Happy 1000th post DE fans!

Hooray! I need backbox hinges for a Laser War. Please help

Wish I could! Good luck finding one.

Anyone interested in a GIzmo led smoother for GI for system 11 and data east? It’s to kill the strobe effect in the GI when the lights flicker on and off and makes them shut off more like incandescents. I’ve decided to put in something a little more programmable. Asking $50 for it and it’s maybe been used a total of 3 hours. I’d include shipping for free if within the US.

Hey everyone,

Hoping someone can guide me here.

I am working on a Time Machine that powers up lights, but nothing else. Watched a lot of videos and read a lot of threads and I tracked it to the PS board +5v is only putting out about 2v on the TP and CN6. 12v appears normal.
Rectifier and power coming in seems good as well.

So far here is what I've found:
I am going to replace the C2(bad), C3(looks like it was okay but going to just replace it anyway) , C4 most videos say to go ahead and replace it), Broke F1 fuse holder clip so will replace that.

I checked the diodes and D6 and D8 were showing values both ways. I took them out of the circuit and they are showing only 1 way so I assume that means they are good. My question is, is it normal for these two to show both ways in the circuit? Is this a symptom of another issue I need to look for?

Also unclear how to check 2N6057 on the heat sink. I see lots of people say to check it for 5v problems. I tried checking it using the wire leads on the board(C,E,B) as a transistor (not powered, out of the pin), but I'm not really clear if I'm doing it right.

Thanks for any assistance.

Hey All! We’ve had our Batman for about two weeks now, and we LOVE it. Added the PinSound board and working on upgrading the power supply to support it. I can’t believe that I waited so long to get a pinball (of course, cost was a big factor) but these machines are a ton of fun.

Just change every cap out on the board and especially change that transistor out. Or buy a new xpin power supply. Problem solved

I picked up a LAH recently, my first Data East game. Only replaced drop targets and a couple LEDs but overall really good. I removed the battery holder to install a remote holder and found this on the backside. Pins 1 and 2 on the back of CN-10 which are switch returns 7 and 8 have wires soldered on that then are soldered together next to pin1 but I’m not sure what that is. What was somebody fixing here? The switches on 7 and 8 register correctly I just want to understand since clearly something wasn’t right.

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It looks like the two wires together may be for a ground connection. No way for us to tell why that was added unless we see where it goes on the other side. Only a portion is pictured.

Batman with Pinsound is absolutely fantastic!
You have to have the Data East power booster for your Pinsound with Batman. I don't know why they don't explain this a more on the Pinsound site, you almost have to search for it.
My Batman's sound was cutting out, I pulled my Xpin from another game to see if it was my Power Supply and it still cut out. Ordered this pretty simple solution and it hasn't skipped since..
https://www.pinsound.org/shop/index.php?id_product=41&controller=product&id_lang=1

One thing about data east games that I never realized was that the DE power box is cheap as hell to replace.

I'm going through a few simultanious restorations (GNR, TOMMY,Rocky, and Jurassic Park)and I went to refurbish the power boxes. These things don't clean up very easily. They are often rusty after sitting around for 30 years. The power cords were sometimes replaced and often times not well.

Pinballlife stocks msot of the parts needed to build the power supply and beautify the box back to shining like new and all for $13.95

Stern Power Box $3.95:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2836

Line Filter $6.95:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2821

Power Cord $2.30 (Wait until these are on sale):
https://www.grainger.com/product/1FD89?cm_mmc=EMT-_-OrderConf2018NavBar-_-Online-KPIRPE-_-Item&RIID=47757867335&GID=&mid=OrderConfirmation&rfe=ffc3f7ef6a5370e3a7f4f97255bc5baf8c867f93e307eebe60d13083a86545bd

Varistor $.75:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=V130LA20AP

Total: $13.95

Optional:
New Fuse Holder $9.95
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4997

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The part cut off of the picture is the same wires looping back. They had tape over a section and here’s with the tape off. Not sure what this is. Both wires have one and then meet back up and are soldered together on the board.

Also it is on the backside of RA16 not CN10. I looked at the wrong part there.

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It looks like a potentiometer between the data line and ground. The could adjust the resistance across one of the built in resistors on that resistor pack. Is that resistor pack cracked on the other side?

I've seen a lot of weird things but this is a new one that I haven't come across yet. I really don't know what they were thinking and those should probably be pulled off and the solder connections cleaned up on the board.

I think it makes sense now. Measuring all the other pins on RA16 to ground were in the 500s and these as well. I pulled the wire off pin2 and measured to the ground without it and it wasn’t measuring. So something went wrong in the resistor array and this was to bypass it. I will get a replacement 560 x 8 sip. Thanks.

Okay Data East people, where should these grounding wires be connected? I feel like they shouldn't just be hanging out in the backbox. Thanks

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Thanks!

Anyone else like to replace the metal posts with standard star posts? I like the look better as it lets more light shine through.
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Also, have a new power board if anyone interested

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

Replacement Power Supply For Data East Games, 520-5047-00 Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Ended up not needing this power supply board ordered new from ksarcade.net. Compatible with the following: Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends, Batman (Data East), Bat...”

2018-08-26

Cumberland, RI

Rascal_H

100 (Firm)

Archived after: 40 days

Viewed: 92 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

That looks nice, hafta give the posts some consideration... thx

I did on my Rocky and Bullwinkle. I saw it in one of the other R&B threads I think.

