(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club


By PinballManiac40

5 years ago



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  • 1,474 posts
  • 334 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by PinballManiac40
  • Topic is favorited by 162 Pinsiders

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“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 378 votes
    59%
  • I have one or more. 179 votes
    28%
  • Considering buying one or more. 57 votes
    9%
  • No, never 32 votes
    5%

(Multiple choice - 646 votes by 628 Pinsiders)

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There are 1474 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 30.
#1401 44 days ago

I have run into it before many times. Not going find just a cap, I just replace the whole fuse holder. It's a pain but doable

Quoted from moonraker:

I want to find a fuse cap to fit right into power supply hole, I don’t want to open up the power supply and hack a holder in, nothings broken. Just need to find one that fits

#1402 43 days ago

Yeah would
Have to take apart the power supply then. I’ll look into it more thanks

#1403 43 days ago

Posted on the LW thread but figure this one might get more action:

The Kick back coil on my LW3 started smoking a few months ago and I haven't had a chance to look into it until now.
At first inspection the plunger wouldn't budge at all. After taking it apart, it looks like the plastic section of the plunger melted to the inside of the sleeve. I threw the MM on and it measured 1.7ohm. This means it's cooked right?
Anyone ideas what might have caused this?
Now in regards to replacing this thing... My coil says AE-23-800-05 on it. "-05" isn't noted in my manual, and even so, -05 on the Marco site looks completely different...
Can anyone suggest an appropriate coil to replace this?
Thanks!

#1404 43 days ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Posted on the LW thread but figure this one might get more action:
The Kick back coil on my LW3 started smoking a few months ago and I haven't had a chance to look into it until now.
At first inspection the plunger wouldn't budge at all. After taking it apart, it looks like the plastic section of the plunger melted to the inside of the sleeve. I threw the MM on and it measured 1.7ohm. This means it's cooked right?
Anyone ideas what might have caused this?
Now in regards to replacing this thing... My coil says AE-23-800-05 on it. "-05" isn't noted in my manual, and even so, -05 on the Marco site looks completely different...
Can anyone suggest an appropriate coil to replace this?
Thanks!

Separate repair threads are always best with links pointing toward them in the clubs. It is very tough trying to find repair solutions within a general club thread.

Your coil is cooked because you cannot get it apart, and yes, the resistance of the coil drops when the coil shorts out. The transistor on the MPU that drives it to fire, would be the cause, so it will need to be replaced.

AE-23-800-05 Replacement parts don't always look like the originals, true for anything remade. It is important to get the correct part number coil. As you can see, Marco has a note that it can be substituted with AE-23-800." Sometimes the -05 is designation that a diode is attached. Make sure you look at the game to know if the diode is needed.

#1405 43 days ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Posted on the LW thread but figure this one might get more action:
The Kick back coil on my LW3 started smoking a few months ago and I haven't had a chance to look into it until now.
At first inspection the plunger wouldn't budge at all. After taking it apart, it looks like the plastic section of the plunger melted to the inside of the sleeve. I threw the MM on and it measured 1.7ohm. This means it's cooked right?
Anyone ideas what might have caused this?
Now in regards to replacing this thing... My coil says AE-23-800-05 on it. "-05" isn't noted in my manual, and even so, -05 on the Marco site looks completely different...
Can anyone suggest an appropriate coil to replace this?
Thanks!

Look at the Q transistor on the PPS board, they tend to fail and lock the coil on.

#1406 40 days ago

Thanks for the feedback! Can you help me located the PPS board?
Not sure if that was one of the boards that the Rottendog replaced when the previous owner installed it.

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#1407 40 days ago

It’s the one with the big rectangular white things (resistors)

#1408 40 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

It’s the one with the big rectangular white things (resistors)

PPB (Playfield Power Board)

Sorry, having senior moment.

There is 5 transistor in the middle board, slightly to the left side, one is for the lazer kick. You might even be able to see it melted, you could on mine. Easy to check with meter, check the schematic to determine which is the correct one for testing.

#1409 39 days ago

Just picked up a sweet complete Batman playfield.

This was described as having bad art and only good for parts. Expected it to be completely blown out but it has factory mylar!

DATA BEAST!
20191011_114931 (resized).jpg

#1410 33 days ago

I posted asking for some help in the Rocky and Bullwinkle thread but I thought I'd ask here as well. Here is what I typed in the other thread:

I am having a couple of issues with my R&B. Many times throughout a game (not all the time), hitting my left flipper trips the center hat target and the right flipper activates the lower hat target. Causing hundreds of “wrong hat” callouts.

