The schematic on IPDB for Cyclopes is pretty good - worst page is the playfield schematic:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/619/Game_Plan_1985_Cyclopes_Partial_Manual_With_Schematics.pdf

I might have a better one - I have to look.

Solenoid Driver Unit, Lamp Driver Unit, MPU-2 and power supply (PSU-1) schematics are the same for all GP uprights

You've received good advice so far, though before you test the regulator you should check the bridge rectifiers on the PS board. If they are bad then the regulator won't get good power to regulate.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=general#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier

As was suggested, the best way to test a regulator is to apply power to it and measure its output with all the other harness connectors removed. Unless you have other specialized test equipment, there's really no way to test it with a resistance or diode test.

Unplug the machine, Remove all the connectors at the power supply and test the bridge rectifiers per the procedure linked to above. Then test the fuses for function and rating. This photo will help you identify the parts:

Game Plan Power Supply Fuses and Rectifiers

If the fuses and rectifiers check out, plug the machine back in, do not hook up the connectors, turn the machine back on and check the voltages with your multimeter at the test points listed below:

Game Plan Power Supply Test Points

There are two things that are troubling to me about your power supply. First, the wires that are directly connected to the power supply at J1. That could be a problem and is certainly a hack and could be causing you a short which smoked the power supply. Second, the burning at the fuse connector for the GI indicates a possible overfusing and a short somewhere in the GI circuit.

viperrwk

Something is not right with the GI - fuse, connector, wiring. Whatever shorted the GI needs to be corrected. Yeah - the board can be easily fixed - this is not like the MPU board.

viperrwk

The bridges are usually marked, either by one of the lugs being oriented 90 degrees from the other or with a "+" on the outside of the case where the DC positive lead is located.

In your case, the "oddball" lead on the rectifiers are:

Red on the 7v rectifier
Grey on the 24v rectifier
Orange/brown on the 5/12v rectifier

Couple of things to note when you run these tests since these rectifiers are in circuit:

When you test the orange/brown 5/12v lead to the opposite negative side of the bridge (white/green wire), you will initially get a "0" reading and then the measurement will start counting up. This is because you are applying a small voltage to the big capacitor there across the 5v line. If you hold it there for about a minute the reading should stabilize to somewhere between .4 and .6. If it stays at 0 and doesn't move, the bridge is bad.

You should get a lower reading across the positive and negative terminals for the 24v bridge (.2) and the 7v bridge (.03). This is normal as there is a 700 ohm resistor wired across the positive and negative terminal on the 24v bridge and a 100 ohm resistor wired across the positive and negative terminal on the 7v bridge. You should definitely get .4-.6 to the adjacent terminals when testing in both directions. If you get 0 on the adjacent terminal measurements, replace the bridge. If you don't get .2 and .03 across the positive and negative terminals on the two bridges, you first have to suspect the resistors. The 700 ohm resistor you can see in the photo next to J3. The 100 ohm resistor is located at the lower left of the board under the connectors. If those test good, replace the bridge.

viperrwk

Yes - good point, hadn't thought about that. Cyclopes uses the second relay socket on the SDU to turn the GI on and off. The relay is driven by Q9 on the SDU and goes to pin 21 on J1 of the SDU. You can see the top socket populated in the photo. The only production games I know that used this relay are Cyclopes, Andromeda (both for flashing the GI) and Super Nova (for the space lab motor.)

If the GI isn't coming on and Q9 is shorted/bad, then it would be energizing the relay and not allowing the GI to come on. But I'm guessing it's more a wiring issue, especially since the GI fuse connector is burned. And you have to hope the relay is not a problem because replacements are not cheap:

ebay.com link: Sigma 67R4 24DC Relay 67R424DC NOS New Old Stock

viperrwk

_{Post edited by viperrwk: Used my brain to realize how the lights might not be coming on.}

Yep get real comfortable with a soldering iron real quick or this thread is going to end real fast

viperrwk

Are you sure you're using the diode setting on your meter and not the resistance setting? The 1235, 707 and 101 are more like resistance readings than diode voltage readings, especially the last two (given the resistors wired across those bridges). If it's diode, at 1235 bridge 1 is showing open and they usually short to ground.

There are four solenoid controlled lamps on Cyclopes. One behind the "yellow" targets controlled by Q7, one behind the "blue" targets controlled by Q4 and then two "fire" lamps controlled by Q5. I believe this is one of those lamps and if locked on and burned then you have to check Q5 on the SDU.

viperrwk

Well, can't say how that HF meter is supposed to work but I'm going to say that the 7 & 24v bridges are probably fine from your readings. The 5/12 may not be good given the open reading you're getting from positive to negative. The large filter cap could also be bad (high ESR) giving you a bad reading. Cut the zipties, unscrew the terminals and remove the large filter cap - that takes it out of the circuit and you should get normal readings on the bridge if it's ok. If you do, replace the large cap. If not, replace the bridge.

viperrwk

First one - should just screw in after removing the old one and one zip tie to secure it.

viperrwk

I would get a new bridge for the 5/12v line first and then get a new connector on J1 and clean up the power board and make sure nothing is shorting. Once you do that you can plug it in and test the output of the LM323 to see if you're getting 5v. At that point if you're not, you'll have to replace the regulator as well. Since you smoked it you may also need new caps and the diode that's up there. Looks like your meter might test capacitors as well - you'll have to dig out the manual and see if that's the case. You can always just shotgun it all to be on the safe side if you're unsure of your measurements or have someone come in to help you.

viperrwk

And make sure you get one with lug leads and not wire leads so you have something to solder to.

viperrwk

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-repair-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix#post-1309251

viperrwk

Did you disconnect all the connectors from the board and test the voltages at the test poins first? Something is shorting on the GI as indicated by the burning on the PS board. Until you find what that is you will likely continue to blow that fuse.

