Wow, that's some pimped out time machine, I like it! I have one myself that needs restored. Where did you get the spinning toy at the back?

Pulled out my Data East Playboy 35th Anniversary from storage. I'm in need of a lockdown bar. I can't seem to find a stainless one for this era of Data East. The black one is readily available though.

Anyone have a nice one for sale or know where I can find such an animal? Are any other lockdown bars compatible with Data East Playboy 35th?

Thanks in advance!

I guess I need to sell some plasma

After having a Playboy 35th project sitting in the shop for about 6 years now, I'm finally getting around to doing it. It's mostly a "find that part" game to get it all put back together. I've gone through the game pretty good this evening and have a few things I'd like to have confirmed and a couple questions if anyone's willing to help out with that. I just picked up an MPU today with no acid damage and have a new ppb, power supply, and display on the way as well, since all those are missing. Awesome! So, here we go:

I couldn't find either of these answers in the manual/schematics that I downloaded from ipdb:

2 fuses by the bridge rectifiers in the back box, what are their values? mine are missing
5 fuses on the right inside of the back box, what are their values? are these GI fuses? mine are missing

There were also no lights in the back box. I see 89's in the schematic so I assume those are the correct flashers for the back box panel.

906 flashers are under the playfield and 555's elsewhere.

I couldn't find a part number for the playfield glass trim at the back (top). This should work correct? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8091
The one in the game has the top part broken off.

The mounts for the display are missing and I don't see any part numbers or reference to them in the manual. Any information on what should be there? Bolts? Plastic stand offs?

I think that's it for now, I had most of the little parts on hand already.

I can only assume you are talking about your PPB board. There are six fuses on the PPB board. They are F1 thru F6. They are all on the right hand side of the board.

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Their values can be found on the next page of the drawing. In the upper right hand corner of the drawing you will see F1 thru F4 represented with the fuse sideways "S" symbol. The fuse values for these four fuses are 5 amp slo-blo. F3 is in the lower right hand corner with a different fuse value; It is only a 3A SB. Fuse F5 is over in the lower left hand side of part of the print I did not get. It is a 5A SB.

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As far as the fuses on the right hand side of your back box, I need you to put up and pic so I can know what I am looking at. I think I know what they are but I am not going to guess at it and be wrong. And now that I look at your question and then look at my answer I could be wrong.

Can you put up pics of the areas that are a problem?

There is a Data East Playboy manual for sale on Ebay. You should snap it up. IPDB.org is good but if you own the pin a hard copy in your hands in the only way to fly.

ebay.com link: PLAYBOY 35th ANNIVERSARY Data East Pinball Manual Schematics

The fuses at the bridge rectifiers should be 8A S.B.

Data_East_bridge_rectifiers (resized).jpg

I have made a Tech Chart for all Data East games including Playboy.
You can find it on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl and look in the Data East section.
Also the schematics for each board is available.

Peter

Can someone tell me how this is suppose to be. On my sling switches one side has a jumper wire and other side has a cap with leg cut off. No diodes or resistors. Anytime one of the switches is activated with or without rubber on it it will machine gun. Thanks

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I think you are talking about these 5 fuses up top on R/H side of back box. If I am assuming correctly, those 5 fuses are a retrofit on Playboy. These fuses are for your pop bumpers and sling shots.

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This is the Playboy print showing pop bumper and sling wiring.

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This is the same print except this is for Robocop which post dates Playboy. You can see the fuses added in on the right hand side. There are five fuses and they are all rated at 2.5A Slo-Blo. My thinking is that there is probably a service bulletin that adds these fuses to Playboy.

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EDIT: I found the service bulletin. SB 20 addresses the adding of fuses to the pops but does not mention the slings. The fuses prevent a stuck switch from blowing out the CPU.

http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb20.pdf

Your diode is missing from the switch. What pin is this?

Sorry, 35th anniversary Playboy

This is Data east Simpson....you can see the silver band on the diode. The diode you will need is a 1N4004. If you need help send me a PM. Good luck.

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Just got an email that he is really close to receiving enough commitments to do the next run on EnerGI Maestro. If you've ever thought about buying one, now is the time or you may have to wait another 3-4 months.

Playboy 35th Continued:

Great info on the correct fuses for the bridge rectifiers and the fuse bank on the right inside side of the back box. Thanks!

I was also given the info on the display standoffs. I see them listed on Marco and come in sizes ranging from 1/4" long to 7/8" long. Any chance someone can measure these so I can get the correct ones? According to Marco, they should be secured with a #6 self tapping screw from the back side as well.

What's with the speaker panels? Did they come from the factory with both gold and black versions? I see lots of photos online with gold and lots with black. Mine happens to be black at the moment.

