Go into the single lamp test and scroll through all the single lamps. Only the one lamp showing on the DMD should be on at the time. Make note of any that come on when they should not be. Likely problem is in a row or column stuck on by a transistor in the lamp matrix.DE SW lamp matrix (resized).png

Or even a lamp diode smashed and shorting out to the lamp socket?

Would be nice if you started your own repair thread so it can be found more easily in the future for others that have the same problem with their Robocop. Also, the issue found on this thread likely may not help find your exact problem but it may help diagnose it. Link a video to your thread from youtube if you can post there. Run the single lamps test and mark up a lamp matrix chart showing all the lamps you have issues with. Can you snap and post picture of some of those lamp boards installed in the thread as well.

sqloud please click on 'edit' of your first post and add Star Wars in your title. It will be helpful in finding this repair thread in the future.

The relay on the power supply is for the GI lights.

GI (6VAC) and the insert lamps (18VDC if I recall correctly) are 2 different voltages.

2 Separate voltages, 2 separate lamp circuits. The MPU board controls the lamp matrix as to which is supposed to light the correct insert lamps at the right time.

F7 (.5 amp) fuse is for the High Voltage for the DMD. Not related. I do see some electrolyte from a leaking capacitor that would need to be addressed, but also not related to the lamp matrix issue.

If you really had an issue with a voltage on the power supply, none of your insert lamps would be on or flashing. Your problem is either on the MPU or under the playfield (wiring, diode, socket, or connections).

Please post a picture of your MPU. I do know if you have any of the transistors in the bottom right 2 rows on the MPU having the transistor tabs touching together, it can cause these types of issues that you show in your video.

Yes, I agree a full cap kit is needed as C1, C2, C3, and C7 are the main ones that leak (ones that cause 5volt issues and eventually boot failure) and as you can see what I had boxed off the damage looks like battery corrosion. Unfortunately, most of these capacitors are very tough to get out without damaging the board.

Still, this is for boot failures, not the current insert lamp issues.
DE SW power supply (resized).png

Ok. Glad to see none of the transistors touching each other, but that means more digging into the lamp matrix circuit, wiring, lamp sockets and their diodes.

Can you try a 1 amp fuse in F7?

Can you notice the same bulbs are constantly lit in attract mode? It seems the single lamp test should show up just as just as quoted above, even though are very dim.

Also, it would be good to know if you recently or in the past changed any lamp sockets? If so, it would be good to inspect to be sure the lamp socket is wired correctly with the diode and wires to the correct solder lugs.

If none of the lamp sockets were changed, it would be good to inspect those #44 lamp sockets that are stuck on to see if the lamp socket solder lugs are touching one another.

Well, if the DMD was indeed working with a 5amp fuse, then 1amp fuse should be ok to try. If it blows with a 1amp now, you definately will need to rebuild the High Voltage section. Or else buy a new power supply. I do not recommend a Rottendog power supply.

C2, C3, and C11 are more of a problem than C7 is at the moment. You can see the dark areas in the traces of the yellow boxed areas. That is the electrolyte that is traveling down the traces.
Looks to be that either C3 or C11 R4, C5, R3, R2, R7 and D4 to have been affected as well. Not sure how IC1 got affected other than by fumes from one of those capacitors near it.

I will caution again that these capacitors are tough to remove. You may want to consider sending your board to get repaired.

This is definitely the best place to check right now. Any lamp sockets or diodes that were replaced. Were they wired correctly? Miswiring can look like a lamp matrix transistor is locked on causing others to dimly light.

Please post pictures of ones you had changed.

During attract/game play/nor in the single lamp test mode, regular incandescent bulbs should not be acting the way you show in your video.

That is a good voltage running in attract mode. Voltage is not the issue from the power supply.