(Topic ID: 273271)

Dare I make this?

By ravve

3 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by ravve
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

I am troubleshooting why my friends Williams The Shadow.

So, is there any way to fix continuty errors without remove the board?
I am looking for a solution without removing the board.
Also, found a pic on internet of the boards back, it seems that there are no traces on the back i.e. only a solder point to the fuse, thats it. I suspect the traces are in a layer between the front and the back, am I right? So even if I remove the board I am not sure how it will help...

Opinions?

#3 3 years ago

I rather not remove the board if i can avoud it. The reason is that im afraid to break a pin or something when remove all the connectors. Hm maybe i can unscrew the board but let the connectors be attached and just tip over the board to its back and do the solder?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

dont pull on the wires grab the plastic housing for each connector and you will be fine.

Plz can u explain that further? Not sure i understand what u mean should i connect a wire on the backside between the fuse and j115 connector leg?

#6 3 years ago

Ok, now i discovered that J115-2 (that goes to F106) and J115-3 (should go to F110) are connected together.
So, there is no continuty F110 to J115-3 BUT there is continuty from J115-3 to F106 (as well as J115-2 to F106).
This cant be right??!

#8 3 years ago

@emsrph: wow, thanks for that reply!
My last question is: I measured continuty between all pins on j115, there is continuty between them all but only when measured on the cable. If measured directly on the pins there is no continuty between them, exept for between pin 2 and 3... is this correct?

Really appreciate your help guys!

#10 3 years ago

That is exactly what I am suspecting, no continuty should be between pin 2 and 3 i think (when cable is off).
I havent removed the board yet, but yes it seems like f110 has been soldered before at one leg.
The only light that aint working is a 5 lights pcb at the rear, behind the playfield (according to the manual GE string 1 goes to those), maybe my easiest fix is to connect those lights to some other GE string and problem will be solved... is that doable or will it be overload on that other GE string?

this is not a showstopper for me so i rather fix it without removing board if possible.

1 week later
#12 3 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

No, I wouldn't double up any other GI string with these additional lights. It's probably heat that killed this connector's header and adding lamps would not be a good idea.

Just a thought: When people connects extra lighting (spotlights etc) to the playfield, where do these usually connect to? One of the GI strings? My issue is only the 5xlamps PCB, if I could hook it up somewhere else I would be satisfied, just as if it was an extra (not from factory) lighting... If it is possile to connect extra lightings, then why shouldn´t I be able to do it with the 5xlamps PCB?

#14 3 years ago

OK, so where is the correct place to connect extra lighting to (or maybe the correct way is to connect extra lighting to an extra power supply or similar)?
How about changing the GI lighting to LED, the load on the GI strings should then be significally less, hence making it possible to connect more lights... or?

Is there a way I can measure how much current is flowing to a GI string, so I can know if it has more capacity (or if the string already is overloaded)? Maybe it is not the current that should be measured?

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