(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club


By PinballManiac40

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,226 posts
  • 308 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 146 Pinsiders

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“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 343 votes
    58%
  • I have one or more. 165 votes
    28%
  • Considering buying one or more. 55 votes
    9%
  • No, never 31 votes
    5%

(Multiple choice - 594 votes by 579 Pinsiders)

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There are 1226 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 25.
#1201 30 days ago

The wiring is reversed…..the violet/yellow wire should be where the banded sided of the diode is. Replace the diode....the TIP36 transistor might have died too...

#1202 30 days ago
Quoted from Brett-L:

but the coil operating the laser kick starts smoking. I decide to test it again for resistance and get a normal reading of 4-6 ohms. ?? The diode has a black burn mark on it. I don’t know if this is positive progress or not but at least the fuses didn’t blow with the flipper board disconnected. [quoted image]

The resistance of the coil is normal because it hasn't fried - yet. If it is smoking it is probably because the current is continuous instead of momentary. You might have a bad sleeve due to the heat, so replace that and check for free movement. Suspect a shorted driver transistor or something upstream is probably holding it on. Replace the diode if it is at all questionable (inexpensive) making sure the orientation is correct.

Quoted from MarAlb:

The wiring is reversed…..the violet/yellow wire should be where the banded sided of the diode is. Replace the diode....the TIP36 transistor might have died too...

Wondering how that got reversed? A backwards diode directly shorts the solenoid power. That should kill the fuse and none of your solenoids using the power from that branch would not work

#1203 30 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

The resistance of the coil is normal because it hasn't fried - yet. If it is smoking it is probably because the current is continuous instead of momentary. You might have a bad sleeve due to the heat, so replace that and check for free movement. Suspect a shorted driver transistor or something upstream is probably holding it on. Replace the diode if it is at all questionable (inexpensive) making sure the orientation is correct.

Wondering how that got reversed? A backwards diode directly shorts the solenoid power. That should kill the fuse and none of your solenoids using the power from that branch would not work

That would most likely be my brother in law, who has some soldering experience, when we were trying to get the laser kick working a few months ago. He replaced the coil with a new one but I’m guessing he reversed the diode? Just weird because even if this is the case, although the laser kick still didn’t work everything else in the game seemed to be working normally until I turned it on last week after sitting unplugged for a month or so. The plunger does move freely in the sleeve so I guess the coil is still good. Thank you guys for helping me through this

#1204 30 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Replace the diode if it is at all questionable (inexpensive) making sure the orientation is correct.

The transistor on my PPS board was shot cooking the coil, it seems to be common on DE games for some reason. The part is a few bucks on Mouser.com and easy to change.

Added 20 days ago:

PPB not PPS

#1205 25 days ago
Quoted from Keroppi:

I have searched but cannot find: what are the correct DE legs?
I understand that they moved from 28.5" to 30" with GnR, but were they ribbed?
I have a LW3, I have 28.5" legs, which I understand to be correct length, but my legs are (were) chrome, not black crinkle/powdercoat finish. They are *not* ribbed.
Obviously, they're not the "original" legs, but I'd like to at least restore the correct *type* of legs. If original DE legs are not ribbed, I can proceed. Please advise.

Note: Data East legs from that time period were like Bally's legs...
--- butt with black crinkle finish with a light fluting on each side...

#1206 24 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: Data East legs from that time period were like Bally's legs...
--- butt with black crinkle finish with a light fluting on each side...

Ah, so they *were* ribbed. I have the correct (shaped) ones then. Thank you for the confirmation.

#1207 20 days ago

Finally had an hour to mess with the game tonight. I replaced the diode on the kicker coil so the purple and yellow wire matched the banded side of the diode.. powered up and fuses didn’t blow, but the coil locked on and started smoking again. Only this time when it locked on the kicker plunger activated, where as before I don’t remember this happening. So frustrating..

#1208 20 days ago
Quoted from Brett-L:

Finally had an hour to mess with the game tonight. I replaced the diode on the kicker coil so the purple and yellow wire matched the banded side of the diode.. powered up and fuses didn’t blow, but the coil locked on and started smoking again. Only this time when it locked on the kicker plunger activated, where as before I don’t remember this happening. So frustrating..

I would get a meter out and check the transistor on the PPB (Playfield Power Board).

#1209 20 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I would get a meter out and check the transistor on the PPS board.

Which board are you referring to when you say pps? I’m not familiar with that abbreviation

#1210 20 days ago
Quoted from Brett-L:

Which board are you referring to when you say pps? I’m not familiar with that abbreviation

Playfield Power Board, sorry not PPS. Need more coffee before posting.

