(Topic ID: 213962)

Cyclone possible opto problems?

By DropTarget

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

Hi all,

As some of you know, I just picked up a project Williams Cyclone. Little by little, I'm getting the machine running.

It's always great to see a dead machine come back to life.

I have virtually no system 11 experience. Actually I'm an EM guy with a bit of SS experience.

I'm trying to fix a couple of issues that I think may be related to opto switches, and could use some guidance.

The 1st is: the drop target does not reset or score. It resets during test mode, not during game play. It does not register in switch test mode.

the 2nd is that the Mystery Wheel home switch is open (diagnostics says H 256). Display 3 is inop, so the number of errors can't be read. Also the wheel does not spin, either during game play or during test mode.

The manual states that in order to see if these are switch or cpu problems, to disconnect connectors IP8 and IP10 from the CPU and jump the associated leads as per the switch matrix. The problem is, I don't see those connectors on the CPU.

Q: 1) How can I be sure that the optics are bad vs some other issue?
2) During test, it feels like the MW motor is trying to spin, but it doesn't. Anything to check before ordering a new board and motor?

Thanks

#2 6 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

The 1st is: the drop target does not reset or score. It resets during test mode

This means that the opto circuit isn't working. Check for 12 volts on the grey/yellow wire. Check for ground on the black wire.

Quoted from DropTarget:The manual states that in order to see if these are switch or cpu problems, to disconnect connectors IP8 and IP10 from the CPU and jump the associated leads as per the switch matrix. The problem is, I don't see those connectors on the CPU.

They are labeled 1J8 and 1J10.

Quoted from DropTarget:During test, it feels like the MW motor is trying to spin, but it doesn't. Anything to check before ordering a new board and motor?

In test check the voltage at the motor terminals. If it's low remove the relay and check for cracked solder joints on the back.

Quoted from DropTarget:

Display 3 is inop, so the number of errors can't be read.

If the other displays work correctly then the #3 display is out gassed and needs to be replaced.

#3 6 years ago

Grumpy,

Thank you. I'll check those and report back.

Also, did I mention that I'm new to SS games?

When checking for 12v on the drop target, since it's a momentary switch, does it matter what state the machine is in? Normal play, test etc.

Also (a newbie question) how do I check for that voltage? do I check it across the grey/yellow lead and a known ground?

In the mean time, I disconnected IJ8 and IJ10 and jumped the associated pins for those two optos. They showed the switches closed when jumped, so I'm assuming bad optos. Would you suggest replacing just the optos or the entire boards?

Thanks

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

When checking for 12v on the drop target, since it's a momentary switch, does it matter what state the machine is in? Normal play, test etc.

For the opto circuit board to function it needs to have a constant 12 volts and ground any time the machine is on. This powers up the board so that when the opto is blocked by a target dropping it will then send a signal to the CPU board. A lot of the time the power or ground isn't there because it travels thru a bunch of connectors and thru a few different boards to get to the drop target. To check this you set your meter to DC volts and connect the red lead to the grey/yellow wire and the black lead to the black wire. You should see @ 12.6 volts DC. Lets say you don't get a good reading, possible that one of the 2 wires has a break somewhere. You need the check them separately by placing the black lead on the ground braid and red lead on the grey/yellow wire, if you get a good reading now the problem is on the black wire. You can hook the red lead to the test point #3 on the power supply and the black lead to the black wire and if you get a good reading then the grey/yellow wire has a problem. Does that make sense?

Quoted from DropTarget:In the mean time, I disconnected IJ8 and IJ10 and jumped the associated pins for those two optos. They showed the switches closed when jumped, so I'm assuming bad optos. Would you suggest replacing just the optos or the entire boards?

First you need to test all the wires related to this opto first before knowing if it's the board or wiring issue. If it does turn out to be a board issue you would have to decide if your able to repair it or not. I myself would just repair the board, but I have been doing board work for 32 years.

#5 6 years ago

Grumpy,

Thanks.

BTW, I don't see a black wire, there is a black/yellow wire, is that the ground? If so, I don't get a reading, but the Gry/Yel to ground braid reads 11Vdc.

BW, I ordered a few optos just in case, worse comes to worse I'll have spares.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I don't see a black wire, there is a black/yellow wire, is that the ground?

Yep. So you will need to find out where the black/yellow wire bad connection is. I think if you follow it back it will goes to the innerconnect board.

#7 6 years ago

Thanks

#8 6 years ago

On line manual for Cyclone doesn't show an inner connect board but I know there is one. Looking at a later model pin manual shows that 12 volt power and ground comes from the power supply to the inner connect board at J2 and leaves the inner connect board at J16 and goes to the drop target board. There maybe a cracked header pin solder joint on the inner connect board, you would have to remove the board to inspect this.

#9 6 years ago

Yes, there is one.

Drop target and mystery wheel fixed!!!!!!!!

They must share a common ground. I traced the ground from the drop target (oh, what fun that was) to a connector on the power supply. When I unplugged the connector to check continuity, it was obvious what the problem was. The ground pin on the board was bent. straightened it out, replaced the connector and both worked.

Thank you so much for the assistance. Now to find a short in the GI circuit, replace the bad display, add a battery holder and replace the 10k roll over switch (which is no longer available from anyone). then the game is 100%

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

replace the 10k roll over switch (which is no longer available from anyone)

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-SMSW

Would something like this work, you can shape to match original switch.

#11 6 years ago

That's what I ordered, albeit from a different company that has switches from the original manufacturer. Now I need a pic of that switch from an actual machine. The part listed in the manual shows an odd wire form shape. I don't think it's correct.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

I need a pic of that switch from an actual machine.

Well ask to see if someone will pull theirs and take some measurements for you.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Well ask to see if someone will pull theirs and take some measurements for you.

Great. Thank you. You've already gone above and beyond.

#14 6 years ago

i think grumpy has a 6 pack owed via fed ex!

#15 6 years ago

Fedex? That seems a bit extreme, but if he wants a six pack, I'll PayPal the cost.

#16 6 years ago

I just help if I can, So PLAYBALL.

#17 6 years ago

I can do that!

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