Cyclopes Pinball EDIT: NOS Playfield Found!!!

(Topic ID: 105232)

Cyclopes Pinball EDIT: NOS Playfield Found!!!


By Ronnie1114

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 207 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Ronnie1114
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 80 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Power supply.jpg
Power supply 2.jpg
2014-10-17 10.44.23.jpg
2014-08-23 23.29.52.jpg
GI.JPG
IMG_3252.JPG
0310151944e.jpg
0310151944d.jpg
0310151944c.jpg
0310151944b.jpg
0310151944a.jpg
0310151944.jpg
0310151934.jpg
0122151714.jpg
1204142200.jpg
1203141754e.jpg

There are 207 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
#1 4 years ago

Picked this up, doesn't work but amazingly doesn't have battery damage. When I got it, the 5 Amp fuse on the power supply was blown. Replaced it and spark and smoke from that hack looking blue thing above the power supply board. Any suggestions? Anyways, game is in GREAT shape and everything is there except for the pop bumper caps. Any leads? Dirty as hell but should be a fun project. And yes, I am planning on keeping it for a while so don't ask. Enjoy

1005141254.jpg
1005141443.jpg
1005141443a.jpg
1005141443b.jpg
1005141443c.jpg
1005141444.jpg
1005141444a.jpg
1005141444b.jpg

#2 4 years ago

More:

1005141445.jpg 1005141445a.jpg 1005141445b.jpg
#3 4 years ago

I'll give you 450 for it........lol
I had fun picking it with you.
I'll go back for your hand truck and that tabletop Pong!

#4 4 years ago

Big blue thing is a capacitor.

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from 85Txaggie:

Big blue thing is a capacitor.

I'm talking about the small blue thing above the power board.

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

I'm talking about the small blue thing above the power board.

Those are tantulum capacitors that go to the 5 volt regulator. Quite possible your regulator is shot (lm323k I think is the part) . if they smoked they are bad. What I typically do with a new machine is unplug all of the connectors on the power supply and then turn on a measure the voltages. Of course if the regulator was bad , you would still get smoke

Great find! I love my cyclopes.

#7 4 years ago

Not really a restore thread, that's things complete and pretty nice. All you need is some board work and your good to go. I will offer you $450. That's $50 more than it was listed for. You would be making $50, good deal. Lol

#8 4 years ago

Cool game!
Check with Schudel5 (Mike) about pop caps. In his recent resto, he said they are unavailable, but he recreated new ones. He can fill you in on how he made them. His look great.

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

Those are tantulum capacitors that go to the 5 volt regulator. Quite possible your regulator is shot (lm323k I think is the part) . if they smoked they are bad. What I typically do with a new machine is unplug all of the connectors on the power supply and then turn on a measure the voltages. Of course if the regulator was bad , you would still get smoke
Great find! I love my Cyclopes.

Wow. Thanks for the info. Any guess on where to get one?

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Cool game!
Check with Schudel5 (Mike) about pop caps. In his recent resto, he said they are unavailable, but he recreated new ones. He can fill you in on how he made them. His look great.

Sweet. Thanks

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Wow. Thanks for the info. Any guess on where to get one?

You can get them at digikey or mouser or bob roberts. Do you happen to have a meter? If so I would test out the regulator first. Do you know when the machine last worked?

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballj:

You can get them at digikey or mouser or bob roberts. Do you happen to have a meter? If so I would test out the regulator first. Do you know when the machine last worked?

I do have a meter. How do I test it? I have no idea last time it worked, but it's been a while.

#13 4 years ago

Great score! Did it come with a schematic/manual? If not I believe I have a pic of my Andromeda power supply schematic (from when I had one) lying around. They came out back to back, so it's probably pretty close if no exactly the same. Happy to post if it'll help.

#14 4 years ago

The schematic on IPDB for Cyclopes is pretty good - worst page is the playfield schematic:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/619/Game_Plan_1985_Cyclopes_Partial_Manual_With_Schematics.pdf

I might have a better one - I have to look.

Solenoid Driver Unit, Lamp Driver Unit, MPU-2 and power supply (PSU-1) schematics are the same for all GP uprights

You've received good advice so far, though before you test the regulator you should check the bridge rectifiers on the PS board. If they are bad then the regulator won't get good power to regulate.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=general#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier

As was suggested, the best way to test a regulator is to apply power to it and measure its output with all the other harness connectors removed. Unless you have other specialized test equipment, there's really no way to test it with a resistance or diode test.

Unplug the machine, Remove all the connectors at the power supply and test the bridge rectifiers per the procedure linked to above. Then test the fuses for function and rating. This photo will help you identify the parts:

Game Plan Power Supply Fuses and Rectifiers

If the fuses and rectifiers check out, plug the machine back in, do not hook up the connectors, turn the machine back on and check the voltages with your multimeter at the test points listed below:

Game Plan Power Supply Test Points

There are two things that are troubling to me about your power supply. First, the wires that are directly connected to the power supply at J1. That could be a problem and is certainly a hack and could be causing you a short which smoked the power supply. Second, the burning at the fuse connector for the GI indicates a possible overfusing and a short somewhere in the GI circuit.

viperrwk

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

The schematics on IPDB for Cyclopes is pretty good - worst page is the playfield schematic:
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/619/Game_Plan_1985_Cyclopes_Partial_Manual_With_Schematics.pdf
I might have a better one - I have to look.
Solenoid Driver Unit, Lamp Driver Unit, MPU-2 and power supply (PSU-1) schematics are the same for all GP uprights
You've received good advice so far, though before you test the regulator you should check the bridge rectifiers on the PS board. If they are bad then the regulator won't get good power to regulate.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=general#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier
As was suggested, the best way to test a regulator is to apply power to it and measure its output with all the other harness connectors removed. Unless you have other specialized test equipment, there's really no way to test it with a resistance or diode test.
Unplug the machine, Remove all the connectors at the power supply and test the bridge rectifiers per the procedure linked to above. Then test the fuses for function and rating. This photo will help you identify the parts:
Game Plan Power Supply Fuses and Rectifiers
If the fuses and rectifiers check out, plug the machine back in, do not hook up the connectors, turn the machine back on and check the voltages with your multimeter at the test points listed below:
Game Plan Power Supply Test Points
There are two things that are troubling to me about your power supply. First, the wires that are directly connected to the power supply at J1. That could be a problem and is certainly a hack and could be causing you a short which smoked the power supply. Second, the burning at the fuse connector for the GI indicates a possible overfusing and a short somewhere in the GI circuit.
viperrwk

GP PS labeled.jpg 95 KB

GPPS TP.jpg 53 KB

Thanks so much! About the GI fuse, I get no GI at all on the playfield. Could that be caused by that? If my board is fried, can this board be fixed/replaced? Thanks for all the help.

#16 4 years ago

Something is not right with the GI - fuse, connector, wiring. Whatever shorted the GI needs to be corrected. Yeah - the board can be easily fixed - this is not like the MPU board.

viperrwk

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Something is not right with the GI - fuse, connector, wiring. Whatever shorted the GI needs to be corrected. Yeah - the board can be easily fixed - this is not like the MPU board.
viperrwk

Yeah I lucked out with the MPU. Not a whiff of battery damage.

#18 4 years ago

Update for tonight: Pulled down the drop targets and cleaned them out. When I first picked up the machine I noticed that one drop target was broken. Oh great, cant get one of those. Well I opened up the machine and in the coin box..... BAM! An unbroken one was just chillin in there along with a unused drop target assembly. Most of the decals were gone but, I have a friend who should be able to make some for me. Did a simple wipe down of the playfield and MAN its cleaning up nicely, no wear at all, just some ball swirls. Backglass is almost completely perfect.

#19 4 years ago

Before:

1006141815.jpg
#20 4 years ago

After:

1006141939.jpg
#21 4 years ago

More Pics:

1006141816c.jpg 1006141816d.jpg 1006141816e.jpg 1006141816.jpg 1006141816a.jpg 1006141816b.jpg 1006142013c.jpg 1006142100.jpg 1006142100a.jpg 1006142009.jpg 1006142009a.jpg 1006142009b.jpg 1006142010.jpg 1006142010a.jpg 1006142011.jpg 1006142012.jpg 1006142012a.jpg 1006142012b.jpg 1006142012c.jpg 1006142012d.jpg 1006142012e.jpg 1006142012f.jpg 1006142013.jpg 1006142013a.jpg 1006142013b.jpg
#22 4 years ago

As you can see, the apron has rust, gonna need to get a new ones or that one needs to be repainted.

#23 4 years ago

Now, I tried to test the bridges and stuff but couldn't find the one tab on the bridges to put the black lead so didn't get anywhere really. Did check all the fuses and they were correct value and wern't blown. Pretty noobish when it comes to board repairs.

#24 4 years ago

K's arcade has a transformer with that board on it. Check it out

#25 4 years ago

Looking online it looks like my game has different colored drops and decals. They look very factory to me as the decals are the same font used as the ones on the game pictured with white drops and different colored decals.

#26 4 years ago

I think the red drops with white decals are original. I've replaced mine with white Data East drop targets but had to put 1/4" spacers under the drop target assemblies since the DE drops are 1/4" longer. If the drops are fine I'd leave them. If you break one, chances you'll have to replace them all with longer DE drops as the originals are no longer available.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Anyways, game is in GREAT shape and everything is there except for the pop bumper caps. Any leads?

found a scan of the art on the pop bumper while trolling the internet...

