(Topic ID: 289488)

Cutting Pinball Plastics from clear PETG with Laser Engraver

By Mr_Tantrum

3 years ago


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    #1 3 years ago

    In brief, I make a few mods that involve custom plastics. I originally made them by hand, and less than a year ago I purchased a small CNC machine to make them. While much better, it still takes a lot of effort and there is a lot of cleanup each time I make a plastic.

    In searching, there are some new home DIY laser engravers/cutters, and I'm curious if anyone can tell me if they would work for my needs? I use .080" PETG sheets which I find are as close to OEM plastics as I can get. I've performed numerous Google searches, YouTube searches, searched through Pinside, contacted makers of the products, etc., but I just can't seem to get a definitive answer on this specific application with thin clear PETG sheets. Maybe I'm missing something obvious, but I'm not finding the information I seek.

    I've outsourced large jobs before, but 99% of the time I just need to make a single one-off plastic (I have a handful of different shapes) and my volume is quite low (probably less than 5 per month), so outsourcing really doesn't make sense for me since I don't want to inventory any pre-made plastics given demand is random and slow.

    Here is an example of the type of engraver/cutter I'm looking at (5.5W laser): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QCWGJRN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2

    Here is the material I wish to cut shapes from: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013GOMH0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

    Also, if anyone happens to already own a similar laser system (the same 5.5W laser is ideal) that would be willing to giving things a try, I'd be happy to send some material and shapes for testing purposes.

    #2 3 years ago

    Have you considered using polycarbonate (lexan)? It's never going to break in a pinball machine, so it's a superior material to PETG.

    #3 3 years ago
    Quoted from bluespin:

    Have you considered using polycarbonate (lexan)? It's never going to break in a pinball machine, so it's a superior material to PETG.

    Harder to laser cut since it releases toxic fumes when burned, and can't be easily machined either

    #4 3 years ago
    Quoted from bluespin:

    Have you considered using polycarbonate (lexan)? It's never going to break in a pinball machine, so it's a superior material to PETG.

    Quoted from zacaj:

    Harder to laser cut since it releases toxic fumes when burned

    I'm old school and cut my plastics by hand. Polycarbonate will not break. I'm told PETG will not break, but I thought pinball plastics were made of PETG; What ever the pinball makers used I have the broken plastics to prove that they do break.

    I like .060" poly for the plastics and plastic protectors I have made.

    Poly is more expensive than PETG. But I like it better. I'm not saying it is better but I have had good luck with polycarbonate for hand cutting and tooling.

    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    I'm old school and cut my plastics by hand. Polycarbonate will not break. I'm told PETG will not break, but I thought pinball plastics were made of PETG; What ever the pinball makers used I have the broken plastics to prove that they do break.
    I like .060" poly for the plastics and plastic protectors I have made.
    Poly is more expensive than PETG. But I like it better. I'm not saying it is better but I have had good luck with polycarbonate for hand cutting and tooling.

    I was under the impression petg was the newer, tougher material, and that old plastics used something else? Every time I see people selling protectors they're always bragging its petg.

    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    I'm old school and cut my plastics by hand. Polycarbonate will not break. I'm told PETG will not break, but I thought pinball plastics were made of PETG; What ever the pinball makers used I have the broken plastics to prove that they do break.
    I like .060" poly for the plastics and plastic protectors I have made.
    Poly is more expensive than PETG. But I like it better. I'm not saying it is better but I have had good luck with polycarbonate for hand cutting and tooling.

    How do you cut it? I’ve used Lexan (Polycarbonate brand) at work and that shit is the bomb! But we usually only perform straight cuts. I have several sheets I’d love to use for custom plastic protectors.

    Lexan is so flexible you can fold it almost like a sandwich and it won’t break. It’s incredible stuff.

    #7 3 years ago

    I've used Lexan in the past but switched to PETG when I learned that's what pinball plastics are made from. The PETG is softer in the same thickness and much easier to work with IMO (plus it is a little less expensive). Both seem durable enough to me. I think in the few years I've been making plastic replacements and accompaniments to my mods, I've only had one of the dozens I've made break (which I replaced at no cost to the customer).

