(Topic ID: 54473)

Cyclone Club...Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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There are 1,804 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 37.
#151 10 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Since this is one of the few games if not the only one with red posts on the left side and blue posts on the right side of the playfield, I added some blue on the right and red on the left and threw in some nice green up top around and near the ferris wheel. Definitely add LEDS in the backbox, makes a big difference IMO.

I think I'll try adding a red LED to the drac hole. I did it on Taxi, and it looks good. I'm not sure where to position it on Cyclone -- too bad I don't have any flex reds.

-mof

#152 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I think I'll try adding a red LED to the drac hole. I did it on Taxi, and it looks good. I'm not sure where to position it on Cyclone -- to bad I don't have any flex reds.
-mof

That would look nice. Can't think of where to mount it without the pin in front of me. Let me know how it turns out. I'm gonna post some pics of my Cyclone when I get time to take some good pics, now that it's done...

#153 10 years ago

I tried red in the Drac Hole, then I realized there's a lot of red around that area, and the blue pops so nicely in the 2x-7x zone, so I went with blue, and I think it's a keeper. Now to find a nice place to mount it.
-mof

201312-cyclone-blue-drac-hole.jpg201312-cyclone-blue-drac-hole.jpg

#154 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I tried red, then I realized there's a lot of red around that area, and the blue pops so nicely in the 2x-7x zone, so I went with blue, and I think it's a keeper. Now to find a nice place to mount it.
-mof

Looks good. I put blue under the skillshot ramp and top right corner under the Cyclone ramp. Really makes it glow nicely. I gotta post some pics.

201312-cyclone-blue-drac-hole.jp... 232 KB

#155 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

thanks...
My goal is to brighten up the playfield a little... looking for a few spots to add light/color.-mof

try color changers

#156 10 years ago

My mystery wheel is fixed afaik... Dirty opto.

Just removed it in 30 seconds, and used a dry Qtip first, then another with a dash of 90% on there and then followed with a dry one. Seems like we are good.

5 minute fix. Went weeks with an easy to fix problem... sigh!

-mof

#157 10 years ago

Just achieved my best HS ever. 14 hours of TLC and the reward is nice ! Been consistently getting about 4mil a game (near replays) with an occasional 6-8mil. I have my game on 5-ball, and so don't compare my score to yours if you are on 3-ball, I still have the training wheels on ! Just hit 10mil. First time ever...

It never occurred to me how odd it is to have a 7-digit display in a game where scoring 10million (2x the replay) shouldn't be too uncommon of an occurrence.

-mof

201401-cyclone-mof-HS-10068280.jpg201401-cyclone-mof-HS-10068280.jpg

#158 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Just achieved my best HS ever. 14 hours of TLC and the reward is nice ! Been consistently getting about 4mil a game (near replays) with an occasional 6-8mil. I have my game on 5-ball, and so don't compare my score to yours if you are on 3-ball, I still have the training wheels on ! Just hit 10mil. First time ever...
It never occurred to me how odd it is to have a 7-digit display in a game where scoring 10million (2x the replay) shouldn't be too uncommon of an occurrence.
-mof

Nice game. Your replay is set at 5 mil?

#159 10 years ago

On 5-ball it's factory afaik: 4,200,000 and 8,400,000.
-mof

#160 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

On 5-ball it's factory afaik: 4,200,000 and 8,400,000.
-mof

I cracked 7 mil set on 3 ball the other day. Not bad considering I've played only a couple dozen times so far. Love the game so far but those outlanes can be so dam tough no matter how there setup.

#161 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

My mystery wheel is fixed afaik... Dirty opto.
Just removed it in 30 seconds, and used a dry Qtip first, then another with a dash of 90% on there and then followed with a dry one. Seems like we are good.
5 minute fix. Went weeks with an easy to fix problem... sigh!
-mof

Many times it's a dirty opto. Also make sure the allen screw where the wheel attaches to the motor shaft is tight. Not too tight though, the plastic will crack.

#162 10 years ago
Quoted from Toddzilla:

Many times it's a dirty opto. Also make sure the allen screw where the wheel attaches to the motor shaft is tight. Not too tight though, the plastic will crack.

Yeah, I spoke too soon, it's acting funny again. I get errors in test mode...

Err9 H 256

Sometimes it gets it right.

When it gets the 256 error, the wheel fails to come to a rest, the musical tones go "doo, doo, doo, doo, doo, doo, doo, doo, doo, ... doooooooooooooo" and hold while still spinning.

When it works right, it just makes the tones and stops promptly (in test mode).

