(Topic ID: 102062)

Cult of Evaporust

By Cheddar

9 years ago


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  • 304 posts
  • 108 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by hawkmoon
  • Topic is favorited by 98 Pinsiders

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    Topic index (key posts)

    7 key posts have been marked in this topic

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    Post #6 Example of some legs cleaned with evaporust Posted by Cheddar (9 years ago)

    Post #8 Side by side example photo of evaporust cleaning Posted by futurepinhead (9 years ago)

    Post #22 Links to US vendors who sell evaporust Posted by KenLayton (9 years ago)

    Post #24 Suggestions on step wise process for evaporust Posted by ForceFlow (9 years ago)

    Post #78 Review of 'Metal Rescue' alternative Posted by PhilGreg (8 years ago)

    Post #98 Another set of leg comparison photos Posted by jeffc (7 years ago)


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    #3 9 years ago

    Yup, I was surprised the first time I used it. Thought I was overpaying at $22/gallon, but the stuff works like magic.

    #24 9 years ago
    Quoted from NJGecko:

    So once you use it, do you need to seal the metal with anything? I know I've wire-brushed off things before and if you don't clear it, you get surface rust almost immediately.

    After the evaporust bath, I rinse & dry, then apply mothers mag polish, followed by carnuba paste wax.

    #26 9 years ago
    Quoted from NextoPin:

    Supposedly apple cider vinegar works, and is much cheaper.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-do-you-remove-rust-from-legs/page/2
    I've yet to try it, I have the PVC, just need to get the caps.

    I would think that might be too acidic, and might cause some pitting.

    The only time I've used vinegar in a recipe for removing black tarnish on brass, and that was diluted with water, and also included some salt and baking soda (I can't remember what the exact recipe was off the top of my head, though).

    9 months later
    #32 8 years ago
    Quoted from davebart5:

    Can we review what you guys recommend to do to parts after they come out of the bath? I seen a few different opinions.
    Once you take it out, you rinse it down, dry, and then use Brasso to shine it up again? Will the brasso help seal it to reduce the possibility of it re-rusting? Or is it carnuaba wax the stuff that seals it from re-rusting?
    I bought a bottle of the evapo-rust and look forward to restoring my metal parts.
    Thanks guys!

    Rise, dry, then either toss in a tumbler and hand-polish and/or buff on a buffing wheel.

    After that, I usually wax them.

    You can also clear coat them or spray them with polyurethane. However--polyurethane dulls it and your mirror shine won't be a mirror shine any more.

    #35 8 years ago
    Quoted from davebart5:

    Great Thanks Forceflow and Ken! If I don't have access to a tumbler or have pieces to large for a tumbler, or even a buffing wheel, is there a way I can do it by hand? Sorry I'm such a newbie here.

    Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish (either amazon or walmart) and microfiber towels

    http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloth-Pack/dp/B009FUF6DM

    You should really think about a tumbler and buffing wheel. Doing *everything* by hand will take a considerable amount of time.

    3 months later
    #37 8 years ago
    Quoted from iwantansi:

    I have just joined the Cult, starting reassembly of my Genie and all of the parts have just general rust on them. The lockdown bar receiver in particular looked pretty nasty before.. did a soak overnight and its not "new" by any means, but looks so much better.

    For really thick layers of rust, you may need to soak in evaporush, then wash and brush the part to clean off the loose rust, then soak again and repeat.

    #39 8 years ago
    Quoted from burningman:

    yep...+1 on that. I have soaked for 24-48 hours....then wipe, scrape, and back in the stew again. Really does make sh*tty legs decent.

    I'm going through this process on a rusty backglass lift channel right now. It's slow going, but there is gradual improvement.

    2 months later
    #43 8 years ago
    Quoted from sohchx:

    I get my Evaporust at $9.99 a gallon and $3.99 for 32oz's. Great stuff!!!

    Where?!?

    The cheapest I've seen it is $23 at advanced auto.

    1 month later
    #65 8 years ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    Liquid Lightning? Isn't that a caustic acid drain & sewer cleaner?

    Looks like it's sulfuric acid...

    #72 8 years ago
    Quoted from jhanley:

    0000 steel wool and a little elbow grease does the same thing.

    Steel wool leaves fine scratches behind. If you want a mirror finish, steel wool doesn't work too well unless you also buff afterwards. But then if it's a plated part, all you're doing is thinning the material more than necessary.

    #75 8 years ago
    Quoted from jhanley:

    I don't use chemicals when I use steel wool.Just a small amount of oil.Works for me.

    There are too many downsides to use steel wool as the primary rust removal method.

    3 months later
    #90 7 years ago
    Quoted from westofrome:

    Thanks - I'm not planning on using evaporust in the ultrasonic, I was wondering about soaking in evaporust (in whatever container) VS ultrasonic cleaning with typical stuff (simple green/dishsoap/water)

    The ultrasonic takes care of dirt/grime, especially in small crevices. It does nothing for rust.

    Evaporust chemically attacks the rust and removes it.

    #93 7 years ago
    Quoted from CentiZen:

    I didn't have any tubes like that to soak in, so instead I went down to the hardware store and picked up 10ft of plastic eavestrough and a couple of ends for around 10 bucks. Cut a length of it to match the legs, sealed the ends up with some silicone and it made the perfect soaking vessel.

    I used PVC and put a cap on the end with PVC cement. The next time I needed to use it, I was going to put in a small pipe and valve to drain it easier, since pouring everything out of a 5' length of pipe gets a bit messy.

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