    Again, I previously made plastics by hand with pneumatic cutting disks, etc., I then switched to a CNC machine for better accuracy/consistency since I deal with mainly curved shapes, but now I'd really like something that was less of a mess and overall easier to do consistently (the CNC shavings produced are crazy, and I still have to sand and flame treat edges) - i.e. why I'm asking about laser engravers/cutters.

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Harder to laser cut since it releases toxic fumes when burned, and can't be easily machined either

    I didn’t know that. Thanks.

    #9 3 years ago

    I looked into this at one point, and like you, struggled to find anyone that was using a small laser for our application. One thing that I did see is that it is difficult to cut clear plastic with a laser... energy wants to just pass through. Cutting opaque sheets is no issue. I hope you find a solution, because I also would like to do laser cutting. I'm sure it can be done (CPR cuts theirs with a laser), but how large of a laser is needed to cut clear PETG?

    #10 3 years ago
    Quoted from Sheprd:

    I looked into this at one point, and like you, struggled to find anyone that was using a small laser for our application. One thing that I did see is that it is difficult to cut clear plastic with a laser... energy wants to just pass through. Cutting opaque sheets is no issue. I hope you find a solution, because I also would like to do laser cutting. I'm sure it can be done (CPR cuts theirs with a laser), but how large of a laser is needed to cut clear PETG?

    Just an off thought. I am in the sign business, but we don't cut with a laser. However, if you applied dark matt finish vinyl to the top of the plastic. Would the laser then heat up enough at that point to cut through the clear? Seems it could go either way, yes and great. Or no, just cut the vinyl and pass right through the clear.

    #11 3 years ago

    CO2 Laser has no problem cutting clear acrylic. It doesn't like Polycarbonate. It has no problem cutting PETG.

    My laser is a cheap Chinese Red sail model. The 80 watt laser can cut 1/4" acrylic, slowly, but it can.

    #12 3 years ago

    The diode lasers won't cut clear material, just opaque or some translucent ones. They can etch it with a coating. To cut clear you need a co2 laser which produces a much higher wavelength.

    This was the best description I found, https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/laser-engrave-cutting-for-clear-acrylic/7000/5
    "The 450nm laser won’t work on clear acrylic (PMMA), because PMMA doesn’t absorb above 400nm
    (see absorption spectrum for PMMA 32) PC, PET and PVC won’t work for the same reason. A good trick is to look up the UV transmission/absorption diagrams of the material and choose it accordingly. After a quick search I found some transmission diagrams. (bad quality but readable)"

    #13 3 years ago
    Quoted from BobLangelius:

    CO2 Laser has no problem cutting clear acrylic. It doesn't like Polycarbonate. It has no problem cutting PETG.
    My laser is a cheap Chinese Red sail model. The 80 watt laser can cut 1/4" acrylic, slowly, but it can.

    Does it have any issues with rounded edges when it's going that slow? Any difference in speed for petg?

    #14 3 years ago

    When you say rounded edges, you mean the edge quality? not cutting circular shapes? correct?

    The edge quality can be rougher when you go really slow. It seems to have more time to heat the material and creates an edge that is wavy almost like a flame cut edge. A higher watt laser will cut quicker and make a nicer edge. No substitute for power.

    Circular cuts can sometimes seem faceted, but that is more of a software problem. (curves being approximated by small straight segments)

    PETG runs a little slower than acrylic for me....

    #15 3 years ago
    Quoted from BobLangelius:

    When you say rounded edges, you mean the edge quality? not cutting circular shapes? correct?
    The edge quality can be rougher when you go really slow. It seems to have more time to heat the material and creates an edge that is wavy almost like a flame cut edge. A higher watt laser will cut quicker and make a nicer edge. No substitute for power.
    Circular cuts can sometimes seem faceted, but that is more of a software problem. (curves being approximated by small straight segments)
    PETG runs a little slower than acrylic for me....

