(Topic ID: 123713)

Cyclone Lower Pop Bumper Help

By RandyV

9 years ago


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system11b-specialsolenoids.jpg
#1 9 years ago

The lower pop bumper on my Cyclone does not work during game play or through diagnostics. I'm new with Sys 11s and have been reading the repair guide and doing various tests tonight. I am looking for some validation on what I have done and what I intend to do.

The center pop bumper is a Special Solenoid driven by Q77. I have the same, good voltage on both coil lugs, and the coil fires when I ground the coil directly at the lug. So, the coil has power and is good. Likewise, when I ground Q77, the coil fires. Based on my understanding of the repair guide, that means everything between Q77 and the coil itself should be fine.

I still need to check the Q77 pre-driver and if that checks out, I believe that narrows my problem down to a bad 7402 TTL issue at U50.

Q76 (left pop bumper) has been replaced (before I got the game) and is working fine both in game and in diagnostics. U50 controls both Q76/Q77. Is it possible that if Q76 shorted that it damaged the 7402?

My plan is to replace the 7402 at U50. Since the coil does not fire in diagnostics, and the coil driver itself seems to be fine, I am assuming the 7402 has a bad gate, and when the CPU signals it to fire Q77, nothing happens.

I would appreciate any feedback or additional thoughts about this.

#2 9 years ago

Grounding the tab of Q77 and firing the coil does not mean Q77 itself is good. It could be your problem.

viperrwk

#3 9 years ago

Does it score points when you press the pop bumper switch? This era of System 11 no longer used the "special solenoids" section as it was originally designed. By this time, Williams had made all the switches go through the game logic and the game fired the coil and did the scoring unlike previous games where the switch controlled the coil and then a second switch did the scoring. If you get points from the switch but the coil does not fire, then you at least know your switch matrix is trying to work. From there it can be a bad TIP102, or the pre-driver transistor, or could go back to the TTL or the 6821 PIA. If you have a logic probe you can see where the signal dies. I've seen this problem go all the way back to the PIA more than once, but don't dig into that until you've worked back from the more obvious parts.

#4 9 years ago

Thanks for the replies. @vintageclub: The bumper switch does register in the switch test and during game play (plays a sound when it is hit) so I assume the switch matrix is working fine. As you said, when the switch is hit, the coil never fires, which is what lead me to the TTL. I wasn't sure about the special solenoids situation but knew this particular one was CPU controlled. Thanks for that bit of info. Seems like Williams was making a lot of design changes at this point in time.

I only have a photo copy of the manual and it's difficult to follow the schematics. I have a logic proble but I am not sure I have the pin outs to check on the TTL. You wouldn't happen to have that, woudl you?

I'll check the pre-driver tonight.

Thanks again for the replies.

#5 9 years ago

You've already stated most of this in your first post, but from the manual it shows Q77, pre-driven by Q76, running back to pin 1 of U50 (a 7402 IC). If someone got handsy with with some tools and shorted something (which could be why Q75/Left Bumper already blew) then the problem could be deeper than just a simple TIP102. I had the left slingshot on my Cyclone scoring points but not firing and it turned out to be the 6821 PIA. The quick and dirty Clay Harrell approach to testing TTL chips is to put positive lead on ground, then black lead on each of the pins and see if they measure between .4-.6, just like testing a regular transistor. Give that a try on that U50 before you break out the logic probe, it might be that simple.

system11b-specialsolenoids.jpgsystem11b-specialsolenoids.jpg
#6 9 years ago

Thanks again for the info. I will check the voltages on the 7402 and see what I get.

#7 9 years ago

Ok - it looks like the 2N4401 Q76 pre-driver is bad. I got .4 on one side but .9 on the other. I checked Q78 for comparison and got .4 and .5 as I should. I checked U50 and pins 1-3 gave me proper values which also matched what I read on pins 4-6. I'll pull the board, replace Q76 and will let you know what happens. I appreciate the guidance.

#8 9 years ago

Sounds great, hopefully thats all it is.

#9 9 years ago

No love ... I replaced Q76 and the coil still does not fire through diagnostics.

However, the voltages for Q76 now check out properly. It looks like R102, R103 and R104 are in line past Q76, so I checked those and lo and behold, R102 shows 0 ohms. So that's next on the list of components to replace. I know the resistor is 2.7k ohm (per the bands and the schematic) but I don't know the wattage. I assume 1/2 watt since that's what the others appear to be. Do you know for sure?

#10 9 years ago

Looks like R102 is a 1/4W and not 1/2W. Off to the Shack again tomorrow ...

#11 9 years ago

This is why I am not a EE and I ask for help.

I removed R102 from the board and it tested fine - 2.7k just like it should be. So that is not the issue. With the resistor removed and the board on my bench, I started poking around a found something very strange: from both of the R102 pads, I have continuity to the emitter AND base of Q77. Given the crap solder job on Q77, I know it has been replaced in the past I also found that I have continuity between the base an emitter leads of Q77 itself -- which I know is not correct.

Given the continuity between the Q77 base and emitter leads, I am now convinced Q77 has to be bad.

I tested the original Q76 after I pulled it out, and it was indeed bad too.

So I believe both transistors (Q76 and Q77) were bad to begin with.

#12 9 years ago

Let us know how it goes after replacing. The reason its hard to suspect that Q77 would be bad is because 95% of the time they short instead of go open, so they usually just lock on and burn up. You happened to get lucky and have it short open. Of course, this is assuming that your coil and its diode are both still good, which I assume they are because you said they fire when you ground the tab. Sounds strange, but you may have just gotten lucky and only had $1.00 worth of parts crap out instead of $15.00 for new transistors AND a new coil, plus a fuse. Good luck.

1 week later
#13 9 years ago

Success! I replaced Q77 tonight and voilà! The lower pop bumper is now working. @vintageclub - thanks for the help and support.

#14 9 years ago

To summarize ... both Q76 and Q77 were bad. I also will strongly recommend the Hakko FR300 desolderer. After years of using braid and mechanical solder suckers, I broke down and bought the Hakko and it made this job a cake walk.

#15 9 years ago

Nice. I love my Cyclone machine and I hope you can now play the heck out of yours. Cyclone has great pop bumper action and its easy to ratchet up the jackpot quickly because of it.

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