(Topic ID: 176889)

Cue-T Take 2, 10pt relay stuck.

By vips

7 years ago


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Cue-T wiring.pdf (PDF preview)
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#1 7 years ago

Hello again, i made a post long a go about my Cue-T by williams, i couldnt revive it so i make a new post. I have almost read every topic in the EM section to get it in working condition, so far i have fixed the step up / step down unit, cleaned all the score reels, fixed the advance unit, bypassed the coindoor with a start switch since the wire harness was all cut up, fixed the bumpers, cleaning in general and fixing some leafswitches. I belive everything (almost) works now except that the 10 score relay is stuck closed, what i have read and figured out is that a switch is closed all the time, i have checked all the 10 points switches and all are open, well atleast the switches is know for sure goes to the relay. When i coin up:

Score motor runs, resetting all the score reels to 0, even the 10 points one, then the stepper unit goes to 5 balls,
kicks out the ball and *bam* 10 score relay closes, and than ofc the score reel gets all wierd and the chime coil.

When i gameover the coil lets go, coin up and it closes again.

I desoldered the 10 relay and the game is fully playable, if i push the relay by hand the 10 point goes up, so there must be some switch that i missed, i got myseld a wiring diagram from some guy in australia who was kind enough to send me a PDF, im not so good at reading a pinball schematics so my hope is to post for help here.

What i have found is that the bumpers and the 4 "bumperslookalike" at the top gives 10 points none looks stuck, is the something at the score motor?

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#2 7 years ago

I still would look at anything that scores 10 pts. Look at the switches behind the slingshots targets pop bumpers etc. If you have just installed new rings by any chance odds are it made a switch to close/closed when it shouldn't be.

#3 7 years ago

p.s. Also make sure the EOS switch on 10's reel is not permanently closed.

#4 7 years ago

The Eos switch is working fine on 10s reel, the slingshots are open, if i close them with the finger the solonoid kicks in (2 switches per slingshot). i think i have to look at the soldering to see if there is somewhere where the legs are bent together or something. The game was a complete mess when i got it. Tomorrow ill try to load some photos after the cleaning, rubbers etc. etc.

#5 7 years ago

Hi vips +
from Your PDF/JPG the area of "wiring to 10-Point-Relay". One or more "faulty-closed switch", greetings Rolf

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#6 7 years ago

You'll need to look at the circuits that sends power to the 10 point relay. If you made sure all the switches on the playfield that score 10 points are adjusted properly, then check the following:

Score motor switch IND-A - switch with yellow wire and red/black wire
10 point score reel EOS switch - switch with red/black wire and blue/red wire
10 point relay switch - switch with blue/red and green/black wire

Make sure these switches are clean and adjusted properly...

#7 7 years ago

Thx for the help guys =) , i think the bumper no1 and 3 is working, when the A and D realy pulls i get 100 score from the bumpers so i dont think the problem is there. What fredsmythson said makes sense with the EOS switch, i thought it was working because it opens and closes mechanicly, but it might be burned so it doesnt make contact when its closed. One of the contacts on the 10s relay that activates the coil on the 10s drum where also closing but burnt so it didnt make contact. Im super exited to get home from work and grab the file (once again).

Bear with me, this is my first EM pinball, but not the last =)

#8 7 years ago

Hi vips +
The Switch on No-1-Bumper-RELAY most-likely is good - also the Sitch on No-3-Bumper-RELAY.
Playfield-Switches ? See the JPG - a blade can be bent at "my red circle" --- BUT as well might be bent at "my orange circle".
Slingshot-Kicker-Switches near the flipperbats ? What we see on the playfield are two Switches to ACTIVATE THE KICKER --- the "Switch for to make points" I show as "my blue line and my green line" - the plunger travelling down (when the kicker gets activated) moves away from the switch - the plunger does no longer keep the Sitch open - so it closes - so the Switch may be faulty.

The No-2-Bumper-RELAY-Switch ? As my "red circle and orange circle on the stand-up Switch" - in the Switch-Stack of a RELAY a blade can be bent --- Switch is faulty-CLOSE when RELAY is NOT pulling. Greetings Rolf

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#9 7 years ago

Thx Rolf, i didnt know that the plunger activated the score, i thought it was the switches who activated the kicker , when i got it the left kicker was stuck because someone had screwed the kicker bracket 3mm offset (oddly becuase its easier to use the original holes in the playfield rather than making 3 new ones). Thx again for all your time and effort to help me

#10 7 years ago

Rolf you made my day, it was the switch under the left kicker that was stuck on , now its all working, time to get started and changing alot of lampsockets and some cosmetic work.

Thank you all for the help.

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#11 7 years ago

Hi vips
glad I could help. You write about "changing lampsockets" - maybe they just need some cleaning ? Want to read this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-clean-old-4447-lamp-sockets ---
very often the sockets need just a bit of cleaning - see post-10.

Please do me a favor - on top of the topic (at / before post-1) - on the right hand side - use the button to mark "topic as solved", greetings Rolf

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