(Topic ID: 280899)

Cuphead Home Brew Pinball

By scottacus

10 months ago

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  • 366 posts
  • 55 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 minutes ago by wayinla
  • Topic is favorited by 79 Pinsiders


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    There are 366 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.
    #351 5 days ago

    Hey Scott
    Amazing work! One of my favorite threads to follow on Pinside.

    #352 4 days ago

    LynnInDenver have you ever worked with waterslide laser decals? If so do you have a brand of paper that you can recommend? Years ago I made a few ink jet water slide decals with Testors paper that turned out well but they were a PIA to work with because you had to clear coat them before wetting to prevent the ink from running. Also do you use a wetting agent on your decals?

    docquest you ask a tough question, the long and short is that I don't know because I don't have any lights that I can drive to test that out right now. I'm using two different kinds of decal paper, white and clear. I did a test with a white backed "7" on an insert and using a super strong flashlight set back about a foot this is what the insert looks like. I'd say not bad.

    20210912_203420 (resized).jpg

    The problem is that this black seven has "opaque" white behind the black toner. With just clear I doubt that the "7" will be as opaque but I could be wrong. I say "opaque" because you can see a difference between the Mugman image at the top where it sits over the yellow and where it sits over the plain wood. I put a second decal over Mugman's head and that helped a little but not completely.

    Hey wallybgood it's really great to hear you say that, coming from you that means a lot to me! I have to say that I am really ready for this to be done. My wife even said that she will throw a party when the machine is done because she's getting tired of it as well. Here are the in/out lanes along with a paper test piece for the lower middle graphic for fitting purposes.

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    #353 4 days ago
    Quoted from scottacus:

    LynnInDenver have you ever worked with waterslide laser decals? If so do you have a brand of paper that you can recommend? Years ago I made a few ink jet water slide decals with Testors paper that turned out well but they were a PIA to work with because you had to clear coat them before wetting to prevent the ink from running. Also do you use a wetting agent on your decals?

    It's been 20 years since I dealt with laser decals of any form, so I have no idea what they're like now. My understanding is you still need to clearcoat them even if it's toner, just to keep things from disintegrating.

    I don't really use any wetting agents... it's just a soak in warm to hot water to activate the decal, and I apply a decal solvent once the decal is applied and dried out with a cotton bud.

    #354 3 days ago

    More decals down but I'm running out of white paper so another order has been placed.

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    #355 3 days ago

    I have used the Sunnyscopa brand waterslide decals purchased on Amazon with good results.

    I haven’t tried it but I think I read somewhere that you can just put another decal over the first one to make it more opaque. Makes sense to me. I think I might put a layer of clear between the two decals.

    I also had my decals printed at Staples for a a few cents because I found that their printer had much better ink saturation than my Brothers laser printer at home.

    #356 3 days ago

    I'm out of white laser printer paper so I figured I'd post my current technique which has changed from the first decals to now.

    When 300 dpi images are brought into Cricut's "Design Space" the images are much larger than scale so they have to be resized to match what you need. Cricut also can only print and cut a 9.25" x 6.75" area. If you send multiple images to Cricut Design Center it will try to orient them so that they can be printed and cut but Cricut is wasteful of paper in its choices and each image needs to be individually resized.

    What I've gone to is making a blank 9.25" x 6.75" canvas in Photo shop and then I cut/edit/paste the images onto this canvas and then add four black squares into the corners of the canvas so that when saved as a png, Photoshop doesn't auto crop to the outside of the images. Now when you bring the graphic into Cricut all you have to do is resize to 9.25 x 6.75. Way easier than when I was painstakingly resizing each individual graphic and saves money since the decal paper is $1.65 a sheet.

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    The Cricut software will print a perimeter box around the graphics as well as bleed lines based upon what it sees on the border. These can look a little funky if the black keyline is thin because is sees both the black as well as the color next to it and tries to print something in between. At any rate the printed decal is run through the Cricut and it magically cuts all of the borders with incredible speed and accuracy. What wound take me hours by hand with an x-acto knife and scissors it does in about a minute.