Here are my stand offs

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Hey everyone! Just joined the DE club with a Phantom Of The Opera players machine I picked up over the weekend. I’m needing some help on the wiring of this Phantom. Someone in the past bypassed the Power Supply and wired in a Computer power supply which has left me with a few wires that I’m not sure where they go. Wondering if someone can post a pic of the connection from the transformer with the solid yellow and Yellow/white G.I. wires where it hooks up and heads up to the back box, also some spare wires I have in the back box, not sure what they hook up to. I’m still learning how to read schematics, I have the manual but I’m just making heads or tales of it right now. Thanks!

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Playboy 35th update:

So, it looks like the display is mounted on blind hole standoffs. I checked out my Monday Night Football and they look to be the same. Found them on Marco to order as well.

For everyone's reference, I've also attached a photo of the 2 fuse holders that should be 8 amp slow blow by the bridge rectifiers (photo 1), and the 5 fuse block retrofit kit on the right inside of the back box that should all be 2.5 amp slow blow (photo 2).

There is a Europe tag on one of the wire harnesses, and it looks like there are some plug ins for a 220 power cord in here as well (photo 3), so I'll have to check and make sure the transformer is wired correct. That information is on page 28 of the manual. Currently, there is nothing in the cabinet that would go into those large round white plugs, and the power cord that would normally go out the back of the cabinet has been cut off inside the cabinet just before it would exit. New power cord is on hand.

This game has a pair of wires coming off of the speaker in the lower cabinet and one of them has a 3.9uf/50v capacitor soldered on to it (photo 4). Does anyone have any idea what that is about? First time I've seen anything like that. I'm going to remove them and hook up the speaker wires there as they should be though.

The playfield glass back trim piece that I mentioned from Marco should work as well after measuring and confirming shaping.

Getting down to it...... thanks for everyone's help thus far!

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Someone requested Playboy 35th slingshot photos. The first 3 photos are of my left slingshot, which is complete EXCEPT for the diode that is shown in the 4th photo. Keep in mind though that the 4th photo is of my right slighshot, which is NOT complete, but only there to show the positioning of the switch diode that is missing from the left slingshot. Hope that's not too confusing, but all the connection points are there. Both sides should be connected in the same manner.

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From the picture and plug-ins I'm sure this machine has originally been used in Germany. "Vorsicht 220V" is pretty self explanatory, and the white box features standard german power plug ins ("Schutzkontaktsteckdose", or "SchuKo" for short). The SchuKo plug has the two power plugs and an additional bracket around the plug for safety, see here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schuko

My wife has a Phantom and I can send you the photos you need. Do you have new connectors and the pins?

I've got a DE pin now... but sadly, some damage happened during shipping:

https://i.imgur.com/Ppj9USz.jpg

I might see about glue/clamping it, but there was insurance on shipping so I'd rather just replace it. Anyone have a DE back box for sale that fits the Simpsons cabinet? Can be from another pin, as long as it is mechanical fit.

I haven’t ordered the pins or housing yet. Trying to find the correct ones but someone mentioned using a fuse block between the transformer and main harness to the backbox that connects to CN9? I’m also missing the female connector and pins that connect to CN9 on the PB

Never heard of anyone adding fuse block. You can contact Marco Specialty for the correct connectors and pin or use someone who sells those parts. You also will need a tool to crimp the pins to the wires. I'm happy to share any photos needed.

Appreciate the help! I will need at least 1 photo, 2 if possible. Main one I need is of the connector at the transformer where the 2 solid yellow wires and the yellow/white wires connect. Picture below shows what I’m dealing whith. My connector is cut off right there and I’m assuming is wired yellow to yellow and yellow/white to white? Not sure though.

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If you do not have any luck finding a back box, you might consider getting a Williams style flat pack from:

https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=111

Before you poo poo this idea, consider that this pinsider rebuilt a DE Robocop using a Virtuapin.net cabinet kit.

See post #4

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/robocop-back-from-the-dead

Sorry for the damage you are having to deal with.

Which DE pin did you get?

How did this pin ship?

Was it shipped standing up on legs?

Or was it folded up and palleted?

Was it rammed? Or was it dropped? Can you tell?

And who was the shipper?

Don't let the insurance company shortchange you. This will not be a cheap repair.

Thanks.

This is a DE Robocop. Should be the same. I need to pull this transformer and clean things up a bit in the cab. If it would help I could pull the transformer and get some better pics. All it is is 2 connectors and 4 screws.

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It is the Simpsons. It was shipped on its legs. I didn't find the damage until I removed a shipping blanket. My guess is it was bumped into something while carting it from point A to point B... but the blanket hid the damage so the person who did it might not of been aware of the damage. I'm not going to name names at this time. These things happen and if the shipper makes thing right, then praise be their name.

I'll contact virtualpin.net and see what they have to say, thanks for the lead.

