Are you sure you're using the diode setting on your meter and not the resistance setting? The 1235, 707 and 101 are more like resistance readings than diode voltage readings, especially the last two (given the resistors wired across those bridges). If it's diode, at 1235 bridge 1 is showing open and they usually short to ground.

There are four solenoid controlled lamps on Cyclopes. One behind the "yellow" targets controlled by Q7, one behind the "blue" targets controlled by Q4 and then two "fire" lamps controlled by Q5. I believe this is one of those lamps and if locked on and burned then you have to check Q5 on the SDU.

viperrwk

Well, can't say how that HF meter is supposed to work but I'm going to say that the 7 & 24v bridges are probably fine from your readings. The 5/12 may not be good given the open reading you're getting from positive to negative. The large filter cap could also be bad (high ESR) giving you a bad reading. Cut the zipties, unscrew the terminals and remove the large filter cap - that takes it out of the circuit and you should get normal readings on the bridge if it's ok. If you do, replace the large cap. If not, replace the bridge.

viperrwk

First one - should just screw in after removing the old one and one zip tie to secure it.

viperrwk

I would get a new bridge for the 5/12v line first and then get a new connector on J1 and clean up the power board and make sure nothing is shorting. Once you do that you can plug it in and test the output of the LM323 to see if you're getting 5v. At that point if you're not, you'll have to replace the regulator as well. Since you smoked it you may also need new caps and the diode that's up there. Looks like your meter might test capacitors as well - you'll have to dig out the manual and see if that's the case. You can always just shotgun it all to be on the safe side if you're unsure of your measurements or have someone come in to help you.

viperrwk

Is that where your sparks came from? BTW, the blue things on the voltage regulator are not hacks but tantalum caps and are supposed to be there. There should also be a 1N4004 diode in there too.

Just a standard bridge. I think 400V, 35A

The one at the bottom closest to the transformer.

And make sure you get one with lug leads and not wire leads so you have something to solder to.

viperrwk

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=172

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/game-plan-mpu-repair-a-shotgun-guide-w-pix#post-1309251

viperrwk

If and when you get your Cyclopes up and running and then after 6 months grow tired of it, maybe we can work out a trade or a shared custoday swap for my Game Plan Andromeda.

if you ever need a new or spare Game Plan MPU check out these guys
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« Last Edit: November 05, 2011, 07:44:36 AM by sharpshooter0_2 »
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Cool to see you're makin' progress!

My Andromeda is still in storage in Bakersfield Ca, as is the majority of my collection;
but hope to get the remaining pins up to Oregon in next 3-6 months.
Richland WA appears to be about 4 hr drive from Salem OR, so temp shared custody swap
is feasible.
Best of luck with your restore/shop job.

Did you disconnect all the connectors from the board and test the voltages at the test poins first? Something is shorting on the GI as indicated by the burning on the PS board. Until you find what that is you will likely continue to blow that fuse.

And did you blow the fuse on the PS or the under playfield fuse for the solenoids?

viperrwk

Did you test the voltages on the power supply?

viperrwk

There is only a loop for ground. The rest are pads. Hook your ground lead from the meter with an alligator clip to the ground loop then hit the test points as outlined below:

Game Plan Power Supply Test Points

The 7, 12 and 24v readings can be high or low since they are not regulated. The 5v reading needs to be close because it is regulated.

If they check out hook up the wires to the PS and hook only J1 on the MPU board and turn the machine on. Hook your ground to the loop at TP7 (below the third bank of DIP switches from the left).

Check for 5v at TP1 (right above the J1 connector) and 12v at TP2 (between U19 and U20). If you have 5 & 12 v at these test points and no flashes, your MPU is dead.

viperrwk

Those are ok. If you get no flashes on the MPU and voltages check out there MPU is dead.

viperrwk

I bet you are learning a lot huh Ronnie? Hope it's not too daunting. Nice to see you are making progress!

So jealous! Looks great!
Post a video once you have it all up and running.

What is your voltage at J1 pin 3? You can also try reseating all socketed chips as they may not have liked the trip.

viperrwk