fuses in my home were blown.
Do you have too many things plugged in on that outlet.

16-18 C is about 62 through 64 degrees ferinheight that is a bit cold for a pin so when you power on the machine give it about 10-15 minutes to warm up.Try it and see if this makes any difference.Post back the outcome

check the voltages on the power supply on power up and see if they creep up. I am just about 100% positive you only need to redo caps on that power supply and it will be good to go. Bridge may be getting tired as well and these suffer from bad header pins. Post a picture of the board if you like.

In particular The 2 small ones at the bottom left and bottom right of the big heat sink. There is not a data east game I have owned that did not need these 2 replaced soon as I got the game home. They always leak. Use a higher voltage but same value of cap to ensure long life.
I can look at my manual if you need actual location numbers and cap values.
Easy fix tho. Great game.

5 volt caps on power supply are bad, I thinks c2 is the one, but don't have schematic in front of me

Yup those 2 are the ones I said to replace. I believe one is a 100uf and the other is a 330 uf but check your schematic. One has a leg attached to the bridge rect. and the other is right by the connector on the left side of the board below the heat sink.
Replace them with higher voltage examples.

5 bucks says they are leaking. Mine were when I got them. Lw3 JP RnB all of them had leaky bad caps there.

Ok from what I can see it looks like c2 has been leaking a little. Replace that and c7 as well. Before you do though try pressing on the fuses hard into the board. If the holders y out right away replace them. Weak fuse holders are extremely common on data east games. Replace with quality parts. Upgrade the voltage rating of the caps to 50 v at least They will last WAY longer.
It is advisable to take voltage readings before you begin as well. If the bridge is slowing waking up after being on for a while replacing the caps will not help.
The caps need doing regardless

Upgrade the bridge to a 3506 lug bridge if its failing. IE if the fuse clips are good and your 12v is low and slowly creeps up over time its time to replace it. Report back with the voltage readings from the power supply test points when first turned on.

Are you able to use a DMM? I can send you a link of how to if you need. Get a good quality meter if you do not have one.
No worries. You'll get it figured out.

plus the 5 volt regulator supply fuses look dirty or corroded. remove clean replace. they are the 2 7a SBs beside each other on their own.
Check all the rest as well.

3506 is what you want. 3501 is 100 volt max and 3506 is 600 volt max. Much better part . Most games flash power to coils on power up [at least the older ones do] But repairing the power supply may lessen or eliminate that. Game should fire and boot up quick not take forever. All kinds of weird things happen when low power condition occurs.
Set to dc volts and place the ground probe to ground and put the positive on the top right corner power supply test points. Let me know what you find.

You can use the cabinet ground strap that wraps around everything. Can use an alligator clip to keep it in place while you measure with the other hand. set it to 200 which is 3 more clicks to the right and measure again. Do be careful. Only touch the one test point at a time and keep your hand on the probe.

As an important safety note, When measuring HV keep other hand in your back pocket that way no errant shocks across your heart.

If you are unsure at all find a tech or a fellow pinsider close to you or someone with electrical knowledge to walk you through it. Basic skills are universal when dealing with electricity.

Additionally you can go to pinrepair.com and click on the beginners link and read away. Clay's guides are excellent.

Ok awesome! Good job. Your -12 is fine and your 12 volts is very low and so is the 5 volts. Replace those 2 caps I suggested and read the test points again. The 5 volt section can drag down the bridge making the 12 volt low when the caps are bad.
Let me know what you get for voltages after the caps are done.
Cheers

This has been a great thread. Im gonna test mine too this weekend as I have random dmd issues and think this may be the culprit!

Actually Mahoyvan yours may be the dmd controller board power supply header. They very often have weak connectors and make a faulty connection to the 5 volts. Try redoing the connector with trifurcon pins first.

c7 is a 330uf 25v radial electrolytic cap. Get 50v instead. Same thing but better part. The other one is c2 which is a 100uf cap. get 50 volt also in radial .
Should be some better readings on your test points after that.

does not matter if they are bigger. Higher the voltage usually the bigger they are. Only matters if you have a size constraint which you do not. Those fit right in where they should. I have put larger ones in the same spots.

More important to make sure to remove the old ones very carefully. Also, once new ones are installed, make sure they meter out to where they should connect too to make sure they are making good contact.

Almost there! hang in there eh.
Cheers

Hey great job! Glad I could help. Always happy to lend a hand. Fun game.
As your game says...Were back in action!
Cheers!

yup. easy peasy. Check the coil first to see if that's what fried the driving transistor. If less than 2 ohms clip the diode and test again if still less than 2 ohms replace coil. If its fine after clipping diode replace the diode with another 1n4004.

After that check the driving transistor for the kicker because it is bad and needs replacing. Test components up stream to make sure that's as far as it went.

And it may not be the coil. Sometimes transistors just go. For example I had one go for no reason in my TAXI just age and I pulled the board and replaced it everything else was fine. put it back in and 2 games later took out a different one. Same thing just failed from age.
Very common to happen no sweat.

I will check the schematic and see. As for checking the coil you need to set your meter to 200 ohm setting . Or 6 clicks or notches to the left. Then retest.
Yes you can test transistors in the game on the board it just can be tricky due to access sometimes. You want to test Q 5 on the PPB board first and that coil needs a diode on it thats why the transistor blew as soon as it fired.
Do you know how to install one ?
Let me know what the coil reads and we can go from there.
Cheers

coil is fine but needs a diode. 1n4004 is the type . Install across the terminals on the coil like this...purple and grey wire to non banded side of diode and yellow and violet wire to banded side of diode. Understand what I mean?
And the tip 36 is dead and needs replacing for sure.
Do you have a temp controlled soilder station?
Hang in there. Almost done.

And you are very welcome and happy new year back at ya my friend! CHEERS!

the diode acts as a shunt or block for power to not spike back to the logic upon firing. Kind of like a one way valve for water but for power.
With no diode there as soon as it fired it back spiked and killed logic components. Examine other coils on your game and install the diode the same way and attach the wires to the terminals I listed earlier. Power ALWAYS goes to the banded side of the diode.

grab a cheap temp controlled station from anywhere. They are indispensable when needed. Shoot me a pm anytime if you like.

The best vodka in the world is made close to you so at least you have some thing to help ease the wait.
Cheers