Depends on many factors...HUO, condition, routed, etc...I wouldn't put to much value on mods with this game...aside from condition the biggest factor in my mind is the light board version....I would say a nice machine with the 7.5V buffered light boards, HUO, WOZ RR would sell in the $7200-$7800 range. If you have the 2.0 light system thats used in newer games then I am sure it would be in the $8-8500 + for a nice used one...

It’s a tricky resale as they still make them NIB. Great game and worth every penny in my opinion.

Agreed on both points. Still.... 8500 on a game you can get NIB for 9250 is pretty tough sell.

I'm not interested in selling but I if I did I would probably be at 8k. I've owned for 3 years upgraded shooter to ruby red and have Steve's red smoke witch mod which really makes it nice. I have 75 th ruby red.
Great game and I love the theme. Ill never come close to beating it

There are not a lot of high end pins moving at all right now.

Based on an actual recent sale, perfect HUO ECLE, about 7k.

Might be do to all of the great new pins that have been coming out. Along with some potential great ones, getting ready to start being made.

At $7,000 WOZ is a great deal considering it’s a great pin with exceptional quality.

Depends if your buying, selling or stirring.

I don't see a 2-3 year old WOZ (RR or LE) selling for more than $7500 +/- a few hundred depending on condition and mods...

Sold my ECLEWOZ some weeks ago with some modding for 8700 Euro
Without the mods around 8100 Euro , think that was fair
TH LE sold a year ago for 7500;Euro that did hurt

Agreed. I think there is a market adjustment coming on previously high end pins. With so many options it will be hard to sell your "used" pin at near a new model cost. At least as compared as to the past few years. The more they sit, the more this will be true I think.

I think the listings need to drop by another $500 or more to see movement. Just too many options and vaults being produced.

Totally different market...

Summer is traditionally dead for the pinball market place. Wait till winter, it'll pick up.

Contrary to what a recent poster said, I think that the fact that new Stern LEs are selling for upper $8k is only going to be an uplifting factor on resale value of pins that are equal or better in terms of features.

LEs, maybe, but when a new pro is $5.5k and an older title 7k, well, I guess we'll see. No one knows the future, right?

This is pretty good range imo... many people will pay more for a low play rrwoz with the 2.0 lightning and all the fixes from earlier runs. Alot of 7500 +pins are not selling real quick now with it being summer and all the new expensive pins coming out. Woz is still one the best, most beautiful loaded and coaded pins ever imo.

Indeed.

A few months ago a local huo ecle sold for 6200 to get it sold. My guess for similar is 6500 - 7200 if able to sit and wait for the right buyer

I have a beautiful WOZECLE with butter cab and 7.5v light boards with nary an issue since day one. Oct 28,2013 build date

I paid $6500 and will never sell it.

If i were looking for one today I would take advantage of getting one cheaper on the perception of 2.0 really making any difference versus the 7.5v.

All high priced pins are gonna take a hit on the secondary market if you are going to sell, its just a matter of how much.

I agree with buyers taking advantage of the older light board pricing although the 2.0 system in my Hobbit and DI are rock solid so theres no arguing the value. I purchased my WOZ RR with 7.5V buffered boards, 10/15 build date, HUO, bone stock for $7100...its probably worth what I paid or a little less...I tried recently to purchase another one (WOZECLE) for the other house...offered the guy $7300....he wanted $8K (was asking $9K)....of course its still sitting there unsold...its a great game, but unfortunately NIB JJP machines don't hold their value very well. Id be lucky to get $8K for my new DILE ...

Value is subjective so yes, there is an ability to argue it. People wanting machines that are several years old to be worth within a stones throw of a nib game are smoking crack. I don't care if it has mods and many share my sentiments. NIB with a warranty or buy an older machine that even if its low plays has older electronics and chances for the clear coat to have cracked around the inserts due to changes in humidity. this notion that all games are going to be worth what you paid down the road only works for low production and if it sells well stern/jjp will always make another le so the days of tron le are over.

I think the LE bandwagon is starting to see it's limitations. A lot of avid LE buyers around here, stopped buying the LE's, as they are no longer feeling the LE's are worth the extra money. Could be trickling down the used market as well.

A pin that's been around for a while and is STILL in production? It's just isn't going to demand as much as a seller thinks it's worth.

I can argue that any JJP is not an LE either. CE is the only truly limited machine in JJP world.

The RR NIB is $9500 and Standard NIB is $8500. How much of a discount or loss is expected for second hand HUO? $7000 seems low and is a super bargain for what you're getting if that's the case. Sure, there's some anomalies out there pricing wise, but a few hundred more seems closer to the truth.... especially if you're comparing these to a similarly priced Stern Premium.

I tend to agree, but at least on JJP machines u get some value with the LE machines i.e. invisiglass, exterior volume/head jack (which I love), powder coating, manual, and shaker.....

Except 7k buys you a machine that is several years old. It has no warranty. It is not perfect, its not a nib experience and chances. Cargument is that I can buy a 2016 Colorado or a 2019. Even if the 16 only has 5k miles on it, it won't cost near what the 19 does despite being exactly the same. So no, not going to take a few hundred off and call it a day. For a few hundred more I'd rather get to open the box myself and know I have a warranty.