Replace C2 and C3 and it's working. Only thing left to track down are the flasher/under the ramp millions board which aren't working

Edit: Correction - the only lights not working are the 2 boards behind the backglass that light up the game name (Time Machine). I am not clear on what flasher set they are supposed to be and they seem to have power going to them and are not burned out. Anyone know what they are called in the manual? Or which jumper they are coming from? When I trace it back it seems like it goes straight to the PS board.

Does this help?
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Data_East_Time_Machine_Tech_Chart.pdf

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what is the value of a used Data East plunger with the DE letters on the knob?

They are still available new for around 35/40 Euro

They are hard to find in the us.

i have a decent used one if someone wants to make an offer

Anyone have a solution idea for ball hop to the flippers? I’ve tried adjusting the entire flipper mech position and different flipper rubbers.

The game is LW3.

Do you mean as the ball is rolling from the in lane to the flippers you get a hop instead of it rolling smoothly?

I have had that on both my games. On one the lane guide near the flipper had been hit by the ball so many times it was mushrooming a dented spot. I used a
Hand file and made it flat in about 30 seconds. On my other game I just loosened the screw on the lane guide and pushed it down a hair then re tightened.

On DE Simpsons, can you change the special to award points instead of extra balls? On my Comet you can and it makes going for the special fun in a home setting. In the manual I see that I can set replay to award credit, extra ball, ticket or audit. Not sure what ticket means. The big reward for dropping the enemies 5 bank drop targets on the right the third time is 125k and special is lit in the spinner shot. I find I don't go after the enemies target after 2 times because it's not worth it. I don't want to change it to extra ball as there are already 3 ways to get an extra ball in the game, (mystery award, hitting the enemies twice and then hitting the right VUK, and getting to 6x donuts and hitting the right VUK.)
Thanks

So I went through the audit menu today after work and the game menu for changing the replay value is not what the manual says. In the game menu I can only change it from special to credit to extra ball to none. Anyone know what the difference between special and credit is? I changed it back and forth and both awarded a free game, neither of which are worth going for in the home environment.

Let's get out the vote for DE on this and surprise some people!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-s-your-favorite-pinball-company#post-4574613

On some games, if you make the score threshold...
1) special... lite special lamp on playfield.
or
2) credit... award a instant credit.

Can anyone tell me what fuses are needed for a TFTC original shaker motor? (2.5 amps maybe?)

Confirmed 2.5 amps

Hi Guys,

A little guidance if possible here...

I finally got back my original TFTC which was the first pin I ever owned purchased back in 1997, anyhow other then one or two flaky switches and a sticky upper flipper which a rebuild will address I notice the crypt motor constantly running the tombstone up and down. I first thought that maybe one of the two switches whether up or down might be flaked but they are both registering fine when up & down . Any idea where to look and why it might be doing this?

Thanks

Check the connectors for the tombstone....one of them is probably disconnected.

Okay I found three, 1 to each switch and the other to the motor all of which were connected fine.

Here is a link to the video of it, does it even without any game starting.

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I'm actually beginning to think that being this happens immediately upon powering on that possibly my Q23 is shorted open. Is there a relay for this motor as well that needs to be checked? I don't see one in the manual but maybe I over looked it?

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles is my first and only Data East machine. I own this and one other pin (HS2). TMNT was given to my wife and I from her aunt about 7-8 years ago and it basically went into storage. Honestly, I didn't have the pinball bug then and didn't spend any time on it. I wouldn't have known what to do anyway. When it had to come out of storage, I asked my friend @wrd1972 if he could hold on to it for a while and if interested, see if it needed any work. Not only did he agree to help me out, he went WAY over and above and did a very thorough restoration. Everything tested, removed, cleaned, replaced any broken parts, and improved it in many ways. Colored LEDs w/ OCD, new LED DMD, and lots of personal touches. I've done a few more tweaks myself and am keeping it clean. Although I know TMNT generally isn't the most sought after machine, it's a blast to play and gets a lot of attention from friends and guests. My 13 yo son's buddy's love playing this game. Being my first one and given from family, I'll likely hang on to this forever.

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I'd love to have a TMNT... awesome of your friend to bring it back to life.

Yeah, I've had pretty much every game and I like the turtles, no matter what anyone says! Yes they are collectable due to theme, but not among the diehard pinball people. I gave one to my brother last christmas because his boys are huge fans. My sister in law is very religious so she installed a modesty patch over you know where, lol. I told my brother to leave it on quarter pay and make the kids earn it, not to put on free play. They really like it. I have one as well.

General data east question....

I can't seem to be able to get into the adjustments menu.

I can get in diagnostics and cycle through no problem...but when I press in the other button I still get the diagnostics menu.

Everything on the outside seemed OK so I took off the bracket that holds the two buttons for the adjustments and diagnostics. There doesn't appear to be any issue and the solder points are very strong.

Anyone else have a hard time getting into the adjustments menu?

Thanks

Try locking or unlocking the backglass lock - from memory there is a switch there that interacts with the adjustments

None of those things worked. But pressing and holding down the white coin door switch and then pressing the green + black buttons got it into adjustments. It's finicky but it worked. Thanks guys