(Topic ID: 54473)

Cyclone Club...Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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There are 1,794 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 36.
#1401 1 year ago

Thanks! I have some Lexan. I also have the tools to cut and polish it at my work. I look forward to getting started on the restoration. I want to make it a one of a kind, HEP type Cyclone. I'll post here in a couple of months when I get started on it.

#1402 1 year ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

Coaster 3D prints of Comet and Cyclone from Mr_Tantrum make a great topper.

Can you elaborate further? Pics and/or links would be awesome!

Jaz

#1403 1 year ago
Quoted from Jazman:

Can you elaborate further? Pics and/or links would be awesome!

I don't know if he's still doing them.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cyclone-comet-coaster

I've been planning on lighting them up and triggering the lights with the ramp inserts, but other projects are distracting me. They still look great unlit though.

#1404 1 year ago
Quoted from jazc4:

I plan on starting a full restore on a Cyclone in a couple of months. It will get LEDs, new rubbers, and either a hardtop or new playfield. What MODs are there for this game and which do you recommend? Thanks!

When I restored mine I did repainted my Ferris wheel and gave it some metal flake. Redid the ramp in a nice deep blue also….

11F90DA8-DB10-4771-B3C0-F1F27AF2ED55 (resized).jpeg11F90DA8-DB10-4771-B3C0-F1F27AF2ED55 (resized).jpegCF83673E-AC23-4733-B2F0-FF6D1D2EEC52 (resized).jpegCF83673E-AC23-4733-B2F0-FF6D1D2EEC52 (resized).jpegE7F6DF76-4929-409F-9F96-7116A3D16017 (resized).jpegE7F6DF76-4929-409F-9F96-7116A3D16017 (resized).jpeg
#1405 1 year ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

When I restored mine I did repainted my Ferris wheel and gave it some metal flake. Redid the ramp in a nice deep blue also….
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's sweet. I will definitely do something like that.

#1406 1 year ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

I don't know if he's still doing them.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cyclone-comet-coaster
I've been planning on lighting them up and triggering the lights with the ramp inserts, but other projects are distracting me. They still look great unlit though.

I am thinking if it's possible I'd add people on the coaster. Time to search Ebay for Ronald and Nancy.

#1407 1 year ago

I love the metal flake. And that clear plastic ramp looks amazing too. Did you polish it somehow? I've tried using the stuff they recommend for car headlight covers but it doesn't seem to have done much.

#1408 1 year ago

Hoping for some assistance - my left flipper quit working in the middle of a game. The flipper button is not registering in switch test. I replaced the leaf switch and that didn’t do the trick. What else should I be looking at?

#1409 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Did you polish it somehow?

flame polishing works, but with the risk of warping the plastic all to hell if you're not careful. i've done it myself, so if I can do it, for real anyone can.

#1410 1 year ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

The flipper button is not registering in switch test.

If I remember right, the flipper button on System 11 doesn’t register in switch test. It’s the lane-change switch that registers, and that only registers if the flipper moves. First thing I’d do is check for voltage at the coil. Look at your flipper coil and find the two diodes next to the lugs. Each of those diodes will have a white line/band around it on one side. With the machine ON, put your multimeter in DC voltage mode, carefully touch the red lead to the outside lug on the coil on side of the diode with the band (this is where power comes in), and touch the black lead to the ground braid inside the cabinet. Should see around 50 volts on your meter.

#1411 1 year ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

If I remember right, the flipper button on System 11 doesn’t register in switch test. It’s the lane-change switch that registers, and that only registers if the flipper moves. First thing I’d do is check for voltage at the coil. Look at your flipper coil and find the two diodes next to the lugs. Each of those diodes will have a white line/band around it on one side. With the machine ON, put your multimeter in DC voltage mode, carefully touch the red lead to the outside lug on the coil on side of the diode with the band (this is where power comes in), and touch the black lead to the ground braid inside the cabinet. Should see around 50 volts on your meter.

Add to above: blown fuse? wire connection continuity? bad coil winding? broken EOS switch?
--------------- broken flipper components?

#1412 1 year ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

If I remember right, the flipper button on System 11 doesn’t register in switch test. It’s the lane-change switch that registers, and that only registers if the flipper moves. First thing I’d do is check for voltage at the coil.

Thanks. I hadn't looked at anything much beyond the leaf switch because I didn't realize that the flipper button itself isn't actually what's registering in switch test. Now it makes a little more sense. I recently did a flipper rebuild so hopefully nothing is wrong with the flipper mechs - maybe it's just a bad solder job by me. Can I rule out a blown fuse if one flipper is working, or are the flippers on separate fuses?

