Turns out... Steve Young has the kit, and is cheaper to buy the kit vs put one together and he has the red towers, marco only has the gray towers... yea! I love to pay separate shipping charges between 3 companies!!!

Hooked up with this honey of a "Torpedo Alley"! I wanted this machine for a long time and never thought I would find one in this condition!

Great weekend ...

Time to finish up the leds and flashers.Also add new speakers a blue led display .

IMG_8390.JPG

IMG_8410.JPG

IMG_8452.JPG

Awesome. Was that the one for sale at $2600?

No , this was not the one currently in the market for $2600

That 2600 is the overpriced pin wow one. He jacks up all the prices to retail

good looking machine and hope it brings years of enjoyment

Thanks Gryphun!

If the pop bumper bodies were Williams (shallow top lip) then the red
plastic cooling towers had a greater chance of survival against the up
and down pounding that the bumpers produced.

Are you saying I should change the pop bumper bodies to the williams?

I need to rebuild the pop bumpers on the Simpsons, are the parts the same as Williams system 11, (minus bracket and coil) ?

Edit:
Did a bunch of research today; found all the DE parts I need

Many hours later and I have completed my cleaning of Torpedo Alley.. Added new plastics and some kickass LEDS..
It is hard for me to believe how great this one is turning out.

Next = Rotten Dog LED blue display and touchups on cabinet and head.

IMG_8599.JPG

Sexy! Great job frankmac.

Thx Jtm3

The "red" cooling towers had an angel and along with the short rods
caused the lip of the Data East pop bumpers to crash against the "red"
plastic and rip the assemblies from the small angle brackets that mounted
the plastic red towers. (That is why they are broken in the first place).
I do not know if Stern has changed the angel on the "gray" cooling
towers.
Wiliams pop bodies had a shallower lip and those gave an "air" gap
between the "red" cooling tower plastic and the top of the pop bumper
bodies and thus did not break. ( longer pop bumper rods would have fixed
the problem in the first place ).
One can even sand down the top lip of the Data East pop bumper bodies
in order to achieve the same effect.

Currently own a Star Trek DE 1991. The Enterprise has its NCC-1701 spray painted over with brown. No other spots of the play field are this way. Was this a trademark issue with Paramount that was given a Band-Aid fix?

I've sold TFTC since my last post. Still have TA and no plans to let it go. The early DE's look fantastic with quality LEDs in the play field.

Great advise! I can't wait to rip into it.
Thank you!

ok got the secret service game going thanks to yall ... love it had some flipper fade on left flipper checked and am going to do 3 rebuild kits with solenoids ..... my other question is does anybody know how to check the chip on the display i can handle the logic's but the buffer's are beside me i'm trying to check the udn7180a in positions u9,u10,and u14 looking to see if ya'll would know the ranges of output voltages for that also trying to figure out the udn6118a-1 chips in positions u11,u12,u13,u15 also the 4 cd4050bcn chips in positions u3,u4,u5,u6 looking for what should be coming in and leaving on these chips depending on the state of on or off any knowledge would be very helpful also is there a good way for checking the 7 digit alphanumeric displays and the 7 digit numeric displays off of the board , thanks trying to determine if i should just buy the new display if the displays are good i would like to replace chips and resistors as apposed to spending a lot of money unless i absolutely need to ........

Got my secret service running works great wanna thank those of u that helped... Played for awile, now my left flipper is very slow any ideas on what to look at im considering the rebuild kits

Two DE games I have and really like are LW3 and Secret Service. The latter is a very
fast player with great sound tracks. Would like to find a Time Machine someday.
Steve

Didn't know I was missing out on a club....Thought it was just by machine lol
Got my first pin a few months ago. Wonder how many quarters I spent on Jurassic Park and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles back in the day!

As JP is my favorite of all time, I made a facebook group for owners and some YouTube vids (more to come):

https://www.facebook.com/groups/JurassicParkPinballOwners/?ref=group_cover

20161121_010420327_iOS (resized).jpg

Picked up a Time Machine last night!

IMG_8699.JPG

frankmac
Data East Time Machine is the only contemporary pinball to use
two sound systems.
1) sound card/board
2) chime unit
Great game, have fun.

Thanks, I experienced this last night as I went "Back to the 50s" knocker was going crazy also!!
Great game!

I made a new thread for this, but nobody responded. I thought maybe somebody in here could help.

I know this has been asked before, but I have yet to see a solution to the problem. TMNT has 3 settings for lighting the TURTLES letters:

Easy: Any lit letters from previous game stay lit for the next played game.
Factory: Any lit letter stays lit between each of the three ball until the game is over, but after the third ball and the game is over the letters reset for the next game.
Hard: Any letter lit on one played ball resets before the next ball.

The problem is the factory setting doesn't seem to work. The factory setting acts like the hard setting. I believe this feature worked correctly before I changed the batteries for the first time and did a factory reset (it was at least three years ago so I can't remember). I have gone through the adjustments and have found nothing. I pulled both the 5B and 5C PROM and reinstalled them. It is the most up to date code I know of 1.04. Does anyone know how to solve this issue as I have been looking for the solution on and off for years. Thank you for any input you wizards can come up with.

Monk

Link to thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tmnt-turtles-ramp-lights

Can anyone grab me some pictures of their tommy mirror assembly? I'm trying to understand how the cam assembly, frame, target, and other parts work. I'm building the assembly and am having trouble figuring out which parts are which according to the manual. All is can find are pics that mainly show the outer cam assembly, if someone could grab a couple pics from the otherside I would appreciate it

http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album397/32_G?full=1

Just yesterday, I installed some original DE legs, complete with inside yellow stickers for my Torpedo Alley. Looks so much better!

Not sure what you mean by inside yellow stickers. Pictures please.

20170228_160543 (resized).jpg

The "yellow stickers" were not used till the early 90's.

Torpedo Alley is a cool game. It sadly needs another
digit.

54B83A6B-C08A-4733-8D83-8411BFE10EAA-3687-000006717A244559_tmp.png

Fancy...

I know Data East Guns-n-Roses had stickers on
the insides of the legs that went to the game.
They were about the game height adjustment.

That is fancy.
Did you get a red plunger spring from pinball life? It's got more power to blast that ball through the habit trail.
Now I gotta go get me some of them fancy yella stickers

Those are Bally legs on your TA!

I've owned quite a few Data East machines from the 80's and almost all of them had original Data East legs and the yellow "smiley face" stickers. Most notably, I bought a HUO BTTF from the original owner, and it had those stickers for certain. Maybe it was on just some late 80's (domestic?) machines.

Screenshot_20170301-123149 (resized).png

I was really just kidding... But now that I look at it, they do appear to be silver with no ribs in the flyer, and not the ribbed "gunmetal grey" Bally type.

Looks more like 1990's Data East LW3. SW. legs.

Anyone know where I can find a flipper mounting base plate for Robocop? One of the "legs" is broken off on the right side and the entire flipper unit sits "lower" to the underside of the playfield, causing the flipper to drag very slightly on the top of the playfield.

When you say legs on the right side, is this they style you have?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-6617-00

Or, this is the replacement I have seen for laser war, but you would need to add the other brackets.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5077-01

You can double check all the part numbers in the "Detailed Breakdown" links here:
http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#DERK

Does someone have a good scan of a Time Machine manual? Mine did come without and the manual from ipdb is hardly readable on many pages...

eBay has a few for sale from time to time..