(Topic ID: 183397)

'Dialed In' by 'JJP'


By frankmac

2 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PinballSTAR
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There are 1686 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 34.
#1201 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Can new transistors be put on the board like older pins?

That was my thought as well but they wanted it back instead. Strange diode too that I didn't have on hand but Transistors i had. Board had solder on the back so that's thru-hole enough for me?

#1202 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

That was my thought as well but they wanted it back instead. Strange diode too that I didn't have on hand but Transistors i had. Board had solder on the back so that's thru-hole enough for me?

Although some customers are more than capable of fixing their boards, policy is to make it easiest on them by swapping I/O boards instead.

#1203 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Although some customers are more than capable of fixing their boards, policy is to make it easiest on them by swapping I/O boards instead.

Oh for sure and I understand. They don't want me trying to send back a hacked up board and I don't want to have to pay a ton of cash to replace one.

Stern did the same thing and all they did was ad a resister to a Node.

14
#1204 1 year ago

After thinking I was getting the game Friday, it missed docking by 2 hours. So we finally got it setup tonight. Played for 4 hours straight with Krisitn and another buddy. Amazing.

#1205 1 year ago

I got the full Cliffy set installed tonight. They don't affect play at all and I feel a lot better with them in place.

#1206 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Although some customers are more than capable of fixing their boards, policy is to make it easiest on them by swapping I/O boards instead.

I know the WOZ I/O board is very serviceable, but out of pure curiosity... have all JJP games so far basically used the same I/O board or has it been revised?

#1207 1 year ago
Quoted from merccat:

I know the WOZ I/O board is very serviceable, but out of pure curiosity... have all JJP games so far basically used the same I/O board or has it been revised?

Here's the board from my DI/LE - the copyright date is 2012. Someone with a WOZ and TH can weigh in...

2017-07-27 15.31.36 (resized).jpg

(Note the capacitor broken off in transit; JJP overnighted me a replacement board. )

[EDIT: flipped the photo to match the board's orientation in the machine.]

#1208 1 year ago

DI and hobbit use the fully populated version and WOZ does not, but it's the same board and backwards compatible also, although prototype WOZ use a different board setup owing to having the led controllers on a separate board. Of note also is that all WOZ games prior to 2.0 LED system (so most WOZ games) use two USB to USB mini cables running from the motherboard to the right front side of the I/O board; WOZ 2.0 and later games have one cable feeding that section of the I/O board.

#1209 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Right I had waxed it and it was topside work only, so I have no damn idea what did it, if anything. And that coil is tucked tightly under the apron, with the lugs hanging out just a smidgeon under the PF. There is the big steel bracket next to the coil but I don't see how they could touch; It's a mystery.

It's possible that the diode was bad or not soldered correctly causing the transistor to fail. The fact that it happened after you cleaned it may just be a coincidence.

If the circuit is similar to Williams' games, ie. the drive transistor output pulls the coil terminal to ground, I wouldn't expect shorting the coil to ground or across it's terminals to damage the transistor.

#1210 1 year ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

It's possible that the diode was bad or not soldered correctly causing the transistor to fail. The fact that it happened after you cleaned it may just be a coincidence.

Oh I think it's coincidence for sure.

#1211 1 year ago

Just to give an idea on Cliffy installation, I was able to do the entire set in under an hour, but I didn't have to install the SIM card hole (that came installed from the factory). Here's what you need to do for each protector.

Left drop slot protector:
Simply remove the nut that attaches the right ramp to the upper post on the left sling. Lift the ramp up a bit and slip the protector into place. It's also a good time to change out your slingshot rubber if it's showing wear.

Right drop slot protector:
Same process as the left, just on the other side of the playfield. One nut to remove.

Kickout protector:
Like with any Stern, you will need to remove the apron. Everything will be straightforward here as you go. 5 minutes and you're set.

Skill shot slot protector:
You don't need to remove anything to install this protector, but it's easier if you remove the upper playfield. If you are going to be putting a protector on your phone scoop, you'll need to remove the upper playfield anyway. Might as well do it now and make life easier. The upper playfield is removed with only two screws. Both screws are small Philips heads and you can find one on the left middle part of the upper playfield. It goes down into the left pop bumper. The second screw is on the lower right part of the upper playfield, and it anchors into the lower right pop bumper. After removing these screws, you can move the upper playfield out of the way.

Once you move the upper playfield, it's easy to put the slot protector in place. Make sure the longer side is on the top side of the slot.