Q4 was replaced on mine (Time Machine), was easy to compare it to a known good one right next to it using a meter set on diode check. Mine you could tell something was wrong as it was partially melted and meter confirmed it was bad.

Look up in your manual which transistor runs "Laser kick"

Edit: Just looked back a page or two, looks like you have replace the board already but perhaps it was damaged with the reversed wiring? I'd meter the new board transistors to make sure they are not damaged so you can eliminate it as a possibility.

20190502_170937_resized (resized).jpg

#1211 20 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Playfield Power Board, sorry not PPS. Need more coffee before posting.
Q4 was replaced on mine (Time Machine), was easy to compare it to a known good one right next to it using a meter set on diode check. Mine you could tell something was wrong as it was partially melted and meter confirmed it was bad.
Look up in your manual which transistor runs "Laser kick"
Edit: Just looked back a page or two, looks like you have replace the board already but perhaps it was damaged with the reversed wiring? I'd meter the new board transistors to make sure they are not damaged so you can eliminate it as a possibility.
[quoted image]

Thanks, I’m in need of some coffee also right about now! I did check the transistors on the new ppb and they check out. I’m pretty sure Q4 was replaced on the old board that I swapped out, but I think Q1 runs the laser kick. I also had my friend replace the Q24 tip 102 on the cpu a while back (when the laser kick first stopped working) but didn’t check the resistors before and after Q24.
Quick question- say I disconnect both wires going to the laser kick coil just to get the game playable again.. in your opinion could this do any damage to any other coils or anything?

#1212 20 days ago
Quoted from Brett-L:

Quick question- say I disconnect both wires going to the laser kick coil just to get the game playable again.. in your opinion could this do any damage to any other coils or anything?

1) Disconnecting the coil will not harm anything.

2) If the diagram on the prior page is correct, Q1 on the PPB is for laser kick and Q24 on the MPU.

#1213 19 days ago

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro a month or so ago but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. PM'd maker, and he said that he just sold the last one and now has to wait for new group of buyers before his next run. Told me it could take up to 3 or 4 months. As an update, I just checked with him and the waiting list is about half way there.

So, my plea to all DE owners is if you ever thought about buying one of these then now is the time! Help me get mine faster by signing up on the waiting list. Selfish motives - of course, but you'll benefit also. Get rid of all the clicking during GI changes and also adjust dimming/flashing to help avoid the seizure inducing flashes that DE games can have with LEDs installed.

Learn about it here: https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro

Sign up on the waiting list here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfnci_UqqFLH8AF7CiGq_aPceyLlusw0XluQEeJnGR-PyJ-qQ/viewform

#1214 19 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro a month or so ago but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. PM'd maker, and he said that he just sold the last one and now has to wait for new group of buyers before his next run. Told me it could take up to 3 or 4 months. As an update, I just checked with him and the waiting list is about half way there.
So, my plea to all DE owners is if you ever thought about buying one of these then now is the time! Help me get mine faster by signing up on the waiting list. Selfish motives - of course, but you'll benefit also. Get rid of all the clicking during GI changes and also adjust dimming/flashing to help avoid the seizure inducing flashes that DE games can have with LEDs installed.
Learn about it here: https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro
Sign up on the waiting list here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfnci_UqqFLH8AF7CiGq_aPceyLlusw0XluQEeJnGR-PyJ-qQ/viewform

As the owner of one of these boards, I can only echo Tantrum. The play after installing was much less disturbing: flashing LEDs no longer obnoxious, no clicking. Easy install and adjustment. Overall a must-have addition if you convert to LED.

#1215 19 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Went to purchase the EnerGI Maestro a month or so ago but had to sign up to be on a waiting list. PM'd maker, and he said that he just sold the last one and now has to wait for new group of buyers before his next run. Told me it could take up to 3 or 4 months. As an update, I just checked with him and the waiting list is about half way there.
So, my plea to all DE owners is if you ever thought about buying one of these then now is the time! Help me get mine faster by signing up on the waiting list. Selfish motives - of course, but you'll benefit also. Get rid of all the clicking during GI changes and also adjust dimming/flashing to help avoid the seizure inducing flashes that DE games can have with LEDs installed.
Learn about it here: https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro
Sign up on the waiting list here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSfnci_UqqFLH8AF7CiGq_aPceyLlusw0XluQEeJnGR-PyJ-qQ/viewform

Quoted from zahner:

As the owner of one of these boards, I can only echo Tantrum. The play after installing was much less disturbing: flashing LEDs no longer obnoxious, no clicking. Easy install and adjustment. Overall a must-have addition if you convert to LED.