-mof

#163 10 years ago
Quoted from Toddzilla:

Many times it's a dirty opto. Also make sure the allen screw where the wheel attaches to the motor shaft is tight. Not too tight though, the plastic will crack.

Where is this attachment? Just looked don't see it.
-mof

#164 10 years ago

Here is mine. Just recently completed the full shop job and LEDs. Did some trial and error on the left side with colors, so its not quite where I want it. Tried color matching with plastics but didnt like the green to red/orange then more green so tried just red and 1 orange up to the ball toss. May go all red through the ball toss and just green in the ferris wheel area. 2-7x did 2 each of green, red and blue and color matched the rest of the inserts. Did a red by left flipper and blue by the right flipper. May try red and blue under the slings to go with the red/blue posts theme. The mostly blue on the right side of the playfield to me looks good since almost everything is blue. Opinions? Cyclone-937.jpgCyclone-937.jpgWill most pictures soon

#165 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Where is this attachment? Just looked don't see it.
-mof

It's between the board and the steel plate behind the wheel. You'll need to remove the 4 screws that attaches the plate/wheel assembly to the head's door and pull the whole assembly out. It's almost impossible to see but it's there. If it's slipping, it'll cause problems. Just make sure it's snug and don't gorilla torque it, that rascal will crack!

#166 10 years ago
Quoted from Toddzilla:

It's between the board and the steel plate behind the wheel. You'll need to remove the 4 screws that attaches the plate/wheel assembly to the head's door and pull the whole assembly out. It's almost impossible to see but it's there. If it's slipping, it'll cause problems. Just make sure it's snug and don't gorilla torque it, that rascal will crack!

ty
mof

#167 10 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Just recently completed the full shop job and LEDs.

Looks great. I really need to put LEDs in mine one of these days. It looks so dull by comparison.

#168 10 years ago
Quoted from Toddzilla:

It's between the board and the steel plate behind the wheel. You'll need to remove the 4 screws that attaches the plate/wheel assembly to the head's door and pull the whole assembly out. It's almost impossible to see but it's there. If it's slipping, it'll cause problems. Just make sure it's snug and don't gorilla torque it, that rascal will crack!

I tried removing the 4 screws, but didn't see clearly how to then remove the gears.
One thing I am aware of is now the wheel has a hair less drag on it... but it's still erring out during test.
-mof

#169 10 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Looks great. I really need to put LEDs in mine one of these days. It looks so dull by comparison.

If you do LEDs, don't buy a kit. If you decide to do them, I can give you some insight as to how exactly I did mine and what colors and brightness worked well if you would like. I WILL post most pictures soon.

#170 10 years ago

If you do LEDs, get herg's LED OCD:

http://ledocd.com/

The Mystery Wheel lights won't look as good as incandescents without it.

viperrwk

#171 10 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

If you decide to do them, I can give you some insight as to how exactly I did mine and what colors and brightness worked well if you would like.

Thanks. I don't imagine I'll get to it for some time, though. If you do produce documentation, I'd love to have it.

#172 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I tried removing the 4 screws, but didn't see clearly how to then remove the gears.
One thing I am aware of is now the wheel has a hair less drag on it... but it's still erring out during test.
-mof

Sounds like you removed the screws to the back of the motor? I was referring to the ones attaching the whole assembly to the door pictured below. Sorry for the confusion. You can see the allen screw in the second pic.

DSC00952.jpgDSC00952.jpg
DSC00954.jpgDSC00954.jpg

#173 10 years ago
Quoted from Toddzilla:

Sounds like you removed the screws to the back of the motor? I was referring to the ones attaching the whole assembly to the door pictured below. Sorry for the confusion. You can see the allen screw in the second pic.

DSC00952.jpg 65 KB
DSC00954.jpg 48 KB

Ha, oh well, the field trip turned out the be a 1 hour time suck and frustrating, but at least I've done it ! haha

ty for the pics!

Ya, I don't think I have an allen wrench long enough to make it. Will figure that out another day.
-mof

#174 10 years ago

Dang, other than the mystery wheel, this Cyclone is playing great... Got the GI problem licked with the new connector. Now I'm wondering about removing the mylar...

Has anyone tried doing a mylar remove on their Cyclone? I've never done one. I have a few weird creases in the mylar on this guy... Would sure hate to hurt any of the perfect paint job on this guy...

-mof

#175 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Dang, other than the mystery wheel, this Cyclone is playing great... Got the GI problem licked with the new connector. Now I'm wondering about removing the mylar...
Has anyone tried doing a mylar remove on their Cyclone? I've never done one. I have a few weird creases in the mylar on this guy... Would sure hate to hurt any of the perfect paint job on this guy...
-mof

I'm tempted when I do another teardown to try and pull the mylar also. Like you said, just a bit afraid of what might ALSO come up. There are some threads on here detailing on "how to". The "freeze" method I hear works the best. Just havn't got the balls to try it yet.......yet

#176 10 years ago

Removing mylar from a System 11 that isn't Diamondplate is asking for trouble. I wouldn't do it unless you were ready to restore paint (which on Cyclone would be a nightmare.)

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shining-up-a-system-11-fire-playfield-after-mylar-removal

viperrwk

#177 10 years ago

I agree with viperrwk, I wouldn't do it! I used the freeze spray method on my Cyclone; the mylar came off with very minor paint loss. Would have been an easy fix and would have looked great. I used Goo Gone with a plastic razor blade to remove the adhesive. All was working fine then the paint started smearing as I wiped the residue from the playfield. I had to pick up another playfield.

#178 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Dang, other than the mystery wheel, this Cyclone is playing great... Got the GI problem licked with the new connector. Now I'm wondering about removing the mylar...
Has anyone tried doing a mylar remove on their Cyclone? I've never done one. I have a few weird creases in the mylar on this guy... Would sure hate to hurt any of the perfect paint job on this guy...
-mof

I'm going to pull mine one of these days too, the bubbling on the inserts is driving me crazy and sometimes alters the ball path. Now that I've read about the possibility of the paint smearing in addition to lifting, I'm hoping CPR is still making repros when I decide to go for it. If you do decide to try it, please keep us posted on the method you used and pics if possible.

#179 10 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

Removing mylar from a System 11 that isn't Diamondplate is asking for trouble. I wouldn't do it unless you were ready to restore paint (which on Cyclone would be a nightmare.)
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shining-up-a-system-11-fire-playfield-after-mylar-removal
viperrwk

Really having second thoughts now. I think mine is fine the way it is, would just look so much nicer w/o the mylar.

#180 10 years ago

CPR still has silver and bronze grade playfields in stock. Planetary still has gold class playfields. If you think Cyclone is a keeper and you want a nice playfield I would buy it now even if you don't install it now as when its gone, it's usually gone forever.

viperrwk

#181 10 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

CPR still has silver and bronze grade playfields in stock. Planetary still has gold class playfields. If you think Cyclone is a keeper and you want a nice playfield I would buy it now even if you don't install it now as when its gone, it's usually gone forever.
viperrwk

Just what is the difference between the 3 grades anyways? Never looked very deep into a new playfield.....yet. But really thinking about it w/Cyclone.

#182 10 years ago
Quoted from viperrwk:

CPR still has silver and bronze grade playfields in stock. Planetary still has gold class playfields. If you think Cyclone is a keeper and you want a nice playfield I would buy it now even if you don't install it now as when its gone, it's usually gone forever.
viperrwk

How do we know it's a gold at Planet?
-mof

#183 10 years ago

A couple photos to help justify a new PF - makes a huge difference.

DSC_0567_20131112_2905.JPGDSC_0567_20131112_2905.JPG DSC_0588_20131112_2926.JPGDSC_0588_20131112_2926.JPG DSC_0568_20131112_2906.JPGDSC_0568_20131112_2906.JPG
#184 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

How do we know it's a gold at Planet?
-mof

Price.

viperrwk

#185 10 years ago

That's tempting. My playfield is mylared and looks good, but these are so much better. I've never done a playfield swap, however. Any guess how many hours it would take someone (slow) to do it for the first time?

#186 10 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

That's tempting. My playfield is mylared and looks good, but these are so much better. I've never done a playfield swap, however. Any guess how many hours it would take someone (slow) to do it for the first time?

Depends upon how much cleaning/refreshing of parts you want to do.

With all the photos you will need to take along the way, matching things up, drilling holes, etc not to mention Cyclone is one of your more complicated games because of the multiple ramps/subways/etc, you're probably looking at two full weekends easy.

viperrwk

#187 10 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Just what is the difference between the 3 grades anyways? Never looked very deep into a new playfield.....yet. But really thinking about it w/Cyclone.

http://classicplayfields.com/standards.html

viperrwk

#188 10 years ago

Good point. I would like to know the same thing. My guess is between 50-100 hours. I can't think about following through with my first swap, until I figure out a rotisserie and a tumbler solution.

