I'm digging this sofar.

LMK if you'd like donation of LollyPop Skirts for your build. I'd offer bases and bodies too; but it looks like you are using old style bases from the EM and probably the older style bally bodies which aren't available in translucent colors in high volume.

I don't recognize the drop targets used in the new stern assemblies; but I'm guessing it's the same as the Data East versions. If you wanted to go translucent; again - let me know.

I'm curious how you wired the WS2812's to the pop bumper body with only two wire holes. Did you have to modify it in some way? I thought about doing something similar; and the conclusion I came to is that I might be able to use microcoax in the existing holes... which "in theory" would give up to 4 wires... or 2 power; 2 signal wires. I haven't done a mockup yet; just curious what you did.

I've always wondered why this CupHead video game is so popular. I had no idea it had spawned virtual pinball tables. This homebrew is pretty damn cool so far. Hopefully; we'll see this when it's done at a show or three.

Yeah; those are defiantly C114 style bodies.
My lollypop skirts are defiantly compatible as I designed them with the 3D file for the C114 bodies on Shapeways.

Looking at the new pictures you shared; I'm 90% sure these are the flat wms style:
http://pinball-mods.com/url/WMS03-8749

Could the rebound rubber not be bouncy enough anymore... IE is it NOS? Would a Titan replacement give much more bounce?

Sorry ... a little lost.
Are you saying that none of your GI is functional? is it an addressable RGB strip or just standard LEDs in standard sockets?

yeah; I was thinking there might be a timing issue if WS2812 LEDs... Or a signal level issue.
I tend to not use WS2812 because they are temperamental timing bitches. IT works fine if you have fine control like a FPGA; but not so much if you are driving it via Software Bit-Banging.

The biggest project I've actually done is a RazPi APA102 addressable LED strip with +500 LEDs to light my walk way at night. Did it in APA102 because I knew that a Microcontroller will have issues trying to keep the timing right on the more widely available "neopixel" type leds.

Sexy...
I miss vcarve... then I remember the fiasco I had with the trial version vs paid version.
One of these days; I'm going to stop playing business owner - and start a new homebrew.
One of these days...

I had the same expert advice.
I used 2part clear to level my inserts to the PF on ST:MU... so there is definitely precedence to do it that way.

I also had them print a white layer to block light around the inserts before printing the colors+black keylines. Just make sure you "erase" the white layer in the center of the inserts.
The white should help "negate" the veneer darkening unless you are leaving a lot of wood showing thru the art.

I personally think the crazin Red ads character.
That said; yeah... I would understand the desire to get this spot on.

What was used for clear coat before the latex print?
I'm betting there was a chemical issue between the two materials.

Actually; it's more than that.
I've been VERY interested in UV printing... for several years for this hobby.
In addition to be very expensive; UV printer machines must absolutely be run "regularly"... as is every 24 hours.
The White Inks used (was well as the varnishes) settle in the lines and in the ink tanks.
Almost every printer has some kind of recirculating pump configuration the keep the ink flowing in the systems to help prevent this settling.
When the settling occurs; it can and will clog the lines and worse the print heads leading to costly replacement. A print head new cost above 1k usually... and many printers have two heads... so this isn't a trival loss.

Some manufacturers say you need to print at least once a day... and some also suggest removing the ink carts and shaking them. My assumption is the act of uninstalling then shaking them requires a "purge" of the lines when reinstalled; which again leads to wasted ink and lost revenue.

Its my understanding if you don't have large volumes... you have high losses due to maintenance and repair... so that is likely the reason for the resistance you are seeing.

I double up on the water slide decals. Two layers to help the. Be more opaque for the inserts

Easier with a led light board