#1413 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I love the metal flake. And that clear plastic ramp looks amazing too. Did you polish it somehow? I've tried using the stuff they recommend for car headlight covers but it doesn't seem to have done much.

Those ramps are brand new, no flame polishing required.

#1414 1 year ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Can I rule out a blown fuse if one flipper is working, or are the flippers on separate fuses?

There is a fuse for each flipper, F5 and F6 on the Aux Power Driver board.

1 week later
#1415 1 year ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Those ramps are brand new, no flame polishing required.

I just replaced mine also. The difference is pretty striking. So clear. The fit wasn’t exactly like the original, and required some work to get the fit right. I can’t fit my front pop bumper cap on. No room for it now. I’m ordering the one that has one side cut, for TAF and other tight spots. Very happy with the clarity tho. The drop hole on the Comet ramp was too small and the ball got stuck in it. I used a dremel and made it slightly wider. Someday a new pf!

C7C7F1C8-66D1-428E-8AAD-45BDB9D1E8D2 (resized).jpegC7C7F1C8-66D1-428E-8AAD-45BDB9D1E8D2 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#1416 1 year ago

I have started work on my Cyclone. The first step was to scan it in and I now have a 600dpi record of what the playfield looked like, dirt and all, just in case something happened. I have Photoshop Elements and I have to say I was really impressed with its ability to merge the scans together (I used a standard Epson Perfection 8.5 x 11 scanner laying on the playfield) - i just gave it the overlapping pics and it stitched them together and even adjusted the colors to match it all.

I think I will do another one when I get the dirt and swirls off - if anyone is interested I can send them the full sized image (2gb) (but its pretty dirty, see below)

Cyclone-Playfield-Full-Dirty (resized).jpgCyclone-Playfield-Full-Dirty (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1417 1 year ago

Hi Guys, I am having issues locating a part for my cyclone. The ball gate for the Ferris wheel part number A-12160. Any help would be awesome. Cheers

PXL_20220830_130332752.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20220830_130332752.MP (resized).jpg
#1418 1 year ago
Quoted from Dukznutz:

Hi Guys, I am having issues locating a part for my cyclone. The ball gate for the Ferris wheel part number A-12160. Any help would be awesome. Cheers
[quoted image]

You will likely need to buy some music wire and make one. Lowes carries it in their bins. Search it before you go and it will give you the location in the store.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-6-in-Aluminum-Music-Wire/3478173

#1419 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I have started work on my Cyclone. The first step was to scan it in and I now have a 600dpi record of what the playfield looked like, dirt and all, just in case something happened. I have Photoshop Elements and I have to say I was really impressed with its ability to merge the scans together (I used a standard Epson Perfection 8.5 x 11 scanner laying on the playfield) - i just gave it the overlapping pics and it stitched them together and even adjusted the colors to match it all.
I think I will do another one when I get the dirt and swirls off - if anyone is interested I can send them the full sized image (2gb) (but its pretty dirty, see below)[quoted image]

What did you use to scan it?

#1420 1 year ago
Quoted from jazc4:

What did you use to scan it?

I have an epson perfection scanner. I removed the plastic flashing around the edge which allows the glass to touch the playfield. This allows for good quality scans. Here is a piece of my original, scanned at 600dpi.
original scanoriginal scan

The big problem is of course that it is only 8.5 x 11 and the scans need to be stitched together. I did the automated route and in checking it, its pretty close. The overall height of the graphic as measured on the playfield is 37.75 inches. As measured on my graphic, it is 37.7

However I did notice where the software messed up at the edges though. Here is the extreme top. Note how the software matched up down at the rollovers but didn't get the very top. I will have to do it manually I guess.Cyclone topCyclone top

#1421 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I have an epson perfection scanner. I removed the plastic flashing around the edge which allows the glass to touch the playfield. This allows for good quality scans. Here is a piece of my original, scanned at 600dpi.
[quoted image]
The big problem is of course that it is only 8.5 x 11 and the scans need to be stitched together. I did the automated route and in checking it, its pretty close. The overall height of the graphic as measured on the playfield is 37.75 inches. As measured on my graphic, it is 37.7
However I did notice where the software messed up at the edges though. Here is the extreme top. Note how the software matched up down at the rollovers but didn't get the very top. I will have to do it manually I guess.[quoted image]

That's freakin cool. I want to learn how to do this.

2 weeks later
#1422 1 year ago
Quoted from jazc4:

That's freakin cool. I want to learn how to do this.