    Yeah, the edge itself, not the shape of the cut. I've read that cutting slower can make the 'corner' of the edge round as it melts, instead of a quick cut (or using a cnc) where the edge would be completely flat

    #16 3 years ago
    Quoted from latenite04:

    The diode lasers won't cut clear material, just opaque or some translucent ones. They can etch it with a coating. To cut clear you need a co2 laser which produces a much higher wavelength.
    This was the best description I found, https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/laser-engrave-cutting-for-clear-acrylic/7000/5
    "The 450nm laser won’t work on clear acrylic (PMMA), because PMMA doesn’t absorb above 400nm
    (see absorption spectrum for PMMA 32) PC, PET and PVC won’t work for the same reason. A good trick is to look up the UV transmission/absorption diagrams of the material and choose it accordingly. After a quick search I found some transmission diagrams. (bad quality but readable)"

    Okay, I'm not quite following the logic. Here is how I'm interpreting the information thus far: The laser in the machine I'm looking at is 445nm and the CO2 laser is 10,600nm wavelength. It's hard to find any definitive answer, but it looks like PET (not G) at around just under 400nm goes to 100% transmittal. Does this mean that any wavelength above 400nm will pass through and cut the the material? The higher the wavelength the easier the laser with pass through?

    If this is correct thinking, given that 445nm is only fractionally higher than 400nm (assuming PETG has the same qualities as PET - which it probably doesn't), that it might theoretically cut PETG but it would be so slow in doing so it would deform/burn the material?

    #17 3 years ago

    Have you considered trying a Maker Space? Many will have real industrial strength laser cutters available after a brief training session. The last I heard the Dallas Maker Space also had a pretty active group of pinball and arcade enthusiasts called VECTOR. It might be worth a look.

    /Mark

    #19 3 years ago

    I'll have to check that the Makerspace, but probably not very convenient for me as I'm on the West side of Fort Worth (it's about a 45 minute drive w/o traffic from my house). Maybe there's something similar on my side of the Metroplex.

    #20 3 years ago

    PETG can be cut with a CO2 laser fairly easily, has great Impact resistance and clarity. Leaves a nice edge on cutting, not as nice as Acrylic. A little trickier to machine at thinner gauges but still forgiving, better Impact resistance than Acrylic, not as good vs polycarbonate, but still a good choice in a pinball machine as it can be easily printed.

    Polycarbonate - NEVER use a laser! can be easily machined using CNC, drills, routers etc

    Acrylic - Easily cut with a laser, leaves a polished edge. Harder material than the above 2 which makes it slightly more scratch resistant, tradeoff is it's harder to drill/cut without breaking

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from MarkG:

    Have you considered trying a Maker Space? Many will have real industrial strength laser cutters available after a brief training session. The last I heard the Dallas Maker Space also had a pretty active group of pinball and arcade enthusiasts called VECTOR. It might be worth a look.
    /Mark

    Looks like there are a couple with lasers, but the nearest ones are 45 minutes from me from what I can tell. Also, there are monthly membership fees which I'm not interested in as I wouldn't take advantage of the space very often, and when I did it would be just for quick little things. Good idea though, thanks for the suggestions.

    #22 3 years ago

    Well, I think I'm coming to the realization that I'll just have to keep using my home CNC machine for now. Disappointing, but seems to be the best/most cost-effective option for small volume DIY.

    What got me going on this, however, was a 3D printing video I watched (I can't find it again) and they quickly showed laser cutting thin clear acrylic sheets with brown film on it using what appeared to be a Glowforge or something similar (it was just a close-up shot inside the bed). This is what got me thinking that a DIY laser might very well cut thin sheets of PETG.

    Update: Just did some YouTubing and the Glowforge will definitely cut clear acrylic (even thicker than the PETG I use) as long as it has masking on it. However, I researched a little more and the Glowforge uses a CO2 laser at 10,600 nm rated at either 40W or 45W depending on the model. Unfortunately, it's $3K to get into the base model.

    #23 3 years ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    How do you cut it? I’ve used Lexan (Polycarbonate brand) at work and that shit is the bomb! But we usually only perform straight cuts. I have several sheets I’d love to use for custom plastic protectors.
    Lexan is so flexible you can fold it almost like a sandwich and it won’t break. It’s incredible stuff.

