(Topic ID: 272030)

Cue Ball Wizard: Won't Start Up


By KJOliver

14 days ago



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  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by KJOliver
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#1 14 days ago

I have a CBW that at first would not load multi-ball (2 ball) correctly. It would hold first ball ok in habit trail, but would not load another ball to shooter lane. I ran through the self test and found the trough switch was out of adjustment. Fixed that, game ran ok a few games then straight downhill. Now I can't get game to boot up at all. Beeps on powerup, 1 credit showing (not sure why "free play" not displayed though) LEDs flashing on 3 boards, sound ok (female says "One more for double"). I can get into first step of check mode , but game won't initiate any of the self tests (no flipper or start button recognition) Started checking boards (power supply, battery voltage on A1 board, etc) that's when I noticed a fried transistor on controller board (A3). Transistor fried is for the kicker solenoid, which come to think of it, I never heard work while I had game.
Question: could that fried transistor be causing EVERYTHING now going on? Or is it likely that was fried before and now I have multiple issues to fix?
Should the controller board just be replaced entirely due to damage? I can't imagine I could cleanly solder in a new transistor at Q30.

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#2 13 days ago

If the ground upgrades haven’t been done, do them first. No reason to do any work on a system 3 until that is accomplished. Mine had the “buzz” type Mosfets, replace them all. Solder jobs can be functional and not lovely and still work with a bit of care. I had a board with a hole burnt through it I fixed, and it worked great.

#3 10 days ago

Agree with Yilb

1st did the ground upgrade as show here
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/

2nd check n°24 panel "Q" "T" "A" relays (need them to start) and the common wire number 288 link to them

3rd check any fuses under playfield

Also got a hole on A3 driver board and was repair with wires and works fine.
I've solved lost of problems when I did the ground upgrade. You could not test your pinball if this ground connector got bad connections.

(PS: Those diagrams comes from a Stargate so it could have some differences with your pinball)

Have fun

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#4 8 days ago

Thank You both Yilb and Benhurr for your input on this! I ended up not learning from my years as an auto technician and was in the middle of fixing multiple possibilities at the same time...ending up in success...but not 100% sure which step truly fixed my issue. Probably a combination of a couple things. I think the possible ground issues could have caused a voltage spike/jump somewhere and then ultimately led to a blown "controlled lamps and switches" fuse. My A3 board is still running fine with that burn through and I think I'll leave it alone for now . My original problem, however is still there but MUCH more intermittent.

On a two ball multi-ball the game kicked an extra ball out I'd say 8 of 10 times. So I'll take it for now. If anyone's seen this intermittent issue with MB on this machine please give me some ideas.

Again, thanks Yilb and Benhurr for your help!

(Attached photos of my ground mods for reference)

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#5 8 days ago

Test those 3 switches in test menu then look at mechanical parts in motion under SW34. Better test in game without the apron. Check if SW24 works every time.

Fuse F6 probably burned due to shunt between ground N°9 and N°588
Use Ohmmeter, also test voltage between 20volts diode bridge and test C2 capacitor uFarad (be care to not shunt poles or touch them )
On the Gottlieb electrical schematic you can read that some electronic compts do not works fine over 10 years so I've change all 3 Capa and 3 Diode bridge for few value...
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#6 8 days ago

May seem silly but do you have the correct amount of balls in the machine?

#7 6 days ago

Benhurr: Good info. I'll check those values out next.

Brtlkat: HaHa...Yeah, I DID think of that after seeing a forum discussion a while back with the very same question on CBW. I have 3 balls loaded.

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