I was playing a 2hr session on my LAH last night, and toward the end the right flipper finger grew weak and wouldn't hold anymore, e.g. when the middle chute returned the ball to the right flipper that I was holding up, it would drop down from the impact of the ball.

Any ideas?

This was a GI connector on my Monday Night Football.

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Check the fuse clips on the Flipper Board (in the cabinet) and the Playfield Power Board (in the back box, with the big white resistors).
Clean the mech of the flipper.

Note: IDC connectors max current is 2.5 amps. It was a bad idea on Data Easts side to use them...
I experimented with other brands that had a higher current rating.
Technically, the PCB should have had "doubled-up" connectors for
the G.I. lighting; like what Williams did on their WPC system.
Even then, it was not a fail safe system.

Which is why LEDs are a must.

I just got a Secret Service a few weeks ago, change out the lamps was the very first thing done.

Could the fuses affect ONE side only?

But anyway, will check everything on the weekend including coil stops and EOS switches.

Joining with a lovely, mint-looking Torpedo Alley!

Yes, it could.
Mainly the flipper board fuses.
Each flipper is fused seperately.

Ah, got it. Thanks! I‘ll look into that.

So switching that J5 connector to molex would help? What's weird is the connector for CN8 still looks good.

I'm not really a fan of leds; I did switch all the GIs on the playfield and backbox to 47s when I first got the pin.

Awesome dude have any pictures?

Found the culprit: Fuses are fine, but coil stops are busted.

Very fun game but a bit easy. I can roll it fairly often. I haven't tinkered yet, but faster slings and a jacking the back legs might help difficulty. I wonder if lightning flips would work, too. The lane change bonus at the back scores way too high IMO and breaks the game. Doesn't seem to be enough reward for sinking the ships(?). Still, I have a fairly large collection and this one looks, sounds and feels FUN after bashing my head against the other brutal games in my collection! Plus, it's my 8-year old's fave to play

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Remember to protect your game for spontanious fire!
Put in fuses before the rectifiers in the back box.
Or you can use a Bridge Board.
More info, goto my website http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image (top left image).

Peter

The translite of that game is incredible

thanks for the tip!

it IS jaw-dropping, is it not?

Thanks for this info. You recommend this board in home use games? I have had power issues in my Tommy previously. I assume he sells them? Thanks for the help.

I recommend this board for all games with no fuses before the rectifiers.
Even in home use, if you start smelling something you are too late and the damage is done.
When a bridge rectifier goed bad and shorts this is the result of the wire loom....

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So, changed the coil stops, everything‘s back to normal. And boy where the busted! No wonder the flippers were acting all wonky!!!

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A hammer and a pining tool and you would be all set.

Just throwing it out there, but I am hoping to make replacement ramps soon for TMNT and Checkpoint. If anyone would like to be put on the interest list for either of these, please send me a PM and I will be sure to add you. As always, no money is due until the ramp is ready to ship. Also, if someone has a broken TMNT ramp they would like to donate, a new TMNT ramp will be provided free of charge to the donor. Thanks!

I've had the time machine for 20+yrs and couple of secret service's (getting another one soon) and just finished a partial resto on a torpedo alley. Fun machine!

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WOW, I see a Saratoga Pinball Show card in there!!

I've been spending a ton of time bringing my Torpedo Alley back from the dead. The game is an absolute WRECK from Florida, but TA deserves the restoration. FANTASTIC game, and the best light show of any 80's game by far. I mean KEITH ELWIN owns one, how much more proof do you need?

Currently the game boots, has a rottendog MPU, but none of the cabinet switches/buttons register at all, thus I cannot interact with the game at all. Solenoids are kicking locked balls out and playfield switches are registering. I traced the green wires off the coin door and they have continuity all the way back to the board. I switched in a different coin door (Checkpoint was close enough) and the coin rejects light up but still no buttons will work. What should I look into next?

Another awesome TA! Definitely adjust that bad boy up! It shouldn't be that easy. Needs to be brutally fast. Also did you or the previous owner light the star posts and color match the rubbers?? That's some hardcore color matching going on...

Had to start over and take playfield down to bare bones. All new pin life l.e.d.s. cleaned a ton of rattle can blue over spray off everything. Mine also was a wreck but, worth saving. I swapped mpu for one I kept out a secret s. Built new back box it was full of sheet rock screws and 5 coats of latex I think.
At one time I remember having cn13 and 14 swapped. But, might be inside the connector pins sometimes they break the springy part off or feel like it's pushing on hard but still not making contact on board pin.

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Is there a Stern general thread similar to this? Thanks.

This maybe? For the classic Sterns when it was Stern Electronics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/price-check-1980-sterns-quicksilver-stargazer-seawitch/page/51#post-5332377

Thanks, guess I can start one.

Laser War
MNF (resently added)
& BTTF

Makes up 2/3's of my collection

....pics coming soon

p.s. Data East fan boy all the way

? The other 1-and-a-half machine in your collection must be Hercules.

Need to update it. AC/DC pro and Elvis. Pretty well have 2 DE, 2 Ballys, 2 Williams and 2 Stern. Thanks.

Started a full shop on my time machine this weekend. Took apart the chime box so I could run the chimes through the tumbler and replace the coil sleeves. I found that I only had 2 of 3 of the pins that make contact with the chimes. Anyone know if these are available, or what the correct terminology is?

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http://www.pbresource.com/bells.html#chime

GTB-A1487+ $3.40ea

Awesome, thanks!!

Another DE in the line up, sing again!

Need to do a board search for the fellow who does the mask decals.. or make my own.

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Hey Guys,

I just purchased a new set of plastics for my Data East TMNT, mainly for that Michelangelo triangular piece near the pop bumpers. Before I swap out plastics, does anyone know if there are any protective plastics/Cliffy's that could prevent damaging my new plastic?

Here's a pic of the old plastic.

Thanks!

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You could buy a small sheet of .030 Lexan/polycarbonate and make your own plastic protector if you cannot locate one already made.

ebay.com link: LEXAN SHEET POLYCARBONATE CLEAR 030 x 24 x 12

You can use the round lexan washers also.

I have only 3 pinball, all data east: tales from the crypt, jurassic park and lethal weapon 3

I did a decal a few months ago. Works great

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/phantom-of-the-opera-club-owners-and-fans-welcome/page/6

What paper did you use? I have some water slide in stock I was thinking about trying.

Thanks to cottonm4 and drummermike for the feedback on using plastic protector or washers. Do you guys recommend using oversized washers/protectors that go slightly beyond edge of the playfield plastic in need of protection? I guess the ball would hit the protection edge first, preventing edge contact with ball? I should look at my Stern DP Pro for ideas. I'm guessing the additional layer of plastic also stiffens the existing playfied plastic.

If the plastic is one that gets much ball impact I like to make my protector a little oversized so it absorbs the hit.

"Only"? Sounds like a solid lineup to me!

Go oversize on the washers.

This sounds really odd, but I'm thinking about building a pin and the theme will be.. Data East.

It could have ramps and shots from various DE games along with various game call outs. Hit the pop bumpers? Einstein bonus building. Hit a trapdoor? Get the voice from Phantom of the Opera. Shoot the ramp 8 times to light "DATA EAST" Choose a sound track from 1 of 6 DE games. And so on.

I'm still stirring the concept in my head, though.