Exactly what I needed no need for more pictures, it was just that connector with the yellow wires what was throwing me. Thank you very much for you help! Now I can repair this and move on to my next problem

Sorry I'm not home to share a photo.....I can post some later today. Thanks for posting photos

How was Data East with installing knockers? I see in post #1268 above that this Playboy 35th has a knocker installed.

My Robocop does not have a knocker. I see no provisions in the wiring to allow for a knocker and I have no empty screw holes indicating where a knocker would have been.

Does you DE pin have a knocker?

My Phantom does not have a knocker in it. Didn’t see a harness for it or holes where it would have been.

Wouldn't be Playboy without at least one knocker.

Would the back box from DE Tommy be the same design as the Simpsons?

I just found this thread today, can I join the club?

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Here are the photos of the Phantom. I took photos of the power supply plug that is damaged on your Phantom.

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I hope more DE owners chime in and let us know what they have.

My Simpson Jurassic park hook has a knockers installed. Do not see one on Phantom.

1) Laser War has nothing.
========================

2) Secret Service

I cannot find anything in the Secret Service manual that says anything about a knocker.
================================

3) Torpedo Alley shows a knocker at ED 58.

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================================

4) Time Machine has something called Klacker Warning. I doubt that a Klacker is a knocker but I don't know what a klacker is, either.

E Ad 59

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=========================

5) I found the knocker on Playboy 35th.

It is E Ad 54 down at the bottom of the page.

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==================================

6) Robocop has nothing.

==================

7) Phantom of the Opera has nothing.
============

First seven DE pins show two with knockers; one with a Klacker ???; four with no knockers

Bummer. I would like to have a knocker on my Robocop.
======================

Interesting. JP manual shows nothing for a knocker that I can see.

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Hook is the same way. I cannot find anything about a knocker.

Simsons does not show a knocker, either.

I'll need to study the switch matrix's when I get a little more time. If your pins have these knockers on it sure seems like there will be something in the manual somewhere.

Amazing!! Thank you very much for the help, I’m fixing this issue as I’m typing this and hopefully I’ll have my Phantom playable by mid next week !!

My Torpedo Alley has one, and my MNF has one I know most Data East’s have the knocker cut out because it caused some sort of issue? Not sure what issue but most I’ve seen have them removed. My Checkpoint has it’s removed also.

Also about the Fuse Block, I have a spare Secret Service Head with quite a few Data East parts and that fuse block, is the retrofit universal?

Turns out I was wrong on that, there is no knocker after all on MNF

Thanks to the help of this DE group my Phantom lives, he’s not thriving as I still have the top left Super Vuk out due to a bad TIP36 (on order). I played the first game tonight and just avoided the piano subway. Can’t wait to get this game playing 100%. Titan rubbers are in order, gonna go with retro colored LEDs throughout the game and keep it natural looking. Thanks again everyone for all your help with the pics.

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My GnR has a knocker, but the previous owner disconnectet it for some reason....

maybe i should try and reconnect it.....

Torpedo Alley check out in the manual as having a knocker. MNF does not show a knocker but yours has one. I will need to brush up and improve my DE schematics and diagram reading skills.

I don't why that Fuse Block cannot be used. All you are doing is adding some fuses to protect your CPU circuits. My Robocop had the fuse block installed when I received it. And then I watched a Todd Tuckey in You Tube vid about Robocop and Todd talked about the retrofit. And then I stumbled onto the service bulletin.

All you are doing is unplugging the connectors on your CPU and adding the fuse block to the circuit via your CPU connectors

There are only three games of which there are no knockers listed in the solenoids table/schematics.
These are:
Monday Night Football (allthough there is a report now there is a knocker)
Phantom of the Opera
Robocop

@Isochronic_Frost: If you can provide me with the wire colors or maybe even the transistor, I will add the knocker to my Tech Chart for MNF.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

It seems there was a bad report on the knocker for MNF.
So these three games are confirmed to have no knockers.

Damn. I wonder id there is a way to retrofit a knocker to my Robocop. . These DE pins all use the same boards.

My SWDE and LAH both have knockers.

At that time, Data East was experimenting with optional sound ques
rather than the physical coil mounted component.
A cost saving measure for the company.
It did not go over very well with the operators.
Williams would fallow suit and do the same thing.
The sales teams at the shows were promoting it as a way to add
more features, in future games, with the freed-up transistor.

Maybe....
You could hook up a 24V lamp like a GE2151 or GE313 lamp to an "unused" transistor.
A lamp does not cause the transistor to go bad when something goes wroung.
See if it is indeed unused in the game.
Most DE games use solenoid 8 (Q39) for the knocker, in combination with a flasher on the switched L/R line.
Robocop has an unsed 7L and 8L connection.

You could also test this theory in Vpinball.