Pretty sure that relay you think is GI is the Ferris Wheel relay. The missing component is C-11998-1. It's the GI relay. The two wires crimped together effectively bypass what would be the GI relay.

cyclone_playfield_mechanisms.jpg

This part is out of stock at quite a few merchants but there are some that have them available.

• http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=C-11998-1
• ebay.com link: itm
• ebay.com link: itm

I am sure there are others.

I have this board available if you want one. You can see an image @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bringing-a-taxi-back-to-life-renew-and-refresh/page/2#post-6545202 if you're interested.

For LED flashers in a System 11B/11C game the above procedure works. It is a perfectly fine solution.

The original diodes are 1N4003. The 1N4001 is rated to 50V. The 1N4003 is rated to 200V. As the "50V" solenoid supply is often 70V-75V I would not recommend using the 1N4001. I would also not recommend a 1N4002 which is rated to 100V - not even double the solenoid supply voltage. I would use at least a 1N4003 - rated for more than double the solenoid voltage supply. What is commonly used across the machine is a 1N4004. Some people recommend using a 1N4007. These diodes can be found as cheap as $0.01 and $0.02.

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As someone who has spent a lot of a career working on things that someone else has done (maintenance of products) there is a small risk for potential problems with the above procedure. I have found that if there is a potential for a mistake then someone will make that mistake. I placed an emphasis on prevention. The problem pertains to the cutting of the diodes on the Auxiliary Power board and installing them at the solenoid. The other solenoids in the machine will not have a diode across the solenoid lugs. Someone inexperienced (or even someone experienced that knows the solenoid did not come with a diode wired across it from the factory) will remove the diode - assuming that as a Williams System 11B/11C game the diode should be on the board in the backbox. This leads to a blown transistor and possibly some swear words. If I saw this on a machine I would immediately think to remove the diode as it is not necessary. If I were alert and thinking I would ask myself "why is this diode installed when it does not need to be?" but sometimes I get ahead of myself. If I ask that question I would immediately think that someone just put a diode on it because they didn't know any better (or bought a solenoid with a pre-installed diode) before potentially wandering to the Auxiliary Power board where if there is sufficient illumination I may see the cut/missing diode.

As mentioned above this is a perfectly fine solution and it works. It just introduces a small risk for this potential problem. Unfortunately there is no clean solution that is easy to implement on the OEM board without some crazy wire routing.

Another simple solution is just leave one incandescent bulb in any of 3C, 4C, 6C or 7C. That's enough to stop the problem. I have two other solutions for this. One is simple, overkill, not cheap but requires no modifications of any kind. The other is currently in testing, much cheaper but does require cutting the diodes and creating a short cable (wire harness).

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You used a "new" style flipper link with conical springs. You should use an "old" style flipper link with conical springs. It's a subtle difference.

Alternatively you can use the "new" style flipper link but go with the external extension spring (WPC style) rather than the conical compression spring (System 11 style).

New style link = https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-link-new-style.html
Old style link = https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-tapered-flipper-link-old-style.html

The interconnect board is there for both convenience of assembly and disassembly. If the wires are crimped in a butt connector then you won't be able to easily remove the backbox insert. For some people that doesn't matter, until you need to remove the backbox insert. Then you're cutting wires.

At the very least, use a detachable (can be disconnected) connector. Perhaps Molex 0.093" pins and housings. If you want a replacement board, I have that board reproduced as well. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/10#post-6308140 bullet point #3.