Jeez, something else to buy. I have a Robocop. I did not know I was having a problem. I"m thinking that this pinball hobby is 10% of the U.S. economy

#1216 19 days ago

I would like to give a shout out to Rob Anthony of https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1092-lockwhenlitcom.

I was having problems with the pop bumpers and slings on my Robocop. I tried all I knew what to do. Some searching for my problem led me to this gentleman who talked like he knew what was going on.

Short story: I advised him of my issues and I sent him my problematic MPU. For around $100.00 he sent it back working 100%.

I asked him if I would just be better off to buy the Rottendog replacement board he also sells for $400.00. He said my MPU should be OK to repair. He could have told me otherwise and I would not have known the difference.

You can go to Rob with confidence you will be treated fairly. I got a real quick real quick turn around from him.

#1217 19 days ago

I'm curious...did Data East ever have a parts guide ala Bally, Gottlieb and Williams?

Helping a buddy on a pin trying to decipher where some hardware goes (posts,screws) and replacing some completely missing. Manual is rendered useless for the pedantic items.

#1218 19 days ago
Quoted from Schusler:

I'm curious...did Data East ever have a parts guide ala Bally, Gottlieb and Williams?
Helping a buddy on a pin trying to decipher where some hardware goes (posts,screws) and replacing some completely missing. Manual is rendered useless for the pedantic items.

Not really... They did give new parts information to the current pinball they were putting out...
Butt, you would have to have the current game manual to get the new part #s etc, etc, etc.
They were getting better at parts listing towards the end of the line before Sega bought them out.
Sega would do a complete overhaul of the parts listing in much better detail.
As for Data East games...
I would take a copy of the playfield layout and start marking where the post go, the size, the color, etc.

#1219 19 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Not really... They did give new parts information to the current pinball they were putting out...
Butt, you would have to have the current game manual to get the new part #s etc, etc, etc.
They were getting better at parts listing towards the end of the line before Sega bought them out.
Sega would do a complete overhaul of the parts listing in much better detail.
As for Data East games...
I would take a copy of the playfield layout and start marking where the post go, the size, the color, etc.

Ugh, I was 'fraid of that, thanks Vector.

I'm helping a buddy on his Star Wars, trying to decipher what went here and there. Problem is missing screws,wrong screw sizes and the probably one of the harder to find items - missing standup posts for plastics.

Guess the only action is to contact owners for info and work from the beginning.

#1220 19 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I would like to give a shout out to Rob Anthony of https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1092-lockwhenlitcom.
I was having problems with the pop bumpers and slings on my Robocop. I tried all I knew what to do. Some searching for my problem led me to this gentleman who talked like he knew what was going on.
Short story: I advised him of my issues and I sent him my problematic MPU. For around $100.00 he sent it back working 100%.
I asked him if I would just be better off to buy the Rottendog replacement board he also sells for $400.00. He said my MPU should be OK to repair. He could have told me otherwise and I would not have known the difference.
You can go to Rob with confidence you will be treated fairly. I got a real quick real quick turn around from him.

Rob is one of the best in service and board repair. He has repaired/fixed multiple boards for me in the past and is currently fixing my power supply board on Getaway. Plus, Rob's a really nice guy!!

#1221 19 days ago
Quoted from Brett-L:

Thanks, I’m in need of some coffee also right about now! I did check the transistors on the new ppb and they check out. I’m pretty sure Q4 was replaced on the old board that I swapped out, but I think Q1 runs the laser kick. I also had my friend replace the Q24 tip 102 on the cpu a while back (when the laser kick first stopped working) but didn’t check the resistors before and after Q24.
Quick question- say I disconnect both wires going to the laser kick coil just to get the game playable again.. in your opinion could this do any damage to any other coils or anything?

I've got some nice Tech Charts on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Look in the Data East section (or the Tech Charts section).
Data East schematics for each board are also available.

Peter

#1222 19 days ago
Quoted from Schusler:

Ugh, I was 'fraid of that, thanks Vector.
I'm helping a buddy on his Star Wars, trying to decipher what went here and there. Problem is missing screws,wrong screw sizes and the probably one of the harder to find items - missing standup posts for plastics.
Guess the only action is to contact owners for info and work from the beginning.

Can you post pictures of what you need clarified on the Data East Star Wars?

#1223 19 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I've got some nice Tech Charts on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Look in the Data East section (or the Tech Charts section).
Data East schematics for each board are also available.
Peter

This is perfect for quick reference, thanks for sharing!

#1224 16 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I would get a meter out and check the transistor on the PPB (Playfield Power Board).

So I pulled the new ppb board I installed and sure enough Q1 tip 36c transistor is toast. Also tested the old boards’ Q1 and that was toast also.

Bear with me, this is my first pin. I’m learning as I go, but so far this is where I’m at-

Laser kick stops working. A friend swaps out Q24, the tip 102 on the mpu. Now, in hindsight, I believe this is not where we should’ve started. Game plays the same but still no laser kick.

Friend swaps laser kick coil but mounts the diode backwards. Game still plays.

After a month of the game being idle I turn it on and basically nothing is working as it should. (ball won’t launch, strange displays on the screen)
I find a burnt fuse on a fuse clip that was previously broken, friend soldered the fuse directly to the broken clip. (F5 on the ppb)

Spend $80 for a computer guy to solder a new fuse clip and a new tip 36c (Q1)
Turn on, fuses blow. Disconnect connectors to the flipper board, fuses don’t blow but laser kick coil locks on and smokes.

Spend $145 on a new ppb board. Replace laser kick coil diode and flip it the right way. Power on and laser kick coil locks on and starts smoking

Check new and old ppb board Tip 36c at Q1 and both are toast.. and now for the big question, what the hell is causing the Q1 to fail??

My next step will be pulling the mpu and checking what I can on that, but if anyone wants to chime in and help me straighten this out beers are on me

#1225 16 days ago
Quoted from Brett-L:

So I pulled the new ppb board I installed and sure enough Q1 tip 36c transistor is toast. Also tested the old boards’ Q1 and that was toast also.
Bear with me, this is my first pin. I’m learning as I go, but so far this is where I’m at-
Laser kick stops working. A friend swaps out Q24, the tip 102 on the mpu. Now, in hindsight, I believe this is not where we should’ve started. Game plays the same but still no laser kick.
Friend swaps laser kick coil but mounts the diode backwards. Game still plays.
After a month of the game being idle I turn it on and basically nothing is working as it should. (ball won’t launch, strange displays on the screen)
I find a burnt fuse on a fuse clip that was previously broken, friend soldered the fuse directly to the broken clip. (F5 on the ppb)
Spend $80 for a computer guy to solder a new fuse clip and a new tip 36c (Q1)
Turn on, fuses blow. Disconnect connectors to the flipper board, fuses don’t blow but laser kick coil locks on and smokes.
Spend $145 on a new ppb board. Replace laser kick coil diode and flip it the right way. Power on and laser kick coil locks on and starts smoking
Check new and old ppb board Tip 36c at Q1 and both are toast.. and now for the big question, what the hell is causing the Q1 to fail??
My next step will be pulling the mpu and checking what I can on that, but if anyone wants to chime in and help me straighten this out beers are on me

What I would do is replace the Q1 (I got mine from Mouser)

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/511-TIP36C

At $2 a pop I ordered a few just on general principle.

Very easy to replace- Just cut all 3 legs off with dykes so they are separate and then you can use a solder iron to remove the legs one at a time. Might have to use solder braid to clean up individual mounting holes and then solder in the new unit.

This done, the PPB is fixed and set aside.

At this point I would triple check polarity of the diode and ohm the laser coil to make sure it is 100%. So the only thing suspect is the driver on the MPU. You could even disconnect the laser coil and hook up a meter to those leads and see if the coil is getting power and ground for operation. This way there is no load on the transistor and little opportunity for failure.

Power up the machine and see if voltage and ground is present. If the meter reads nothing but you can trigger the switch and get a pulse then you are good. If it reads power (meaning the MPU is grounding the circuit) then it is time to look at the transistor on the MPU.

Personally if ordering from Mouser for the Q1, I would order the Q24 transistor too. Have you compared the Q24 unit to the others on the MPU for the same readings?

1 week later
#1226 7 days ago

The sounds on my Robocop are not quite right. I have have it running and playing well. But the sounds are not consistent. Sometimes the Turbo sounds are sounding off and sometimes they are not.

I read somewhere that I should consider replacing the ribbon style sound cable. This is the only site that Googled up when Googled Robocop pinball sound cable. I would buy this cable but the seller says, "It is suspected to work".......

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/replacement-parts-dataeast-sound-cable-p-34.html

I don't want to spend 25.00 for a cable that is suspected to work.

EDIT: I guess this is the website for Pinsider Zitt.

What sound cable options do I have for Robocop?

TIA

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