-mof

#189 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Good point. I would like to know the same thing. My guess is between 50-100 hours. I can't think about following through with my first swap, until I figure out a rotisserie and a tumbler solution.
-mof

Oh, I was assuming that time with a rotisserie - I couldn't even imagine doing it in the machine without one. You'd drive yourself crazy!

viperrwk

#190 10 years ago

It might well take me five years to get to it at the rate I am going. Still, I am imagining at this point the Cyclone is one of the pins that I will hold onto longest. It's just so different from anything else I now have. Also, it is easy to understand without being too simple. Consequently, it's a really good pin for guests, and I continue to enjoy it.

1 week later
#191 10 years ago
Quoted from jchybro:

A couple photos to help justify a new PF - makes a huge difference.

DSC_0567_20131112_2905.JPG 72 KB

DSC_0568_20131112_2906.JPG 63 KB

DSC_0588_20131112_2926.JPG 98 KB

Very nice! Mine looks fine, but that really is a big improvement w/ a new playfield.

1 week later
#192 10 years ago

Hi guys, I'm planning a long term restore of my Cyclone. I have a CPR playfield and plastics and plan to buy the ramps that are now available. One thing mine could use is the blue skill shot plastic with the holes. Does anyone know if that has ever been reproduced. As far as I know, it hasn't, but I thought I'd ask the group.

#193 10 years ago

I'm thinking of going the same route, but doing a CPR restore would be months away for me. Hope you take 900+ pictures as you go, for those of us thinking about doing the same. As for the blue plastic, wish I had info to help out.
-mof

#194 10 years ago

Great pinball , it's a lot of fun.

#195 10 years ago
Quoted from tbanthony:

Hi guys, I'm planning a long term restore of my Cyclone. I have a CPR playfield and plastics and plan to buy the ramps that are now available. One thing mine could use is the blue skill shot plastic with the holes. Does anyone know if that has ever been reproduced. As far as I know, it hasn't, but I thought I'd ask the group.

The blue skill shot aka shuttle ramp has never been reproduced. It gets the least amount of abuse compared to all the other ramps. It comes up for sale on ebay from time to time and it has sold for much less than the other ramps used to (before the repros.) Since for most people it is in good shape there usually isn't much competition for it in the bidding department.

viperrwk

#196 10 years ago

I've seen a few post surrounding playfield swap and the amount of time. I've done a full swap and then some on Cyclone. I would guess the swap part to be 30-40 hours, going slow. That assumes refinish of metals, tumbling, cleaning, and etc....

Cyclone is not that bad for a swap. It was my first. The biggest PIA was the ground braid for GI that is stapled to the play field. I recycled mine, what a mistake. Buy new ground braid. And you will need the correct stapler to staple the ground braid back. I'm sure it can go faster (swap in 30-40), but it was my first as well. I really enjoyed the swap.
It plays better then a new machine. The action between the pop bumpers is awesome. Really speeds up the game (clear coated play field).

I've got pictures I can later post. Let me know what areas you have of concern.

I've probably got almost 70-80 hours in mine....

Here is what i have put into mine:
- new cpr play field
- new cpr plastics
- new xpin power board
- new GPM GI Relay board
- New rotten dog led displays
- CPU board repaired
- New Glass
- Full rebuild on Flippers-Mechs, bats, etc.....
- New switches for slings
- new pop bumper body and caps
- all new stickers for targets
- repaint of coin door, legs, etc...
- bondo repair and partial repaint of cab
- Mantis protectors for ramps
- Repair and polish of ramps
- New ramp (Which i have to install)
- Cointaker LEDS
- Lighted flipper buttons and Dracula hole

#197 10 years ago

BrianZ, that would be awesome if you could post pics.

I am with many others that are considering a pf swap. The new ramps have me wanting to go the extra mile and restore the machine.

#198 10 years ago
Quoted from tbanthony:

One thing mine could use is the blue skill shot plastic with the holes. Does anyone know if that has ever been reproduced. As far as I know, it hasn't, but I thought I'd ask the group.

Is your skill shot ramp in terrible shape? i have an extra and it's in OK shape - needs a cleaning and has some broken holes (see pic). I'll send it to you if it is an improvement over what you have.

photo (1).JPGphoto (1).JPG
#199 10 years ago

Speaking of the skill shot ramp, I am missing one of the wire gates on that ramp (the top one not that I think it matters). Does anyone know where I can get one? Thanks!

#200 10 years ago

If you are missing the last one, you can't land the ball in 5K - is that the case?

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