I’ve gotten my Cyclone about. A year ago. It’s a bit rough but it all worked.
I corrected a few things, replaced a ramp added les.
Played well.
I decided to give it a well needed cleaning and address a few small issues I found.
The playfield is 90% reassembled and clean.
Soldered a loose diode under the spook house. Only one of the boomerang flashers was connected and working so I
Soldered the rest of the boomerang flashers. This may be the cause of my issues.
I turned on the pin and none of the kickers worked. The Ferris wheel didn’t work nor did the mystery wheel.The GI all worked fine. I had a blown the 2A fuse on the Aux power board.
I ordered a fuse set from Marco. Replaced the fuse then the fun started.
Turn the game on, without the ball, looks ok then a moment later, the right kicker pops twice . A few seconds later it pops 10 times along with the knocker. Put the ball in , no pop bumpers, no Ferris wheel, no mystery wheel.
The duck targets- hit all three and the kicker pops.
Cat targets- hit all three and the right and left kicker pops along with the knocker.
Hit the comet switch right kicker had a meltdown while all kickers popped then the fuse blew again.
This is where I am.... where do I go next?
I’m also going to create a post so I can try to tag a few people .
Thanks!
JeffZee Jmckune GRUMPY

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GeminiGuy I suppose my soldering skills need a little honing...
Ok so wick up the solder test the diode strip the wire, get a good mechanical connection and re solder.
Wish I could find a picture to make sure I have the right wires going to the right places.
Thanks.

GRUMPY Thank you for chiming in!
Here is a picture of the diode which was loose.
It lites the “spin the mystery wheel” and is mounted just below the flasher. When I tried to solder it the other wires popped off. I got them all to stick, but the solder is a bit gloppy. Hopefully i got them all in the rite place. I need to work on my soldering technique and get a new not too costly soldering iron . I kinda suck at soldering.

The fuse that keeps blowing is fuse 4 on the auxiliary power board.
Pulled j11 & j 12 game came up fine, no coils fired. Sounds and lights come up normal.
Sounds are normal.

Switch test:
All good except for the flippers didn’t work.
I’m guessing left anD right flippers lane change #57 &#58 would work if the j11&12 were plugged in?
They are in the same row of the switch matrix table.

What do I check next?

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Disconnected J11 & J12 first then replaced the fuse.

I did take apart and reassemble the where the ball goes in boomerang I didn’t de solder anything.
Cleaned and reassembled. I did not take apart or mess with any coils.

The flippers don’t work with J11 & J12 unplugged.
If I turn off pin, plug them back in and hit start , the flippers work.
Powered down, unplugged J11 & J12.

All the lights work except for the flashers. No flashers work.

The spook house drop target doesn’t reset.

Could it be a solder drip ? Although I didn’t any drips.

Also mystery wheel doesn’t spin , prob a separate issue.

Ok
Plugged and unplugged.
Performed Switch test - they work
Coil test. This was strange. Only the left and right kickers fire.

Another blown fuse?
Visually, I don’t see any other blown fuses but I didn’t test all fuses with a meter.

No pop bumpers. They don’t “pop”
But they do register on the switch test.
If I start a game the still don’t pop but the score registers .

I’ll have to wait till I get home from the office. I’m “essential” and have to work in the “NJ death zone”

I’ll check and report back
Thank you for all your help.

BTW
No Ferris wheel and no mystery wheel.

Totally separate issues ?
Or
Can they be related?

Lesson learned.
Test the fuse with a meter , test the fuse with a meter...
F3 F2 & f8 blown
F1 is ok
I think I got my pop bumpers back

j11 & J12 still unplugged from the cpu board

Ran the coil test and I have right & left slings working
Three working jet bumpers and working flippers.
All in the right direction

GRUMPY Here’s where my inexperience really shows. I’m not sure I set the DMM to the rite setting.
Had it set the way it is in the picture .
Game is powered on
Black to ground red to the pins
Nothing changed on the meter. I’m sure I’m doing something wrong
(Feeling dumb)

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GRUMPY
That was a great help!
(I need a DMM for dummies video)

J11 pin5 =SOL-4
J12 pin5= SOL-12

Both pulse About once ever second
high to low between ~500 and ~1900.

All other pins don’t register anything .

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Thanks again!

I’ll try that after work .

I haven’t seen any of my flashers work either.

The good:
I learned a ton of stuff with your help.
I was able to play a game.
The relay board, I replaced two pins on and made a connector for works!
For the first time the Gi blinks. It really makes a big difference during game play.
Flashers work just fine.
The boomerang flashers now also work.
I replaced the bulbs with new 28v blue flashers.
Huge improvement ; they look fantastic.
The still not working:

There is a 2nd relay in the back box needs to be installed. I replaced two burnt pins. Still need to make up a new connector and install it.
The bigger issue is The Mystery Wheel isn’t spinning
I’ll run the test again and see what error pops up.
The other new issue issue, commas are lighting up on the display when they shouldn’t.
But so far so good.

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The error picture I posted may not be the actual error.
Need to run the test again and then see.