    The graphics are then cut apart for application. In this case I've got the big center graphic that is way too big for the cricut so it was made into three different sections with extra white printed along the edges of "HEAD" and "MAN" so that the middle graphic can overlay these and the white shouldn't telegraph through.

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    The decal is wet in hot water (thanks LynnInDenver) for just a few seconds until the decal can be moved with some force.

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    An edge is picked up of the decal section that needs to be weeded and all of that is removed.

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    The decal goes back into the water so that it starts to lift.

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    It then gets pulled out and set upside down on a sheet of clear mylar.

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    The paper is carefully pulled back on itself to just leave the decal and mylar.

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    The mylar is used to position the decal on the playfield and then pulled up and reused for the next decal.

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    Here's where I'm at now that I'm out of white decal paper. It's a PIA but it's all that I can think of to make this work right now. This is the "B" playfield so the mistakes that I've made on this one will hopefully not happen on the "A" playfield.

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    #357 2 days ago

    Tonight I switched over to clear decal paper to make the decals for the inserts. The clear paper is a breeze to work with compared to the white paper. If you put the white paper into hot water for an hour not all of it will release but if you show the clear decal paper a glass of water, it wants to release from the paper. I could actually slide the clear decals off of the paper and onto the playfield without all of the mylar mumbo-jumbo.

    Here's the playfield with all of the clear decals in place. The clear ones that are just black lettering look sharp on the yellow paint. I was also able to put decal rings over the in/out lane inserts to clean up their edges. The DASH graphics were done in clear so that I can place the colored letters over them

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    I was pleased with how well the clear decals block light on the inserts. Again I don't have any LEDs to test so I set a super bright flashlight on top of an overturned garbage can so the light was the same distance from the inserts in both photos. This one of the SOUL lights is black toner on white decal paper.

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    This one of the thousands and multiplier inserts is clear decal paper.

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    I'd say that they are pretty close in opacity to each other and as someone mentioned I could double up the decals to increase opacity. In fact I have a second set of clears for the thousands all ready to go.

    #358 2 days ago

    so, this brings up the question of why not paint all the white needed and then just use clear decals?

    #359 2 days ago

    I wonder how the opacity would look if you printed the black insert numbers on white decal paper then used the cricut to cut them out?

    I'd think black numbers on white decal material should be more opaque than black numbers on clear.

    #360 2 days ago

    BorgDog making the yellow mask was enough of a challenge. Trying to get white in all of the locations where it would be needed is far beyond my capabilities.

    docquest the SOUL light inserts are black toner on white decal paper that was run through the cricut.

    #361 2 days ago

    It's coming together very nicely. Any shows you plan to bring it to next year?

    #362 2 days ago

    Looking awesome! Really enjoyed following along on this project. Can't wait to see the final machine all done.

    #363 1 day ago

    As mentioned before I'm out of white decal paper so I did some experiments with clear decals. I added a second clear decal to each of the thousands inserts and this increased the blocking ability of the insert by a fair bit. I tried to shoot photos to show the difference but my phone was unable to capture the changes but they are very apparent when viewed directly. I also added the colored "DASH" letters over the clear decal index.

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    Because of what I've learned thus far on the "B" playfield, I'm changing my strategy for the lower playfield decals. I won't bore you with the details but the change involved adding a clear decal to the multipliers to help index the purple side decals as well as help orient the "Bonus Multipliers" text. Here's the first decal on the "A" playfield. The end is in sight.

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    #364 42 minutes ago


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    Well at least with the "B" playfield decals. I'm going to wait until the new white decals get here to work on the "A" playfield, should be some time next week...

    #365 24 minutes ago

    Looks great. You should be very happy with the results!

    #366 9 minutes ago

    Very cool! Can’t wait to see it put together.

    There are 366 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.

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