That plastic is used above the spook house to prevent balls from hitting the drop target and then flying straight back over the flippers. It's about time someone made those. Mine was handcrafted and looked like it.

Hi All,

I'm going through the diagnostics on my Cyclone and have a couple of questions (so far!).

1. What is the AC Select? When I get to that test, nothing seems to happen, I can hear a relay clicking, but don't observe anything other than that.

2. Same thing with the backbox GI lights test, I hear the relay clicking, but the lights don't flash. Is that correct? Could it have something to do with a blown GI fuse? I do have one blown fuse (White/Green wire on fuse holder).

3. Switch edge test shows #41, mystery wheel opto. Is that normal? The wheel spins and scores correctly.

Thanks for all of the help with this game so far.

-W

To answer your questions:

1. The A/C relay allows the game to drive two sets coils/flashers with only one set of driver transistors. The clicking you hear is normal.
2. As I recall, the GI lights should flash. Do the GI lights work in attract and game mode? I don't have the schematics in front of me, which fuse is blown? It should be labeled F1, F2, etc... And is it on the fuse block mounted to the cabinet head? Replace the fuse and see if it blows again and report back.
3. Perfectly normal for this switch to be on in the switch edge test.

Thanks for the reply.

1. TY
2. Yes, GI works in attract mode. Fuse block is not labeled. It's the 2nd fuse in from the front, white/green wiring. Yes, replaced fused blow immediately. It appears to me that the GI in the backbox is dimmer than it should be, but that could be my perception.
3. TY, that's what I figured.

Are all the GI lights working? I thought those 4 fuses were all GI, and if one is blown then some of the lights should be out? If that fuse isn't GI, then something must not be working? Coin door lights?

That's the weird thing. From what I can tell, all the GI lights are working. Perhaps there is one hidden under a ramp or a plastic, but I don't see it. The coin door lights are lit as well.

I popped out the fuse on mine. I then lost the lights behind the coaster train on the back glass (GI not flashers). If yours are working perhaps some stuff was rerouted.

It can't be that. No one ever spends 2hrs hacking a work around as opposed to spending 30 minutes to fix the problem.

Hoping someone can give me any leads on fixing the display. As you can see, I get backslashes in display 1 and 2. For years it was only on display 1 and has now moved to display 2 also. I've replaced the ribbon cable and reseated a few times, no luck.

Any ideas?

20180416_183350 (resized).jpg

Thanks Jaytrem. was that definitely the white/green wire?

Those lights work on mine. I don't see any hack. However, the lights behind the title are dimmer than the other GI lights. Are yours like that too? I'm attaching a picture.

IMG_2247 (resized).jpg

Hmmm, looking at that pic I noticed that there's another screwy thing. While I was doing the individual light test today, I noticed that the Mystery Wheel #8 and #9 lights (6 o'clock and the next one) did not test. However, they are lit in the picture which was taken during attracting mode.

Yup, white/green, 2nd from the front. 99.9% sure none of my lights are dim like that, that's quite a difference. I'll check to make sure though.

Got red LEDs there, seem as bright as the whites behind the train.

Thanks

Those lights look unusually dim. Can you trace the wires to the gi behind the coaster (the ones jaytrem says go out when he removed that fuse). Do they trace back to that fuse? Or are they split into a different gi wire?

Working on it.

On mine, the coaster lights and the title lights are on the same fuse, the one closest to the rear of the game (White/Black wire).

The title lights seem dim, perhaps there is a short between the two circuits, although just one of the fuses blow.

I did find a hack though. apparently someone had cut and spliced wires going from the interconnect board to the backbox GI. The splices look ok, although the wiring colors have been changed. It looks like when the splices were made, the wires may have been connected in the wrong order. Can you check your interconnect board. If you look at the top 2 connectors, do they have the same color coded wires across the two connectors and in the same order? ie: white/green on bottom, solid green on pin 3 etc?

Here are some pics.

