(Topic ID: 2314)

Data East Jurassic Park Coil Issues / Blowing Flipper F1 Fuse

By harryhoudini

13 years ago



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#1 13 years ago

Hello Pinside Folks!

I'll try to keep this basic. Been rebuilding parts of my JP and recently the right lower flipper was getting twitchy and intermittent. Figured I might as well replace the coil, it looked old and unwound a bit. Throw the new coil on and it blew up the flipper board. Ended up replacing R4 (toast) and R3 and D1 which were "blackened". Without the right coil in I plugged it all back in and it works. I did find that either a fuse was blown already (or blew in this process) and that several of the fuses on the flipper board were the wrong rating. I replaced them all with new 3A slo-blo and fuse F1 blows as soon as the game powers up.

I did find the info here: http://www.pinrepair.com/de/index3.htm#factory about the wire shorting on the upper right flipper. I did a cursory search and didn't see anything wrong. Any troubleshooting steps I can take to track down the issue? Now I am assuming the coil was not really bad or going bad but maybe a short is what caused the flipper issues and is what is blowing the fuse now?

Any help is appreciated!

#2 13 years ago

Are you sure you soldered the wires back on correctly? If you switched wires you could have done a lot of damage.

F1 controls the lower right flipper high power.

Check all diodes and transistors on the Solid State Flipper Board (.5 to .7 volt range on the diode DMM test). If all seem fine, this can often be attributed to the 4093 chips on the solidstate flipper board (replace both of them and use sockets).

If replacing the power fuse and it blows immediately, replace the TIP36 transistor on the flipper board associated with that flipper. The TIP36 transistor is easily checked with a DMM. If a TIP36 has an internal short this will blow the power fuse immediately, allowing only the hold's TIP32 transistor to make the flipper move "up". Also check the S2800B Silicon Controlled Rectifiers.

#3 13 years ago

Thank you very much!

I posted some specific pics here: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/688d6745c7be7cf5/5fdb3b232e4f748b#5fdb3b232e4f748b

Should be the last post and I'm pretty sure I followed the proper alignment. Possibly originally I had it backwards, hard to say now, so that could be what caused the issue.

Would you mind expanding on the specifics of a few items:

- I assume the "4093" chips are the 3 black microchip looking items with a 4093 in the number on top? Can you tell me how I know if those are bad or what to replace them with specifically (link to part)?

- What would be the procedure for checking the diodes and transistors? Do I need to unsolder all of them to manually test with my DMM?

- I read a bit about testing transistors but don't know exactly what to look for. Not sure what "type" of transistor it is and which legs are which.

- Are the rectifiers the items with the heat syncs on them? How would I check those?

Thanks!!

#4 13 years ago

Quick update... found out that the TIP36C transistor was dead too. On order, that might be the whole issue.

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