    Hand power. With some help from some power tools.

    IMG_5859 (resized).JPGIMG_5859 (resized).JPG

    IMG_5860 (resized).JPGIMG_5860 (resized).JPG

    I made this yesterday for a Robocop. It took 30 minutes.

    IMG_5861 (resized).JPGIMG_5861 (resized).JPG

    I also bought a HF 18 inch brake on sale, because poly can be bent into all sorts of angles without breaking. Now I make my own cabinet leg protectors.

    Screen Shot 2021-03-09 at 10.19.37 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-03-09 at 10.19.37 AM (resized).png

    #24 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Looks like there are a couple with lasers, but the nearest ones are 45 minutes from me from what I can tell. Also, there are monthly membership fees which I'm not interested in as I wouldn't take advantage of the space very often, and when I did it would be just for quick little things. Good idea though, thanks for the suggestions.

    Fair enough. Keep looking though. We're lucky to have a free maker space at the Boulder Public Library that offers access to their laser cutters and other goodies. DFW is a big place. Maybe there's something similar there. Or maybe there's an online laser cutting service similar to shapeways.com.

    #25 3 years ago
    Quoted from MarkG:

    Fair enough. Keep looking though. We're lucky to have a free maker space at the Boulder Public Library that offers access to their laser cutters and other goodies. DFW is a big place. Maybe there's something similar there. Or maybe there's an online laser cutting service similar to shapeways.com.

    I'll have to do a more detailed search when I have some time. I did lookup a couple of libraries, but they don't list what equipment they have.

    #26 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Yeah, the edge itself, not the shape of the cut. I've read that cutting slower can make the 'corner' of the edge round as it melts, instead of a quick cut (or using a cnc) where the edge would be completely flat

    I have not found a rounding effect. Depends on thickness too... If I need a round edge on 1/4" acrylic i will run it first in the laser then trim the edge on the Router with a round over bit. Both sides. One of the best things the laser can do is make guides for the router.

    #27 3 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    Hand power. With some help from some power tools.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]
    I made this yesterday for a Robocop. It took 30 minutes.
    [quoted image]
    I also bought a HF 18 inch brake on sale, because poly can be bent into all sorts of angles without breaking. Now I make my own cabinet leg protectors.
    [quoted image]

    What size blade u running on your bandsaw?
    Cutting lexan? Thx .

    #28 3 years ago

    try this site in the USA for cutting parts
    https://sendcutsend.com/

    #29 3 years ago
    Quoted from lowbeau67:

    What size blade u running on your bandsaw?
    Cutting lexan? Thx .

    It is a 1/4" blade with wide spaced teeth for cutting wood; It cuts the poly in fine form. After buying one blade from Lowes that was trash and another blade from Home Depot that was trash, I located a sort of local tool shop that sells all sorts of wood working and sheet metal tools. I bought a blade from them and it is cutting famously.

    The 1/4" blade will not let me cut very tight corners so I have to work my way around the corners slowly. A 1/8" blade would be better for the corners but you can't have everything.

    #30 3 years ago

    Looks like an inexpensive K4 CO2 laser cutter is what would do the trick, and those can be had for under $400 before add-ons. The only issue with these is the size. I don't have a shop as my garage is actually used for parking cars, of all things. I just don't have room to permanently setup a machine which is why I was hopeful for the smaller units that I could store away when not in use.

    I appreciate everyone's ideas an input to my original post, and hopefully this thread will be useful to those that follow until there is a better solution.

    #31 3 years ago

    I wanted to put a little closure on my situation regarding the reason I started this thread. At this point, while I really want to buy a K4 laser, I just don't have the room for it. I've scoured the web and made several calls to local maker spaces, and either they don't have a laser, are at least 30-45 minutes away, and/or they require a membership with monthly dues.

    Fortunately, I received a referral to a small pinball business in Houston, TX called UpKick Pinball (http://upkickpinball.com), and I contacted the owner. While I'll let him tell you his story, he is a really nice guy with a passion for pinball who just happens to have a CO2 laser. His pricing for clear plastics is very fair/affordable, and within a day of me supplying him the files he had already shipped my order, then a couple of days later they arrived and are perfect - proper size shape, clean cuts, and finished edges.