Phone scoop protector:
If you haven't already removed the upper playfield, check the skill shot slot protector to see how. You will need to remove the upper playfield as well as the phone from their anchors. The phone comes next, but it's just a couple of nuts that you can find on the left side of the phone. These two nuts go into posts, one is slightly larger than the other. After removing the nuts, lift the phone straight up to free it from the posts (make sure the phone's wiring isn't caught in the scoop, it should lift easily). Set the phone aside, being careful not to scratch the screen. You don't need to disconnect any wiring.

With the phone removed, you need to remove the two posts that are next to the scoop that have the rubber post sleeves. You ONLY need to remove these posts, don't remove the ones that have the rubber rings on them. To remove these posts, you need to remove a nut from the underside of the playfield for each one. When tilting the playfield up, make sure that the phone and mini playfield aren't swinging around. They'll hang just fine, but be gentle with how you lift and lower the playfield. Remove the nut from each post. Afterwards, each post can be carefully tapped from the bottom to be lifted from the topside.

With both posts removed, put the scoop slot in place. I find this easiest with the playfield in a vertical position so you can immediately put the two posts back in when the protector is in place. Don't force anything and risk bending the protector. If it doesn't lay flat, you don't have something aligned correctly. Put the two posts in, and slowly tighten the two nuts back on to secure the posts. Don't over tighten the posts or you can cause the protector to flex and it won't lay perfectly flat, and you can even damage your clearcoat. Snug plus a tiny extra turn is just enough.

Replace the phone first with the two nuts and then the mini playfield.

----

I played several games after and none of the protectors have changed how the game plays. Kickbacks can still hit the scoop and you can still make shots from the upper flipper to the SIM hole, the scoop, the ramp, or the targets with ease. The slot protectors don't seem to slow the ball down at all and don't alter play at all. Like everything else Cliffy makes, these protectors are top notch.

#1212 1 year ago

You don't need to to move the ramps for the slot protectors and you don't need to touch the mini pf for the phone scoop or skill shot. Full write up with pics I posted in another DI thread. I hate that there are multiple threads for games on similar topics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/8#post-3946003

#1213 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I hate that there are multiple threads for games on similar topics.

Yeah it's really confusing on this one. I have to keep going back and searching thru them all.

#1214 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

You don't need to to move the ramps for the slot protectors and you don't need to touch the mini pf for the phone scoop or skill shot.

You minimize risk to damage to both the protectors and the game by doing so. I wouldn't install those protectors without removing those things. They're not hard to remove and you can work much faster without them in the way.

#1215 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yeah it's really confusing on this one. I have to keep going back and searching thru them all.

DI has about 3, SW has like 8, plus all those stupid polls.

#1216 1 year ago
Quoted from jar155:

You minimize risk to damage to both the protectors and the game by doing so. I wouldn't install those protectors without removing those things. They're not hard to remove and you can work much faster without them in the way.

I had zero issues and the scoop and SIM card took about 20 mins each. The mini pf never even came into play for the phone scoop so I'm confused on that one.

#1217 1 year ago

I'm just confused we're calling it a mini playfield

#1218 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I'm just confused we're calling it a mini playfield

Speaking of this 'mini pf', what is the point? It would seem better if the diverted chick diverted the ball straight into the pops and not onto this pf that even if it makes it through the hole seems to get pops action. Am I missing something?

#1219 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Speaking of this 'mini pf', what is the point? It would seem better if the diverted chick diverted the ball straight into the pops and not onto this pf that even if it makes it through the hole seems to get pops action. Am I missing something?

It's a nudge deal. When you're in a mode that requires pop hits and you hit the ramp, you're going to nudge to get it to drop into the pops rather than roll out the front. It's not a big thing, but it's nice to have a tiny added element there.

Quoted from Lermods:

The mini pf never even came into play for the phone scoop so I'm confused on that one.

It has to come off to lift the phone, which I would recommend moving to minimize damage risk. Maybe my plastics are different or something, but you can't unscrew the phone without moving the mini playfield out of the way.

#1220 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Speaking of this 'mini pf', what is the point? It would seem better if the diverted chick diverted the ball straight into the pops and not onto this pf that even if it makes it through the hole seems to get pops action. Am I missing something?

It's just a way to slow down the ball so it isn't diverted into the same divot. Flo rejection moves the ball so quick there isn;t much time to nudge or anything.

#1221 1 year ago
Quoted from jar155:

I got the full Cliffy set installed tonight. They don't affect play at all and I feel a lot better with them in place.

So u did not have to do a complete teardown right?

#1222 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

So u did not have to do a complete teardown right?

