New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 102062)

Cult of Evaporust


By Cheddar

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 237 posts
  • 96 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by TheLaw
  • Topic is favorited by 86 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 67 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    red-oatey-sink-hole-covers-33403d-64_1000 (resized).jpg
    AE128090-D8F4-42E0-8AE9-DA1D0ABBACAC (resized).jpeg
    5D2EFB24-0C26-4436-AACD-02CACA61CC74 (resized).jpeg
    IMG_20200309_215741761 (resized).jpg
    010 (resized).jpg
    jasco (resized).jpeg
    IMG-4510 (resized).JPG
    20190129_182053 (resized).jpg
    20190123_234308 (resized).jpg
    20190121_162536 (resized).jpg
    IMG_20180718_170134244_HDR (resized).jpg
    IMG_20180717_125921775 (resized).jpg
    20171219_072613 (resized).jpg
    20171218_205455 (resized).jpg
    IMG_7121 (resized).JPG
    2017-03-03 17.18.16 (resized).jpg

    Topic index (key posts)

    7 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

    There are 237 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
    #201 1 year ago

    Recent member of the cult, here. I've now done several sets of chrome legs with great results. I just got a classic Stern with silver textured finish on the legs. They look mostly great, but have a few rust spots. From reading, it seems I should be safe to put them in my evaporust PVC tube and it will only attack the rust, leaving the original pain OK?

    #202 1 year ago

    Yes, they should be ok provided the rust has not gotten underneath the paint.

    #203 1 year ago

    So what do you use for the wash? I stopped using the Evaporust because when I rinsed off the legs they’d immediately start rusting while rinsing.
    I have used the paste but the legs seem to still rust. I’ve got the rustoleolum spray paint now so I’d like to derust, rinse so they don’t rust and then spray them the nice hammertone silver. Any suggestions or step-by-step process descriptions?

    I have the PVC tube and to speed up the process I was using a small tank-heater to heat the evaporust to like 140 since I heard it does much better in hot water.
    Also how many hours at that temp? I also was using a small pump to circulate the mix, I wasn’t sure if that’s good or bad.

    #204 1 year ago
    Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

    So what do you use for the wash? I stopped using the Evaporust because when I rinsed off the legs they’d immediately start rusting while rinsing.
    I have used the paste but the legs seem to still rust. I’ve got the rustoleolum spray paint now so I’d like to derust, rinse so they don’t rust and then spray them the nice hammertone silver. Any suggestions or step-by-step process descriptions?
    I have the PVC tube and to speed up the process I was using a small tank-heater to heat the evaporust to like 140 since I heard it does much better in hot water.
    Also how many hours at that temp? I also was using a small pump to circulate the mix, I wasn’t sure if that’s good or bad.

    The times I've used it, I take the legs to a bathtub and rinse with hot water and immediately dry with a towel. Haven't had any rust return or any flash rusting.

    #205 1 year ago

    Gotta agree on that, first time I used it I got a little rust, "flash" may be the word, but anyway second time and al time, give the legs a good rinse and then dry them immediately.
    I have a question though, I see a awful lot of references to people spraying just about everything with sealer aka spray, whatever, I use "MODGE PODGE" and the KRYLON product, I use it on legs if Ive painted them. It does seems the paint likes to chip if two legs hit each other. When sealed with the acrylic spray, they don't chip so easily.
    I do not understand sealing lamp sockets. Isn't the product going to get between the surface of the light base and the socket and the socket itself? Seems to me it would be a deterrent to good electrical continuity. Please smarten me up here whats good and bad to spray and what advantages are gained? BESIDES legs of course.
    Thanks
    picture of my smart ass great nephew who uses words like synopsis ,scenario, and says about the salt truck to my brother" That's not salt granpa Randy, that's sodium chloride. Hes 4.

    010 (resized).jpg
    #206 1 year ago

    Very interesting and convincing examples shown here. Wondering if anyone uses this stuff on rusty parts that are too large or bulky to submerge in the solution? In such a case can it be sprayed on then rinsed off with a water hose? I’m thinking automotive use like if a differential housing has slight surface rust on the black paint, would this remove it then dry and repaint?

