks

Look in the manual at page 11 and 12.
There are some notations about this.

Jody, CP ramp looks great! Can't wait to see it in person! I'm sure a lot of Checkpoint owners will be appreciative of all your efforts!!

Nick

There are some notations. I agree. But I do not see any where where Ad 06 "Easy Rules" are defined. What kind of play action am I going to experience if I set to "easy rules"? Same for Ad 07; What makes up "Factory Rules? And AD 08; What are part of the "hard rules?

Ad 09 Novelty Rules are defined.

Ad 10 5-Ball play rules are defined

However, there is nothing saying what to expect for 3-Ball rules. Do the pop bumpers score more in 3-Ball play, for example? It does not say.

I am set on Factory Rules. What can I expect if I swap to Hard Rules? All of my classic Stern manuals tell all. My DE Robocop manual make think Gary Stern tried to economize on the instructions.

What about E Ad 45 Standup Sequence Easy setting. What is that supposed to mean? Easy vs. Hard. What is the difference?

What about E Ad 46 Spinner Lamp EASY setting WTF is the manual talking about?

Anybody?

More information on page 16...

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Just picked up my first DE title - The Simpson’s!
Fun and enjoyable game to say the least.
Looking to tidy her up and have noticed how difficult it is to find certain parts for this machine.
Looking specifically for a Main Ramp if any knows where to find one / has a good condition one they would like to sell feel free to let me know.
Cheers

Hey Guys,

Has anyone here added spotlights to their Data East playfield? I'm trying to research a good spotlight kit for my TMNT pin. Comet has some nice kits with single and double options. Do you guys have any recommendations for this particular pin? My initial thought is adding one spotlight at the top of each pop bumper where both ramps attach, and have them point towards middle of playfield, either at all 4 turtles, and/or the shredder head. I know this is all a matter of opinion, but it's nice to know what you all have tried out so far.

Thanks!

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I am looking for a good used working data east power supply if anyone has one

Thanks

I've added a spotlight above each sling on my LAH. Just keep them low or you'll get reflection off the score displays (less a big deal on alphanumeric). I use pinball life spot kits cause they're good and cheap.

https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-accent-spotlight-assembly.html

I added two spotlights to my DESW - on the top nut of each sling.

Hi thanks for the reply ,my is in getting fixed right now just looking for a spare data east power supply for a GNR

Thanks

Ditto for Tommy. One such setup on each side.

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nice check point fs

Machine - For Sale

Checkpoint Archived

Fully restored (full original status) - “Check point extremely nice condition! Look at pics. Has new crystal clear ramp.fun fast Porsche theme game-armor is original paint and in fantastic condition. Original “ DE “fl...”

2020-03-14

Morrisville, PA

freddy

3,500

Archived after: 61 days

Viewed: 607 times

Status: Not sold: Decided to keep game

Thanks, Guys! Pinball life does have reasonable prices for the spotlights. Now it's just a matter of ordering the right 555 bulb, whether plain white LED, or use different colors.

I added a spotlight on the top of each sling to light up the center playfield. Using a Comet Opmax purple bulb really lights up the artwork in the playfield. I also added some additional lights behind the “turtles” box to help light up the back end of the playfield, used dual flex bulbs behind the center stand up targets to throw out a little more light, added a spotlight behind the turtle on the left to light up the back corner, added a red trough light, and added bulbs under some inserts under the ramps that never had lamps. The lights really made a big difference and add to the enjoyment of the game, IMO.
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That is a nice looking playfield! The purple spotlights look sharp. Thanks for all the info

Guys, I have another newbish post, but I've done a little homework. Anyone here have cracks and missing pieces in their Data East ramp(s). I inherited a TMNT with all that stuff, and I know it's common. Since there are no ramp replacement options, I decided to buy SCI GRIP 3 and the associated applicator bottle, to reinforces cracks by capillary action (based on a 4-yr-old thread posted here in pinside). As for the small missing pieces at the top of ball shooter lane/ramp, I'm not sure if Sci Grip 3 is an option unless I trace the opening and cut a piece of plastic with same or similar thickess and properties. Have you guys had any success with these methods? If not, any recommendations for repair? It looks like previous owners slathered the ramp with a crap ton of adhesive for that thin metal plate.

Also, I'm thinking of making thin metal protectors for the entrance ramps at top left of playfield. I contacted Cliffy a while back but he was very busy. At the very least, I can send him dimensions of those entrance areas.

As always, I appreciate all of your feedback!

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Are you taking pictures of your monitor?

Yeah, the pics are on a usb. I was trying to post during break, using my phone. I don't like using work internet. Sorry about the crappy picture quality. I could always repost.

Weld-On #3 is an option for small cracks only. It is water thin and has no filling properties. For some of the small cracks the best way stop the crak first by drilling a small hole in front of the crack travel, this will stop the continuation of the cracking. Then you can try and use the #3 to fill the hairline crack, whatever you do, don't touch it when the weld-on #3 is still wet

For smaller holes you can use Weldon #16 which is a thicker version of Weld-on #3, is will fill very small holes but be careful as it is still a runny material

You can also try using UV curing adhesives, I have had success using these for small voids. You just have to take your time and build it up slowly

That's what I'm talking about! Excellent feedback! Thank you

I am working on making a new repro TMNT ramp...its a complicated project, but I think I can pull it off.

You can do it! Please keep us posted.

Quick question... are the pin headers size .156 on CN9 on the power supply board? My board has had the header removed and wires soldered in. I would like to put the header and connector back in. I also have a couple burned leads on CN1. Anyone have the part number for the board portion of CN1.

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Yes 156 is correct and here is part for cn1
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-09068-00

Thanks!