Check your input voltages from the power supply. Most likely you aren't getting any.

#1 = Fuse?
#2 = fuse holder for that particular fuse?

If fuse tests good it probably means you either have an issue with the power supply or a connector problem.

Go buy a sub $10 DMM at Radio Shack or Harbor Freight or someplace.

They are easy to learn to use, you won't kill yourself. Most importantly, it's the only way you are going to be able to figure out what is wrong short of just buying a bunch of new and expensive boards.

The fact that a known, good working display is also dark on your LW3 almost guarantees it's a power problem. You need a DMM to figure out if you are getting operating voltages sent to the display controller.

You said you swapped DMD's, so I assume you have a compatible game? If so, swap power supplies and see what happens (though be aware Data East went thru several different versions, so make certain it is compatible).

Are the CPU controlled insert lamps on the playfield working?

The problem is obviously in the HV section. First check the fuses with your new meter using the continuity test. It is the switch position in ohms that has a little speaker symbol associated with the position. Touch the leads together and you should hear a continuity tone.

Place the fuse off of the board between your two leads. A tone indicates the fuse is good.

Next closely examine the fuse holders on the power supply board. DE fuse holders commonly break, and break frequently. If the fuse isn't held firmly at both ends you can have a problem.

If the fuses and holders all check OK, then it is on to components on the board. To determine the problem you will need to reinstall the board and measure the voltages associated with the DMD.

M13