(Topic ID: 121328)

Cue ball wizard boots , if you switch on/off 3 times?

By Dawson

9 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Rickwh
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

I'm thinking its a chip , not sure which one , display is weak , with slight "ghoasting" ... Gal chip..?

Seems like the little Dallas chip under the battery is ok...

5 volt seems great everywhere on the boards..

U-11?

It's always a slightly educated guess for me , problem with this game is , no one around here will work on it ..

Thanks for any CBW input
Tj

#2 9 years ago

Power the machine on. If it doesn't boot press the reset button on the CPU board. If it boots after that check the on-board battery voltage (probably low). If it still doesn't boot reseat/replace the cable between the driver board and CPU board.

If you're going to shotgun the board, do C20 and C21 before trying U11.

I don't remember your troubleshooting with the display itself. Have you tried a different one in CBW? The GAL either works or it doesn't.

viperrwk

#3 9 years ago

Well, I'm glad to hear that it's not the gal chip..

I wil try your steps mid day here . Thank! The Dmd might be burnt , it has a lot of dark spots where the Display dots are .. Can I use a williams display in the game for testimg ..,

Here is a pic of the "burnt looking" display

Thanks viper ...

image.jpgimage.jpg
#4 9 years ago

a display that is starting to outgas and not work in a B/W game, will work in a gottlieb, since gottlieb using a lot lower voltage to run the display. so if its' burnt out on a gottlieb it's really burnt out.

#5 9 years ago

I tried a working DMD out of a judge dreed and it never worked . I have a data east DMD , looks like it would plug in , I just don't want to blow another board ..

Reset didn't work ,

when turning on and off you have to do it fast. A quick on and off or it won't boot ,

Everything works great other than that ..

Thanks everyone

Tj

#6 9 years ago

just a note. Never unplug a dmd while the game is on for a gottlieb. You will blow the GAL chip instantly. They don't like that. You can unplug the ribbon on anything else without problems, just not gottlieb. only the ribbon tho.

#7 9 years ago

Thanks neo, that's one thing I'm well aware of.. I've gotten so I never unplug, work, change bulbs , adjust switches or anything like that with the power on ...

#8 9 years ago

You can try the DE DMD you have - shouldn't be a problem.

Try reseating the ribbon cable. You may also want to just get a couple of new ones. Same cable from the CPU to the DMD/driver board - they are interchangable.

The other thing you can try is disconnect EVERYTHING from the DMD controller and disconnect the ribbons to the CPU board and then power it on and see if the LED starts blinking on power up. If it does then something connected to the CPU board is keeping it from booting. If it doesn't and you have to try your power trick, then the problem is on the CPU board. You may want to try a new ROM to see if perhaps it is suffering from bit rot. An EPROM I tested recently was giving me different results every time I went to verify it. On rare occasion it would yield the correct checksum but in no way was it consistent. It needed to be erased and reburned.

Unfortunately, by this point, there's not much else you can do unless you start shotgunning. And this is not a board to shotgun. Sys3 has some very fine traces and it is super easy to damage the board if you're not careful.

If you do decide to go this route, start with the caps as I mentioned earlier. If that doesn't work, then a new U11 would be next. And if that isn't it then a new RAM. But you see where this is going...

viperrwk

#9 9 years ago

Ha , yeah , I see exactly where this is going.... Might just have to send the board in... I've fixed a few things by changing chips and what not , shit the Dmd driver I fixed actually worked , I was just too scared to plug it in, without getting proper voltages.

Thanks for your advice viperrwk, you have been quite helpful ....

Interesting that it's very specific the way you can get his game to boot.
You almost have to wait for a split second as the caps are powering down , to turn back on

A 1/2 second later it won't boot

Good guys that work on gottlieb? Maybe k's arcade?

#10 9 years ago

K's or Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron.

Consider this: by the time you pay shipping and repair to Clive you'll be out $110. A new CPU board from Steve Young shipped to you is $130. And you should be able to sell your non-working board for at least $20.

viperrwk

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

a display that is starting to outgas and not work in a B/W game, will work in a gottlieb, since gottlieb using a lot lower voltage to run the display. so if its' burnt out on a gottlieb it's really burnt out.

backwards. An outgassing display needs more voltage to get it to light. A borderline but fully working display in a B/W game probably won't light in a gottlieb that has a lower voltage power supply.

My experience with booting issues on gottlieb system 3's has always been the U11 chip. It must be a 74hc123 chip and not an LS version. Something about the timing of the reset going out as the chip ages. Most of the time when this is bad the game won't boot and will be stuck in a reset loop (repeated chirping of the sound) If you roll up the voltage a touch using the trim pot on the 5V power supply and the game boots then it's definitely the U11 chip.

Now on system 3-11 Williams MPU boards there is a 22 uf cap in the reset section that when bad will cause this exact problem, it won't boot unless you do a quick double flip of the switch. I have never seen it happen exactly this way on a Gottlieb but I am guessing that the 1 uf caps at C20 and C21 that viperrwk mentions are the equivalent.

#12 9 years ago

yes, that's what I ment. I was thinking it in my head when typing and came out completely backwards to what I ment to say. My bad. More voltage means more ummph to kick it in high gear.

#13 9 years ago

C20 and C21 are more likely to go out with age than U11.

Additionally, Gottlieb changed the values on R5 and R6 which (if CBW has its original CPU board), was 330K to 680K in later CPUs which reduces the sensitivity in the watchdog circuit. If I was shotgunning the board I would change C20, C21, R5 and R6 before changing U11.

viperrwk

#14 9 years ago

I've been playing Cur ball wizard quite a bit , and I must say , I really like the game , shit , I'm been humming the theme song for 2 days at work..

You guys are wildly smart , and I appreciate that.. Thanks !!

Will will try the "shotgun approach ". I should buy a manual to get the values for these parts ...

Watchdog circut? Sounds pretty fricken cool .. What the hell does it do ?

Thanks tj

#15 9 years ago

You sure need that ramp shot
Hit that ramp
What kinda cowpie shot was that
By golly thats an extra ball.
You got the special!
Yeee. Haaaa. Whata shot.

I played the hell out of a cbw back in college in the mid 90s. I have those callouts and that theme buried deep in my head.

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