(Topic ID: 54473)

Cyclone Club...Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 1,804 posts
  • 241 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by jchybro
  • Topic is favorited by 114 Pinsiders

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#410 7 years ago

It's great to see so much love for Cyclone I'm finally getting around to working on mine and have a few questions I'm hoping someone might be able to answer. I'll post my laundry list below:

1. Lexan plastic shield over spook house - I see this mentioned prior on the thread and air balls off the spook house drop target are a big problem for me. Did anyone make these and have one for sale?

2. Cab paint colors - My cab is in pretty good shape and I really don't want to repaint the whole thing when touch ups should suffice. Has anyone found a good paint (type, finish) and color codes? Assume minimal fade.

3. Comet ramp switch - the metal arm on the switch up top on my comet ramp is broken so slow rolling balls don't register. Is there an off the shelf switch to buy or do I have to buy one with a long metal arm and bend it myself? If so, can someone post a pic of what it's supposed to look like?

4. Lock down bar - my lock down bar has a dent and the receiver is all rusted up. I can't seem to find replacement bars or receivers for system 11 games, do they exist?

5. Translite - do NOS or repro's exist?

6. Skill shot - when I hit the 100k skill shot it only registers about half the time, the other half I get 25k. I know I need to adjust the bank of switches, anyone else do this and have any tips?

Ok, I think that's all my questions. I do have a NOS cyclone ramp and a NOS subway ramp I got a few years ago when IPB was closing its doors. These old ramps are brittle so I'm putting in the nice new repro's. If anyone is a perfectionist and is doing a full restoration and only wants NOS parts in their machine, please let me know as I'll give them away at cost. If you've got a players machine, you don't want these ramps. Get the repro's. they are much better. Also, I'm doing a full pf swap in the next few months. I'm putting in a CPR pf and what's coming out is a very nice pf. It was a NOS pf that someone dropped in about 5 years ago and has full mylar on it. It does have a scratch in the left drain lane which is probably why it didn't go in a production game. If you're interested let me know, I'll sell for a reasonable price.

Thanks everyone!

#412 7 years ago

In a shameless attempt to bump my own post, I'll post a few pics of my homemade spook house guard. Not pretty but works for now.

Anyone, Cabinet paint color codes?

CPR playfield arrived today ($499 from PPS)

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7 months later
#463 6 years ago

Yes, every time you enter into the spook house the mystery wheel should spin. My guess is that mystery wheel has a crack in the plastic housing. Search pinside for mystery wheel won't spin and you should find lots of info on it.

#465 6 years ago

The power to the wheel should be the same in test mode as in game play. Do the easy part first, check to see if the mystery wheel is cracked. The pulsating you describe makes me wonder if it isn't getting enough power. What's your comfort level with a DMM to check the voltages on the mystery wheel board?

mysterywheel (resized).jpgmysterywheel (resized).jpg

#467 6 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Thanks for the pic of the wheel! I can pull it off and check it. I don't have a problem checking voltages as long as I know where to test.

The stepper motor attaches to the stepper motor board. Check the pins into the board and out to the motor. I don't know the correct voltage off hand but can check mine later.

#470 6 years ago

Pin 6 on the connector into the board should be 12v. Put the game in to mystery wheel test, leave the connector on, test the pins out to the motor. Pins 1,2,5,6 should read 5v DC. Observe the motor, is it spinning?

#473 6 years ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

When I hit the special on the mystery wheel I don't know what the reward is. My score does not change. Anyone know why?
Thanks

You set what the reward is in the menu settings. Options are xball, score or credit. I bet yours is set to credit so you never notice it.

4 months later
#491 6 years ago
Quoted from Kickout:

Joining the club. Picked up this Cyclone in Toms River NJ, about a month ago. It needed a good cleaning, new rings, just checked everything. Had to send the main board out for battery acid cleanup, a new battery holder install and overall board check. Just waiting for the board to come back. Hate to say this but only paid $200 for it. Planning on giving it to the grandchildren for their game room.

Thats a pretty nice playfield. Most Cyclones have a lot more wear than that. Your ducks targets (ball toss) are worn, I'm guessing your cat (shooting gallery) targets are too. $12 to get new stickers, you should consider getting some. Also, LED's make a huge difference. At a minimum, get the colored LCD's to match the inserts as it really makes things pop.

4 months later
#508 6 years ago

I've got that piece. It's 30 yrs old and kinda yellowed, but it's not broken. I took it off when I put on new CPR plastics. PM me your address and I'll send it to you if you want it.

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2 weeks later
#539 6 years ago
Quoted from flaa1a:

Do most of you have this piece on your Cyclone? I’m talking about the tickets plastic under the Ferris wheel. Mine is missing and I saw this one on another one here in town....just wondering?
Randy

Do you need this plastic? I'm sure I have my old one when I replaced the plastics.

Quoted from flaa1a:Do most of you have this piece on your Cyclone? I’m talking about the tickets plastic under the Ferris wheel. Mine is missing and I saw this one on another one here in town....just wondering?
Randy

1 week later
#552 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Anyone need a clear plastic to protect the drac plastic?
Just saw this:
ebay.com link

That plastic is used above the spook house to prevent balls from hitting the drop target and then flying straight back over the flippers. It's about time someone made those. Mine was handcrafted and looked like it.