I posted some more detail in this thread, when I first started it was blurry but now its working quite well. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scanner-alternative-to-hp

I used it to scan in my whole Ice-Revue, recreate the artwork in photoshop and print out a "soft top" that I stuck on and coverd with clear, as I had a lot of trouble with painting
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-restore-of-an-ice-revue/page/3#post-6545018

1 week later
#1423 1 year ago

I have a scan of a repro playfield if you need

#1424 1 year ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

I have a scan of a repro playfield if you need

I could use that.

#1425 1 year ago

the top of my playfield is worn away around the 1-2-3 lights (see picture above) so I decided that when I put on a replacement graphic I would add in our family. I took pics of us looking up and patched them in. Its back at the back end of the playfield so not real noticable but I think its fun for our family!

resized cyclone top (resized).jpgresized cyclone top (resized).jpg
#1426 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

the top of my playfield is worn away around the 1-2-3 lights (see picture above) so I decided that when I put on a replacement graphic I would add in our family. I took pics of us looking up and patched them in. Its back at the back end of the playfield so not real noticable but I think its fun for our family!
[quoted image]

That's freakin awesome!

#1427 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

the top of my playfield is worn away around the 1-2-3 lights (see picture above) so I decided that when I put on a replacement graphic I would add in our family. I took pics of us looking up and patched them in. Its back at the back end of the playfield so not real noticable but I think its fun for our family!
[quoted image]

Easily one of the coolest and most creative mods i've seen! Bravo!

1 week later
#1428 1 year ago

It is a very cool mod @mark532011. For another, I noticed coasterdynamix now makes an electroluminescent "Cyclone" sign 7.5" long:

https://www.coasterdynamix.com/products/cyclone-electroluminescent-sign

Cyclone1 (resized).jpgCyclone1 (resized).jpg
#1429 1 year ago

That's cool. where are you going to install it?

#1430 1 year ago

that would be a cool centerpiece of a custom topper!

#1431 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

that would be a cool centerpiece of a custom topper!

Can you 3D print a Cyclone rollercoaster to fit the top of the backbox? The lighted sign would look cool on that!

#1432 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

That's cool. where are you going to install it?

It reminds me of those lighted graphics in car door sills. No door sills here, so I don't know. It'd look cool above the coin box, but then who'd see it?

#1433 1 year ago
Quoted from clodpole:

It reminds me of those lighted graphics in car door sills. No door sills here, so I don't know. It'd look cool above the coin box, but then who'd see it?

your balls would

#1434 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

your balls would

Hah! I get to see the real Cyclone in a week - on Coney Island. Maybe it'll inspire me to think of a location for the cool little lighted sign.

#1435 1 year ago

let us know where it goes. I like the looks of it but just don't see where it can go.

1 month later
#1436 1 year ago

This might be an odd question, but i'll ask anyway.
I will most likely be bringing my cyclone home from my parents house and swapping it out with game show for my father.

It's a reimport i've had for a pretty long time.

So, the wheel is not real. It's more a light show.
The decal is on the glass. Had me fooled until i had 2 cyclones at the same time and i was troubleshooting one using the other and had the glass out of both.

Now that the stepper board, motor and wheel can be purchased, could i retrofit the real wheel in?
Rom change?
The reality is that the fake wheel is most likely less troublesome, but i'm curious anyway.

#1437 1 year ago
Quoted from jcar302:

This might be an odd question, but i'll ask anyway.
I will most likely be bringing my cyclone home from my parents house and swapping it out with game show for my father.
It's a reimport i've had for a pretty long time.
So, the wheel is not real. It's more a light show.
The decal is on the glass. Had me fooled until i had 2 cyclones at the same time and i was troubleshooting one using the other and had the glass out of both.
Now that the stepper board, motor and wheel can be purchased, could i retrofit the real wheel in?
Rom change?
The reality is that the fake wheel is most likely less troublesome, but i'm curious anyway.

I would assume it to be an easy swap. Even if there are board issues on that "solenoid" (drives from a sol line), it should be an easy fix. You could test the line before hand with a probe.

#1438 1 year ago

Not sure if the game is supposed to do this, any help appreciated.

When ball is coming down the inlane, the ball bounces on the flipper rubber really messing with timing of the shots. Is this typical on this game?

#1439 1 year ago
Quoted from JakePG:

Not sure if the game is supposed to do this, any help appreciated.
When ball is coming down the inlane, the ball bounces on the flipper rubber really messing with timing of the shots. Is this typical on this game?

That's called "ball hop" or "flipper hop" Do a search in Pinside, it's been a subject for years. You will find good suggestions.