Ugggg
Now the drop target won’t come up...
I’ll check for loose plug on the display.
Dirty optio on the drop target?

GRUMPY
The Display connector was loose.
Ez fix.

The target is down.

The switch level test said
“Outhole 06 10”

The mystery wheel error is on the pic attached. During the test, the wheel twitches a bit like it want to spin but won’t. I’ll take a better look but I didn’t see any loose pins.

The back box has an odd Looking repair. I guess it’s ok for now? Not sure if it might have anything to do with the mystery wheel. I’ll lost a pic of that too.

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This is cool.
I’m off work till Monday I plan on spending some time trying to get things fixed.
I left the ball in while conducting the test yesterday. took out the ball , ran the switch test. All ok

If I run the coil test, the target pops up.

During gameplay, the target gets hit it drops.
Ball goes through and gets kicked out the boomerang.
Target does NOT reset.

I pick up the ball during game play and after a few seconds,
the boomerang kicker fires then the shooter lane kickbig fires and the Ferris wheel turns on.
With no ball, This repeats every 10 seconds or so.

I would think the target coil should fire to lift the target but it doesn’t .

Could I have missed a fuse and it’s effecting the mystery wheel?

jaytrem
I was thinking that. Might be a time to install the new ghost decal I have.

GRUMPY
Mystery wheel :
I set the meter to DCV
Tested each pin on the pins which plug into the motor connector
Top pin 10
Next 5
Next 0
space
Next 4 ish
Bottom 5ish.

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I ran the switch test I did’t see where two switches showed up. Just for kicks , I held down two switches at once and saw how one would flash and then the other.
The drop target did not show up while the target is down while testing switches.
Couldn’t figure out the mystery Wheel opto switch 41...

Drop target opto dirty???

MW
The wires are red Brown Green black
Also attached a pic of the other side.
It wiggles a lot when testing but won’t turn . Almost like it’s just not getting enough power.
Tested power again
And get ~5 VDC on top two pins and bottom two pins.
Should I remove it and take a good look at all the soldering?

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The flag on the drop target?

Ummmm
Sorry to ask a stupid question but I have no idea what it looks like or where it should be..

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I took the opto board off. I figured I can clean it and change the decal on the drop targetThe flag looks in tact .
I don’t have a card.
Any other way to test the opto?

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jaytrem
Spook decal fixed.
GRUMPY
I think the opto is bad.
I took the board off, cleaned the opto
Plugged it in, ran the switch test
Ran the flag through the opto and nothing registered .
Looks like power is to the board .

Replaced the spook decal while I was at it.

Anything I should check on the board?

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Do you need to remove the transistor and diode to test?

Should I try cleaning the opto better?

When I jumped pins 4 & 5 on the board and the cpu read the switch on the test.
New board $30 or opto for $12 and hope it will work especially considering my awesome (sarcasm) soldering skills.

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GRUMPY
First and foremost if you celebrate, happy Easter.
Also hope that you and yours are all healthy and safe.

I’ll replace a .50 part to save $30 in a heartbeat. At least I’ll try!

I checked the operational and parts manuals. I didn’t see the drop target schematic you posted. Where do I find it?
Not sure how much help it really is ;I need to learn how to read them...
I unfortunately need “ reading schematics for dummies along with “ circuit board testing for dummies”

I don’t know what I’m doing but this is what.
I set the DMM to test continuity.
I readings for all but 1.
The arrow below is pointing to it.
Is this what you were thinking the problem is?

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If I did it right...
Starting the bottom diode you pointed out with the blue arrow I get 658
Middle 867
And top 813

The transistor :
The middle being ground 855 & 866

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GRUMPY
After two videos and your diagram (thanks for that; makes it ez)
Tested the diode. I get a drop to 664 and no flow the other direction.
It works . Although even a magnifying glass I couldn’t read the number on the diode.

I tested the transistor.
It also works. (What’s the gab of silicone for)?
Just like in the diagram.

Thanks again
Mostly for the lessons!
I know how to test a :
fuse
Diode
Transistor (both types)
I have a much better understanding of the switches.
How am opto switch works...

All that board does is tell the cpu what position the target is in then the CPU decides what action to take next ?

I should order the part from Marco, solder it in place, plug in the board and run the switch test see if it works and if it does Reassemble it?

GRUMPY
AWSOME.
First order of business tonight ..
Check voltage for 12v
Then
I suppose remove the mystery wheel assembly and start with cleaning the opto see if that helps.

Then move onto testing the board.

I Searched other mystery wheel issues I’m hoping a little cleaning will make for a quick fix. ( I’m never that lucky )

I’m also holding off ordering the out hole Incase I need more parts.

I’ll report my findings.
Thanks.

GRUMPY
This is a little odd.
If I test the connector I get 12v
If I test the pins from the front side of the wheel I get 9V.
Maybe take off the board and inspect the solder closer?

Jmckune
So far I think the optic sensor is Bad.
I can get one for about $6. If I can replace it myself I’ll be thrilled at a $6 repair .
But I’m waiting Incase I need more stuff for the mystery wheel. Also changed the ghost decal. Big improvement!