IMG_2252 (resized).jpg
IMG_2251 (resized).jpg

I'll take a look when I get home. Looks like you might be on the right trail. I guessing if you want everything to work the way they're supposed to you'll need to get the title and the train lights separated. They're not always supposed to be on at the same time. Probably not a big deal, just depends on how picky you are.

No clue on that one. I do have an odd thing my Comet displays, the commas for player 1 show up on player 3 and 2 on 4, etc. New pinscore displays, purchased by previous owner, old ribbon cables though. Haven't messed with it much yet, today will be my last day playing it before doing a bunch of work on it. so we'll see.

I’m more concerned about the lights being dim. I’m wondering if the problem lies somewhere on the interconnect board. If the connector was replaced, perhaps the header was as well.

It does seem like the connector might be off. On mine the colors match up exactly with the ones on the other connector across from it. So starting with pin1 at the top looks like it should go black, green, red, blue for yours. Hopefully useful pics in a sec...

15239975598432068624107 (resized).jpg

15239976131301876006647 (resized).jpg

Thanks,

I'll swap them out and report back. I suspect that it won't make a difference, I'm guessing that each pin puts out the same voltage and it always on, but it's a place to start. I'm thinking there may be a short under the header.

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UPDATE

Well, I connected the wires correctly. No difference.

I did notice that if I take the 4 pin connector that goes to the Cyclone lights, and shift it one pin either way. the Cyclone lights go off AND the coaster light get bright. Also, if I jump the coaster lights (see picture), with the connector seated properly, the coaster lights go off and the Cyclone lights get bright.

Also here's a weird thing. I replaced the blown fuse with new ones from PBR. After I put it in the fuse holder and thought that it blew again, I tested the fuse with my MM. It tested bad, now for the weird thing....all of the fuses I got test bad. They all physically look good though. These fuses do appear to be different that what I'm used to. it looks like there is a resistor in the glass, not just a filament. Is there a different way to test those? I've never seen them before. If I put them in a working circuit, the circuity does not work, so the fuses are somehow open. (all 10 that I tried?)

IMG_2256 (resized).jpg

In the club! Playfield is nice but full Mylar. Anyone have experience pulling Mylar on this?

0F245602-140F-4014-950C-E8B472F361BE (resized).jpeg

Yes! This one is very touchy. I tried heat and freeze spray. The freeze spray method worked best. Cleaning the glue off can be difficult. Naptha worked best for this. Orange power was surprisingly to aggressive and removed ink.

If the mylar is still sticking good to the playfield. I'd suggest just buffing it out to a nice gloss and leaving it.

as a newbie here myself, welcome.

also...what do you use to polish existing mylar?

These beauties just arrived from Starship Fantasy!

43ACC1C3-D4DD-4294-9099-A6BF1CAD60E4 (resized).jpeg

2nd update.

(remind you , I know nothing about system 11 games)

When I measure voltage across the top two pins of the interconnect pins, it measures just over 6vac.

If I connect those leads to the associated cut wires on the light board side, nothing happens.

When I bypass the wire bundle and jump those leads directly to the + and - wires on either the cyclone or coaster circuits, they light brightly.

If I then remove the 4 pin molex that goes to the back of the cyclone board, but keep the striped wire connected to the board and then jump the solid wire from the interconnect board to the cyclone board, it lights. However, If I keep the solid wire connected, but jump the striped wire, it does not light. The difference from what I can tell is that the solid wire runs through the Gen Illum Relay.

During the solenoid test, your can hear the relay clicking, yet the lights don't flash.

Is it possible that the relay board is bad?

Here are pics of the board, Notice the burnt area. Is that normal?

Thanks again.

IMG_2257 (resized).jpg

IMG_2258 (resized).jpg

Make this the third update.

I cleaned the burnt area and reflowed the solder. Now all is well. Now on to other issues........

Thanks for all the help.

Those are Sweeeeeet

Novus 2 and a good carnauba wax, I like Mothers. I use a Wen 6" random orbital polisher.

TY

Cool, was hoping it wasn't something inside that relay. Seemed like it was getting narrowed down to that area. $20 if you can find them, but out of stock in a few places.

