(Topic ID: 80300)

Curbfeeler's Pinbot -- Restore Complete!

By Curbfeeler

10 years ago


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#1 10 years ago

Hi Folks. I've decided to post what I'm doing, because...well...frankly, I love a good restoration thread. Hopefully others will like this as well. I haven't been posting or doing much pinball-related, because our family moved in the fall. I'm about 80% done getting things like I want them in the new house, so thankfully it's time to dabble a bit into pinball again.

What we have is a pinbot w/ topper I picked up locally for $1000. You will see from the pics that this is probably too much money for it, but I tend to just keep my pinballs and love them forever. So a couple hundred bucks here and there is worth it versus having to spend a weekend on the road traveling out of state. When this one came up 5 miles away on Craigslist, I had to pull the trigger.

I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing with this one, so I'll post as I go. Here are my "before" pics...
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Post edited by Curbfeeler : Changed to title since it sounded like I was already done

#2 10 years ago

Here are some pics I took during the actual teardown. In addition to taking pics, I also put everything on a foam board the same size as the playfield and try to put them in the same relative position.

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I've got the mylar pulled and quite a bit of the initial cleanup completed. I will post some more pics of the cleaned up playfield soon.

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#6 10 years ago

Okay, so I had a chance to take some more pics and to do some more work.

First of all let me say that I am not an expert playfield restoration guy. Far from it. I will take the opportunity to go through my methods, but I'm not doing anything groundbreaking. Everything I do is either a method I learned from Clay's pinrepair site (my first source for resto tutorials) or something I picked up off here more recently.

Like I mentioned before, I pull the parts off the playfield and for the most part put them in the same spot on a piece of foam board. Pictured below are all the parts I pulled off pinbot. The visor area I actually moved and put at the apron just due to lack of space. I know braver guys put things in bags, etc. and I do this with pop bumpers and more common assemblies, but I don't like to run the risk I won't know how something went together later. That's just me.

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#8 10 years ago

This was my very first mylar removal, and I'm happy to say I lost ZERO artwork! I used Radio Shack's brand of compressed air held upside down and went slow. Worked like a charm. Took two cans. Then to remove the glue I used cotton rags, paper towels, 91%, denatured, Goo Gone Gel, flour, etc. I am trying to decide what I think gives the best results, but honestly I'm not really sure. Seemed to be all about the same. Pinbot's mylar didn't have nearly the amount of gooey glue as the tutorials I've seen.

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What you see pictured is the playfield on my bench after 91% and denatured (I was trying both but didn't see a major difference) using a cotton terry cloth rag. I have NOT used a magic eraser yet.

#9 10 years ago

This post shows lost wood that I will need to replace with wood epoxy. I have never done this before but have seen many encouraging posts that give me confidence.

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#10 10 years ago

Okay last post of the night. This one shows the paint loss that I'm dealing with. Where there was mylar, the thing looks wonderful.

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I got an airbrush for Christmas, so this will be my first attempt at using it. In the past I've painted all by hand.

#11 10 years ago

Okay, a little progress to share tonight.

First, I went over the playfield with 91% and a well-soaked magic eraser. This is something you really have to practice and get good at (this is my 4th or 5th). It seems to me my pinbot is either varnish or lacquer. It's not hard like the automotive clear coats on newer playfields and today's reproduction. Whatever this coating is, it yellowed over time. I had to try to get as much of this yellowing off without getting through to the artwork and removing paint. It's not easy, because where there was mylar there was no yellow at all. There's no science to this; you really just have to work slowly and try to get a sense for how far into the coat you are. As the saying goes, the opposite of good is better.

I don't have a problem hand painting or airbrushing paint, but I'm the most careful around artwork that's difficult to reproduce. Luckily most of this was under the mylar and is in great shape.

Once I was done with the magic eraser and cleaned up the white film with 91% and Naptha, I decided it was time to do some Bondo. I have exactly ZERO experience with Bondo, so might as well dive right in. Here are some before and after pics of the areas I've decided to bondo.

BEFORE (Prepped):
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AFTER (First coat down):
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What I do know (or presume to know) about Bondo is that you don't want to try to make the first coat too perfect. Well, no chance of that!!!!

Tomorrow I'll start sanding and see how I did.

#12 10 years ago

Woah, that stuff dries faster than I expected!

Okay, on the rollover I went a little crazy and got some in the switch hole. Here's a pic of it from the back side.