#1440 1 year ago
Quoted from JakePG:

When ball is coming down the inlane, the ball bounces on the flipper rubber really messing with timing of the shots.

Take a look at Cliffy’s Enhanced Flipper Return Frames. Cyclone uses common frames, 8108-L and 8108-R.
https://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

#1441 1 year ago

Perfect. Thanks a lot. I'll try out those cliffys

#1442 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I would assume it to be an easy swap. Even if there are board issues on that "solenoid" (drives from a sol line), it should be an easy fix. You could test the line before hand with a probe.

Thanks, when i bring it home, i might give it a try.

#1443 1 year ago
Quoted from jcar302:

This might be an odd question, but i'll ask anyway.
I will most likely be bringing my cyclone home from my parents house and swapping it out with game show for my father.
It's a reimport i've had for a pretty long time.
So, the wheel is not real. It's more a light show.
The decal is on the glass. Had me fooled until i had 2 cyclones at the same time and i was troubleshooting one using the other and had the glass out of both.
Now that the stepper board, motor and wheel can be purchased, could i retrofit the real wheel in?
Rom change?
The reality is that the fake wheel is most likely less troublesome, but i'm curious anyway.

There are pictures of this on IPDB claiming it's the Japanese export version. I'd keep it as is and have something unique. There can't be that many of them.

#1444 1 year ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

There are pictures of this on IPDB claiming it's the Japanese export version. I'd keep it as is and have something unique. There can't be that many of them.

I've had that thought as well.
No matter what i did, i was never going to permanently alter it.

The reality is that it's just an idea at this point.
Who knows, i may not keep it that long after i shop it out again.

When i get it here (my parents only live a couple miles away), i'll take some pics so everyone can see what it looks like.
Because i remember the first time i noticed it, i was seriously confused.

#1445 1 year ago
Quoted from jcar302:

I've had that thought as well.
No matter what i did, i was never going to permanently alter it.
The reality is that it's just an idea at this point.
Who knows, i may not keep it that long after i shop it out again.
When i get it here (my parents only live a couple miles away), i'll take some pics so everyone can see what it looks like.
Because i remember the first time i noticed it, i was seriously confused.

I was not aware of this version. You will need to check for the proper wiring and other things before putting one in. There is a separate board that runs the stepper too. Probably a lot involved. Post up pics if you pick it up.

#1446 1 year ago

I have a question about lights. I am redoing some missing stuff under the playfield.

Page 44 of the manual says most of the medium socket lamps are #89 flashlamps. Easy enough, but number 15 (Boomerang Flasher) is a #1251

However, under the playfield there are 3 lamps along that insert. Are they all #1251's or just the one on the end?

https://www.ipdb.org/files/617/Williams_1988_Cyclone_Manual_Schematics.pdf

#1447 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I have a question about lights. I am redoing some missing stuff under the playfield.
Page 44 of the manual says most of the medium socket lamps are #89 flashlamps. Easy enough, but number 15 (Boomerang Flasher) is a #1251
However, under the playfield there are 3 lamps along that insert. Are they all #1251's or just the one on the end?
https://www.ipdb.org/files/617/Williams_1988_Cyclone_Manual_Schematics.pdf

I believe all three are 1251's

-Paul

#1448 1 year ago

Thanks!

whoever worked on it didn't pay much attention. the bulbs are screwy in this thing. There is a mixture of 1251's and 89's all over. Weird because the 1251's are 28v so i wouldn't think they would even light in a 89 socket

#1449 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Thanks!
whoever worked on it didn't pay much attention. the bulbs are screwy in this thing. There is a mixture of 1251's and 89's all over. Weird because the 1251's are 28v so i wouldn't think they would even light in a 89 socket

There are 28v lights in the flashers in the subway if I remember correctly.

#1450 1 year ago

Moving in with my resto. I am looking for help on mounting the center drop target opto board. Does anyone have a pic if theirs?
The board looks to need washers but is too sloppy. The manual says it needs a spring but there is too little space for one. The manual is difficult to decypher on this.
reading it in order, it sounds like:
washer
e-ring
spring
washer
opto-board
spring
washer
e-ring
grommet
but the washer has to be at the bottom touching the drop target as it is the right size to slide in the groove and the opto board doesn't fit where the shaft changes size so there has to be a washer there.

7F9B47C4-FB97-4B2B-82B2-1ACE7921DB7F (resized).jpeg7F9B47C4-FB97-4B2B-82B2-1ACE7921DB7F (resized).jpegF874810F-6AC6-42FF-A820-C80EEC6EE71D (resized).jpegF874810F-6AC6-42FF-A820-C80EEC6EE71D (resized).jpeg

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