Cyclopes eats flashers for breakfast. As much as I loathe LEDs I did buy some #89 flashers to replace the ones in the playfield and backbox.

http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=994&categoryId=8

Hmmm. Those might be a more robust version of the #89. I tried #89s and they lasted maybe a month. The LED flashers work fine and I left the warming resistors in.

I remember the flashers in my Andromeda burning out pretty quick. I had a pinbot and put 89's in the eyes and they burned out SUPER fast. Turned out the manual called for 1251's (which are not as bright).

Is there any chance you're supposed to use something like 1251's in the gameplan flash locations? I don't have any gameplan manuals handy.

I checked the manual and it doesn't say (or at least I can't find it) what type flasher to use.

The schematic for Andromeda calls for an 1155 lamp - 13.5v, 8w, .6a, Ba15s base. I've got to believe it's the same for Cyclopes - doubt they would have used something different.

viperrwk

http://www.bulbtown.com/1155_MINIATURE_BULB_BA15S_BASE_p/1155.htm

They are very similar to the #89 but the filament life is 5,000 hours compared to 750. So, I'd say they'd last much longer.

Likely won't work - that's a 28v lamp.

viperrwk

Did you lose all the GI or just the playfield GI? Did you try swapping the relays on the solenoid board? Did you check the GI connector from the transformer to the backbox?

viperrwk

Did the pf gi on the NEW playfield ever work?

Since your old playfield had a problem I'd look at the areas the playfield GI runs through specifically on the SDU (header/connector) and backbox interconnect from the playfield back to the SDU. I'm guessing it's in one of those two places.

viperrwk

On andromeda is was the black/yellow wire for GI. I had to rebuild/pin both the in/out connections on the SDU and power supply

I'm guessing the problem is in your J15 connector on the PS. Your original was hacked and I'm guessing that you did not repin the connector well enough when you swapped in the new PS from Sharpshooter. There's nothing to the GI circuit really - AC from the transformer, out to the playfield and backbox, wired through the SDU to flash it on and off, back to the PS on the return. There's no logic circuit involved, you tested the relay it was good. You simply have to follow the electricity every step past every connector and where it drops out that's where your problem is.

viperrwk

You have to now see where the electricity is stopping.

Pull the connector at J15 on the power supply.

Meter on AC.

One lead on J15 pin 2. Other lead on pin 6. You should get ~6.3VAC.
Repeat on pins 3 and 7, then 4 and 8.
If you don't get this the problem is with the power supply board.

If you do, plug J15 back in. Trace the wires from those pins to see where they go next. Pins 2 & 3 go to the white connector between the playfield and backbox. Pins 6, 7 and 8 likely go to J3 pin 12 on the SDU board though the schematics are not clear and I don't have a Cyclopes to confirm. Wherever those wires go, unplug them at the next connectors and test again for AC. Repeat this process every step of the way until you have checked every connector in the circuit. You will find the problem this way.

viperrwk

Assuming the fuse is good and you have backbox GI working there's a problem with the PS board and the traces to the J15 connector. Only thing you can do is pull it and repair it.

viperrwk

The 6.3VAC comes from the transformer on a green/white wire, through the 20A fuse to the connector you measured voltage on.

I'd be looking for a broken or burned trace. Run continuity on the supply and return GI traces from the transformer all the way to the connector. Look at the schematic as there are multiple traces that connect to other pins to feed the different strings on the playfield and backbox.

That cap is only there to filter the +12V and +5V.

There are other connectors associated with the GI. Look at the 12 or so connectors at the bottom of the head. There should be an all white one that carries GI and power to the flippers. Chances are those pins may be burned as well. Pull it apart and look at the black/brown and blue/white wire pins and see if there is an issue.

Also the return GI lines are on a black/brown and white/black wire that goes to another connector. I'd check those too (not sure where that connector is located). I'd look at the wires on the string that's not working and chase them from the playfield through the cabinet through the connectors to the backbox to the power supply board. The GI is the simplest circuit in any game but the one that causes the most problems and headaches.

Yes - I believe you'll see GI returns (black/brown) going in/out of the solenoid driver board where the relay is that switches it on/off. I had to rebuild them on my Adnromeda -

https://www.flickr.com/photos/39156535@N03/7310255518/

Ah yes that connector is on the solenoid driver board. I forgot about that. Check the pins there too. There are two relays on the solenoid driver board as well. One for the flipper enable and the other for the GI. Make sure the relays are pushed all the way in. There should be some metal straps holding them in to keep them from loosening.

Check the AC voltage at pins 3 & 7 and pins 4 & 8 on J15. Let us know what you get. It also would be a good idea to post a pic of the back side of your PS board.

viperrwk

Huge thanks to Ronnie for comin' through with Cyclopes this afternoon on his way home form PAGG. He'd promised it to me what seems like a year ago, and delivered - thanks again man! I can finally close my ancient WTB thread.

So first order of business is digging into this GI problem. I've got good AC voltage on the power supply all the way down to the white connector between the backbox/playfield.

With that connector disconnected, I have good voltage across the pins on the backbox side (male). When I connect it to the playfield side (female), the voltage goes away completely. I've checked this in real time with my meter seeing voltage on the male side and vanishing when I plug it in. I've checked continuity with the connector connected and everything buzzes nice and strong, so I don't think it's actually the connector.

Backbox GI is fine. feature lamps are fine

I tugged twisted just about all the GI sockets on the playfield. What should I check next?

Psyched to see it all lit up soon (hopefully).

IMG_3252.JPG

When I played it at PAGG,
i did not even notice it had GI problems,
as it was a blast to play,
loved the flashing eyes effect on the BG.
thanks for bringing the game
and good to know it has a new home in Oregon,
fairly close by.

I'd check the solenoid driver board pins where the GI enters and goes through the relay and back out first. I think there are two GI strings that go thru the relay. The other relay is for the flipper enable; so make sure you are checking the correct relay. Do continuity tests of the traces and contacts on the relay. Make sure the relay energizes/de-energizes in the solenoid tests.

If the problem isn't there, then I'd make two test leads each of a single connector and long wire. Disconnect all the GI connectors on the power supply board and plug the test leads for the GI supply and GI return pins on the header. Then connect the other end of the test leads to the GI strings under the playfield. Basically, going directly from the power supply to the GI strings, bypassing relays and connectors.

Then start moving the test leads back towards the power supply until it doesn't work. Then look for what could be the issue. GI braid touching metal, broken GI wire in a harness, bad trace on the SDB, non-working GI relay, etc.

Also, that white connector you took a picture of, make sure the wires on both sides match. Someone may have moved a wire. Check the wire colors. The blue/white wire looks like some insulation is cut as I can see the conductors. What is the white tape around that black/yellow wire?

Thanks - that did it! After buzzing out the line from the black/brn wire on the driver board to the relay and back out, I noticed a slightly "grey" header pin/connector pin on the upper right connector. Reflowed the header pin and replaced w/ a trifercon and it's looking great!

GI.JPG

Awesome! I figured it was probably on that solenoid driver board. I'm sure Ronnie want's it back now? LOL.

Looks like mine now...

2014-08-23 23.29.52.jpg

He's too busy playing his new Devils Dare and Hot Doggin' and Excalibur and ??? - ha.

Looks like someone needs to regrain their lockdown bar!