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Glad I checked it before it got too rock hard. I went ahead and found the closest drill bit in my set and drilled it out from the back side (see pic).

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Then I used a razor blade and worked my way to the hole.

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Next time I'll use less product....

My post holes actually look pretty good, though. A little sanding and I think they will be great.

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#13 10 years ago

Ok, last pics before bed. I went ahead and block sanded and feathered here and there with some sandpaper on my fingertip.

It's not perfect, but I'm pleased with my first Bondo adventure, and I think I'm going to go ahead and just call it good. Neither of these areas are really visible in the game, and they will paint up and clear fine.

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#15 10 years ago

Okay, happy weekend everybody. I've always been a "paint by hand" kind of guy, using various masking techniques or whatever. Then a few months ago I read the playfield restoration topic by Vid1900 where he introduces airbrushes. In a million years I hadn't considered using an airbrush, but he was convincing. My wife was asking me what I wanted for Christmas, so there you go. Now I have an airbrush. I've turned a few paper towels into works of art, and now I'm ready to do some damage on my pinbot.

I decided to paint two areas covered by plastics. Can't do much damage there!!!!

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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Okay, that was crazy awesome! I have to do one more. I could get hooked on this!!!
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AFTER
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#16 10 years ago

Okay, I had what I'm going to call a productive weekend getting to know my airbrush. I'm really enjoying it, and I'm getting better with each use.

I got all the white down, then did red and then the dark gray. Here are pics.

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My only complaint at this point is I'm still using too much pressure when I cut my frisket, and I'm bringing up chips of paint on each side of the knife. I'll get the knack, though. Much better results than my hand-painting days.

#17 10 years ago

Hello again. Tonight I decided to try restoring the lost wood. I've seen tutorials that make this look easy. Here is hole one. We shall see...

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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I used a little too much material and scraped it away with a razor blade and exacto knife as it was setting up. I've done a fair amount of wood carving, and the epoxy shaped eerily like a soft wood.

#18 10 years ago

Here's hole #2. I used much less material this time, but I had less to fill. I actually ended up still removing some with an exacto blade.

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#19 10 years ago

And here is the third and final hole. This AFTER pic with without any sanding at all. I feel like I'm getting better at it now.

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AFTER
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#22 10 years ago
Quoted from bleargh:

Did you drill those extra holes in it just before putting the epoxy in, so it had more to "bite" onto, and provide more grip?

Yes, top of page 2.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lets-work-through-this-pile-of-playfields-i-need-to-restore-in-one-thread/page/2

2 weeks later
#23 10 years ago

Hi guys. Thought I'd try to throw a few progress pics out there. Not done by any means, but it's getting better at each turn.

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#25 10 years ago

Here are a couple before/during-ish kinds of shots for comparison.

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#26 10 years ago

Okay, so I'm certainly not an expert at this, but thought I'd pass along a few color matching techniques I've picked up that work for me. In college I took a 2D design course where color mixing was a major part of the course. If you've never mixed a color wheel by eye, I don't recommend it. At all... One crazy project we had was we all picked commercial packaging (cereal boxes, bags of chips, etc.) and had to paint them on poster board. The catch was we had to paint the colors in their complementary equiv. Reds had to be greens, etc. Also, the instructor graded your project through a black and white camcorder. Your product's green had to be the perfect shade of red such that in the lens of the camcorder you could not tell the difference between the bag of vanity Doritos you'd picked and your reproduction. Anyway, compared to all that, touching up a pinball playfield isn't so bad.

Here is my method for matching a color. I like it, because I'm cheap, and this method wastes the least amount of paint. One other reason I like this method is because I can make more paint pretty easily days or months or years later if need be.

First I start with my handy-dandy spreadsheet (attached). I print a copy for each color I'm going to try to match, because I normally paint right on my copy.

There's nothing special about this spreadsheet, really. It's just a list of ratios sorted by %, with duplicates removed. Here is how I use this tool. First I take a wild stab at what I think the color is. In the case of pinbot red, I was guessing a single drop of red and a single drop of orange would probably nail it. On my spreadsheet that's 1 or 50% x and 50% y. In my case this was actually close enough on the first attempt that I quit right there and painted my playfield.

Pinbot's blue was actually pretty tough to figure out. I started with 1 but knew going in that was unlikely to give me a good result. I was correct. It was way too dark. Regardless, I painted that color next to 50% on my sheet. Next I tried 4, white to blue. Since I already had 1 on my palette I just mixed in 3 more drops of white and stirred. So now in just 5 drops of paint I'm already very close. I have too dark and too light. My golden ratio is somewhere in between. I ended up settling on 3:2, white to blue or 40% blue. The result is really nice.

My dark gray ended up being the most difficult color to match. In the end I used 7:5, white, black, and yellow. I don't love the idea of putting in yellow, since I'm guessing the yellow I'm seeing on the original is due to aging of the varnish or lacquer. Still, I got a perfect match out of it, so no use in complaining.

Pinbot was pretty easy, but what about those color matches that are a real pain in the neck? One trick I have used on several occasions is to break out my flatbed scanner and scan the playfield and the failed attempts directly. By using an eyedropper I can usually see what I'm missing pretty quickly. In the case of pinbot, I used the scanner when I was trying to match the light blue, but the scanner just ended up confirming for me that there wasn't a color I was missing. It can give a good piece of mind.

A couple other things worth noting. Since Vid1900 turned me on to better paints, color matching is easier. Much easier. Using those $1 craft paints, I was routinely scanning, then mixing, scanning then mixing, and the paints would normally dry out before I was even done mixing. Also, sheen has a lot to do with how a color is perceived. Don't expect to airbrush a whole section then to realize you've missed a spot and hope you can dab down some paint on a brush and have it "blend" with the sprayed area. It just won't.

Hopefully this info helps someone.

Dan

[attachment=1506660,]
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16294011/color_mixing.zip

Post edited by Curbfeeler: link to spreadsheet

1 week later
#27 10 years ago

Okay, need some help. Got almost all my painting done, both airbrush and hand painting. Thus ends my comfort level and thus begins a journey...

I've always cleared my touchups using Varathane. I'm pretty good at it, and I get a nice result. I use a full respirator anyway, BTW. I'm very cautious about nasty chemicals in my lungs and body. For this project I'd really like to step up my game, though. I'd like to put down a harder, clearer product. I am leaning towards using SprayMax2K for this pinbot. Why? Mostly because what I have seen posted looks very promsing. And I like the idea of not having to clean and maintain equipment.

So, I'm at the point right now where I am ready to put down waterslide decals for the lettering and some decorative stuff in a field of blue. I've used waterslide decals before with good success, but that was over the cheaper craft paint. This airbrush paint I'm using now is very flat. Can you decal over it, or would you want to put a very misty layer of clear down before you put on your decals?

Sorry for all the questions. I am treading in new territory here. BTW, Vid1900 advises you clear the playfield before you do your touchups, and I didn't do that. My reason for not doing it is I hadn't decided which clear to use, and I was afraid putting down varathane and then SprayMax2K on top of it would cause some kind of odd reaction and cause my playfield to spontaneously combust.

Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Dan

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#28 10 years ago

Sorry, a shameless bump. Anybody have advice for installing waterslide decals over freshly sprayed (and very flat) airbrush paint? Can't decide if it's risky to waterslide directly on the paint or if I should wait until a misted layer of clear is down.

Thanks in advance
Dan

#32 10 years ago

Thanks for the replies. Here are my choices as I see them.

1. Restore with Varathane.
Pros: Cheap; Time-tested product; I am familiar with it; Good results; Minimal health-related concerns
Cons: Not the best results possible

2. Step to to SprayMax2k
Pros: Better results; no need to clean equip; no need to buy an air compressor.
Cons: Introduces the need for googles and probably a different style respirator due to safety concerns; Not time-tested. May react with decals (unknown). Once you shake a can it has a shelf-life.

3. Dive into full HVLP setup
Pros: Best results; time tested results; more freedom than rattle can (can mix up a batch whenever you need one).
Cons: Also requires googles and respirator; would also require an investment in air compressor and guns; high learning curve on how to set up gun, clean gun, maintain the compressor, etc. Time intensive since each batch requires mixing, cleaning, etc.

As Vid says, there is risk. SprayMax2k introduces much of that risk by being an unknown and untested product that may or may not react to decals, and it may or may not be better to spray down a thin layer before decaling, but it's not known so therefore there is a risk.

I think I'm going to go ahead and proceed with spraymax2K as planned. It will be good to have some results to share with Pinsiders. This is a machine I am restoring to keep, not sell, and it's not a high $ machine, so I think that helps also. Wish me luck! A little too cold to spray anything quite yet, so I'll finish my painting which is almost done and decal soon.

