Data East Hook Windcoaster Ramp causes Sound Card to cut out

(Topic ID: 189542)

Data East Hook Windcoaster Ramp causes Sound Card to cut out

By bdPinball

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by bdPinball
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


Linked Games

  • Hook Data East, 1992

Topic Gallery

One image has been uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_0816 (resized).PNG

#1 1 year ago

The strangest thing seems to happen when you shoot the ball up the windcoaster- It causes the sound card to cut out for a split second.

It doesn't happen in test mode, burn-in, or the switch test mode. I Wonder if it has something to do with the Power supply - It's a Rottendog replacement - but the problem seems to happen after it fires the "Switched flashers" or something. I started a game, and put the ball in my pocket. With the game running, I activate the Wind Coaster switch, and it flashes the lamps on the backboard, then you hear a little "click" or beginnings of static through the speaker, and then the sound cuts out.

Any suggestions on how to debug this - or better yet fix it for good?



#3 1 year ago

I have the Rottendog board in mine, it caused the same problem until I was able to hack the board to fix it. You'll see on the board there are some jumpers to change the 12V line between regulated and unregulated. I had problems using both, one way the audio would break up as you are seeing and the other way the entire sound board would reset.

I ended up having to modify the board to drive the sound board from the unregulated 12V and the windcoaster lighting from the regulated 12V. No more problems after this. You could try changing the jumper to 12VU and see if yours is OK, if not you'll need to do something more.

#4 1 year ago

Ok so that's two brands that have this issue due to lack of 12v current carrying capacity: X-Pin and Rottendog. What's the deal here? Why is it so difficult for aftermarket manufacturers to get this right? Just add a bridge rectifier and 18,000uf 25v capacitor and you're done. There is absolutely no need for a regulated 12v rail, all they do is cause issues!

Stuff like this has caused me to start buying refurbished OEM power supplies again.

#5 1 year ago

This solved the exact same problem on my hook with RD board

IMG_0816 (resized).PNG

2 weeks later
#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Jtm3:

This solved the exact same problem on my hook with RD board

Is there any way you could shoot me a pic of the jumper you changed to affect this change? I didn't take the board out yet, but when I was looking at the board mounted in the game I couldn't seem to locate that Rs1/Rs2 on the power board. What does RS stand for anyway? I gather it just a piece of wire instead of an actual resistor.


Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 369.95
From: $ 9.99
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 299.00
From: $ 15.95
Machine - Wanted
Drums, PA
$ 4.95
Apparel - Unisex
$ 7.00
Various Other Swag
Project Pinball Charity
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 7.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 76.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 30.00
Playfield - Decals
$ 68.00
$ 40.00
Lighting - Other
Professor Pinball
From: $ 149.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
$ 71.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
$ 114.00
Lighting - Backbox
The MOD Couple

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside