Nice work!
(Topic ID: 280899)
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1 month later
Why bother with that? You can find Stern 50v transformers relatively cheap(hint: they used them in more than just pinball games). I'm still playing with my own designs, but you could run the whole playfield off of a Whitestar(or SAM) power I/O board and an P-ROC. It should feed every voltage you need except for the TV.
EDIT: you could also just run it through a couple of bridge rectifiers, some fuses and maybe a couple of buck converters to dial in just the voltages you need, if you wanted to avoid the rest of the power I/O board.
Quoted from scottacus:Sure but I already have a beefy ALI transformer and my CobraPin board is set up for 35v so I'd like to stay at that voltage.
Fair enough.
You could just run a small 48v switching power supply and an OPP power board just for the flippers. Everything else would be happy with the 36v.
Quoted from scottacus:Today's job is to figure out a way to get leaf switches behind the DT's.
Did you think about mounting optos instead of a leaf switch?
Quoted from scottacus:Sorry I haven't worked on a machine newer than RaB, they have optos for rubbers?
Ah, nevermind. It was a brain fart. I thought that you were trying to find a way to shoehorn another switch in there, for some reason. I'll shut up now.
2 months later
Quoted from scottacus:it would not even put out enough power to charge the caps on Cobrapin before the safety shut down would kick in
This sounds like the inrush limiter(TH1) isn't working. If it happens on the next power supply as well, it may be a problem with that piece. Do you have another PS to test it? I imagine a 24v or 36v should behave the same if the TH1 is bad.
Quoted from scottacus:The solution is to replace the 1.3 ohm thermistor with a 5 ohm thermistor so that the initial current draw while the caps charge is 48/5 or 9.6A which the power supply should not mind.
Yeah, once you described the problem, that was my first thought. When I was first experimenting with controlling solenoids with an Arduino, I ran into this. I ended up building the OPP power filter board to fix this with a 24v power supply that acted exactly the same way. It looks like Cobrapin incorporated this, which made me suspect that thermistor(also known as an inrush limiter).
2 months later
Scared Stiff has the crate scoop eject straight into a pop. That's the only game I've reliably seen broken skirts in. Now that I know about this design consideration, I'm seeing examples in all of my machines. Pretty cool.
1 month later
Quoted from scottacus:Onevox will have to correct me if I'm wrong but I heard $150 for the two playfields.
Whoa! Is that a friend price, or are they willing to do that for others?
Quoted from scottacus:ThatOneDude, I have no idea but the printers know Onevox very well.
Well, I would be very interested if they are doing this for others at a similar price range. I know of three projects, maybe 4, that could use an option to print playfields.
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