Thanks again guys.
Dan

#35 10 years ago

Okay, I now have a plan!

Just to recap, the painting is mostly done, but I've been undecided on how to proceed with my project. Since I only do 1-2 playfields a year, I'd like to use SprayMax2k as my clearcoat of choice. For somebody who does a lot of them, a full HVLP painting setup is a no-brainer. For somebody like me, SprayMax has a lot going for it. No equipment to buy. No cleanup. And the results... well, look at these pics (not mine).

PINBALL
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/paragon-pf-restore#post-1243739 (Pinsider spaceport, more on him later)
http://www.duo-county.com/~rob/pinball/clearcoat.html

NON-PINBALL
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/off-topic/287621d1356881250-spraymax-2k-2-part-clear-img_0340.jpg
http://www.xjrider.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=18 (long load time)

The only reason I've been hesitant is that I've never used SprayMax before and considered it an unknown. Will it melt my decals? Don't know. Should I lay down the clear before the decals or decal over the flat airbrush paint? Don't know. Well, I have good news. I PM'd pinsider Spaceport about his results using SprayMax over his Paragon inserts. He was very generous and gave me lots of info about his experience with the product.

So here is the Cliff's notes version. Disclaimer: this is based on my conversations with Spaceport and also reading everything I can find on the internet. This is not (yet) based on any actual experience.

So...since SprayMax 2K is essentially just automotive clearcoat in a can, it seems you use it exactly like you use auto clear. According to Vid1900's ultimate guide, this means you'd spray a light coat of this product when you first get started, to lock in the wood fibers. This is somewhat of a problem with SprayMax, because once you mix it inside the can, the clock begins to tick and the remainder must be used in roughly 24 to 48 hours. So IF you're done with your touchups in 24 hours (yeah right...) you're golden and can spray another thin coat to lock in those results. This is a pretty big if for me, though, since I'm a slow worker. So it's POSSIBLE you'll have to spend the whole $18 on a misted coat at the beginning and would have to waste the rest of that can. But it's also possible you could get a buddy who wants his playfield misted for free, which is what I'll be doing (see below).

So here is my plan...

I ordered my SprayMax last night from http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm. Thanks to pinsider Aurich for that link and recomendation. It will ship later today from Arkansas. Two cans were $50 shipped. It's still not quite warm enough here to paint anything, so that gives me some time to build a paint booth in my garage. I'll be using a jumpsuit, respirator, goggles, etc. but I want to build a paint booth in addition to all this. I've just always wanted one, and since this is a new house to me, no time like the present. I'll start a different thread for this build soon.

One other development is a friend at work gave me a Baby Pac Man he bought used that he wants restored. I cleaned this up with 91% and then Naptha, and I'll shoot the "lock in the good" layer on this along with my Pinbot's "lock in the airbrush paints" layer.

I feel good about where I am with things now. A million thanks to Spaceport for answering my questions so quickly and being so helpful. Thanks also for all the words of encouragement. The biggest thanks of all is to Vid1900 for his amazing guide, but I have something else planned for that.

Dan

#36 10 years ago
Quoted from rollinover:

do you plan on installing LEDs throughout

I have a stockpile of LEDs that I use for testing, and I also loan them out to buddies for testing. I will have to see how they look. Some colors I like better than others, and I usually end up using them here and there but not across the board. Everybody's different, I know.

Dan

#37 10 years ago

Last night I started designing my PVC cross draft spray booth. I wasn't able to find much information about making your own spray booth here on pinside. I found a lot of info from guys who shoot motorcycle parts, though.

If you're not familiar with what I'm talking about, a crossdraft spray booth is basically a dedicated space for painting that brings in filtered air in one corner, re-filters it, and and blows it out the other. It has a few goals/purposes.

1. Prevent contamination when painting. This is done by sealing the area air tight except for an intake filter, which you use to filter the incoming (fresh) air, keeping it as clean as possible.

2. Catch overspray particles. This is done by pulling air out on the opposite corner and forcing
that air (and most overspray particles) through a filter and then outside.

3. Vent out the vapors. Besides the particles in the air, there will also be vapor. You want that outside where it can dissapate into the air and not be left behind in your garage.

My design is what is known as a ghetto spray booth. My budget is $70. I'll be using PVC, plastic from the Dollar Tree, some fans I have on hand, and furnance filters. I would like to point out that I'm NOT BUILDING THIS SPRAY ROOM AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR PROPER SAFTEY EQUIPMENT. Sprayed ACC is very toxic, and making a pvc shell and wrapping it in plastic will not change that fact. I won't do anything differently (respirator, googles, jumpsuit) as a result of this booth.

Here's my mock up. Stay tuned....
CrossDraftPaintRoom.pngCrossDraftPaintRoom.png

#39 10 years ago

Good info about spray booths for those who want more info.

http://medicine.yale.edu/intmed/prep/shop/spray.aspx

2 weeks later
#40 10 years ago

Some pics of progress. The fan and lights are mounted and the PVC is cemented. Snow on the ground today Still too cold here to spray, but I plan to be ready when it warms up.

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#42 10 years ago

I saw some references to spray booths in Vid1900's resto thread. I think a dedicated spray booth thread is in order, so once I get running if it hasn't happened yet I'll start one.

5 months later
#43 9 years ago

Busy weekend. Saturday I put down a very thin mist coat of SprayMax2k, waited an hour (only 60 degrees here), put down another medium to thin coat.

Sunday night, sanded with 1000, installed decals, sprayed another mist coat. I waited 35-40 mins in the paint room for that to flash. Then I laid down the rest of the can, pretty wet.

This is my first ever experience using auto clear. Hoping when it's fully cured and I knock it down flat I'll have a really nice coat. Will maybe need one more thick coat?

Thoughts on my progress?

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#44 9 years ago

Well, I waited 24 hours for my clear to cure, then I started with 1000 grit and a drywall sanding block. I was really nervous that I was going to sand down into paint or sand down into inserts that I hadn't fully leveled. But after a bit, I got brave and switched to 800 grit. I went very slowly and very lightly and tried to come from all directions.

As Vid1900 says in his tutorial, the clear follows the contours of the playfield. In my case the "contours" include planking, lines from factory mylar, indentations from the ball dropping off the upper playfield, etc. A lot of contours!

I sanded as flat as I could across all these imperfections. I'm hopeful that the next wet coat will be my last one!

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#45 9 years ago

So, I wanted to say a few words about my experience with SprayMax2K. You shake it for 2 minutes, press the red button to mix the catalyst, shake it for two minutes more, then start spraying.

So here's a disclaimer. Since I've not sprayed with a gun, I am not really able to do a fair comparison. I can say that I've seen a couple videos on youtube of guys spraying clear with a gun. Based on that, I think I was pushing a HECK of a lot less product than they were. That made it somewhat difficult to gauge how fast (or slow) to move and whether my pattern overlapped enough and whether my can was the ideal distance (10-12").

The guns guys are getting a wide fanned out pattern, and mine was more of a circle pattern like you'd expect from a can. I had ordered a couple of upgraded variable tips for my can but chickened out on putting it on the first can at the last minute. On the second and final can I plan to use the thing and will report back.

One thing that I think will help me is I plan to position my 500W halogen outside the spraybooth, shining in. I think "wetness" as I spray is really the gauge that will help me determine speed and pattern. I could somewhat gauge this by craning my neck to see the overhead light's reflection, but a brighter light will help there, I'm hoping.

Overall, I thought the can went on pretty well, though. I actually used every last drop of the can and had no dribbles or speckles or spatter at the end. It just quit spraying. I'd read about people leaving some in the can as a precautionary thing.

As far as the product, I think it's high quality and the real thing! If you're looking for automotive clear in a can, I do think this is just that. From everything I've read, it seems to cure identically and sand identically. So assuming that what walks like a duck and quacks like a duck really is a duck, let's list some pros and cons of this stuff versus mixing your own.

PROS:
-Gives the finish you'd expect with auto clear. Colors are AMAZING!
-No mixing
-No possibility of contamination or dried glops in your clear.
-Nothing to clean up after spraying (less time in the booth).
-Eliminates the need for the line filter, air compressor, a clean hose, guns, etc.
-Gives you an option to "demo" auto clear to decide if the product is something you are even interested in using.