    Therefore, if you are in a similar boat as I am where you need clear plastics cut in small quantities, UpKick is a great alternative to acquiring the tools and knowledge to do it yourself.

    #32 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Well, I think I'm coming to the realization that I'll just have to keep using my home CNC machine for now. Disappointing, but seems to be the best/most cost-effective option for small volume DIY...

    Sorry, don't want to sidetrack the discussion away from the laser topic - but what do you use for the CNC at home? Is it by chance the CNC-3018?

    #33 3 years ago

    Yes, it is a 3018, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDG7R2J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

    For what it is, it works well. The main issues I have with it with cutting PETG/Acrlic is the mess it makes. I still have to then sand the edges and flame polish them. Also, it takes multiple passes (3 to cut .080" PETG), and I've had occasions where I didn't have everything secured well enough, so I ended up destroying the material and having to start over. Probably the biggest pain when it comes to cutting plastics is that you must use some form of adhesive to secure the plastic to the sacrificial board which in turn is secured to the bed. Not only does it add time and cost to the project, but after cutting the adhesive is difficult to remove from the plastic, then I have to clean the parts with an adhesive removal agent, and finally wash with soap and water.

    With a CO2 laser you cut it in one pass, and in many occasions the edges are already finished from the laser cut itself. There are now plastic shavings to deal with, and you don't have to secure the material with adhesive which makes the process much cleaner, easier, and quicker.

    #34 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Probably the biggest pain when it comes to cutting plastics is that you must use some form of adhesive to secure the plastic to the sacrificial board wh

    Might try 3m 410 adhesive tape. Use it all the time with the table saw. Easy enough to remove...

    #35 3 years ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Yes, it is a 3018, this one specifically: amazon.com link »
    For what it is, it works well. The main issues I have with it with cutting PETG/Acrlic is the mess it makes. I still have to then sand the edges and flame polish them. Also, it takes multiple passes (3 to cut .080" PETG), and I've had occasions where I didn't have everything secured well enough, so I ended up destroying the material and having to start over. Probably the biggest pain when it comes to cutting plastics is that you must use some form of adhesive to secure the plastic to the sacrificial board which in turn is secured to the bed. Not only does it add time and cost to the project, but after cutting the adhesive is difficult to remove from the plastic, then I have to clean the parts with an adhesive removal agent, and finally wash with soap and water.
    With a CO2 laser you cut it in one pass, and in many occasions the edges are already finished from the laser cut itself. There are now plastic shavings to deal with, and you don't have to secure the material with adhesive which makes the process much cleaner, easier, and quicker.

    Thanks Tant. I've been eyeballing the 3018 for awhile, given it's low cost. Just something to fool around with. Would be interesting to route some PCB's with it too.

    #36 3 years ago
    Quoted from BobLangelius:

    Might try 3m 410 adhesive tape. Use it all the time with the table saw. Easy enough to remove...

    Actually need sheets as full contact is required. I've used carpet tape which is sticky as crazy, but it tends to gum up the bits. I then switched to another adhesive sheet I use for decals and while it sticks great, it is so thin it is hard to remove off the plastics (not impossible, just takes time).

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XZ5VUQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

    1 year later
    #37 1 year ago

    Where are you all buying sheets of clear PETG for laser cutting? Have an omtech K40 coming and want to do roughly 2mm (0.08") thick PETG. 0.06" would probably work as well?

    Ideally would have it pre-cut in 8x12 sheets (size of bed)...But perhaps that's impractical? I was looking at Amazon, and it's really hard to tell if I actually would be getting PETG and don't want to risk poisoning the household.

    I found a site (https://www.curbellplastics.com) that will cut a 0.08" thick 4'x8' panel into 48 8"x12" sheets for $124 before shipping, which works out to about $2.58 a sheet, but I would feel confident that it's PETG.

    Screenshot 2023-03-03 at 8.39.00 PM (resized).pngScreenshot 2023-03-03 at 8.39.00 PM (resized).png

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