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/619/Game_Plan_1985_Cyclopes_Bumper_Cap_Scans.jpg

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

found a scan of the art on the pop bumper while trolling the internet...
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/619/Game_Plan_1985_Cyclopes_Bumper_Cap_Scans.jpg

Yep they're on IPDB along with the target scans, manual and instruction cards.

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Looking online it looks like my game has different colored drops and decals. They look very factory to me as the decals are the same font used as the ones on the game pictured with white drops and different colored decals.

Glad to hear you are making progress!

As far as the drops. The originals are supposed to be white (bought a NOS populated playfield from Pacak a long time ago). They are pretty much impossible to find GamePlan white drop targets. You can take old gottlieb ones and make them work (I have some new gottliebs for backups).

As far as the grey bumper caps, they are really hard to find. You may just want to take a normal cap and spray paint. I did find an original grey bumper cap at Expo a couple years ago at the L&M amusements booth. Larry bought a lot of the GamePlan stock when they closed doors back in the day.

#30 4 years ago

The DE drop conversion isn't too bad if you have to do it, but no reason to go for it if all the original drops are in okay shape. The main problem with them is that after 30 years they can be pretty brittle and snap.

Regarding GI - it looks like Cyclopes flashes all the GI on/off. Not sure if there's a transistor driving a relay to flash them, but worth looking into.

#31 4 years ago

Any boards you can swap from another machine?
I love Cyclopes...sorry I didn't get one when I had the chance...

#32 4 years ago

These seems to be in very nice overall condition and once you get in working will be a blast to play!

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Now, I tried to test the bridges and stuff but couldn't find the one tab on the bridges to put the black lead so didn't get anywhere really. Did check all the fuses and they were correct value and wern't blown. Pretty noobish when it comes to board repairs.

The bridges are usually marked, either by one of the lugs being oriented 90 degrees from the other or with a "+" on the outside of the case where the DC positive lead is located.

In your case, the "oddball" lead on the rectifiers are:

Red on the 7v rectifier
Grey on the 24v rectifier
Orange/brown on the 5/12v rectifier

Couple of things to note when you run these tests since these rectifiers are in circuit:

When you test the orange/brown 5/12v lead to the opposite negative side of the bridge (white/green wire), you will initially get a "0" reading and then the measurement will start counting up. This is because you are applying a small voltage to the big capacitor there across the 5v line. If you hold it there for about a minute the reading should stabilize to somewhere between .4 and .6. If it stays at 0 and doesn't move, the bridge is bad.

You should get a lower reading across the positive and negative terminals for the 24v bridge (.2) and the 7v bridge (.03). This is normal as there is a 700 ohm resistor wired across the positive and negative terminal on the 24v bridge and a 100 ohm resistor wired across the positive and negative terminal on the 7v bridge. You should definitely get .4-.6 to the adjacent terminals when testing in both directions. If you get 0 on the adjacent terminal measurements, replace the bridge. If you don't get .2 and .03 across the positive and negative terminals on the two bridges, you first have to suspect the resistors. The 700 ohm resistor you can see in the photo next to J3. The 100 ohm resistor is located at the lower left of the board under the connectors. If those test good, replace the bridge.

viperrwk

#34 4 years ago

Wow! Thanks so much everyone, I know what I'm doing later today.

#35 4 years ago

And also, Charlie, from the Seattle Pinball Museum is going to Expo and offered to get a plastic signed by Roger Sharpe. That's gonna be sick.

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

The bridges are usually marked, either by one of the lugs being oriented 90 degrees from the other or with a "+" on the outside of the case where the DC positive lead is located.
In your case, the "oddball" lead on the rectifiers are:
Red on the 7v rectifier
Grey on the 24v rectifier
Orange/brown on the 5/12v rectifier
Couple of things to note when you run these tests since these rectifiers are in circuit:
When you test the orange/brown 5/12v lead to the opposite negative side of the bridge (white/green wire), you will initially get a "0" reading and then the measurement will start counting up. This is because you are applying a small voltage to the big capacitor there across the 5v line. If you hold it there for about a minute the reading should stabilize to somewhere between .4 and .6. If it stays at 0 and doesn't move, the bridge is bad.
You should get a lower reading across the positive and negative terminals for the 24v bridge (.2) and the 7v bridge (.03). This is normal as there is a 700 ohm resistor wired across the positive and negative terminal on the 24v bridge and a 100 ohm resistor wired across the positive and negative terminal on the 7v bridge. You should definitely get .4-.6 to the adjacent terminals when testing in both directions. If you get 0 on the adjacent terminal measurements, replace the bridge. If you don't get .2 and .03 across the positive and negative terminals on the two bridges, you first have to suspect the resistors. The 700 ohm resistor you can see in the photo next to J3. The 100 ohm resistor is located at the lower left of the board under the connectors. If those test good, replace the bridge.
viperrwk

Sweet thanks.