I never said $7K. That's a good value for sure. I don't like WOZ at all (theme), but can recognize that's value.

Still, the higher the pin's price, the tougher they are to move. UNLESS they're limited/in demand. Lots of new stuff coming out. Lots of people have had WOZ for years in their house. You can still buy NIB. All that factors in.

Realistically, a warranty holds little value. Stern and JJP have both supported games regardless of warranty status, and places like Pinside are great for solving technical issues. I could only see this really being an issue for first time buyers with little knowledge on the hobby. Most issues are likely to occur right out of the box, anyway.

I still think WoZ is a $7k+ game. I recently sold a ECLE for more, and it seems like the RR's go even higher than the ECLEs.

I would agree that a WOZ with the 7.5V boards, HUO is worth $7K + in todays market assuming its in great shape...since JJP is still making the game, and will probably continue to do so the value of the older games will probably continue to fall off some. Keep in mind JJP's prices have gone up significantly since they first released WOZ so many of these NIB buyers have a significantly lower purchase price.

I'm honestly shocked that JJP is still able to sell standards at 8500. Would think they'd want to be in the 6500 territory to compete with other manufacturers since the code is complete.

Unless I'm wrong Stern Premiums are all over $7K even at street pricing, expecting NIB WOZ (which still has way more going on than any Stern Premium) to be priced less than that seems a little crazy.

your not wrong....the question is value on a used WOZ...unfortunately JJP NIB games don't hold value...its just reality. I have a DI LE purchased for $9K, and Id be lucky to $8K for the game and its brand new.

For a game that first came out at $6500 and contains many more bells and whistles than today's game (like printed cab), is many years old, and is no longer being developed.... yeah I expect much less than $8500. The game keeps increasing in price...

I recently picked up a late model ECLE with 7.5 buffered boards with 24 plays and paid 7500.00

I picked up a stock late model ECLE with 22 plays (take that Soulrider!) and 7.5 buffered boards yesterday for $7400 and another $200 to deliver. Worth every penny!

Do u guys really believe they only had 22/24 plays?

I hear you, but in my case yes.

Guy had a large collection and never got into it. Check the timestamp on the last time played prior to testing

Screen Shot 2018-08-27 at 2.10.13 PM (resized).png

my feeling is that its the old "take with a grain of salt" kind of issue. In your case it might be true?

Also, I don't care if it has 1000 plays if it's in great shape. But you're right, in this case the game was purchased in late 2014 NIB, and I'm sure some plays were erased when they did a full upgrade to 6.06. As long as it's imamaculate right?>

Nah, I roll my eyes every time somebody lists a Stern with "only 200 plays", you're totally right. Play count is generally meaningless as it gets cleared with every update.

PtownPin I can post a screen shot as well, soon as i got it I went into audits sure enough.. 24. But when software is upgraded I think it resets? so realistically i estimate less than 100. So Yes mine was true as well

u boys found nice games....great work...I'm looking to add another one to my collection at some point...in my experience when u update the software the game audits reset...that being said it doesn't really matter if the game has 20 plays or 500 plays....its all about condition...

JJP is a bit different with its audits. On Delta upgrades it does not reset. My Hobbit has never reset. But I traded for a RR WOZ and had to do a full install to upgrade to current (previous owner never updated past its factory date) and the audits cleared. So depends. Versus Stern that clears audits with every update.

The screen on a 4 year old machine craps out, jjp won't cover it. Boards die? Nope not gonna be covered. Things happen and you are right often times right out of the box, but to sit there and say the warranty has no value is gambling. Sure, nothing might happen, but if it does it might be a very spendy fix to get the game back in order.

Anything except the 2.0 light boards, add $800-$1000 because ALL the 1.0 light systems (buffered, unbuffered, 5v, 7.5v, doesn't matter) will fail at some point and need to be replaced. The upgrade isn't hard, it just takes about 12 hours the first time (instructions aren't super-clear in spots due to so many revs of the machine). Once you've done it once it could probably be done in 8 hours or less.

By March we are going to have 3 or 4 new titles from Deep Root, another announced game from JJP and a couple of games from Stern. We also may have another new game from Spooky. I'm of the opinion that the market for very expensive pinball machines is reaching saturation. Will whatever happens at the Texas Pinball Festival pop the bubble?

sounds like a total pain in the ass...12 hours? ouch thanks for the information though...

I actually popped a buffered 7.5 board during transit and have half my lights out. I was under the assumption that the 2.0 boards can go as well, but the design avoids having to jumper to another board and turn the bad board off in software preferences. Are there additional reliability enhancements to the 2.0 ones that minimize the chances of them blowing? I'm strongly considering requesting an upgrade kit if so, as the idea of swapping and troubleshooting boards is not exactly appealing to me

It's not hard, just time-consuming, and the first time there's some ambiguity about what needs to be pulled through the harness and what doesn't. There's also some bracket parts missing from the kit you need to source yourself at about the midpoint. And some of the leads to the new LED boards are *just barely long enough* so if you don't orient them "right" you need to do it again when it comes time to plug the chain into the power board.

Like I said, with the experience of doing it once, you can cut the time almost in half, but I really don't want to ever do it again.

Totally worth doing it once though to have a reliable lighting system where all the lights work and there's no flickering when everything's white.