    I have also read that acetone can act as an effective rust remover, maybe it’s an ingredient of evaporust which is why it flashes off quickly?

    #207 1 year ago
    Quoted from PNBLWZD:

    Very interesting and convincing examples shown here. Wondering if anyone uses this stuff on rusty parts that are too large or bulky to submerge in the solution? In such a case can it be sprayed on then rinsed off with a water hose? I’m thinking automotive use like if a differential housing has slight surface rust on the black paint, would this remove it then dry and repaint?
    I have also read that acetone can act as an effective rust remover, maybe it’s an ingredient of evaporust which is why it flashes off quickly?

    This is why they sell it in 55 gallon drums and 5 gallon pails at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

    #208 1 year ago

    When you pull out the legs from the Evapo-Rust, immediately rinse them with hot water, towel dry, then use a hair dryer to finish drying them. As an extra measure to finish them up nicely, I apply chrome polish.

    1 week later
    #209 1 year ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    When you pull out the legs from the Evapo-Rust, immediately rinse them with hot water, towel dry, then use a hair dryer to finish drying them. As an extra measure to finish them up nicely, I apply chrome polish.

    I use the same technique and have had amazing results.

    #210 1 year ago
    Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

    The times I've used it, I take the legs to a bathtub and rinse with hot water and immediately dry with a towel. Haven't had any rust return or any flash rusting.

    Same. I rinse in hot water, towel it all down immediately, then hit it all with compressed air and a heat gun.

    #211 1 year ago

    My classic Stern legs with a little rust came out great, btw. I only left them in the solution for a couple hours instead of a whole day like chrome legs. I'll be doing this with a set of dark gray painted Bally legs with a bit of rust near the leveler area soon also.

    1 month later
    #212 1 year ago

    What about switches?

    Also flipper assembly as a whole?

    Got a Mario with rust on all screws and switches.

    Even on large block on bottomed of machine transistor?

    What do I do there?

    Thanks guys for any opinions

    #213 1 year ago
    Quoted from agodfrey:

    Pro tip. And PLEASE learn from my mistake! Ha. I thought I was an ok pipe sealer....nope. The first time I tried it a bunch gooshed out. Luckily I had bought an additional small bottle of it. All in all I think I lost a quart. Not the end of the world but $9 gone in a flash. Ha. So I went back to Lowes and found these sweet end caps. Works well!!
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Because of you pictures I did exact same thing.

    Thanks!
    Works perfectly

    3 months later
    #214 9 months ago

    Finally about time to discard my first gallon and buy a new one, since the evaporust is now black. First gallon got me through 6 machines worth of rusty parts with flying colors:
    24 legs (and levelers if I couldn't get them off.... They all came off no problem after the evaporust bath in a tube)
    48 leg bolts
    Countless random screws, washers and other random hardware.

    At about $15/gallon (the price I can generally find this stuff for), that comes out to about $2.50 per machine...plus maybe 25 cents worth of coffee filters and packing tape for cleaning the evaporust for reuse.

    General tips that worked well for me:
    I've found that the first set of legs/hardware comes out good to go after about 24-48 hours, depending on the amount of rust. I filter between machine loads and add about half a day for each additional machines-worth of parts. So, by the end, I'm leaving parts in the tube/tupperware for 4 days or so on "machine 6" .

