(Topic ID: 265244)

Cyclone kickers gone wild!


By Hapidance

64 days ago



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  • 91 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by Hapidance
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There are 91 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 64 days ago

I’ve gotten my Cyclone about. A year ago. It’s a bit rough but it all worked.
I corrected a few things, replaced a ramp added les.
Played well.
I decided to give it a well needed cleaning and address a few small issues I found.
The playfield is 90% reassembled and clean.
Soldered a loose diode under the spook house. Only one of the boomerang flashers was connected and working so I
Soldered the rest of the boomerang flashers. This may be the cause of my issues.
I turned on the pin and none of the kickers worked. The Ferris wheel didn’t work nor did the mystery wheel.The GI all worked fine. I had a blown the 2A fuse on the Aux power board.
I ordered a fuse set from Marco. Replaced the fuse then the fun started.
Turn the game on, without the ball, looks ok then a moment later, the right kicker pops twice . A few seconds later it pops 10 times along with the knocker. Put the ball in , no pop bumpers, no Ferris wheel, no mystery wheel.
The duck targets- hit all three and the kicker pops.
Cat targets- hit all three and the right and left kicker pops along with the knocker.
Hit the comet switch right kicker had a meltdown while all kickers popped then the fuse blew again.
This is where I am.... where do I go next?
I’m also going to create a post so I can try to tag a few people .
Thanks!
jeffzee jmckune grumpy

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#2 62 days ago

At the very least, it looks like the solder job on that diode has shorted the two terminals. See that big blob of solder at the top touching the ring underneath it? That’s the same ring the tab at the other end of the diode is connecting to. I would strongly recommend using some solder wick to clean up the connections, ensure you haven’t bridged anything that’s not supposed to be, and starting over. You also don’t have enough solder on the top leg of that diode for a good mechanical connection. A little vibration would weaken that enough for it to just pop loose again. The solder should envelop the lead pretty fully, not just create a small spot connection under the lead to the tab you’re trying to connect to. At the same time, you don’t want big blobs of solder hanging around where none is needed, which certainly looks like what’s shorting the connection between the red wire and the ring underneath it. Same story in the next picture down- there’s a wire there with no mechanical connection to the tab you’re soldering it to, just what looks like a way-too-big blob of solder forming a weak mechanical connection to the underside of the wire.

#3 62 days ago

It sounds like you've got a switch matrix issue. Could be a bad IC on the board, shorted wires, blown or broken off diode(s), incorrectly wired switches, etc. Personally, before putting a fuse back in I would put it into switch test mode and see where you're at. Repair the switches and get everything working, then go from there.

#4 58 days ago

geminiguy I suppose my soldering skills need a little honing...
Ok so wick up the solder test the diode strip the wire, get a good mechanical connection and re solder.
Wish I could find a picture to make sure I have the right wires going to the right places.
Thanks.

#5 58 days ago

In the absence of a picture, if you have (or can download) a schematic of the game, you should be able to trace where the leads are supposed to go.

#6 58 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Soldered a loose diode under the spook house

Was this a switch? How about a pic.

Quoted from Hapidance:

Soldered the rest of the boomerang flashers. This may be the cause of my issues.

Doubtful.

Quoted from Hapidance:

I had a blown the 2A fuse on the Aux power board.

Which one?

Quoted from Hapidance:

This is where I am.... where do I go next?

Disconnect j11 and j12 from the cpu. Replace the fuse that is burnt. Power up and listen for coils locking. Then run a switch test, see if any switches come up as double switches.

#7 57 days ago

grumpy Thank you for chiming in!
Here is a picture of the diode which was loose.
It lites the “spin the mystery wheel” and is mounted just below the flasher. When I tried to solder it the other wires popped off. I got them all to stick, but the solder is a bit gloppy. Hopefully i got them all in the rite place. I need to work on my soldering technique and get a new not too costly soldering iron . I kinda suck at soldering.