In total, it was less than 10 nuts and screws. Easy stuff.

#1223 1 year ago
Quoted from jar155:

It's a nudge deal. When you're in a mode that requires pop hits and you hit the ramp, you're going to nudge to get it to drop into the pops rather than roll out the front. It's not a big thing, but it's nice to have a tiny added element there.

It has to come off to lift the phone, which I would recommend moving to minimize damage risk. Maybe my plastics are different or something, but you can't unscrew the phone without moving the mini playfield out of the way.

I only removed the plastic piece directly behind the phone, one screw. Then you take the two nuts off the phone bracket with a wrench underneath the plastic and move the phone to the side and you have clear access to remove the two posts.

20170902_102621 (resized).jpg

#1224 1 year ago

The upper playfield helps alot in certain modes when diverted. Also i put all my protectors on with out removing it.

#1225 1 year ago
Quoted from pinaholic:

Sean the Storm playing free pinball at Bloomingdale's

Which Bloomingdale's?

#1226 1 year ago

Jack Danger - Live from VFO! www.VancouverFlipOut.com

JackDANGER-DI (resized).jpg

#1227 1 year ago

New code?!?

#1228 1 year ago
Quoted from pinaholic:

Sean the Storm playing free pinball at Bloomingdale's

Is this a one-off thing or something multiple locations are doing?

Gotta feel for the store clerk who was so proud to have the gc...

1 week later
#1229 1 year ago

I was playing Dialed In on location this morning when QED popped right off his stick!

IMG_1663 (resized).JPG

#1230 1 year ago

The Bloomingdale's in nyc now has the phone screen completely out with just a horizontal line being displayed. Anyone ever see that issue?

#1231 1 year ago
Quoted from Vdrums:

The Bloomingdale's in nyc now has the phone screen completely out with just a horizontal line being displayed. Anyone ever see that issue?

No, but can you power cycle it at least? Sounds like a loose cable though.

#1232 1 year ago

I've had my phone and theater turn off complete/go blank mid game and also during different games have the same screens still work but the display images are very dark/hard to see.
A restart fixes this and all cables seem to be seated properly, not sure what's going on.

#1233 1 year ago

We need LTG !

#1234 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

A restart fixes this and all cables seem to be seated properly, not sure what's going on.

The cables from phone to motherboard, please reseat them a couple times. See if that helps.

If not, then please go to JJP and open a ticket on the support desk.

LTG : )

#1235 1 year ago

Are they running the LE's again? I'm supposed to get mine in a week & a half. Can't wait! Hope my Cliffy's are in by then. (ordered from Cliffy).

#1236 1 year ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

Can't wait! Hope my Cliffy's are in by then. (ordered from Cliffy).

When did you order?

#1237 1 year ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

Are they running the LE's again? I'm supposed to get mine in a week & a half. Can't wait! Hope my Cliffy's are in by then. (ordered from Cliffy).

currently running CE and they start shipping on monday. once they are all boxed up and shipped then the SE/LE will start up again.

#1238 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

When did you order?

I think it was about 2 weeks ago but he said he was a month behind. Should be almost perfect timing

#1239 1 year ago

I ordered an LE a little over a week ago and was told mid-October to get it.

I'm used to cash and carry, this waiting stuff is bullshit! Mind you I haven't bought a NIB since 2011.

#1240 1 year ago

I ordered Cliffys 2 weeks ago. I was on DI list since about June/July. I didn't want to be one of the early ones.

#1241 1 year ago

Jack, Butch Peel & David Thiel will be at Vancouver FlipOut in Canada Sep 22-24 to talk about Dialed In.

Vancouver (resized).jpg

#1242 1 year ago
Quoted from FlipperFreak:

Jack, Butch Peel & David Thiel will be at Vancouver FlipOut in Canada Sep 22-24 to talk about Dialed In.

don't forget and Danger doing a live stream too!

#1243 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

The cables from phone to motherboard, please reseat them a couple times. See if that helps.
If not, then please go to JJP and open a ticket on the support desk.
LTG : )

THX!!

#1244 1 year ago

Just curious what line the top of the bubble level is supposed to be set to?

Don't have a DI yet but play them on location and would like to know if they are set up correctly.

#1245 1 year ago
Quoted from Vdrums:

Just curious what line the top of the bubble level is supposed to be set to?
Don't have a DI yet but play them on location and would like to know if they are set up correctly.

You really sldnt go by the level as its not that accurate. But in most cases it should be to the second or third line.

#1246 1 year ago

Pat Lawlor told me that the nose of the bubble should just bump into the second line.

#1247 1 year ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

I think it was about 2 weeks ago but he said he was a month behind. Should be almost perfect timing

I was told 2-3 weeks for my LE as well(ordered on 9/13).

#1248 1 year ago

I have a serious complaint about JJP - they need to build those LEs faster!

Harumpf.

#1249 1 year ago
Quoted from jar155:

Just to give an idea on Cliffy installation, I was able to do the entire set in under an hour, but I didn't have to install the SIM card hole (that came installed from the factory). Here's what you need to do for each protector.
Left drop slot protector:
Simply remove the nut that attaches the right ramp to the upper post on the left sling. Lift the ramp up a bit and slip the protector into place. It's also a good time to change out your slingshot rubber if it's showing wear.
Right drop slot protector:
Same process as the left, just on the other side of the playfield. One nut to remove.
Kickout protector:
Like with any Stern, you will need to remove the apron. Everything will be straightforward here as you go. 5 minutes and you're set.
Skill shot slot protector:
You don't need to remove anything to install this protector, but it's easier if you remove the upper playfield. If you are going to be putting a protector on your phone scoop, you'll need to remove the upper playfield anyway. Might as well do it now and make life easier. The upper playfield is removed with only two screws. Both screws are small Philips heads and you can find one on the left middle part of the upper playfield. It goes down into the left pop bumper. The second screw is on the lower right part of the upper playfield, and it anchors into the lower right pop bumper. After removing these screws, you can move the upper playfield out of the way.
Once you move the upper playfield, it's easy to put the slot protector in place. Make sure the longer side is on the top side of the slot.
Phone scoop protector:
If you haven't already removed the upper playfield, check the skill shot slot protector to see how. You will need to remove the upper playfield as well as the phone from their anchors. The phone comes next, but it's just a couple of nuts that you can find on the left side of the phone. These two nuts go into posts, one is slightly larger than the other. After removing the nuts, lift the phone straight up to free it from the posts (make sure the phone's wiring isn't caught in the scoop, it should lift easily). Set the phone aside, being careful not to scratch the screen. You don't need to disconnect any wiring.
With the phone removed, you need to remove the two posts that are next to the scoop that have the rubber post sleeves. You ONLY need to remove these posts, don't remove the ones that have the rubber rings on them. To remove these posts, you need to remove a nut from the underside of the playfield for each one. When tilting the playfield up, make sure that the phone and mini playfield aren't swinging around. They'll hang just fine, but be gentle with how you lift and lower the playfield. Remove the nut from each post. Afterwards, each post can be carefully tapped from the bottom to be lifted from the topside.
With both posts removed, put the scoop slot in place. I find this easiest with the playfield in a vertical position so you can immediately put the two posts back in when the protector is in place. Don't force anything and risk bending the protector. If it doesn't lay flat, you don't have something aligned correctly. Put the two posts in, and slowly tighten the two nuts back on to secure the posts. Don't over tighten the posts or you can cause the protector to flex and it won't lay perfectly flat, and you can even damage your clearcoat. Snug plus a tiny extra turn is just enough.
Replace the phone first with the two nuts and then the mini playfield.
----
I played several games after and none of the protectors have changed how the game plays. Kickbacks can still hit the scoop and you can still make shots from the upper flipper to the SIM hole, the scoop, the ramp, or the targets with ease. The slot protectors don't seem to slow the ball down at all and don't alter play at all. Like everything else Cliffy makes, these protectors are top notch.

So which cliffy's come in a cliffy's set and which ones are factory? We just got our games in Oz, and there are no factory cliffy's, but in told they are on the way from JJP. I wonder If I order a complete set for Cliff, will he just send me the ones that aren't currently coming from the factory? Might be handy to know which ones are factory.

#1250 1 year ago

Also, just set mine up and it's very impressive, as are all JJP games.
Couple of really annoying problems:
- My kickback only hits the ball about 1/3 of the time- rest of the time it misses completely (it's too slow) and the ball drains and ball save is activated. Annoying, but more so in multiball as it doesn't activate ball save. Only on a very slow drain will it activate and kickback. Checked the menu for delay settings but couldn't find anything.
- my left main ramp - the balm falls off 50% of the time before the girl up the top. It's not because of her diverter which is up. And when it's down I've only had it divert on to the plastic upper pf thing a couple of times. Only a slow shot will go all around the left ramp.
My game is at 7.3deg. Wondering if this is causing the problems (drain too fast, ball going around the left ramp at the wrong angle).
Anyone else?

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