Great score! Did it come with a schematic/manual? If not I believe I have a pic of my Andromeda power supply schematic (from when I had one) lying around. They came out back to back, so it's probably pretty close if no exactly the same. Happy to post if it'll help.

The DE drop conversion isn't too bad if you have to do it, but no reason to go for it if all the original drops are in okay shape. The main problem with them is that after 30 years they can be pretty brittle and snap.

Regarding GI - it looks like Cyclopes flashes all the GI on/off. Not sure if there's a transistor driving a relay to flash them, but worth looking into.

To fix that GI hack you'll need .156 header pins, connector plugs and .156 trifercon crimp contacts and a 1028-ct or 1026-ct (I can't remember which one) crimper.

Great plains has what you need! - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

Cool to see you're makin' progress!

Lookin' good man!

Connector FTW!

Gonna be tough to scan a populated pf

I remember the flashers in my Andromeda burning out pretty quick. I had a pinbot and put 89's in the eyes and they burned out SUPER fast. Turned out the manual called for 1251's (which are not as bright).

Is there any chance you're supposed to use something like 1251's in the gameplan flash locations? I don't have any gameplan manuals handy.

Did the pf gi on the NEW playfield ever work?

On andromeda is was the black/yellow wire for GI. I had to rebuild/pin both the in/out connections on the SDU and power supply

Yes - I believe you'll see GI returns (black/brown) going in/out of the solenoid driver board where the relay is that switches it on/off. I had to rebuild them on my Adnromeda -

https://www.flickr.com/photos/39156535@N03/7310255518/

Huge thanks to Ronnie for comin' through with Cyclopes this afternoon on his way home form PAGG. He'd promised it to me what seems like a year ago, and delivered - thanks again man! I can finally close my ancient WTB thread.

So first order of business is digging into this GI problem. I've got good AC voltage on the power supply all the way down to the white connector between the backbox/playfield.

With that connector disconnected, I have good voltage across the pins on the backbox side (male). When I connect it to the playfield side (female), the voltage goes away completely. I've checked this in real time with my meter seeing voltage on the male side and vanishing when I plug it in. I've checked continuity with the connector connected and everything buzzes nice and strong, so I don't think it's actually the connector.

Backbox GI is fine. feature lamps are fine

I tugged twisted just about all the GI sockets on the playfield. What should I check next?

Psyched to see it all lit up soon (hopefully).

IMG_3252.JPG

Thanks - that did it! After buzzing out the line from the black/brn wire on the driver board to the relay and back out, I noticed a slightly "grey" header pin/connector pin on the upper right connector. Reflowed the header pin and replaced w/ a trifercon and it's looking great!

GI.JPG

He's too busy playing his new Devils Dare and Hot Doggin' and Excalibur and ??? - ha.

Looks like these are the right flash bulbs (the 89's in it are too bright and burning out quick) - can anyone confirm?

http://www.bulbtown.com/1155_MINIATURE_BULB_BA15S_BASE_p/1155.htm?CartID=1

I'll take that as a yes! Ordering now. Found 'em slightly cheaper here - https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/1110/IND-1155-10PK.html