CONS:
-Costs more per ounce.
-Versus mixing your own, you may have to shift your schedule a bit based on the shelf life of the can. It's bricked after 48 hours, so you have to spray on consecutive days if you require two coats from a single can.
-You have no flexibility of "fast" or "medium" catalysts as you would with mixing. You get what you get.
-There seems to be a learning curve of the spray pattern, but with a gun you can spray test patterns inexpensively. This stuff is pricy, so you might not want to spray a ton of cardboard to get it "just right."
-For raised inserts, not sure what I will do. Spray onto the bottom of a pickle jar and eyedropper it? Buy a quart of the real stuff? Not sure.... If I spray onto the pickle jar before my thick coat, I've started the 48 hour clock...
-There is less support available and less "known" about using the product.
-Not 100% sure of the long term results, although it seems to be the same product.

Soon I will also report back on how my spray booth worked. Stay tuned...

#47 9 years ago

Thanks Mark! Seeing your progress, I've actually been leaning that way. Now that you've done all the hard part...again...

#49 9 years ago

Hi guys. Well, I couldn't help spraying another coat last night! I'd planned to wait until Friday, but it was a gorgeous night here with low humidity. This time I used the variable tip, set to full flow, but I couldn't see it made a difference in the spray pattern, so save your money if you're buying the stuff.

A few things I think I should report back on. As you saw from my previous pics, the first wet coat followed the contours (imperfections) of my playfield. I sanded pretty aggressively and knocked down a lot of high spots. This time I didn't do a mist coat--just went right to my thick coat. I put down about half the can. Maybe 7-9 slow passes, overlapping 50%, maybe 12" away from the playfield. The result looked pretty wet, which was my goal.

So...with this coat and the other wet coat, I've got some orange peel. It's not a deal breaker, but it's there. It will have to be sanded out prior to buffing.

I think it's only fair to mention this as a con of SprayMax2K. I think we can say there is a strong likelihood you will get orange peel with this product. Re-reading the the other posts on the forum, the other guys who used the product got some orange peel as well.

So, check out my pics. I'll post again once I sand out the orange peel.

At this point, I'm not ready to return a verdict on SprayMax. Some of the time it saved me in gun clean-up is now spent sanding. I think I really just need to finish this before I come to any conclusions.

Stay tuned...

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#51 9 years ago

Thanks Lurch. If you follow Vid's Ultimate Guide to Playfield Restorations you really can't go wrong. His methods just work. This isn't my first playfield restoration, but it's the first one I'm truly proud of. Now that I've kicked the craft paints to the curb, I'll never look back!

Dan

#53 9 years ago

Well, I think I hit it out of the park with my SprayMax2K application. The third can was the charm.

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IMG_4303.JPGIMG_4303.JPG

Two things helped. I had laid down two full cans previously, averaging two wet coats per can. Between coats I was sanding out the bumps from planking, orange peel, etc. I wasn't sanding totally flat between coats but was sanding it "smoother". This time I sanded it totally flat. So flat that I hit my inserts in four spots. So sanding totally flat certainly helped.

The thing that REALLY helped was that this time I laid down the entire can for one coat. I was moving very, very slowly, overlapping 50% on each pass. I maybe made it 3 times across the playfield before the can was gone. This gave me a thick enough coat that it self-leveled and looks like glass.

Anxious to get pinbot back together so I can start the next restore. I'm optimistic that my next one will require less time in the booth, now that I know how to work with the product a bit better.

Dan

3 weeks later
#58 9 years ago

Things are coming back together. A shout out to pinsider cliffy for the new frames. Originals looked like they'd been used to drive rail spikes. These are great and were very reasonable.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

Dan

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1 week later
#63 9 years ago

Hi guys. I'm putting it all back and decided to call this thread done. My pinbot isn't perfect, but it's exactly what I wanted. An amazing player's machine that's a keeper and looks amazing.

First of all, thanks to Vid1900, whose resto thread upped my game a hundred fold versus what I was doing before. Can't say enough about his guides. Also followed his pop bumper and flipper threads to the letter.

I did opt to differ from Vid's guide in just two ways. One, I used SprayMax2K as my clearcoat instead of investing in the compressor and gun set up, at least for now. Also, I did use the roll frisket he links to for a some of things, but for much of my project I used either Tamiya masking tape or Badger blue package foto frisket. Both were amazing products IMO, and obviously the results here don't lie.

In closing, I'm pleased with this. It's not perfect, but it's quite an improvement. Even the places where I made mistakes they were mistakes I learned from, and that is valuable.

Good luck to all restorers out there, and please take the time to start these resto threads when you do restore a game!

Dan

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