Nice! I have 2 of the 3 installed. Tempted to pick up the Ferris Wheel. My current one is in nice shape, just a bit of yellowing. Should probably grab it while it's available.

Makes two of us!

Mine had something like this before. I can't remember what it actually was that was stuck on, but it ended up being one of the chips on the display board. If you want to bring your display board over sometime and try it in mine to see if it's still happens you could at least determine if it's the display or the main board, it looks like you're not too far from me.

So I joined the club too, I bought a machine someone with little knowledge was trying to restore, they kinda fucked up the playfield by clear coating over dirt and damage, not to mention insert decals, not much I can do about that unfortunately but it doesn't seem to affect the ball rolling so I'll try clean it up as best I can.
there is a lot of snipped wires and a couple of things missing from playfield
I'm wondering if someone could tell me what is missing from here, guessing GI Relay board (C-11902-1), marco shows it but not in stock?
https://imgur.com/P6Hatm5

and what does the switch do here and am i missing something?
https://imgur.com/rI9bltM

missing_1 (resized).JPG
missing_2 (resized).JPG

I'm also looking for this panel, a repo will do, I'm aware of this one on ebay but the condition isn't very good

282469160488_1_0_1 (resized).jpg

If nobody replies before I get home I'll take a look.

Without the benefit of looking at my game, I can tell you that the switch is for the entrance gate of the Comet ramp. There is a link that goes thru that hole and up between the right side of the ramp and the spookhouse plastic and attaches to the gate wireform.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=617&picno=10785&zoom=1
There's the board you're missing, but I'm not sure what it is at the moment. It does look similar to the Marco board. That's all I can do for you right now.

This place seems to make them...

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/sy11rb2.html

Next problem......

Any reason why the 5X light flashes constantly?

That's okay. Get the boomerang 4 times and get and extra ball or free game, depending on settings. If you don't do that often it should drop to 4x, or go up to 6x if you do.

The missing board is the GI relay (solenoid 10). I assume the GI on your game isn't working?

Thanks, I picked up a second hand one

Cool, I’ll have a look at that mechanism and see if I’ve the parts to fix

Silly me!

and another thing!.......

It looks as though some areas of this game have never been cleaned/waxed. Specifically by the pop bumpers, the top roll overs and under the shuttle lane. (yes, under all of the ramps).

I'm hesitant to start removing ramps, but I guess that's the only way to get to those areas.

Any suggestions as to sequence, pitfalls to watch out for etc?

To properly shop a pin, and Cyclone is BY FAR one of the easiest pins on earth to shop, you need to to completely tear down the playfield.
This certainly includes removing the ramps! In fact, the ramps are the typically the first things you remove!

Take tons of pics from different angles before and after you remove parts, this way you're not back here in a week crying "where does this go?"... Replace all star posts, rubber, and pop bumper plastic assemblies as you reassemble the PF... Oh, And dont drop metal tools on the PF in the process.

I'm really confused as to why i'm even reading or typing some of this stuff to a guy who apparently owns 20 pins and has been on Pinside for over 5 years...

Picked myself up one of these that someone made an arse of restoring, they over tightened every single rusty screw until it snapped each starpost, snipped a load of wires, clear coated the playfield over dirt and raised insert decals.
I'm in the process of bringing it back to life, sanding down the clearcoat a bit too much for me, I'll leave that for another time, for now its, polish and wax the playfield, new plastics where possible(if anyones got any spare plastics they are willing to part with), all new star posts, polish the screws
Here's a few pics, it actually came with Hurricane slingshots which I think look really good

3 (resized).jpg
4 (resized).jpg
5 (resized).jpg

It makes you wonder

So, my Cyclone has one red and one white flipper button, also the credit button has been replaced with a red flipper button.

Are the original flipper buttons supposed to be white? Also, how about the credit button? I can find a replacement button, but should there be a bushing to hold it in place? If so, I can't seem to find those.

Flipper bats too, mine are yellow, shouldn't they be white as well?

Thanks