Not sure, how do I check the hold circuit?

Always possible, but worked fine before...

Thinking about selling my DE Powerboard from my JP. What's something like this worth? I pulled it out and replaced it with an Xpin one to be more future proof. There was an issue with the sound cutting out that I could never track down, and someone suggested just replacing the powerboard.

The only visible issue I see is that one of the pins looks a little toasty.

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This is my Data east line-up, I doubt any of these will ever leave. When I first got into pinball I always looked down on DE games and they never stayed long but in the last 5 years or so have revisited them with a newfound appreciation, helped by Pinsound

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...and code updates.

Do you know what, I kind of like the original, I have colour displays in my MM, Shadow and TAFG but apart from that I like it original, sorry

Absolutely, Chad how rude of me, please accept my apologies! Just waiting for G&R now

couple of plungers for sale 1 data east and 1 unknown.......$15.00 plus shipping for both

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1 unknown: Bally, late 1970's /early 1980's.

plungers sold........thanks

[EDIT: Someone very helpful on the Data East Facebook Group helped out]

But if anyone's parting one out I've got some parts I'm in search of! Specifically desperate for the plastic underneath the yellow wire ramp.

Did you ever resolve this? I have a DE Playboy, replaced the sound rom chips, but I only get barely audible distorted voice and no music and lots of loud humming. Anyone have some help for a newbie? thx

Check and verify clean power....both DC levels and AC ripple. Any questionable out of spec power should be investigated.
Try reseating, checking continuity, or better yet - replacement - of the ribbon cable between the MPU and sound board.
Check all sockets, make sure no damage, contamination...replace any questionable sockets. Should be clean and shiny sockets as well as the pins on the ICs.
If none of the above, you'll probably need an oscilloscope and advanced audio troubleshooting techniques or enlist the help of a professional.

Hey gang. New pin owner. Didn't read all 23 pages but many. Having a Star Wars Power issue. Replaced the power board and have now discovered it's and issue at the fuse down in the volume control box. It's finicky and had to be twisted in just right for the machine to power on. It has since gotten extremely worse. The bottom of the fuse holder will literally catch on fire if turned on. Holy he'll. What do I do?

Repair it immediately! That game is unsafe. Nobody needs a fire. At minimum you are going to need a new fuse holder and mains power cable, probably replace the power switch and line filter as well. If you can't or don't want to, please enlist professional assistance.

Replace the fuse holder.

Id argue to replace the filter, fuse holder, at the same time.

If it's getting hot, I'd disconnect everything and do some voltage checks as well.

I'd sell it, and simply state in the ad "it just needs a fuse"...

Why?

Seems like that whole system of power in, filter, fuse holder were all in a rough enough shape that one part of it caught fire. I'd imagine the other parts of that circuit were messed with as well

I imagine that I would only replace parts that need replacing.

Eh, its a $6 filter and your pin was already on fire. Really up to you. Post the results after you fix the power box.

Noy my pin. Not my powerbox.

Guys: working on a jp.

Pinwiki and manual has the PPB board fuse F6 as a 5A. But clays guide lists it as a 3A.

Also fuse for F9 as well as pinwiki and clay says 5A but but manual says 4A.

Can anyone confirm correct fuses?

Also a source for the correct fuse clips

Thanks!

Bump. Anyone?

Fuse clips Ed at Great plains electronics is a source for them. Can't help on fuse own older de games books say 3a for my games.

Note that Clays guides say fuses specified are for *most* games, and to refer to your manual for exact fuse recommendations. There are many faces in this series, some have different board revisions and. game features.

I hear ya. So you think just follow manual over pinwiki or clay?

Just concerned bc I picked up this gorgeous jp that worked fine at sellers location. All I did was fold head and load into truck. Got home and fuses started blowing.

Hi BB,

Look at the board on the far left-hand side of the photo below from my JP archive photos for the F6 fuse (bottom fuse) on the PCB itself it displays 5A SB. Make sure that you zoom in on the photo to see all the required detail.

Gord

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Thanks. Gonna go w 5A

Can any of you guys verify something for me please?

On the PPB 520-5021-05 board there are fuses for the solenoids (F6) and flashers (F7).
When you remove F7 does F6 still have power?
Remember F6 is at the open side of the relay.
In other words, do the coils still work?
Easy to check via the coil test.

I believe there is a design error in this board regarding F7 position.
I know you can't change the fuse from position, but I maybe we can come up with a solution....

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

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Hi all,
Currently have a Twister, and a Last Action Hero on order to be delivered later this week. Posted this question in the Twister club forum as well:

I'm finally getting around to replacing a couple ROM chips in my Twister to see if that improves spinner/fan functionality. I had trouble pulling the ROMS which is why I took so long as I didn't want to break anything. Finally was able to figure out how to extract existing chips without causing damage.

Here is what I got:
TWISTER (SEGA) EPROM U210 GAME A4.05
TWISTER (SEGA) EPROM ROM0 DISPLAY A4.00

I replaced both in the game, but when I turned on game it doesn't appear to boot. Lights come on, but game doesn't start. Removed the new main ROM (but left display) and replaced with original, and game booted after asking me to open door.

Question 1: Is there something I should be doing to help it boot with new ROM chip, or is it missing something else that needs to be added for the new ROM chip to work?

Question 2: Aside from display working as expected, how can I check that updated ROM is functioning properly, what has changed?

Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.

Make certain the fuses are actually s!ow blow (time delay) fuses. Make sure that no instantaneous coils are struck on. This could be a simple case of things getting jostled in transportation.

I did find a wire to a T. rex switch came loose from its lug on the switch and was actually touching the other switch lug. Hoping that’s why I had a bunch of fuses blow. The pin worked perfect at sellers.

Wow,
I seriously thought they were both made by the same company...

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Hello guys,

Maybe this is interesting to few Data East owner. I have created an electronic ball trough sensor board for my Jurassic Park. I've got a hint, that most probably it will work in GNR, Tommy, LAH, TFTC, WWFRR as well.
If you are interested, please check my post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-club/page/96#post-4743040

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This looks interesting.

Can you elaborate on the pro's of having it?
Will you be selling these?

Advantages:
-Immediate response from ball trough
-No more clogging, smooth ball movements in ball trough
-No more X balls missing message
-No more strange strange behaviour during multiballs

Here is a typical ball trough issue at 4:20, after left drain.

Yes, I will produce a small batch.

Like I said in my PM....I am definitely interested!

Thanks

Definitely interested in one as well.

Had a R n B. Loved it til it got stolen. Would like another. The only thing that got annoying was if someone left a ball in shooter lane and walked away. The annoying music keeps going forever. I wish there was a timer for that.

chasing logo shooter rods for my hook and my secret service if anyone can help, also a good secret service ramp if such a thing exists outside a machine

Have a row of the backbox burned out in a Jurassic Park. What connector is this? Had trouble tracing it.
Top half is out.

Can anyone tell me if the flippers on Time Machine are supposed to do a lane change on the lane lights up top?