I haven’t had time to go any further.

I need to take the assembly off and check the solder. I get 12v at the connector. But if I test the pins from the wheel side I get 9V.
So I’m thinking maybe a bad connection.
No doubt it really needs to be cleaned.
I’m hoping for an inexpensive fix
The good is, it plays well except for the drop target and the mystery wheel spinning. Last this is to make a new connector for the GI relay in the head.
Then I can work on......

Jmckune

After I bought it and then later learning about pinside, I found the pin I bought in the archive .

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/68357#ctop

So the guy I bought it from must of gotten it from the guy in colts neck.
Naturally paid too much.

GRUMPY
The opto switch registers when jumped.
I didn’t see my previous post just the ugly pics.

I have no idea where to start. Looks like there’s been several repairs.
The motor manually spins fine.
When in test it wiggles like it wants to start but doesn't have the oomph to spin.
Then the usual error message.

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GRUMPY

I tested the 7805. Black from my DMM on the center.
I get 4.8 red arrow and 5.9 yellow arrow.
If that’s way not rite please let me know.

GeminiGuy

I just learned how to test a diode...I’m up for learning as much as I can, but what you just said...way out of my league lol.
I’ll move on and start with R10-R12

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Btw..
The rust is from the mounting screws. How they got rusty is a mystery.
I found a board motor and harness for $99 birthday list ?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-stepper-board-with-stepper-motor-and-harness.html

GeminiGuy so far...
11.8v at the yellow arrow
10.8 At the red
5.9 in the middle.

Sadly,
I don't believe this board will ever see its 32nd birthday.
Too many issues, age and the number of replacement parts along with the lack of skill and knowledge to resolve them all.

Anyway to test the motor ?

If It’s ok and I can save $34 .

I saw the board, motor and connector for $99. Thinking it’s goin in my birthday list.

GRUMPY
I broke down and bought a new board and motor for the mystery wheel and I’m starting to think the old board and motor are good.
With the new board and motor when I put it in test, the wheel doesn’t spin.
It rumbles like it wants to turn but doesn’t have enough umph to turn.
It’s as if it isn’t getting enough power

Any suggestions?

GRUMPY
Thanks for the quick reply!
I lent out my DMM
Just got back from Home depot
Naturally they only had the $100 ones .
With that said, I need to wait till after the weekend to get my meter back.
Amazon might be quicker for $20

GRUMPY
Got my DMM

Pin 1 =9.5v
Pin3=9.2
Pin 4=23.5
Pin5=0
Pin 6=25v
Pin 7=0

When in test...
Pin 1 9.4
Pin 3 8
Pin 4 12
Pin 5 11
Pin 6 25
Pin7 9
The connector is kind of crappy on pin 7
I’ll make a new one soon as my crimper comes in.

I’m test mode boy it jumps like it really wants to spin but can’t .

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GRUMPY

It’s strange that I’m getting the 24v readings. What would cause that?
I’ll retest
Starting to think the connector is bad.
I ordered a new crimper

GRUMPY
So I did something stupid
I was measuring the voltage on the wrong side.
I’m gonna recheck the fuses again and then check the voltage from the correct side...
My crimper came in. First test moles crimp sucked
2nd test looked professional.
I think I’m going to make a new connector. Current one is kinda crappy.

Good time to check the voltage again.
I’ll test it as is and then in test mode.
I’ll post the results.
I’m one of the slow ones...

2nd crimp ever.
Ready for a real one.

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GRUMPY
Finally back to it ...
Pin 6 - grey & yellow is 10v

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And the wheel no longer wiggles

What next?
Trace the grey and yellow wire and look for ?

GRUMPY
It looks like the MW board plugs into an interconnect board. I think I located where the hey wire with yellow stripe connects to the board and I get like 9.9v.
I can re check but I’m away from the game for a few more days.
The power supply looks , crappy ( like most of the back box)
Wondering if it has an issue .
The upper left part of the power supply looks ugly;
Like it may have gotten a bit hot.
Maybe too hot?
I don’t know how to test it.

It sucks that it all did work in spite of looking so ugly. Now that I cleaned it up a bit it’s not working 100%
I want to figure out/ learn how to diagnose and repair stuff on it but I’m not exactly an electronic wiz.
And other than the help of a few kind folks my last step would be to call a repair guy. I want to be the repair guy but
I’m starting to think I’m a bit over my head.
Ugg.
What next?
Test the power supply? But where?

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GRUMPY
Thanks for all the help.
Summer wound down and I finally got back to it.
Turns out I have/ had a problem wire loose on the connector.
The boards look real ugly but crazy enough, they all work.
When I get a little further along, the board comes off, reflow the connector pins and make up a new connector.
It’s on the list.
Game is currently 100%
Except for the coin door.
The one light was cut off .
Looks like it melted a little bit and the fix was cut it off.
It will be my first “restoration”
I’ll be begging for help on a new post.
I’m going to try and document the process.
Maybe it will help someone out.
Thanks again.
-Nick