My lion is no longer lifting up on hat trick. It was fully working, then seemed partially working, now not at all.
I have continuity at both sides of the molex set coming from the coil. Coil went bad ? It still moves freely by hand.
oh yeah, also worth mentioning. My right flipper lacks strength at some points in the game. Almost always when the ball comes out of the left scoop/vuk, if I try to hammer the ball with the right flipper it only goes up half way and barely projects the ball. In one other instance (IIRC), if it comes around the orbit, counterclockwise to the right flipper, it doesn't fire with authority.

If I cradle the ball, I can hit both ramps from the right flipper.

thanks ahead of tiem for any insight.

#1411 33 days ago

Just purchased my 7th Data East Pinball (Star Trek). Game Room getting overrun by Data East.

Guns N Roses, Jurassic Park, Lethal Weapon 3, Tales from the Crypt, WWF Royal Rumble, The Simpsons, and Star Trek now.

Looking for Secret Service and Star Wars next.

#1412 33 days ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

I posted asking for some help in the Rocky and Bullwinkle thread but I thought I'd ask here as well. Here is what I typed in the other thread:
I am having a couple of issues with my R&B. Many times throughout a game (not all the time), hitting my left flipper trips the center hat target and the right flipper activates the lower hat target. Causing hundreds of “wrong hat” callouts.
My lion is no longer lifting up on hat trick. It was fully working, then seemed partially working, now not at all.
I have continuity at both sides of the molex set coming from the coil. Coil went bad ? It still moves freely by hand.
oh yeah, also worth mentioning. My right flipper lacks strength at some points in the game. Almost always when the ball comes out of the left scoop/vuk, if I try to hammer the ball with the right flipper it only goes up half way and barely projects the ball. In one other instance (IIRC), if it comes around the orbit, counterclockwise to the right flipper, it doesn't fire with authority.
If I cradle the ball, I can hit both ramps from the right flipper.
thanks ahead of tiem for any insight.

Best to start a repair thread and link it in the 2 clubs. Repairs get pretty deep sometimes and more people tend to help out more as they are easier to find as a separate thread.

#1413 33 days ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Just purchased my 7th Data East Pinball (Star Trek). Game Room getting overrun by Data East.
Guns N Roses, Jurassic Park, Lethal Weapon 3, Tales from the Crypt, WWF Royal Rumble, The Simpsons, and Star Trek now.
Looking for Secret Service and Star Wars next.

Just picked up Secret Service, awesome fun.

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#1414 33 days ago

Supper Spinner!

#1415 30 days ago

Damn you, Data East. Why can't I quit you!?

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#1416 30 days ago
Quoted from RatShack:

Just picked up a sweet complete Batman playfield.
This was described as having bad art and only good for parts. Expected it to be completely blown out but it has factory mylar!
DATA BEAST!
[quoted image]

I've been on the lookout for a restorable candidate for my Batman for a while. How did this slip through my grubby paws?

#1418 28 days ago

am currently working on a flipper board for Rocky and Bullwinkle. First thing I did was check the tip 36 and tip32, because I has fusus blown on the board. Replaced them.
Power on the game and all is good till I press the flipper buttons, then high voltage fuse blows and shorts out both transistors.
So, figure it might be the two scr, replace them, then the two tip's again.
Same thing, blows fuses and shorts the tips out as soon as the buttons are pressed
All the smaller pre drivers seems to test good with meter and tried another board and flippers work. And it happens on both flippers
What else on that flipper board could I be missing?
Any help would be appreciated.

Also, I have never seen this board work, came to me in this state

#1419 27 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

am currently working on a flipper board for Rocky and Bullwinkle. First thing I did was check the tip 36 and tip32, because I has fusus blown on the board. Replaced them.
Power on the game and all is good till I press the flipper buttons, then high voltage fuse blows and shorts out both transistors.
So, figure it might be the two scr, replace them, then the two tip's again.
Same thing, blows fuses and shorts the tips out as soon as the buttons are pressed
All the smaller pre drivers seems to test good with meter and tried another board and flippers work. And it happens on both flippers
What else on that flipper board could I be missing?
Any help would be appreciated.
Also, I have never seen this board work, came to me in this state

Are you sure the wiring is correct at the flipper coils?
Did you check the resistance of the coils?

#1420 27 days ago

Yes, put a flipper board from another game and flippers work fine.
That's why I'm stumped.

#1421 26 days ago

Are both board numbers the same?
Like 520-5033-00 or 520-5076-00...

#1422 26 days ago

Yes they are

#1423 26 days ago

Did you check the diode across the output of the Tip36 to see if it's shorted? I'd replace the diodes around that area, anyway they might be breaking down under load..

Sounds like you have a short between the TIP36 and the fuse...

Which fuses and which Tip's blow out. both sides ,or just one side?

#1424 26 days ago

I did check the diodes, but maybe your right to just replace them for good measure.
It blow the high voltage fuses, not the hold.
And both the tip 36c and tip32, on both flippers.
Would that still sound like a short between the fuse and tip 36c?

#1425 26 days ago

Wow sounds like Boris and Natasha are pulling one on you somehow. That's really strange for both sides (flippers) to be shorting out like that and a new board works.

Were both flipper channels shorted out originally? Any chance only one channel was originally out and you replaced them all while you were at it?
Is there any chance you have the legs on the TIP's crossed? On transistors I ordered in the past, I have seen some manufactures may use the same case type but have the legs in a different order.

#1426 26 days ago

I have a Data East Batman , does anyone
Make anything for this game ?
Nos parts ? I need help with this Thanks

#1427 26 days ago
Quoted from RYSR:

Wow sounds like Boris and Natasha are pulling one on you somehow. That's really strange for both sides (flippers) to be shorting out like that and a new board works.
Were both flipper channels shorted out originally? Any chance only one channel was originally out and you replaced them all while you were at it?
Is there any chance you have the legs on the TIP's crossed? On transistors I ordered in the past, I have seen some manufactures may use the same case type but have the legs in a different order.

Game came to me without a flipper board, I put one I acquired in after replacing the blown transistors.
Then tried another board, to eliminate something wrong elsewhere in the game. So I know it is isolated to this particular flipper board.
As far as reversed tips, I have used tip36 from this batch is other things and all has been fine. I am totally baffled. I might just rebuild the whole board for $15 in parts.

#1428 25 days ago

Batman Owner’s ???

Did this game come with a Shaker ?
On the left side of cabinet there’s 4 holes
About the size of a shaker, three plugs going to nothing ?
Never seen a Shaker mounted on the side ?

Thanks

#1429 25 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

Game came to me without a flipper board, I put one I acquired in after replacing the blown transistors.
Then tried another board, to eliminate something wrong elsewhere in the game. So I know it is isolated to this particular flipper board.
As far as reversed tips, I have used tip36 from this batch is other things and all has been fine. I am totally baffled. I might just rebuild the whole board for $15 in parts.

Are the two CD4093 chips the right ones?
Those chips are the things that drive the transistors.
The thyristors are only for the low power (8V) hold voltage.

#1430 25 days ago

They both say 4093. Could they be shorted?

#1431 25 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

I have a Data East Batman , does anyone
Make anything for this game ?
Nos parts ? I need help with this Thanks

Plastic sets are out there. I *believe* Mad Amusements did the ramps at one time - there was an issue of people not getting their items.

Decent playfields are next to impossible. CPR is looking for a good donor - not sure if anyone stepped up to the plate on that one.

#1432 25 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

Batman Owner’s ???
Did this game come with a Shaker ?
On the left side of cabinet there’s 4 holes
About the size of a shaker, three plugs going to nothing ?
Never seen a Shaker mounted on the side ?
Thanks

No shaker...

#1433 25 days ago

Having a snafu issue with my D.E. Batman.

In the backbox, Any GI that is lower than Batman's cowl on the backglass is out. Do I have a broken ground trace somewhere there?

#1434 25 days ago
Quoted from Schusler:

Having a snafu issue with my D.E. Batman.
In the backbox, Any GI that is lower than Batman's cowl on the backglass is out. Do I have a broken ground trace somewhere there?

Check the pins/connectors on the PPS board, DE notorious for GI problems there.

#1435 25 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Check the pins/connectors on the PPS board, DE notorious for GI problems there.

Will do...

Any owners have a Pinscore power supply installed their machine? Specifically the early dmd era of pins... Need a certain pic of a questionable area.

#1436 25 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

They both say 4093. Could they be shorted?

It could be.
Which board do you have?
The 520-5033-00 or 520-5070-00?
What happens with the led's on the board?

First check the two diodes D2 and D7 (easy test).
If you know for sure the transistors (Q1-2-3-4 and Q8-9-10-11) are good, the IC's are the only thing remaining.

Peter

#1437 25 days ago

I am having a Simpsons back box light issue. As you can see from the picture the right side lights do not work. The flashers on that side do work though. I checked all connectors and all see ok. Cannot see to find and bad fuses either. I have a manual but am not that versed in pinball repair. Any help would be greatly appreciated

20191027_194055 (resized).jpg
#1438 25 days ago
Quoted from Schusler:

Plastic sets are out there. I *believe* Mad Amusements did the ramps at one time - there was an issue of people not getting their items.
Decent playfields are next to impossible. CPR is looking for a good donor - not sure if anyone stepped up to the plate on that one.