The fuse that keeps blowing is fuse 4 on the auxiliary power board.
Pulled j11 & j 12 game came up fine, no coils fired. Sounds and lights come up normal.
Sounds are normal.

Switch test:
All good except for the flippers didn’t work.
I’m guessing left anD right flippers lane change #57 &#58 would work if the j11&12 were plugged in?
They are in the same row of the switch matrix table.

What do I check next?

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#8 57 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Here is a picture of the diode which was loose.

Quoted from Hapidance:

Hopefully i got them all in the rite place.

It's wired correct, so not the issue.

Quoted from Hapidance:

Pulled j11 & j 12 game came up fine, no coils fired.

Did you replace the fuse first?

Quoted from Hapidance:

The fuse that keeps blowing is fuse 4 on the auxiliary power board.

This is for a 50 volt coil. Did you do any work on solenoid 3,4,7,13,14,18 and 20?

Quoted from Hapidance:

Switch test:
All good except for the flippers didn’t work.

Did the flippers not work when you pressed the cabinet switch? Or did the switch just not register when the flipper went up.

Quoted from Hapidance:

I’m guessing left anD right flippers lane change #57 : would work if the j11&12 were plugged in?

J-11 and J-12 have nothing to do with the switches.

#9 57 days ago

Disconnected J11 & J12 first then replaced the fuse.

I did take apart and reassemble the where the ball goes in boomerang I didn’t de solder anything.
Cleaned and reassembled. I did not take apart or mess with any coils.

The flippers don’t work with J11 & J12 unplugged.
If I turn off pin, plug them back in and hit start , the flippers work.
Powered down, unplugged J11 & J12.

All the lights work except for the flashers. No flashers work.

The spook house drop target doesn’t reset.

Could it be a solder drip ? Although I didn’t any drips.

Also mystery wheel doesn’t spin , prob a separate issue.

#10 57 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Disconnected J11 & J12 first then replaced the fuse.

J-11 and J-12 are on the CPU not J-11 and J-12 on the aux power supply.

#11 57 days ago

Ok
Plugged and unplugged.
Performed Switch test - they work
Coil test. This was strange. Only the left and right kickers fire.

Another blown fuse?
Visually, I don’t see any other blown fuses but I didn’t test all fuses with a meter.

#12 57 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Coil test. This was strange. Only the left and right kickers fire.

The pop bumpers didn't work?

#13 57 days ago

No pop bumpers. They don’t “pop”
But they do register on the switch test.
If I start a game the still don’t pop but the score registers .

#14 57 days ago

Check F-1 and F-3 on the aux power supply with a meter. See if one of these are burnt.

#15 56 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check F-1 and F-3 on the aux power supply with a meter. See if one of these are burnt.

I’ll have to wait till I get home from the office. I’m “essential” and have to work in the “NJ death zone”

I’ll check and report back
Thank you for all your help.

#16 56 days ago

BTW
No Ferris wheel and no mystery wheel.

Totally separate issues ?
Or
Can they be related?

#17 56 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Totally separate issues ?
Or
Can they be related?

You will soon find out.

#18 56 days ago

Lesson learned.
Test the fuse with a meter , test the fuse with a meter...
F3 F2 & f8 blown
F1 is ok
I think I got my pop bumpers back

#19 56 days ago

j11 & J12 still unplugged from the cpu board

#20 56 days ago

Ran the coil test and I have right & left slings working
Three working jet bumpers and working flippers.
All in the right direction

#21 56 days ago

Ok making progress, now with the power on. Use a dmm and test for continuity to ground on each of the J-11 and J-12 pins on the CPU board. Do any read less then .600 Meg ohms?

#22 55 days ago

grumpy Here’s where my inexperience really shows. I’m not sure I set the DMM to the rite setting.
Had it set the way it is in the picture .
Game is powered on
Black to ground red to the pins
Nothing changed on the meter. I’m sure I’m doing something wrong
(Feeling dumb)

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#23 55 days ago

Move the dial to the 2000k spot. Then retest.

#24 54 days ago

grumpy
That was a great help!
(I need a DMM for dummies video)

J11 pin5 =SOL-4
J12 pin5= SOL-12

Both pulse About once ever second
high to low between ~500 and ~1900.

All other pins don’t register anything .

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#25 54 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

J12 pin5= SOL-12

This is the A/C relay pulsing, this is normal.

Quoted from Hapidance:

J11 pin5 =SOL-4

This might be the problem. If the game is turning on solenoid 4 and 12 together, then some flashers are working in attract mode which maybe normal for this game. If they pulsing opposite then the boomerang kickbig coil is firing during attract mode which is not normal.
Turn of the power and reconnect both J-11 and J-12 to the cpu board. Turn on the game and listen for a coil locking on. Then start a game and check for proper operation.

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#26 54 days ago

Thanks again!

I’ll try that after work .

I haven’t seen any of my flashers work either.

#27 54 days ago

Flashers will work when you connect j-11 and j-12.

#28 53 days ago

The good:
I learned a ton of stuff with your help.
I was able to play a game.
The relay board, I replaced two pins on and made a connector for works!
For the first time the Gi blinks. It really makes a big difference during game play.
Flashers work just fine.
The boomerang flashers now also work.
I replaced the bulbs with new 28v blue flashers.
Huge improvement ; they look fantastic.
The still not working:

There is a 2nd relay in the back box needs to be installed. I replaced two burnt pins. Still need to make up a new connector and install it.
The bigger issue is The Mystery Wheel isn’t spinning
I’ll run the test again and see what error pops up.
The other new issue issue, commas are lighting up on the display when they shouldn’t.
But so far so good.

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#29 53 days ago

The error picture I posted may not be the actual error.
Need to run the test again and then see.

#30 53 days ago

Ugggg
Now the drop target won’t come up...
I’ll check for loose plug on the display.
Dirty optio on the drop target?

#31 53 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Now the drop target won’t come up...
I’ll check for loose plug on the display.
Dirty optio on the drop target?

Run the switch test to see if it shows in the down position.

Quoted from Hapidance:

The bigger issue is The Mystery Wheel isn’t spinning
I’ll run the test again and see what error pops up.

I think there is a relay board to turn on the motor. Check the back side for cracked pins, reflow if needed.

#32 53 days ago

grumpy
The Display connector was loose.
Ez fix.

The target is down.

The switch level test said
“Outhole 06 10”

The mystery wheel error is on the pic attached. During the test, the wheel twitches a bit like it want to spin but won’t. I’ll take a better look but I didn’t see any loose pins.

The back box has an odd Looking repair. I guess it’s ok for now? Not sure if it might have anything to do with the mystery wheel. I’ll lost a pic of that too.

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#33 53 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

The target is down.

The switch level test said
“Outhole 06 10”

06 means switch test. Outhole 10 means switch #10 is closed and its name is outhole. The bigger question is why is it closed? Is there a ball sitting on the switch, there shouldn't be. Is the switch stuck/ out of adjustment/ is the diode bent over shorting out the wires? Fix this then move on the the drop target.

Quoted from Hapidance:

The mystery wheel error is on the pic attached. During the test, the wheel twitches a bit like it want to spin but won’t. I’ll take a better look but I didn’t see any loose pins

When the motor is trying to spin, measure the voltage on the motor wires, what do you get?

Quoted from Hapidance:

The back box has an odd Looking repair. I guess it’s ok for now? Not sure if it might have anything to do with the mystery wheel. I’ll lost a pic of that too.

That is the back box GI wires. They should be connected to the innerconnect board on the left side wall of the back box. The connectors were melted so someone made this patch job.

#34 52 days ago

This is cool.
I’m off work till Monday I plan on spending some time trying to get things fixed.
I left the ball in while conducting the test yesterday. took out the ball , ran the switch test. All ok

If I run the coil test, the target pops up.