#37 4 years ago

My Cyclopes will be at Chicago Expo this year if anyone is going that wants to play one.

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from noahpdavis:

Regarding GI - it looks like Cyclopes flashes all the GI on/off. Not sure if there's a transistor driving a relay to flash them, but worth looking into.

Yes - good point, hadn't thought about that. Cyclopes uses the second relay socket on the SDU to turn the GI on and off. The relay is driven by Q9 on the SDU and goes to pin 21 on J1 of the SDU. You can see the top socket populated in the photo. The only production games I know that used this relay are Cyclopes, Andromeda (both for flashing the GI) and Super Nova (for the space lab motor.)

If the GI isn't coming on and Q9 is shorted/bad, then it would be energizing the relay and not allowing the GI to come on. But I'm guessing it's more a wiring issue, especially since the GI fuse connector is burned. And you have to hope the relay is not a problem because replacements are not cheap:

ebay.com link » Sigma 67r4 24dc Relay 67r424dc Nos New Old Stock

viperrwk

Post edited by viperrwk: Used my brain to realize how the lights might not be coming on.

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Yes - good point, hadn't thought about that. Cyclopes uses the second relay socket on the SDU to turn the GI on and off. The relay is driven by Q9 on the SDU and goes to pin 21 on J1 of the SDU. You can see the top socket populated in the photo. The only production games I know that used this relay are Cyclopes, Andromeda (both for flashing the GI) and Super Nova (for the space lab motor.)
Though the GI not coming on is probably more an issue of wiring. If it didn't flash during the game then I'd suspect Q9 or the relay. And have to hope it's not the relay as replacements are not cheap:
ebay.com link » Sigma 67r4 24dc Relay 67r424dc Nos New Old Stock
viperrwk

Yeah, let's hope it's not that.

#40 4 years ago

How am I supposed to get the power board off? It's got several wires directly soldered to the back.

#41 4 years ago

Unhook the connectors (mark them or take a picture). You remove the metal plate and transformer from the backbox. Yes wires from the transformer are soldered to the board just like Bally and Stern games from that era. On the bench you can pop the board off the standoffs but it still will be attached to the transformer wires. Welcome to the world of early SS games.

#42 4 years ago

Yep get real comfortable with a soldering iron real quick or this thread is going to end real fast

viperrwk

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Unhook the connectors (mark them or take a picture). You remove the metal plate and transformer from the backbox. Yes wires from the transformer are soldered to the board just like Bally and Stern games from that era. On the bench you can pop the board off the standoffs but it still will be attached to the transformer wires. Welcome to the world of early SS games.

I'm reasonably comfortable with a soldering iron. I'll take it off tonight.

#44 4 years ago

Got the assembly out. Look at the GI connector hack.

1007141502.jpg 1007141503.jpg 1007141504.jpg 1007141504a.jpg 1007141505.jpg
#45 4 years ago

Tested the bridge rectifiers, here's what I got

BR 1: 495, 1235, 494

BR2: 476, 707, 480

BR3: 500, 101, 498

Here's a picture to help you tell what bridge is what.

1007141515a.jpg
#46 4 years ago

To fix that GI hack you'll need .156 header pins, connector plugs and .156 trifercon crimp contacts and a 1028-ct or 1026-ct (I can't remember which one) crimper.

Great plains has what you need! - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

#47 4 years ago
Quoted from noahpdavis:

To fix that GI hack you'll need .156 header pins, connector plugs and .156 trifercon crimp contacts and a 1028-ct or 1026-ct (I can't remember which one) crimper.
Great plains has what you need! - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=37

Great! Thanks. Wasn't as bad as I thought, at least they made it possible to take the board out .

#48 4 years ago

I got your parts, unobtainium

image-658.jpg image-542.jpg image-437.jpg
#49 4 years ago

Had my friend come over and take down notes for all the drop and stand up target decals. Hopefully, she will get back to me soon and the target decals come out great. Any suggestions on the bridge rectifier readings?

#50 4 years ago

Something got a little toasty

1007141813.jpg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 15.00
From: $ 25.00
Various Other Swag
Shoot Again Pinball
$ 7.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 218.00
€ 4.99
Flipper Parts
Multigame
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 29.50
Playfield - Plastics
Bright Lights Pinball
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Decals
Bright Lights Pinball
$ 7,199.00
Pinball Machine
Operation Pinball
$ 35.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 49.00
Cabinet - Other
Chrome Candy
From: $ 42.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 29.50
Playfield - Plastics
Bright Lights Pinball
From: $ 5.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Medisinyl Mods
$ 229.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Tilttopper
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Lighted Pinball Mods
€ 40.00
Boards
FLIPPROJETS
$ 219.99
$ 79.00
$ 149.00
$ 39.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
There are 207 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside