Without looking for a manual, since I only have a second.... If you look at your switch matrix table in the manual and find a switch labeled as lane change, then yes.

Thank you won’t be back til Friday now but will check that first.

OK had to do some hunting. But yes right flipper does do lane change on time machine left one does info. Nothing listed as lane change in switch matrix as per book.

Pg. 22
left EOS #15 wht-vio
Right EOS #16 wht-gry
Col 2 grn-red

Yes but only after the 1st. plunge no change can be made on the first plunge (just like Laser War) after that yes you can lane change the top lights & instruction is printed right on the apron "Right flipper changes top lanes"

End stroke would be for flipper coil. But book does not list it as lane change as wayout440 had stated in post 1151. Just skimming later De books Checkpoint and Star-wars They are listed as left and right flipper switch only this is due to them going to deger/ss flippers. vec-tor is correct on color code. It's just stacked switches like they did on GTB system one.
IMG_0959 (resized).JPG picture is from my time machine waiting for its rising from the dead.

Now my memory tells me later on De games or Sega i think the flipper power was cut at game over and cabinet switches for flippers were used for entering initials in high score as to the goofy Gtb front of cabinet buttons by coin door ie bad girls.

"Lane Change" is copy righted to Williams Electronics...
So... there is no mention of it as a "feature" or documentation.
Same goes for " Multi-Ball"...

Surprised they wouldn't just give a similar name to avoid copy right lane swap, lane move ,slot change, slot swap. most people would have figured it out

Thanks guys. I have a problem to investigate. Probably missed something when the flippers were rebuilt. Game also not reliably kicking the ball back after making the Star Warp ramp. And didn’t realize ‘can’t call it lane change’ only works on the first ball.

Looked ok to me so I'm going to have to do some more tracing.

After! the 1st. ... plunge that is

Hey all, I have a Rocky and Bullwinkle I recently got on trade. It is in okay shape and getting better by the day, but the left VUK for Aesop is really inconsistent. Sometimes the ball barely comes up, other times it shoots up and over thru the outlane. Anyone else run into this? I tried bending the scoop down a bit and that didn't help. New VUK or inconsistent power going to it? Thanks for any tips.

Did you check all the boards for bad solder joints at the print headers?
Are the fuse clips all replaced?
Especially the PPB...

I currently own JP & TFTC.
Both great games that are very fun. I'm in the process of adding mods to both.
I previously owned LW3.
Another good pin, traded it away.
Data East is underrated. If any of their titles were made by Bally or Williams they would be top 10 pins for sure.

I just picked up this Monday Night Football today. Super fun.

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I just joined the club with the Simpsons. Is the center plastic unobtainium? Is there a good scan floating around that I could reproduce one from?

Mine behaves the exact same way. It can shoot normally for months and then all of a sudden it seems like there is way more power behind it. But luckily that never lasts long and eventually it will act normal again.

I put a piece of thin clear plexi from asop plastic to sling plastic hard to tell it’s even their. But does a great job stoped all those unwanted drains!

I just did the exact same thing three days ago!! Great minds think alike. On mine, I think it's inconsistent power getting to the coil. So until I get time to dig in, this temp fix works for me. Thank you everyone for the suggestions.

Refurbing my Data East Star Wars and found that the woofer was not a woofer but a crappy mid-range speaker. I recently upgraded my Woofer on my TZ following this guide:
http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

But this guide doesnt apply to the Data East. It seems that each speaker has its own amplifier. So my questions:
1. Do I need a crossover on the woofer?
2. Do i need an LPAD, if so how should i hook it up? (This is my main Question)

The design of the game doesn't split frequencies like you are thinking. This is why the cabinet speaker is a midrange speaker and not a woofer. The cabinet just enhances the low frequencies. There is no reason to put a crossover on the cabinet speaker because there is nothing to crossover to, unless you add another higher frequency mid or tweeter to the cab. You don't need an LPAD, unless you want that kind of control - but that would only allow you to lower the volume of the cab speaker. If you wanted to make the cab speaker louder than the backbox speakers, you could use a stereo LPAD for the backbox speakers. If I was just replacing the cab speaker with a woofer, I wouldn't use an LPAD or a crossover, I'd use a low pass filter so that only the low frequencies are passed to the woofer.

lpass12db (resized).png

Added a Tommy to my Hook last weekend. Cool game! Display has gone on it.

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I guess i dont understand this as much as i thought i did. I purchased a 80 mhz crossover:
https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-80-hz-low-pass-8-ohm-crossover--266-442

I thought this would filter everything over 80 mhz out and send it to the woofer, how is this different than a low pass filter?
My thought was the LPAD would be used to control the volume on the mid and tweeters so that you could turn the general volume all the way to drive the woofer but use the lpad to decrease the volume to mids and tweets.
What am i missing?

Thank you very much for replying, no one else has really chimed in on this!

Hi all, I wonder if anyone has had a problem of this sort or has any suggestions what could cause this.

I have a DE Star Wars that a (newish Vishay) DMD packed up in suddenly, just completely went one day. I tested it in another machine and it was dead so I put another display in it and it was instantly fine again.

After that a couple of weeks later the replacement display went weird (as the attached photos) and it was while I had the back box open to look at this (suspecting a ribbon cable or something similar) a cap on the power board went bang.

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I have now put a new (X-pin) board in the game and the DMD is still the same. If I plug another display in it is fine so the game seems to have blown 2 displays!!

Is there anything that could cause that or is the dodgy power board lightly to be the cause?

I'm a bit reluctant to put another display in it unless I know its not going to happen again!

Thanks in advance

I had the same problem. Luckily the power supply didn't burn out my DMD, but my DMD did look like that when I booted the game. Capacitor on my power supply had leaked and burnt up the traces around it. No guarantee the power supply caused your issue, but if I had to put money on, I'd say your power supply burnt out and you should be good to throw a new one in

80*hz* not mhz - just for clarity. The part you linked to is just a low pass filter, the description is misconstrued. The picture shows a part with just a coil and capacitor....that is a low pass filter, just like the schematic diagram in my last post. A true crossover will have additional components for additional tailoring of frequencies to different speakers that reproduce specific ranges of frequencies.

The game speakers (at least the common and earlier solid state games) get the same full range of frequencies fed to full range speakers. No fancy high fidelity, no fancy distinctions between frequency reproduction. A small pair of full range speakers in the backbox, and a slightly larger full range speaker in the cabinet - to give it a little backbone. This doesn't mean you can't attempt to improve on it by dividing up the source into different frequency reproduction and feed to tweeters, woofers etc... I just wanted to let you know what you are working with.

All good points.

Jgadzia,
I am working on the same project, here is my setup on my gnr:
1. I bought it with a pinsound board and upgraded speakers, but I knew I could make it better.
2. changed out the 4” speakers with some nice two way coaxials and cnc’d adapters to fit nicely.
3. Added a small power supply to power the pinsound and amifiers.
4. Added a ktp mini sub amp, has selectable 80/100/120 LPF built in, the pinsound output was not crossed over and the factory sub had its iwn LP coil attached.
5. Machined a spacer to raise the new sub off the floor so the suround can move without rubbing and the factory sub grill can be retained. All without any modification to the cabinet so it can all be reversed.
6. Working on bulding a custom topper to add 2 6” speakers in enclosures that look like marshall amps and I am adding a 4 channel ktp amp to powet the 2 up top and the two in the cabinet.
Its all a bit overboard, but I love me some GnR Pinball!!!
D28374DD-8AE7-4A86-9AC5-29250FD4E9DE (resized).jpeg3FF48EBB-3B44-44A0-8640-14F682663D1E (resized).jpeg4E4485C2-5FAA-4EAB-A60B-00474986C68C (resized).jpeg4634C160-E160-4F4B-A5F7-C17BD7EB109D (resized).jpeg27B3A342-A74F-4F08-B1E8-479AAAF4F533 (resized).jpegD21CE4E5-7EE4-43B3-8B67-99A0400F0AC3 (resized).jpegC74A44A7-5D9D-4A91-926E-A71D01BECAD0 (resized).jpeg7D78E0A7-EF2B-48C7-A1DC-22F45F144670 (resized).jpeg884B5EFE-075B-41B9-AECB-8F6CCBBE064B (resized).jpeg

Thank you for that, I had a feeling this might be related but having blown 2 DMD's am being a bit cautious! Thinking I need to put new power supply's in my other DE games!

wow impressive, that thing is going to kick!

Really nice custom touch on the speakers and the topper looks like it will be incredible - both functionally and fitting the theme of the game well.

Yes sir! The right flipper is supposed to change the lanes.

Anyone ever add a shaker motor to a Data East "Time Machine"? I think it would be a pretty cool effect during the "Star Warp" sequence. Any info on how to install one would be appreciated!

My first data east game, checking the fuses and on the flipper board one fuse clip fell apart. Are these easy to replace, or is there a trick to do these right?
I picked up some new clips just want to know before I start. Thanks!

Hey everyone! I just got back from the Midwest Gaming Classic this past weekend. After playing pinball for hours and hours in Milwaukee, I had the itch to play my TMNT Data east this evening. Something didn't seem right as I plunged the ball to the playfield. Callouts seemed to be going nuts. Almost each flipper activation led to a callout. Is this normal? I never noticed it before. I wonder if the playfield protector that's been on my machine for close to a year has nudged some of the switches closed. In that case, I'll probably need to run a diagnostic for switches.