#554 6 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi All,
I'm going through the diagnostics on my Cyclone and have a couple of questions (so far!).
1. What is the AC Select? When I get to that test, nothing seems to happen, I can hear a relay clicking, but don't observe anything other than that.
2. Same thing with the backbox GI lights test, I hear the relay clicking, but the lights don't flash. Is that correct? Could it have something to do with a blown GI fuse? I do have one blown fuse (White/Green wire on fuse holder).
3. Switch edge test shows #41, mystery wheel opto. Is that normal? The wheel spins and scores correctly.
Thanks for all of the help with this game so far.
-W

To answer your questions:

1. The A/C relay allows the game to drive two sets coils/flashers with only one set of driver transistors. The clicking you hear is normal.
2. As I recall, the GI lights should flash. Do the GI lights work in attract and game mode? I don't have the schematics in front of me, which fuse is blown? It should be labeled F1, F2, etc... And is it on the fuse block mounted to the cabinet head? Replace the fuse and see if it blows again and report back.
3. Perfectly normal for this switch to be on in the switch edge test.

#556 6 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Thanks for the reply.
1. TY
2. Yes, GI works in attract mode. Fuse block is not labeled. It's the 2nd fuse in from the front, white/green wiring. Yes, replaced fused blow immediately. It appears to me that the GI in the backbox is dimmer than it should be, but that could be my perception.
3. TY, that's what I figured.

Are all the GI lights working? I thought those 4 fuses were all GI, and if one is blown then some of the lights should be out? If that fuse isn't GI, then something must not be working? Coin door lights?

#559 6 years ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

I popped out the fuse on mine. I then lost the lights behind the coaster train on the back glass (GI not flashers). If yours are working perhaps some stuff was rerouted.

It can't be that. No one ever spends 2hrs hacking a work around as opposed to spending 30 minutes to fix the problem.

#565 6 years ago

Those lights look unusually dim. Can you trace the wires to the gi behind the coaster (the ones jaytrem says go out when he removed that fuse). Do they trace back to that fuse? Or are they split into a different gi wire?

#593 6 years ago
Quoted from dontfeed:

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=617&picno=10785&zoom=1
There's the board you're missing, but I'm not sure what it is at the moment. It does look similar to the Marco board. That's all I can do for you right now.

The missing board is the GI relay (solenoid 10). I assume the GI on your game isn't working?

3 weeks later
#621 5 years ago
Quoted from Cathaldub:

Does anyone know where I'd pickup the "Ride the comet for a million" plastic on its own, really stuck finding one.

Are you talking about the big plastic that goes all the way across the back of the game?

#633 5 years ago
Quoted from Cathaldub:

That's the one, I may have sourced one (fingers crossed)

Let me know if you need one. I still have my old one I took off when I installed a new CPR plastic set.

#647 5 years ago
Quoted from oldgodzilla:

Does anyone have plastics left over from buying the whole set? I'd love a whole set to buy, but if I can't get the whole set I'm looking for 2 pieces.
1) left bumper cover
2) this corner piece

Please let me know if you have them and I can buy them off you?
Thanks.
-og

Can you show pic of the two plastics you are looking for? I'm not sure I know which two you are looking for. I suspect I have them and I'll send you them for free.

Bob

1 week later
#666 5 years ago
Quoted from cp1610:

This ramp had been in the works for some time but was not completed until starship took over the ramp products from James who retired from the ramp business 3 years ago. James had stated a few times this ramp was coming it just was delayed. Yes it shouldn't break but it plastic and its a ramp in a pinball. The new one may never break under normal conditions its made way better then the factory original.

The comet and cyclone ramps were badly needed as most were cracked or broken due to the ball flying into them. I think the ferris ramp was more about anal collectors wanting everything to be new and perfect. Not that there are any anal collectors on pinside

11 months later
#769 4 years ago
Quoted from flukey:

Joined the Cyclone Club this time last year - my first pin! Stupidly bought it sight unseen and the playfield wear is pretty extensive. Still it plays well. Hoping they make a hardtop for Cyclone sometime soon!

Have you considered putting in a CPR playfield?

2 weeks later
#786 4 years ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

Left out hole when the ball ejects goes right down the middle, can I adjust the outhole?

Yes you can. Life the pf and loosen the screws attaching the scoop, adjust and re-tighten. (It might take a few tries to get it just right)

3 years later
#1466 1 year ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

I am considering covering my Cyclone playfield with one of the hardtops from http://www.outsideedgeproducts.com/store/p75/Pinball_Playfield_Hardtop.html, but I have never done so before. Two questions: (1) In case I elect a playfield swap instead, is anyone aware of repro playfields that are available? I'm finding them to be out of stock by the usual suppliers. (2) I have some cracked inserts, and once I install the hardtop will the original inserts still appear cracked even after sanding as part of my prep, or is the hardtop thickness such that the cracks won't be noticeable?
Thanks for any insights.

I'd contact cpr first to see if they plan to do another run anytime soon.

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