During gameplay, the target gets hit it drops.
Ball goes through and gets kicked out the boomerang.
Target does NOT reset.

I pick up the ball during game play and after a few seconds,
the boomerang kicker fires then the shooter lane kickbig fires and the Ferris wheel turns on.
With no ball, This repeats every 10 seconds or so.

I would think the target coil should fire to lift the target but it doesn’t .

Could I have missed a fuse and it’s effecting the mystery wheel?

#35 52 days ago

My drop target wasn't coming back up at one point. Just had to clean the opto and it's been working perfect for at least a year. Cleaning might fix, but could be broken too.

#36 52 days ago

jaytrem
I was thinking that. Might be a time to install the new ghost decal I have.

#37 52 days ago

grumpy
Mystery wheel :
I set the meter to DCV
Tested each pin on the pins which plug into the motor connector
Top pin 10
Next 5
Next 0
space
Next 4 ish
Bottom 5ish.

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#38 52 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

I left the ball in while conducting the test yesterday. took out the ball , ran the switch test. All ok

Now run switch test again, now test every switch on the switch matrix table for 5 seconds. Only the switch that you are pushing should show up on the display. Also does the drop target switch show up in display test when down.

Quoted from Hapidance:

If I run the coil test, the target pops up.

Yes coil works, but the opto switch needs to work for the coil to work in a game.

Quoted from Hapidance:

I would think the target coil should fire to lift the target but it doesn’t .

The cpu doesn't know its down if the opto switch doesn't work, so it work fire the coil.

Quoted from Hapidance:

Mystery wheel :

Where do these wires go(yellow arrow)? Give me a pic of the whole insert board.

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#39 52 days ago

I ran the switch test I did’t see where two switches showed up. Just for kicks , I held down two switches at once and saw how one would flash and then the other.
The drop target did not show up while the target is down while testing switches.
Couldn’t figure out the mystery Wheel opto switch 41...

Drop target opto dirty???

MW
The wires are red Brown Green black
Also attached a pic of the other side.
It wiggles a lot when testing but won’t turn . Almost like it’s just not getting enough power.
Tested power again
And get ~5 VDC on top two pins and bottom two pins.
Should I remove it and take a good look at all the soldering?

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#40 52 days ago

As for the drop target, ensure that you have 12 volts and ground at the board. If that is ok test the diode and clean the opto lenses. Also is the flag on the drop target still intacked?

#41 52 days ago

The flag on the drop target?

#42 52 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

The flag on the drop target?

It's the part of the target that blocks the opto.

#43 52 days ago

Ummmm
Sorry to ask a stupid question but I have no idea what it looks like or where it should be..

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#44 52 days ago

You can see it towards the top left of pic 2 in this ebay listing. Little piece the sticks out. It's what blocks the opto. So if you don't see anything sliding into the opto it probably broke off.

ebay.com link

#45 52 days ago

Here is a close up of the flag.

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#46 51 days ago

I took the opto board off. I figured I can clean it and change the decal on the drop targetThe flag looks in tact .
I don’t have a card.
Any other way to test the opto?

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#47 51 days ago

Poor Spook!

#48 51 days ago

jaytrem
Spook decal fixed.
grumpy
I think the opto is bad.
I took the board off, cleaned the opto
Plugged it in, ran the switch test
Ran the flag through the opto and nothing registered .
Looks like power is to the board .

Replaced the spook decal while I was at it.

Anything I should check on the board?

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#49 51 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Anything I should check on the board?

Check the header pins for cracked solder.
Test the diode.
Test the transistor
In switch test you can jumper pins 4 to 5, you should get switch #18 drop target on the display. This will ensure that the rest of the machine is working and your issue is the opto board.

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#50 51 days ago

Do you need to remove the transistor and diode to test?

Should I try cleaning the opto better?

When I jumped pins 4 & 5 on the board and the cpu read the switch on the test.
New board $30 or opto for $12 and hope it will work especially considering my awesome (sarcasm) soldering skills.

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