And did you blow the fuse on the PS or the under playfield fuse for the solenoids?

viperrwk

Did you test the voltages on the power supply?

viperrwk

There is only a loop for ground. The rest are pads. Hook your ground lead from the meter with an alligator clip to the ground loop then hit the test points as outlined below:

Game Plan Power Supply Test Points

The 7, 12 and 24v readings can be high or low since they are not regulated. The 5v reading needs to be close because it is regulated.

If they check out hook up the wires to the PS and hook only J1 on the MPU board and turn the machine on. Hook your ground to the loop at TP7 (below the third bank of DIP switches from the left).

Check for 5v at TP1 (right above the J1 connector) and 12v at TP2 (between U19 and U20). If you have 5 & 12 v at these test points and no flashes, your MPU is dead.

viperrwk

Those are ok. If you get no flashes on the MPU and voltages check out there MPU is dead.

viperrwk

What is your voltage at J1 pin 3? You can also try reseating all socketed chips as they may not have liked the trip.

viperrwk

Which flashers are not working? If it's all of them then you have to suspect the feed wire which comes from the bottom bumper (according to the schematic).

I'm assuming the solenoids are all working now...

viperrwk

Yes bottom pop bumper - power is chained from there to the flashers. Wire comes from the banded side of the coil on the bumper. The two Fire flashers are controlled by Q5, the blue target flasher by Q4 and the yellow target flashers by Q7.

viperrwk

Check for continuity from the pop bumper coil to the flash lamps. Install known good lamps and check for continuity across the sockets. Check for power at the sockets. Check the connector between the backbox and head.

viperrwk

Possibly. The schematic shows a resistor on each lamp so one resistor taking out all the lamps seems unlikely. But you do have cut wires there - you have to trace the wiring and see if it corresponds to the schematic.

viperrwk

You would be better off getting a meter with audible continuity test. You need to verify continuity from the banded side of the lower pop bumper coil to one side of each flash lamp. Each flash lamp should have the same color wire on one side of the socket but each should have a different color on the other side. Since one flash lamp locked on previously, it is possible that the power wire melted and broke the connection preventing all of them from getting power.

viperrwk

And potentially cleared as well (though that would require stripping it).

viperrwk

The schematic for Andromeda calls for an 1155 lamp - 13.5v, 8w, .6a, Ba15s base. I've got to believe it's the same for Cyclopes - doubt they would have used something different.

viperrwk

Likely won't work - that's a 28v lamp.

viperrwk

Did you lose all the GI or just the playfield GI? Did you try swapping the relays on the solenoid board? Did you check the GI connector from the transformer to the backbox?

viperrwk

Since your old playfield had a problem I'd look at the areas the playfield GI runs through specifically on the SDU (header/connector) and backbox interconnect from the playfield back to the SDU. I'm guessing it's in one of those two places.

viperrwk

I'm guessing the problem is in your J15 connector on the PS. Your original was hacked and I'm guessing that you did not repin the connector well enough when you swapped in the new PS from Sharpshooter. There's nothing to the GI circuit really - AC from the transformer, out to the playfield and backbox, wired through the SDU to flash it on and off, back to the PS on the return. There's no logic circuit involved, you tested the relay it was good. You simply have to follow the electricity every step past every connector and where it drops out that's where your problem is.

viperrwk

You have to now see where the electricity is stopping.

Pull the connector at J15 on the power supply.

Meter on AC.

One lead on J15 pin 2. Other lead on pin 6. You should get ~6.3VAC.
Repeat on pins 3 and 7, then 4 and 8.
If you don't get this the problem is with the power supply board.

If you do, plug J15 back in. Trace the wires from those pins to see where they go next. Pins 2 & 3 go to the white connector between the playfield and backbox. Pins 6, 7 and 8 likely go to J3 pin 12 on the SDU board though the schematics are not clear and I don't have a Cyclopes to confirm. Wherever those wires go, unplug them at the next connectors and test again for AC. Repeat this process every step of the way until you have checked every connector in the circuit. You will find the problem this way.

viperrwk

Assuming the fuse is good and you have backbox GI working there's a problem with the PS board and the traces to the J15 connector. Only thing you can do is pull it and repair it.

viperrwk

Check the AC voltage at pins 3 & 7 and pins 4 & 8 on J15. Let us know what you get. It also would be a good idea to post a pic of the back side of your PS board.

viperrwk

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cyclopes-pinball-shop-out-restoration-thread/page/4#post-2302322

viperrwk