    My filtering generally takes me about 10-15 minutes and consists of stuff I generally had just laying around: a 2 gallon plastic pail with a pour spout, a plastic funnel, a big piece of cheesecloth, a strainer, and 3 or 4 paper coffee filters.
    1. Fold the piece of cheesecloth to make 2 or 3 layers and just tape it (packing tape works well) over the top of the 2 gallon bucket and pour the entire used solution through it. This takes out all the big chunks of crap that will plug up a paper coffee filter really quickly.
    2. Put the funnel in the original gallon evaporust container, set the strainer in it, and place a paper coffee filter in that. Pour the evaporust from the bucket through the filter/strainer/funnel to refill your gallon. Discard/swap out the filter after filling it 2-3 times, since it will start to get clogged from micro-particles. Putting the filter in a strainer first makes removing/changing it much easier, allows you to 'shake it" a little to finish getting the solution through it, and provides a better "open" surface area for it to drain than you will get if you put it straight in the funnel.
    3. Just rinse your equipment and cheesecloth with a hose/sprayer when done and you'll be good to use it again the next time.
    IMG_20200309_215741761 (resized).jpg

    6 months later
    #215 71 days ago

    I've been using Evaporust for years now to de-rust mechs, bolts, lockdown hardware, stuff like that, never legs until now. Just put a tube together and have done four sets of legs so far, with results from good to amazing. Before soaking, I give the legs a good scrubbing with Simple Green to remove any dirt, old wax, and loose rust, soak for a full day or two in my warm utility room, then another good scrubbing with Simple Green to remove any leftover Evaporust and residue. Finally, blow off with compressed air, especially the bottom where the metal is folded over and the leveller screws in, as water is always trapped in there, and coat leg with carnauba wax. Difficult to tell from a few feet away which are the de-rusted legs and which are the brand new ones on my machines.

    #216 71 days ago

    Would be curious to see a photo of your tube.

    #217 70 days ago
    Quoted from radial_head:

    Would be curious to see a photo of your tube.

    I'm thinking it's this one

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cult-of-evaporust/page/4#post-4499034

    I made one similar, no pics however.

    #218 70 days ago

    I wanted to share my experiences with rust removal, evaporust, on metal.
    In using everything out there for 50 years, and polishing metal with commercial buffing equipment, in my work,
    one aspect is missing, IMO, on the end steps.
    Yes indeed, All rust removal chemical needs to be washed off.

    But I go further. I neutralize, with White Vinegar, then, I wipe down a few times with 99% alcohol.

    If it is metal prone to rust, or I have removed large amounts, I then clear coat.
    Small items, I use alcohol based Everbrite, Larger parts like legs, can be almost anything, even waxing, to keep moisture
    out.

    Too often, residual antirust products remain, and either rust returns, the pieces turn white or black, or they just get too brittle,
    if there isnt much metal left, after severe rusting.

    I had just finished chatting with someone, who didnt neutralize, and clear, and the rust returned within weeks.

    #219 70 days ago

    Radial-
    Here’s a picture of what I made for cleaning legs. The pipe plug is in case it gets tipped over.

    5D2EFB24-0C26-4436-AACD-02CACA61CC74 (resized).jpegAE128090-D8F4-42E0-8AE9-DA1D0ABBACAC (resized).jpeg
    #220 70 days ago

    Do people usually keep their container/tube indoors or outdoors when not really using? I wasn't sure if there was temperature issues and/or if there was any reason to do one way or the other. thanks

    #221 70 days ago
    Quoted from cburnett11:

    Do people usually keep their container/tube indoors or outdoors when not really using? I wasn't sure if there was temperature issues and/or if there was any reason to do one way or the other. thanks

    I keep mine sealed in the garage because it can get messy when removing stuff from the pipe.

    #222 70 days ago
    Quoted from cburnett11:

    I wasn't sure if there was temperature issues and/or if there was any reason to do one way or the other. thanks

    Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

    I keep mine sealed in the garage ...

    And I keep mine in the basement so sounds like it's goof either way

    #223 70 days ago

    I haven't strained mine yet. I was thinking of pulling an old cotton t shirt around the opening then pouring it into a storage tub, then cleaning the gunk out of the tube and putting the evaporust back. Sound doable?

    #224 70 days ago

    Kind of does sound like it would work

    #225 70 days ago
    Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

    I haven't strained mine yet. I was thinking of pulling an old cotton t shirt around the opening then pouring it into a storage tub, then cleaning the gunk out of the tube and putting the evaporust back. Sound doable?