I have one getting restored, I would lend it out to CPR no problem
I will contact Kevin

#1439 24 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

It could be.
Which board do you have?
The 520-5033-00 or 520-5070-00?
What happens with the led's on the board?
First check the two diodes D2 and D7 (easy test).
If you know for sure the transistors (Q1-2-3-4 and Q8-9-10-11) are good, the IC's are the only thing remaining.
Peter

Hi Peter,

I did check doors and all transistors. All seem within specs. I will place a GPE order this week, when they open up again, and swap out the chips.
Also, the lights do work when the buttons are pressed

#1440 24 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

I am having a Simpsons back box light issue. As you can see from the picture the right side lights do not work. The flashers on that side do work though. I checked all connectors and all see ok. Cannot see to find and bad fuses either. I have a manual but am not that versed in pinball repair. Any help would be greatly appreciated[quoted image]

1) flashers... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
2)feature lamps... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
3) Manual pg.41 check power supply connector CN8.
4) Check G.I. lamp strings (BRN, White-BRN)(GRN, White-GRN)
5) Check broken G.I. busing on panel. Note: staples often cut the stranded wire busing.

#1441 24 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

1) flashers... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
2)feature lamps... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
3) Manual pg.41 check power supply connector CN8.
4) Check G.I. lamp strings (BRN, White-BRN)(GRN, White-GRN)
5) Check broken G.I. busing on panel. Note: staples often cut the stranded wire busing.

Thank you. I will do this tonight.

#1442 24 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Thank you. I will do this tonight.

Note: make sure the lamps #44, #47... L.E.D. are good to test in bad area.
I had to do a bally Kiss pinball with the same problem...
Turned out the guy shorted and blew up all of the General Illumination L.E.D.s...

#1443 24 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: make sure the lamps #44, #47... L.E.D. are good to test in bad area.
I had to do a bally Kiss pinball with the same problem...
Turned out the guy shorted and blew up all of the General Illumination L.E.D.s...

Thanks, I'll do that too.

#1444 24 days ago
Quoted from kba78:

Hi Peter,
I did check diodes and all transistors. All seem within specs. I will place a GPE order this week, when they open up again, and swap out the chips.
Also, the lights do work when the buttons are pressed

I suppose you mean the flash when you press the button?
That is all they should do, flash (or blink).
Even when you hold the flipper button they should only flash briefly.

#1445 24 days ago

Can someone take a picture of their PPB board around the J5 area with the connector?

Think I might have found the culprit...

#1446 24 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

1) flashers... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
2)feature lamps... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
3) Manual pg.41 check power supply connector CN8.
4) Check G.I. lamp strings (BRN, White-BRN)(GRN, White-GRN)
5) Check broken G.I. busing on panel. Note: staples often cut the stranded wire busing.

Thanks for all the help! I figured it out. When you mentioned cn8 it got me thinking. A buddy who knows a ton more than me about this replaced that connector for me because it was burned up. I looked at it and the top wire did not push all the way in to the connector and make contact. I pushed it in and boom, lights.

#1447 24 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Thanks for all the help! I figured it out. When you mentioned cn8 it got me thinking. A buddy who knows a ton more than me about this replaced that connector for me because it was burned up. I looked at it and the top wire did not push all the way in to the connector and make contact. I pushed it in and boom, lights.

#1448 22 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Check the pins/connectors on the PPS board, DE notorious for GI problems there.

The IDC connector going to J5 on the PPB board is toast. It actually melted part of the connector that goes to pin 1 on J5. Someone hacked the wire to pin 1 and tried to use the otherside of the IDC connector. So I have two wires (upper and lower) on the same pins of the connector Never seen that before...

Pretty sure that's my culprit.

#1449 21 days ago
Quoted from Schusler:

The IDC connector going to J5 on the PPB board is toast. It actually melted part of the connector that goes to pin 1 on J5. Someone hacked the wire to pin 1 and tried to use the otherside of the IDC connector. So I have two wires (upper and lower) on the same pins of the connector Never seen that before...
Pretty sure that's my culprit.

Great Plains Electronics sells the connectors and pins, it is where I got the parts to fix my Time Machine. Ed is a great guy and Pinside member!

Replace the cooked parts and get rid of as many incandescent bulbs in the GI string as you can to reduce the load.

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#1450 21 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

DE notorious for GI problems there.

Yup

IMG_4461 (resized).JPG
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