In case anyone is curious, here's a video clip showing my game in freeplay. I appreciate any/all feedback you guys have.

Thanks!

Huge progress made by checking wires at left amber target. A green-black wire was somehow detached from the lug, causing all blue targets and left-most amber target not to activate. Soldered wire back in place and all 4 targets working. Next issue is the "Save April" switch. Doea anyone have a picture showing wires at that location? Also, there is a loose wire at "Captive Ball" switch. I bet these two switches are related, especially since they're at the same switch column. I bet that loose wire at "Captive Ball" needs to be reattched.

Any help, including pics, are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

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Screenshot_20190423-081752_Gallery (resized).jpg

Nothing special..just solder a new fuse clip in place and you will be good to go. They are a high failure item. I would recommend just replacing them all since you already have the board out. The ones that Data East installed were crap.

Make sure you get fuse holders that can handle the amperage - GPE sells two sizes. In other words, don't put in a fuse holder rated for 4 amps into a slot for a 10 amp fuse.

Found a good pic of that loose wire at the captive ball for tmnt. Can anyone confirm if this needs to be reattached to that lug with the matching grn-prpl wire? Thanks!

20190423_143428 (resized).jpg

Nevermind. Made sense resoldering that wire to the matching wire and...all switches work!!! 1st time since owning the machine (2017) to have all switches working. Part of the problem was not knowing about them.

I have searched but cannot find: what are the correct DE legs?

I understand that they moved from 28.5" to 30" with GnR, but were they ribbed?

I have a LW3, I have 28.5" legs, which I understand to be correct length, but my legs are (were) chrome, not black crinkle/powdercoat finish. They are *not* ribbed.

Obviously, they're not the "original" legs, but I'd like to at least restore the correct *type* of legs. If original DE legs are not ribbed, I can proceed. Please advise.

Has anyone besides Lonzo restored their silver Data East apron logo? I'm looking for ideas.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/12#post-4291888

I haven't done it but my thought would be to paint it with frisket, sand off the silver leaving just the surface exposed, paint, then peel off the frisket mask. Otherwise just carefully brush paint it.

Okay guys, any advice here would be appreciated. Every time I hit my right flipper on TFTC it awards me a shot towards living dead and every time I hit my left flipper it awards me a shot towards axe-tra ball. It doesn’t matter that I’m not in those modes.
Thanks in advance...

I’m looking for some guidance with my Star Trek 25th. The game has been playing well with little issues for the past year, except for the laser kick. I have a MM but really don’t know much since this is my first pin.
After turning it on for the first time in about a month, the game started acting strange at start up. The dmd would briefly light up with the version number, then disappear. The attract mode music would continue to play, just nothing on the display. I started to fish around and found one side of the F5 fuse clips on the ppb board broke apart, and the fuse was blown.
Keep in mind, I have three young kids and little to no time to spend playing it let alone diagnosing and fixing it, so I took the ppb board to a local electronics store to get the fuse clip fixed, and to swap out the Q1 tip36c transistor I thought was responsible for the laser kick not working. The guy charged me $80 and I had to supply the fuse clip and tip36c. I thought that was very high for a couple solder joints but said to myself it would be worth it if it plays like it used to. I re install the board, power up, and f5 immediately blows. $80 bucks down the drain.
Now I’m bummed and decide to drop $140 on a new rottendog ppb, just really wanting to get this game playable in time for my daughters bday party coming up soon. The new board arrives, I install, cross my fingers, power up and f5 and f9 fuses blow. On the original board there isn’t even an f9 fuse so now I’m completely confused
Sorry for the long rant. Any tips on where to go next are greatly appreciated. I have a dmm and just need some direction if anyone can help.

If fuses are still blowing on the new ppb, then the problem probably lies elsewhere. Check the transistor (TIP122) on the cpu, looks like Q24 for the laser kick. Also could be an issue with the coil itself, or the diode.... read this thread, it's related to the VUK, but the info could help your issue too.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-trek-blowing-f5-fuse-on-ppb-board

This is handy to read too...

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

snapshot (resized).JPG

a small update.. I checked all coils for resistance and was getting between 4-6 ohms on all coils except the laser kick. Seems like I couldn’t get a steady reading on that one. After some research I decided to try and disconnect the plugs to the flipper board and power up.. the fuses on the ppb don’t blow, but the coil operating the laser kick starts smoking. I decide to test it again for resistance and get a normal reading of 4-6 ohms. ?? The diode has a black burn mark on it. I don’t know if this is positive progress or not but at least the fuses didn’t blow with the flipper board disconnected.

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