    See my post above for what I've found works well for cleaning and reuse of the evaporust.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cult-of-evaporust/page/5#post-5516827

    Regardless, your method should work fine for quick and dirty cleaning, or maybe try cheesecloth if you don't want to waste a t-shirt.

    #226 69 days ago
    Quoted from radial_head:

    Would be curious to see a photo of your tube.

    4" tube with these, just like Billc479 but the red plugs at both ends. I was afraid the bottom one might leak but so far, so good.

    red-oatey-sink-hole-covers-33403d-64_1000 (resized).jpg
    #227 68 days ago
    Quoted from jibmums:

    4" tube with these, just like Billc479 but the red plugs at both ends. I was afraid the bottom one might leak but so far, so good.
    [quoted image]

    Why don't you guys just glue a cap on the end? Never had any trouble with mine... just used it today on the clutch lever off of my '47 Willys CJ2a.

    #228 68 days ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    Why don't you guys just glue a cap on the end?

    Agreed.

    #229 68 days ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    Why don't you guys just glue a cap on the end? Never had any trouble with mine... just used it today on the clutch lever off of my '47 Willys CJ2a.

    I wanted to but couldn't find a cap that would fit. My contractor neighbor gave me a piece of 4" PVC tubing to use, apparently it had a thinner wall than the 1/2" thick kind you find at Home Depot or Lowes and none of their caps would fit. The plugs work just fine, and I can open both ends when the time comes to clean it out.

    #230 68 days ago

    Mine does have a cap glued on the bottom.

    2 weeks later
    #231 51 days ago

    Evaporust on sale

    Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon,Gray,ER012 amazon.com link »

    2 weeks later
    #232 36 days ago
    Quoted from Palmer:

    Evaporust on sale

    Good deal, they are $25 at my local car parts shop. Liquid gold!

    1 month later
    #233 3 days ago

    Is there anything you can do once the solution turns black, or is it time to get new stuff?

    #234 3 days ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    Is there anything you can do once the solution turns black, or is it time to get new stuff?

    Mine is black and still works fine. I strained gunk out by pouring it through a cotton t shirt, then put it back in the tube. It is dark but still eats rust.

    #235 3 days ago

    I think it still works but it leaves more of the black residue on the parts now. I guess maybe I should be more careful about how long I am leaving them in?

    #236 3 days ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    I think it still works but it leaves more of the black residue on the parts now. I guess maybe I should be more careful about how long I am leaving them in?

    Mine setup is 4 years old and black AF. 24-36 hrs is still optimal.

    I rinse with the hottest water I can as soon as I pull the parts.

    #237 3 days ago
    Quoted from solarvalue:

    I think it still works but it leaves more of the black residue on the parts now...

    Parts touching? Once I had 1 Leg that got a black outline mark form touching another, but it was the only one I've ever had. I could never get it off either, strange.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 89.99
    Lighting - Led
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 36.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 26.95
    From: $ 42.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    From: $ 33.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Rocket City Pinball
    $ 49.00
    Various Novelties
    Pinball Photos LLC
    $ 10.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 36.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    $ 139.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 86.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 599.99
    Cabinet - Toppers
    Stranger Things Topper Out of stock
    Great American Pinball
    $ 7,299.00
    Pinball Machine
    Arizona Pinball
    $ 80.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Back Alley Creations
    $ 22.00
    Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 180.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    PinWorlds
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 29.99
    $ 19.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 150.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Great American Pinball
    $ 35.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Back Alley Creations
    From: $ 99.99
    Cabinet - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 30.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    $ 9.00
    Electronics
    Yorktown Arcade Supply
    $ 69.99
    Lighting - Led
    PinballBulbs
    $ 14.95
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    ULEKstore
    $ 49.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Full Tilt Pinball LEDs
    $ 29.00
    $ 29.25
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 79.99
    Cabinet - Armor And Blades
    PinGraffix Pinside Shop
    $ 19.00
    Boards
    Tilted Pinball
    There are 237 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside